I have a 2005 Honda CRV. I bought the car in February and soon after, the fuse for the power accessory blew. Since then, the same fuse blows every month or so. I do regularly use the power accessory for my cell phone charger and GPS. I have read online that many people have issues with their Verizon phone charges with this model vehicle, but I don’t have a Verizon phone.
Last week I had my car inspected and the mechanic told me that during a test the battery wasn’t “registering” correctly. They suspected that I had recently replaced the battery, but I told them I didn’t. A few days later the car was off, but I was using my radio. Within 30 minutes the battery died and I needed a jump start. Today I had a hard time starting the car, and then the fuse for the power accessory blew. I took the car to the shop and was told my battery was almost dead. I had it replaced.
I told the mechanic about the fuse issue and he suggested that I change the power socket itself. Another person thought I might have a short in the wiring somewhere, or maybe the car wasn’t grounded correctly. What I should do? I’m worried that the issue might kill another battery.
I took of the handle panel on the exterior of the car to adjust the rod so the door would open easier. NOW THE DOOR WONT OPEN AT ALL!
Its a 1995 Pontiac Grand Prix SE.
I've tried removing the door panel from the inside, but it seems useless because the retarded vertical handles cant even be accessed from the door panel.
I'm having an issue w/ a 2002 Dodge Intrepid. Randomly, while driving along, the RPMs revv, out of control...wind-out...for no apparent reason. The only fix, is to pull over, put vehicle in park, turn off engine, then restart engine, and put into gear and drive...thing is, this happens, often....a LOT..and is very much a nuisance...It seems there are no common triggers for this issue, except its driving me crazy..
View 10 RepliesI've got a 2003 Xterra, RWD, manual transmission, with around 110k. It's been giving me a little trouble shifting into gears 1-3 when the weather's below 30F. It started doing this when I got the transmission fluid changed last, about 2 years ago. I took it back to the mechanic who fixed it immediately, and he changed the fluid a second time for free, but when the problem persisted, he said he had no idea. Needless to say, I haven't gone back to him. Since then, I've tried to ignore it (not too hard in sunny NC), but it's getting worse and I'm about to move to Chicago, so I think I should fix it before I move to the land of harsh winters. My first guess would be the tranny fluid weight might be a little low and I should try a heavier weight.
View 13 RepliesI have a 2000 Honda Accord Ex that began to run very rough when cold. After warming up it seemed fine. Now the car runs rough whether hot or cold. The car only has 23,000 miles on it. The cap, rotor, and wires all appear to be good.
View 5 RepliesThe parking brake is both set and released with the parking brake foot pedal. I can't get it to release. If there is a release button or another way to release the parking brake??
View 6 RepliesYesterday I took my 2006 Toyota Corolla for an oil change at this small shop. As I drove away I heard a different slight sound coming from the engine, but I thought it could not be possible, since I had just left the mechanic and I had no previous issues with my car. I stopped at a store for about 15 minutes, then I drove a couple more miles when, suddenly, all of the engine lights turned on, the car felt weak and died. I checked the oil and it was totally dry, not even a drop to wet the napkin I used. I called the mechanic, he came over and added oil and an oil filter.
He claimed that the filter burst, is that even possible? Since I hear a strange sound the moment I left his shop, I tend to believe that he failed to put it in. What do you think?The main problem now is that my car engine is making this kind of click clack sound. I called the owner of the shop, who is the brother of the mechanic that worked on my car and I told him that I am taking my car to be diagnosed at Toyota today. If there is damage to the engine, which it sounds like, how can I get these guys to pay for it?Is it safe to drive my car like this?I am very dismayed at the whole situation and really stressed. I need this car to last me another good 5 to 6 years. I am the original owner. How to handle this case and the possible mechanical issues at hand now and down the road.
I have a 91 Nissan sentra. The seat belt warning light and buzzer like to go off for no reason. Sometimes this lasts my entire trip, 30 minutes of constant buzzing. I have narrowed it down to the front passenger automatic latch.( it slides across the top of the roof and latches in the back.) I have tried every thing I have heard to try from unplugging the wires under the seat to spraying wd-40 into the latch. Nothing has worked. I am just short of ripping out the dash board to cut the wires to the buzzer.
View 2 RepliesI drive an 05 Chevy Classic (that's an '04 Malibu made in '05), and it's never given me problems (though I've only had it about 2 years). This morning, I can't get it going. The engine turns over when I turn the key (though some of the time it takes several moments), but then as soon as I let go of the key, the engine dies. I tried giving it gas, but this doesn't seem to make a difference. After a couple of tries I noticed that the dashboard lights weren't coming on. They usually all light up while the starter runs, and I can at least get them to light most of the time when the key is turned to "on". None of this works. The power windows will open and close when I have the key turned to on, so the electrical system works somewhat.
View 8 Replies'98 Subaru Legacy L, Automatic Tran., 2.2 L, ~140,000 mi. (a youngster)
My issue is with intermittent/delayed starting. What happens is that when I turn the key, the starter solenoid will click once. Eventually after several tries of turning the switch, it starts, usually with some hesitance. When I try to start, I don't hear anything laboring like the starter Bendix grinding against the flywheel, just click and nothing. I did have the CEL come on once for like 40 minutes and then go out. Once started, however, the car tends to run well and once warm starting is still hesitant, but is quicker. Did conk out on me once at an intersection, was able to restart. Luckily I can walk to school, so I have been keeping it off the road.
As far as troubleshooting goes, the car has the same difficulty starting in neutral as well as park. Within the past year I have replaced the alternator (died), timing belt (routine maint.) as well as the battery (bad). I have also reseated all the ground wires and coated them with dielectric grease. A few months ago, I took the starter out and had it bench tested as good at a "popular auto parts store" in my region - it tested good (starter readily turned over and the Bendix deployed and retracted). Funny thing, when I pulled the starter and replaced it after being checked, the car started flawlessly for a month or so, so I chocked it up to a bad connection. Guess not.