M friend with his 98 gmc. When stopping the breaks are normal until getting slow then the abs motor comes on and the break pedal sinks to the floor. The truck stops but the abs motor runs constant until you release the pedal. This is happening on dry roads. What is there to check before condemning the abs module?
View 4 RepliesI have some problems with my 2001 Volvo V70 about its light sensors and tailgate sensor.
Starting from this spring, every time when I turned the right-turn signal light on, the bulb fail message will pop up in the dashboard even though there is no bulb failing. Also, it starts to state that my tailgate is not closed while I drive it during the sunny day.. (That means, it will become normal during the raining day...) The problem that accompanies with the tailgate issue is the cargo light sensor malfunctioning. Sometimes it light up all the day while driving, sometimes will not turn-on at all; but sometimes work normal during the raining day.
What could be the core of these problems? I don't want to take it to the repair shop for a whole day, and still can not find out the issue..
My Tacoma makes very loud roaring and whistling noises mostly when I am idle and the brake is engaged while the clutch is depressed. Sometimes, she'll rear and balk continuously --- even more loudly --- depending on the outside temperature and her level of activity. I need to get her fixed, but live in the New York City area and am a broke graduate student terrified of getting ripped off. Do you think it's just belts? My transmission (sometimes I can feel the noise in my gear shifter)?
View 10 RepliesI have no brake lights on my 2000 Honda Civic EX. Its a two door five speed. I have checked the brake light switch and it has power in and out. Light bulbs are all good. All the grounds are good that I have been able to find. I have power to the PCM on the brake wire, but no power coming out. I spliced the wires thinking this would solve the problem and it didn't. I am at the end of my rope. No blown fuses and the tail light and cruise works fine.
View 4 RepliesI'm having two slightly strange issues with a 2007 Nissan Altima 2.5S...
First, after driving for about 30 minutes on warmer/hot days (above 85 degrees) the temperature gauge starts rising and then the A/C starts blowing out hot air for a while. After a minute or two the temp gauge goes back down and the A/C goes cool again. The only reason I bring it up is this something new that has never happened before, even in the hottest summers and it only happens when it over 85/87 degrees.
Second issue is a bit stranger... After driving for 20-30 minutes the car will start "jumping". It feels like the engine loses a cylinder and then it kicks back on. It almost feels like the car is stuttering, if that makes any sense. This happens intermittently and only after driving for a slightly extended period of time. It also seems to be independent of the speed at which I am traveling. I took it to the Nissan dealer and they said they couldn't reproduce the problem and couldn't really look into anything because the Check Engine light was not on, so they had no code to go by, or something to that effect.
Ok, so the other day we went to a friends home and we parked our car on the driveway which was about a 45 degree angle. We stayed for about an hour and when we left my wheels started making a hissing sound or a scratching sound. When I use the breaks the sound goes away but it continues all the time when I drive. Even at high rates of speed. It never did this before. Is it something with using the e-break on an angle or something. I do nto know what it could be.
View 5 RepliesI've been trying to get her up and running for awhile now in order to sell her. I bought the car from a neighbor who never drove it (only 50k miles on it) and my dad had a great idea to get some new parts for it...I just wanted the car as it was... So we replaced the original carb for a newer carb and my father did all he wanted to do to it (I do know he took off the distributor, did some thing with the clutch, and replaced the fuel line to the distributor).
Well, when all was said and done (after a year and a half), the car is back up and running BUT when it sits idle it stalls. It will only stay running when you keep on the accelerator to rev the engine. As soon as you let up, the RPMs drop and she stalls. He's not sure why it's doing it, and I'm even less sure.
What are some reasons/causes/possible fixes for this?
The parking brake on my 99 honda civic won't fully disengage. If you use it when you go to put the lever down it pops back up slightly. Just barely one click and sometimes not even that. I just replaced the rear brake drums, shoes, wheel cylinders, and it was badly needed. I thought that this would solve my parking brake problem as well, but after I got everything back together and the car on the road the problem persisted.
I saw in the Hayne's manual for the car the parking brake can be adjusted from underneath the armrest. So would an adjustment fix my problem? If loosened would the brake stay down when not in use and still work when I need it? I also saw as part of the procedure the manual has you put the rear end on jack stands. If you are just tightening or loosening a cable why would the back wheels need to be off the ground? Is this absolutely necessary?
There is a noise I'm trying to locate and diagnose, comes from under this 2004 Accord DX, 5 spd. i can't locate 'where' precisely. it occurs intermittently, seems correlated with suspension parts' responding to load and forces (for instance, turning into a parking lot, where there's a slight dip at the paved curb skirt entering the lot, or when there's a modest bounce as car travels along the highway--when the stable momentum of travel is interrupted, making for a "bounce" or some force transferred into suspension, e.g.). ---The sound is low in register, not loud, and best i can do is 'imagine' what assembly (assemblage, or rigging, or set-up, or contraption) could produce such a sound.
The sound--to my experience and auditory senses is like, of a torsion bar, maybe a 3/4-inch steel rod, as might be fitted transverse somewhere at rear axle area, that would serve to stabilize the sway of the vehicle, under turning conditions; (I'm only guessing here, cause my pod-nur says, or 'hears', the sound's coming from front suspension area, like when load is taken at front strut, going over the slight dip when turning from road to parking lot). so what i hear, I imagine to be a point on the rod coming sudden contact with another metal part enough that the strike produces a tuned "spring" sound, the kind of sound i imagine a spring-tensioned rod would make, or like a staccato bass note, as piano bass string could make.
M bad on the metaphor here--yet, the approximate pitch of this pernicious occasional noise is near the A or the B, in the octave below middle C--i just now tested those notes, trying to be sure I'm 'in the ball park' in reporting and elaborating symptoms, all of which have to do with 'sounds' thus far. There doesn't seem to be any other evidence of frailty, or deterioration of handling, or efficiency of the vehicle. But my concern is that maybe some rubber grommet, or shock-absorbing hard rubber part, is allowing a loss of tolerances that will develop into some dangerous driving performance--a line of concern that one would take if one heard the clicking of a CV joint, tho my case had nothing to do with that realm i believe.
I drive an 03 Civic Hybrid. Twice, a week apart, while driving about 50, the speedometer goes to zero, then the power steering goes out and I lose power and momentum. The dash indicator lights go on like a christmas tree, engine still running, but car sluggish. I shut it off, and then get no power at all, not even hazard lights, and car won't start. With jumper cables, it starts right up and runs like nothing happened. IMA and check engine lights are both on, and have been since I bought it three years ago. In those years, my gas mileage has been consistent (42mpg) and no other funny business. Dealer won't work on it except to replace IMA and O2 sensors, which it has always coded for, and would cost the value of the car. What to do?
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