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Volkswagen - Eurovan :: 2011 - Downshifting Into 1st Gear On Steep Grades
I have a 2003 VW Eurovan that had it's transmission rebuilt in 2011. In 2012, we were going up a steep mountain road approx. 25 mph and the van downshifted into first gear. We tried everything from speeding up to pulling over and letting it cool down to turning the engine off and on. It would only upshift into the correct gear when we reached the crest of the hill and started going downhill. As I live in San Diego, there are no hills high enough to reproduce this with city driving and so it never happened again until we went back to the same place this year and at almost the exact same spot on the road. We took a trip later in the year to Oregon where we encountered many uphill grades and each time we hit a steep part and going around 20-30 mph, the van would downshift again either into first or second gear, and each time upshifting when we started going downhill.
At the end of this last trip, a new whining noise appeared and is present everyday we drive and gets louder and higher pitched the faster we go. We have taken the van numerous times to the dealership who says there are no engine codes to suggest a problem and their last assessment was the downshifting may be an overheating problem and the whining noise was definitely from the transmission indicating a bearing problem and they suggested getting the transmission rebuilt again. The transmission shop states that the transmission is fine by the fact that the fluid is in good shape, the transmission is basically "dumb" and only does what the computer tells it to and therefore it is a computer problem and the whining noise, although new, is just a normal noise that all transmissions make. Each place points me in the direction of the other but neither has solved my problem.
Subaru :: 2006 - Fixing CEL Code P0304?
2006 Subaru Forester X 2.5L AT non-turbo
I changed the oil and oil filter; replaced the air filter (Fram), and replaced the alternator and a/c belts. I also got a full tank of gas at Sam's Club, I was nearly empty. I've gotten gas plenty of times there, before.
Next day, the CEL comes on. It's a P0304 code. (Cruise control light is flashing, too.) Engine stumbles and runs rough when cold; idles fine when warm, runs OK, but not the same, when warm. CEL is steady, which is "not bad" but I can make it flash if I hit the accelerator while the engine is cold. Resetting the computer by disconnecting the hot battery terminal didn't work; CEL came on again two days later and symptoms remained.
I buy some MAF cleaner (CRC) and use it; MAF was pretty dirty on the upstream side, actually.
I'm going to change the plugs and wires (they need it, anyway) and I've ordered a new ignition coil, which I'll also switch out.
I've also ordered the gasket for the throttle body, which I'll take apart and clean once that comes in. Last step is to order replacement O2 sensors.
I'm 99% certain there's nothing wrong with the engine, in terms of rings, valves, pistons, etc. I think I'm covering all the bases in addressing this myself. I'm on a limited budget so I'm doing all the labor myself and ordering non-OEM parts on-line, after researching to make sure the parts have a good reputations, fit, etc. (Yes, that's all a big FU to Subaru service for being over-priced but besides being relatively poor I also enjoy doing this stuff.)
Subaru - Legacy :: 1999 - Clutch Seems To Be Slipping, Making Some Noise In 3rd And 5th
The car has about 142,000 miles. Is the clutch on this car adjustable? My repair files indicate it was "adjusted" a couple times, $40 each time. Now I think I might need a new one: it seems to be slipping, making some noise in 3rd, and in 5th.
View 2 RepliesKia - Spectra5 :: 2005 - No Clicks / Stutters Or Attempt To Start
A 2005 Kia Spectra 5 with 252,000 miles will occasionally not start. In the AUX position I get lights, dash, radio. Turn to START, and there is dead silence. No clicks, stutters, or attempt to start. New starter last year. Would like to get one more year from car before replacing. My car guys cannot get it to repeat this at the shop. After attempting up to 15 times, the car fires up just like nothing happened. Maybe unrelated..the door locks will randomly lock themselves when you are walking away from the car.
View 7 RepliesDurango :: 2001 - Brake Pedal Is Really Soft Goes Pretty Far Down
I have a 2001 Dodge Durang. 105k miles.
Brake pedal is real soft goes pretty far down (close to floor) before brakes kick in.
Check front disc pads and rear shoe pads, both look good. Fluid level is good. Bleed brake lines.
Pump brakes up when car is off, pedal is real firm till I turn car on an push on brake pedal right to the floor.
Infiniti - Qx56 :: Hard To Accelerate And Car Seems To Stall After About 5 Minutes Of Driving
All of the lights that show up when starting the car are coming on when I am driving. After about 5 minutes of driving, it is hard to accelerate and the car seems to stall (like I am trying to change gears - it is automatic). The first time it happened, I took the car to a repair shop and they told me I had a leaking hose and needed a new alternator. I had them change the hose and took the car to my usual mechanic. After two days of driving my car, he could not reproduce the problem and said he didn't think the alternator needed to be changed. I started driving the car today and it happened again. When I got home and turned the car off, it would not restart.
View 6 RepliesHonda - Accord :: 2002 LE With Automatic Transmission Shakes When It Idles
We took our car in for a regular oil change and to get the 60K belt work done. While in the car they discovered that the transmission was slipping and that we were missing one of the motor mounts. They did the belt work and the oil change and then put some fluid in our car hoping that would buy us some time with our transmission. To save us time and money they said we could wait a little while on the motor mount. When I drove it home the whole car shifted and shook whenever we would come to a stop and then it would shake while idling. I called our mechanic back and they said to bring it in and that fixing the rear motor mount should take care of the problem. While back at the mechanic for the motor mount they discovered that the transmission additive had not worked and we needed a new one.
We bought a rebuilt one and now we are still left with a car that shakes when we are idling. We have had the car in two or three times after the transmission was put in for them to try and fix the issue. They have done everything short of removing the engine without any luck. Just to be sure they covered every possible angle, they just gave us new spark plugs, ignition wires, distributor rotor, distributor cap and PCV valve, but it didn't seem to do anything. The car shakes the most while idling in Drive, somewhat less in Park, somewhat less than that in Neutral and not at all in Reverse. The shaking gets even stronger if the A/C or defroster is turned on. It seems to be even worse when stopped on a downward slope. It has been several months of this and the shaking is incredibly annoying. Is there anything else our mechanic could look into?
Gmc - Sierra :: 1991 - Only Runs When Steering Wheel Is Turned To Left / Right
I just bought this nicely used 1991 GMC Sierra 1500 series pickup truck for $650. It started up and ran fine when I gave the seller the money - the few leaks in the break lines.
Easy fix right!
So my son (19 that knows it all) and I went and changed all the brake lines (made everything one size 3/8 line.) Filled it up with break fluid and started the truck. I had my so pumping the breaks and holding them (his first time) I bled the far rear (passenger side) then I had him turn the steering wheel to the right so I could bleed the front driver side.
He turned, and turned and turned until the engine died.
Now the truck only runs when the steering wheel is turned all the way to the right or all the way to the left.
Going to pull the codes to see what the heck is going on....
Nissan - Sentra :: 2003 - Valves Bent Suddenly - Timing Still Good
Totally stumped. Replaced the head gasket in Nissan 03 Sentra 3 months ago and car has been running great since with good power. Car suddenly completely dies after coming to a stop without any warning or any loud noises.
No compression in all cylinders. Seemed to be lots of oil in all four cylinders according to the bottom of the spark plugs. Pulled timing cover, timing marks still line up perfectly. Leak down test suggests valve problem.
Pulled the head and see all the exhaust valves are bent and the intakes are bent on pistons #1 and #3. (which is also odd as pistons #1 and #4 run in the same positioning) Question is how can all the exhaust valves suddenly get bent simultaneously with the timing chain still registering perfectly on the marks it's supposed to?
Things I've checked: I checked to see if the camshafts have sheared through the key, but they seem fine. No deep grooves found to indicate they slipped or anything.
Mazda :: 2004 - Engine Code Reading P2402 - Evaporative System Leak High Discharge
I have had issues for over a week now first problem check engine light not sure of the code but the mechanic said it was the spark plugs and vaccum leak hose (which I knew about the hose). $205.00 later replaced all 6 plugs and hose. Now today on way to work I'm getting that hesitation when in lower gear such as stopping and then accelerating it jerks some it was doing this alot before replacing the plugs.
We did a diagnostic code reader and it said the code P2402 I did read it could be my gas cap which I don't have a dealer gas cap on there now I did about 1 yr 1/2 ago but got a lock key gas cap instead. I have been doing some reading I would need to replace leak detection pump which apparently costly in repair.
BTW car has 119,000 miles I commute far from work 5 days a week. My car is very important part of my life! I did also read someone stated there was a recall on Mazda 6 wondering do I need to call the dealership to see if this is actual recall and I can cross my fingers get this fixed on them.