my car won't start. It would try to turn over occasionally, The battery checks out. i tried to jump start it bypassing the battery with no results. multimeter reads current though cable going from battery to alternator. what is wrong with my car??
View 2 RepliesCould the constant wobble be caused from a bad wheel bearing? The wobbling and vibration gets really bad and it try's to setup an insistent shaking & vibrating at 35mph and I have to slow down to around 18 - 20mph to make it calm down. It sounds and feels like it wants to turn into the 'death wobble thing'. It is coming from the drivers side and after removing the drivers side front wheel, I've noticed the wheel bearing grease has all squished out all around the bearing on the inside of the bearing where the axle enters the bearing right after the ribbed boot. See the attached video. Does this grease coming out all over indicate that the wheel bearing is completely blown out thereby causing this extreme wobble and vibration?
Or could it be a from a combination of a worn tire on that side (which it has) and worn tie rods, ball joints, etc? ...after all the car is 19 years old.
I also have a problem with the heater blower - it does not work at any speed, doesn't even turn on. I can feel heat coming up into the car defrost and vents, but without the assistance of the blower. I can hear the relay click when I turn the heat on and off, and I already put in a new blower motor resistor. Could it be the fan switch itself? Or could the blower motor be blown? The fuses have been checked and are all good.
Every time the dew point is up (that happens nearly daily here in WA) the brakes squeal the first time I step on them. After the 2nd stop the squealing stops. Service center has said that it's the brakes themselves; that they are steel and so develop rust and that causes the squealing. Can I replace these brakes with something that doesn't squeal?
View 1 RepliesFor the first ten minutes after my car is started (until it warms up), the oil gauge drops to 0 while accelerating. When I take my foot off the gas, it goes back up. After the car is warm, the gauge works fine and unless the car cools completely down, it gives me no more trouble until the next morning. We have tried:
1. Changing the sending unit (twice);
2. Changing the oil;
3. Working on the electrical contacts;
4. Cleaning all of the parts around it.
New 2015 Mercedes E350 wagon ..... The day after I took delivery, I tried to open the new wagon's doors (it has a keyless feature) and nothing happened. I tried again and still nothing happened. I then took the smartkey out of my pocket and tried to click open the locks and nothing happened. I then took the ancillary key out of the smartkey and unlocked the car manually. This set off the alarm which would only stop when I closed the door and relocked the car.
Also, the car would not start. It was like I had broken in to the car. A few minutes later, while waiting for roadside assistance to speak with me, I tried the door handle again and discovered that the doors would now open keylessly. I have driven the car several times since the incident (which occurred yesterday) and it has not repeated the problem. What caused the problem?Is this a one time glitch or am I in danger of being stranded somewhere?
About a month ago, I noticed my 2007 Mazda3 making a rattling noise whenever the front passenger window is anywhere from cracked to almost all the way down. When the window is up or all the way down, there is no noise. When the door is in it's "sound-prone" state, I can replicate the sound either by going over a bump or just pulling and pushing on the door interior door handle. I've looked this up online and it seems to be pointing toward me needing a new window regulator. I haven't noticed any function loss, just the rattling sound that makes it sound like the car's falling apart. Does this seem like the right thing to try? What would cause the regulator to malfunction after only four years? Should I buy new or look for it at the local salvage yards? If it matters, my Mazda3 has electric windows.
View 4 Replies2000 Lexus RX300 - door locks/acutators... the locks open and close perfectly with the master driver actuator lock unlock button or with the the remote IF the temp is 70 degrees or below. If the temp is above 70 degrees the the actuators for all four doors will NOT all lock..1-4 do sometimes....they vary from door to door, day to day , including the driver driver door. Actators are expensive. Because they do work when cooler it tells me they do work. Why not when warm? what do I need to do? This is my mystery
View 3 RepliesI went to drive my 1970 Nova today and after driving it for about 15 seconds it seemed to stick in second gear. I cannot get it to go into neutral to be able to put it into any other gear including reverse. The shifter is on the floor. I have no clue what is going on- If it's something with the linkage between the shifter and the transmission or something with the clutch. It has never acted this way before and gave no indication that a problem was on the horizon.
View 13 RepliesI commute 35mi everyday. It's some stop and go, but at times it's a winding raceway up the valley. Yesterday about 45mins/25 miles into the drive I notice a squeak that's in rhythm with the speed of my car. Braking would dampen the noise, but it would return. I drove it over to the dealership where I work. They say they're booked, but they might have time to look at it in the afternoon between some other appointments. They call me about 2:30pm and say they drove the car around at 30mph, 40mph, and 50mph. No squeak. They say they'll take off the tires to look around. They call me again in 30minutes to say the car is ready, they didn't find anything. My drive home was quiet. Btw it was damp, but not raining yesterday morning. The afternoon was in the 80s and sunny.
This morning it was very damp and misting on the way to work. As I slowed for a toll booth the squeal reappeared and lasted for a few minutes as I got back up to speed. Then it disappeared. I had an idea it was a bad wheel bearing. I remembered reading that driving the car in circles clockwise and counter clockwise could identify a bad wheel bearing. I found an empty lot near the dealership and proceeded to drive in circles 25mph, but fairly tight. Not a peep out of the wheels except for the occasional squeal of the tires. Disappointed with my test, I drove right past the dealer quiet as a mouse.
Finally as I pulled into my work parking lot the squeal reappeared. I found an empty section of the lot and retested my circle hypothesis. Going in circles actually quieted the squeal in both directions. As the car returned to a straight course the squeal reappeared.
2009 Hyundai Santa Fe AWD....
I have a 2001 BMW 330i with 218,000 miles on it. When I am driving it and am slowing down and take it out of gear sometimes the car dips down to 400 or 500 rpm and the car shudders ,not all the time, but often and then bounces back up to 700 or so where the idle should be. I've had the throttle sensor and throttle body replaced. I also had the CATs replaced recently due to the sensor saying they were basically plugged, which I thought might be the problem with the throttle, but didn't cure it.
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