95 Buick Riviera Supercharger .... when turn blinker on, car dies....or won't start at all. Have to try several times and wait for indicator lights on dash to come on and for the door/key alarm to sound before can turn over car. Sometimes have to turn steering wheel til wheels are straight. Son started hitting/shaking steering to get it to start. Ignition Control Module?
View 2 RepliesI have a 2011 Subaru Impreza 2.5i hatchback with a automatic transmission. When I go between 55 and 65 I hear a buzz saw noise coming from the rear of the car. The noise only happens at those speeds,on hills, and flat ground, and in curves, and on straight always, but I never hear it at any other time. What it might be?
View 8 RepliesMy 1993 Celica, 1.6, 5-speed manual left drive shaft failed and I am trying to replace it myself. I have the new part in hand, but for some reason, the inner splined shaft does not want to go all the way into the transaxle. I have tapped the rotor end of the shaft with a mallet and tried to force it in, but everything Ive tried wont work.
My car is down for the count until I can get this drive shaft back in.
My Subaru dealer just told me that my 2004 outback with 88k miles has developed a head gasket leak. I haven't noticed any symptoms, and the leak started sometime between now and my last major service 10k miles ago. How serious is this? They want to charge me for it? If so, when? Is disaster imminent?
View 7 RepliesI have a 2002 Chevy Impala driving it in the city of Chicago. It's recently had the oil changed, and the transmission fluid flushed and filter replaced. This car was mine before I went off to school, and I meticulously maintained it for three years, and then my step sister inherited it. She drove it for two years, and then it sat in the driveway for a year and a half. It's got about 175,000 miles on it.
Problem: Every time I start to accelerate past 25mph and get around 2000rpms, the car starts to give out, sputter and jerk. It starts to drop off right when it should be shifting to second gear. When on the highway, even if I floor the gas peddle, it won't accelerate normally, but instead just crawls slowly to higher speeds.
It will eventually reach the higher speeds, but it takes about 5-10 minutes for it climb up from 25mph. I don't know enough about this level of car trouble to make a diagnosis myself, and would like an estimate of the cost for repairs. Also the car is getting around 19mpg on the highway, which I need to improve if I'm going to survive the $4.50/gal of Chicago gas. I'm hoping that fixing this problem will take care of that as well.
I've had my 2002 Suzuki XL7 for 7 years and about 3 months ago, I noticed that as I go past 55 mph, my car creates this vibration that almost makes me think that it is trying hard to run.
Took it to the mechanic and they diagnosed after test driving and lifting it up that the wheels needed replacement. As it turns out when the car was running while lifted, the rear driver's wheel wobbled. The tires were fairly new, about 3 years old. They suspected some cord separation inside. I went and had all four wheels replaced but the vibration was still there. I took it back and they think rear differential is the problem, either the bearings need to be replaced or the whole differential axle.
The mechanic drained the differential fluid and showed me how it was almost metallic in color. The cost of replacing the bearings is $1100; to replace the whole differential with a used 88K miles, no warranty is $1400 and $1700 with warranty. What do you think is another possible diagnosis for it. I just did not want this to be another wheel incident where it didn't solve the problem. I heard that since it's a 4WD that it may be the drive train also.
I have a 2004 Honda Element and when the AC compressor cycles on it makes a high pitched noise similar to a drive belt slipping. The AC is still cold and the noise is not overwhelming (yet). I know this vehicle has a serpentine belt and that doesn't appear to be making any noise. The only noise is when the compressor is running.
Is there a belt that drives the compressor (other than the serpentine)? And, is this something that I should get fixed ASAP or can it wait until my next oil change? Meaning, if I wait until the oil change (under 1,800 miles) will hurt anything?
2006 ford escape cranks wont start, I have spark and fuel....
View 1 RepliesI have a 2013 Outback that has since new chugged and has had a feeling of not going smoothly through the gears up to around 30 mph (mainly around 20-25 mph). Since it occurs intermittently the first two times into the dealer to fix it they found nothing wrong but on the third time back in they found that Subaru sent it out from the factory with 1/2 quart too much tranny fluid. Dealer drained to the proper level but I am still noticing the same symptoms only not as bad as before. Took it back for fourth time and after they drove it for a total of 10 miles and hooked it up to the computer they said they could find nothing wrong. My question is driving it 10,000 miles with 1/2 qt too much tranny fluid going to have caused damage or possible future damage to seals, etc. When I asked the Service Manager that he responded that I had plenty of warranty left.
View 2 RepliesHave a 2002 Yukon 5.3 ltr engine (155K miles) that likes to cut off at highway speeds. Usually happens after 4 or 5 hours of running at 70 to 80 mph. Strangely if I set the cruise control and do the same speeds, nothing... When it happens I end up coasting to the side at the roadway and sitting there for 15 or 20 minutes and it'll start right up and usually go the rest of the way. I've talked to a couple repair shops and they have checked service bulletins and have never been able to find anything. Will be driving to Connecticut for the 4th and not looking forward to being on 95 with the possibility of this happening again.
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