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Impala - Chevrolet - Ls :: Transmission Shifting Rough Between 1st - 2nd And 2nd - 3rd Gears
Every so often while driving in the city my car starts shifting rough between 1st-2en and 2en-3rd gears. If I stop; turn off the engine and then restart it stops. The car has 107,000 mi. and the fluid has always been changed as recomended. Do I have a shift selonoid going out somewhere?
View 2 RepliesSonata I45 (LF 2015+) :: Rattle In Dash / Appears To Lessen As Car Warms Up
I have a rattle in the dash of my 2015 Sonata Limited. Dealer had the car for three days and replaced a part in the steering column that was supposed to solve the problem unfortunately it did not. I am reluctant to bring the car back to have the dash torn apart again. Funny thing about the rattle it appears to lessen as the car warms up.
View 14 RepliesChevrolet - Leaks - S-10 :: 1997 - Purple Grease Spattered Around The Hubcap
I just got this truck and everything was fine, until i took it out on the highway. there is purple grease spattered around the hubcap. I didn't do this during the test drive. It's the driver's side front wheel. It's pouring rain and i don't have a garage, so little inspection has been done so far.
997 Chevy S10...
Malibu - Chevrolet :: 2009 - Doors Do Not Lock Or Unlock Manually When Use A Key
Sometimes the locks in the doors do not lock or unlock and I have to use a key or do it manually if its not the drivers door. Only in a certain range of temperatures does this problem occur. It happens when it is roughly between 65 and 85 degrees out.
It will not have this issue when it is cold nor will it happen when it is beastly hot, just when its a bit warm. I press the lock button on the fob and all but the drivers door or the door right behind it will lock. It is frustrating and I want to know if there is something I can do to prevent this from persisting and to know if the locks will eventually fail completely if it goes unchecked.
it has never been in an accident, but shes had her doors slammed a few times in the past by my passengers.
Oldsmobile - Oil - Transmissions - Eighty-eight :: 1996 - Significant Loss Of Fluid With No Leaks?
My mother owns a 1996 Olds Eighty-Eight that has developed a magical ability plus another problem that multiple mechanics have failed to solve. Magic: The car, a few miles after an oil change and verifying the correct amount of oil was put in at the change, magically generates more oil to the point the level on the stick doubles. Problem: At the same time, the car has significant loss of transmission fluid, but no leak large enough to account for the loss. I suspect the two are linked, and one mechanic even said that there was a valve or something that could go bad or get stuck and allow the transmission fluid to get pulled into the oil, but no one has been able to definitively reach an answer or fix the issue.
View 2 RepliesSubaru - Forester :: Rough Engine - Power Is Low / Surges And Misfires When Cold
We're talking about a 2002 Subaru Forester with only 80,000 miles on it.
This winter, the cold seems to have taken its toll. The fuel economy is bouncing around between 16 and 24 MPG and the car runs a bit roughly. Especially when it's colder (<30 F) there is often a lack of power/RPM when depressing the gas pedal. The problem is worst in city driving, but exists on the highway also. It doesn't go away during my 15-20 minute commute. For a period of a couple weeks, it was even easy to induce misfires (I think that's what they were; quiet pffft pffft pffft sounds during severe lack of power) by fully depressing the gas. But even if you half-depress and hold the pedal steady, the car will accelerate weakly and then sometimes surge forward. Other times it seems to be idling strong and running rich. Now that it's warmer (>40 F) the problem has lessened, but I've also started feeding it 93 octane gas and the car feels rougher than normal.
A year or two ago, I replaced the front oxygen sensor and spark plugs (prior to problem). This winter, I took it to a mechanic who couldn't explain the problem and replaced the spark plug wires.
Based on my reading, it seems like the only other most likely culprit is the manifold air pressure (MAP) sensor that's mounted on the intake manifold. I haven't worked up the effort (and can't find my multimeter) to do an electrical test of the MAP sensor's output itself. I'm also not keen on just buying a $270 part without sound evidence, nor paying for ill-informed guessing by lesser mechanics (than yourselves, of course!). I also have a sneaking suspicion that the automatic transmission could be slipping -- when I drive with 2 adults and two kids in the car up a hill, it seems more underpowered than days of old.
Chevrolet - 1500 :: Transmission Does Not Engage In Drive
Overhaul trans, new old pump, but doesn't engage in drive. Reverse and all three low work fine. Drive will only work when rpm's are applied. But without any power.
View 4 RepliesToyota - Corolla :: 1999 - Brake And Reverse Lights Not Working
Brake and Revers lights not working on 1999 Toyota Corolla? I have checked fuses and wire connections with no results. My brake and reverse lights just stopped working yesterday and I don't know what else to check.
View 1 RepliesCamry :: 1995 V6 - Rough Idle / Engine Lope When Started Cold
We have owned a 95 Camry V6 for 20 years and it has always been reliable. However, several days ago, the car started to have its first engine performance issue. When we start the engine cold, there was rough idle/engine lope. If it was warmed up for about 5-10 minutes, the car was fine for the entire day. but during this rough idle, the car jerked slightly as well if i press on the gas.
Since the symptom began, I took it to local shop A and they replaced all the spark plugs, pcv valve and air filter which did not solve the rough idle/looping problem. The rough idle continued, and few days later, I was unable to start the engine though it cranks. (at least that's what I think it does). Had it towed to shop B and they've replaced oil pump, which they thought to be the problem. I took it home, and the next morning I found myself unable to start the car.
Engines - Transmissions :: 2010 - Refuses To Shift Up / Down In Rain
So I have two issues one bad and one worse both while driving in the rain. Hyundai Elantra 2010 Automatic 4cyl, Bad scenario: the car refuses to shift (up/down) after something is getting wet, just this morning we had really nasty rain and this happened car feels like it's stuck in second gear. RPM was @ 3000 while going 45/50 MPH is this normal? But you can feel and hear the car is not shifting up or down while stopping at a light MPH 0 RPM 1000 when accelerating from the stop I have to press the pedal more the usual almost like no power and RPMs just go back up to 3000 and still can't feel the shifting from 1rst to 2nd almost like its just stuck in 2nd..
Worse scenario: Same instance driving in the rain - something gets wet? and my engine/trans ? all the sudden jerks/kicks with a thump/thud noise the jerk and noise might be at the same time the car is shifting between gears not sure. If I keep trying to drive it keeps kicking and jerking so I don't tempt it in case I make something worse off, one time this happened I had to keep going to get off the road safely and it did through the engine light on the rain stopped while I was pulled over so I sat for an hour let it dry out some and the car ran fine.. What could this be??? When the car is dry runs just fine, I even had the dealer do some trouble shooting 2 weeks ago cuz I had the worse happen and had to have it towed and he couldn't re-create the prob. nor find what it could be..