2002 Jeep Grand Cherokee, Limited--4.7 V8: when the car is turned off--there are sounds coming from the dash--passenger's side--like escaping air--like a whoopee cushion--maybe for one minute. Is this the AC system---or air bag or ???
View 4 RepliesIt seems like the rear camera has suddenly started to point down more that it used to. We have three Prius's and none of the older one are like this. The dealer tells me he hears this problem all day long and there is nothing he can do about it.
View 3 RepliesFor the past year I've had the front end squeaks and crunching from my 06 Sonata LX with 97k miles. It started with just going over bumps, then progressed to basically any movement of the body up and down. It's worse in the cold, but an issue all year.
I just did shocks and struts all around, with the mounts. Didn't affect the sounds at all. At 97k, the original shocks/struts were woefully dead. At least the car rides 10x better now.
Yesterday I changed out the sway bar end links with Moog K80949's. It does sound like some of the "crunching" is gone, and now we're back to just squeaking. I think even some of the constant squeaking over fairly normal roads is gone.
So, what's up next? The FSM suggest the lower control arm, which I'd prefer not to do. Sway bar bushings could be an option, but they looked kind of like a PITA to get to.
I have a 2003 civic (automatic) with 72000 miles on it. It recently began hesitating from a cold start. It will hesitate once or twice, I stop, and after that it is fine for the rest of the drive. Since it is sporadic, it's hard for the mechanics to see what is going on. I took it to one mechanic who cleaned the fuel injectors, cleaned the throttle plates, flushed the transmission fluid, and replaced the spark plugs. He also put a note on the bill that the transmission may need to be rebuilt soon, although he didn't mention that when he told us what he did. The car drove fine for about three weeks after that, and then it started hesitating daily.
I took it into another mechanic who was able to see the problem for himself when I left the car overnight. He scanned it for error codes, but didn't find anything. He said he checked all connections and wiring and cleaned the wiring but that was all he could do. He said he thought it was a bad O2 sensor, but because the check engine light isn't on, he can't do anything. Meanwhile, he said I should keep driving it in hopes that it will get worse so they can figure it out. I'm worried that I may be causing long term damage, and that I may get stuck in the middle of an intersection without power. Is there anything they didn't check that they should have? Should I take it to another mechanic?
Here is a weird issue on a 07 Nissan Altima. Just recently, the air conditioning started blowing weak when I hit highway speeds (around 60+). It still blows cold..., but is very faint no matter what speed the blower is on. I can still hear the blower cranking away, but very little air coming out of the vents. If i turn the a/c button off...it takes a little bit, like 20 seconds, but the air starts blowing through the vents again. Wait a bit and hit the a/c button and blammo - a/c. It lasts for about 10 minutes and happens all over again. Only at high speeds. at low speeds, everything works like a champ.
View 5 Replies2000 jeep cherokee brake lights will not work.changed the bulbs, brake switch, checked fuses, ripped the effin panels out and checked wires and grounds, ripped up rugs found the mouse nest-no mouse, no chews in wires. the parking lights work, hazard lights work? WHEN LIGHTS ARE ON, RT HAND BLINKER DOESN'T WORK...WHEN LIGHTS ARE OFF BOTH BLINKERS WORK..
View 1 RepliesI have a 2004 Nissan Frontier with V6 non-supercharged engine, 4x4, with manual transmission, 150k miles. For approximately the last 30k miles, I have had a persistent shuddering in the cab when I apply the brakes slowing from about 15 to 0 MPH. It is accompanied by a low humming noise that decreases in pitch as the truck slows down. It only happens when the brakes are warm; about 70+ degrees outside or after I've been slowing down a lot. It does not seem to correspond to engine temperature, only my perceived temperature of the brakes. There is no pedal feedback, and it does not shudder when I stop using only the parking brake. It does not seem to affect stopping distance.
I first tried to fix it by doing a very thorough front/rear brake job - new pads/shoes, new rotors/drums, and repacked front wheel bearings. That had no effect on the problem. I tried rotating the tires and that had no effect. I then did a complete front end job and replaced all the bushings and balljoints via brand new pre-assembled control arm assemblies. I also replaced the tie rod assemblies, sway bar bushings/end links, and had an alignment done. That had no effect.
Based on the repairs I've done, I would assume that it is having to do with the front brakes, but is not warped rotors or anything in the front suspension.
So I have an 06 mercury mountaineer it was making a rubbing noise from the rear left tire area so I replaced the bearing took the merc for a test drive and as soon as I applied pressure to the accelerator the TCS kicked off all power and it left like the brakes on the front left engaged (accompanied by some nasty grinding noises). I have taken it apart replaced the hub assembly and the cv axle, nothing looks to be out of place and everything is clean I cant think of anything else it could be..
View 5 Replies1991 Vanagon GL-Ok, first off my gas gauge was inoperable so we traced it down to the sending unit. Disconnected the battery, drained the tank, dropped the tank and replaced the sending unit and all the fuel lines, seals, etc. In the meantime we also replaced the starter while it was up. Gassed her up, tried to start it. Nothing. Lifted it up again, checked the starter unit to see if it was getting a current, no current. Went to the fuse box, tested the fuses, all is good. Went to the battery and tested it, it was producing a current. Thought we might have moved, hit, loosen something when putting the gas tank back in so we lowered the tank to see if there was anything loose, disconnected, etc. Nothing. Reinstalled the tank. Went to the engine compartment and tested the alternator, no juice. Damn. Traced the wiring from the battery to the engine and test the battery cable, no juice in the harness by the gas tank. Went to the front of the van, took out the drivers headlight and tested the lines there. There is a long green object like a capacitor or something with three wired running to it, tested it no juice flowing through it. Tested a connection before the long green object and there is juice there. Is it the long green thing? Do I need to call in the Witches of Warwick to de-demonize it?
View 6 RepliesMy Honda has a strange problem that is vexing my mechanic. While I am driving, the engine spits and sputters and sometimes dies. I try to restart and it starts right up but runs rough. Sometimes it takes a while to start back up. If I wait a few minutes, it will start again and drive fine for a while. Then it will do it again. After it is warm or when it is cold at the start, it won't do it.My mechanic cannot get it to do it long enough to diagnose. The computer is not throwing any codes. I believe it is electrical because when it does this, the speedometer goes crazy bouncing up and down. Electrical problem also may explain why the computer is not throwing any codes. I need to narrow it down because my mechanic is reluctant to start trying things as I don't have a lot of money to throw at this.
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