I have had a problem compounding for about 6 months. The car will not even try to turn over. One day she works perfect, the next day the starter won't even try to turn over. Recently it has been getting worse, I continued to roll start when it wouldn't start and kept driving... but now it will not even try to start at all.
I thought perhaps it was the starter solenoid failing, but when I took it to advance auto parts they tested it and it was functioning just as it should. I then figured it could be the relay, but I can hear it clicking on. What else could it be? I know that the spark plug wires and distributor are all good because I have personally replaced them in the last 6 months. I found some things on the internet referring to a clutch pedal ignition lock switch. Any good way to test it?
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This would appear to be the switch that I have heard of. Can it cause a complete breach of power from the ignition switch to the starter when failing? I will check to make sure that power is not making it to the starter tomorrow... I'm just not that familiar with the circuit.
All of the lights that show up when starting the car are coming on when I am driving. After about 5 minutes of driving, it is hard to accelerate and the car seems to stall (like I am trying to change gears - it is automatic). The first time it happened, I took the car to a repair shop and they told me I had a leaking hose and needed a new alternator. I had them change the hose and took the car to my usual mechanic. After two days of driving my car, he could not reproduce the problem and said he didn't think the alternator needed to be changed. I started driving the car today and it happened again. When I got home and turned the car off, it would not restart.
View 6 RepliesCars turns off while driving and may or may not start. The voltage fluctuates and dims the lights and such. Now it wont start.
The battery is good. The alternator is good. I put a new computer in it. I don't know what else to do.
On top of this awesomeness, I found this relay/sensor that seems to go nowhere (picture below). There is also a second something or another that you can see in the bottom right quarter (red wire grey attachment underneath cruise control module next to that bundle of wires) that seems to go nowhere. I didn't unplug these.
It's a 1999 Toyota Celica GT 2.2L, about 190000 miles and I just replaced the transmission not too long ago. Here's what happened, I was sitting a light, the light turned green, and I pushed the gas and the car stalled. I put it in park, tried to turn it on, and it won't start, but is still turning over, making an awful whining noise. Not the transmission. Battery is good, windows, stereo, etc still work. Terminals are good. Everything is still connected, I just changed my oil about 1000 miles ago, still has oil. Has transmission fluid, actually has all it's fluids, no leaks. No check engine light or any other lights. She did not overheat, if anything was colder than usual, No water in my motor, everything LOOKS good, and I take good care of my car, so I'm really baffled. I just spent my savings on the transmission, I'm not a mechanic, I'm just learning to do things on my own.
View 19 RepliesI have a 2007 Kia Rio LS. I can't get it to do this ALL time time, but when I accelerate hard (passing, getting off the line quickly) I hear a metallic sort of coughing sound from my car. It seems to happen around 30-40 MPH, but not the same speed each time. I think I may have heard that sound once while it was idling.
I have done all the scheduled maintenance (I'm behind a bit for the 70,000) that my mechanic has recommended, and I keep up OK with my oil changes. We've skipped doing the timing belt thing, because it's a tear apart job- we're going to wait until 'other things' need doing and get it all in one fell swoop. This is my road trip car. I'm worried my transmission is slipping, or my timing belt is prepping to do something horrible while I'm on the road. Probably in the middle of nowhere.....
What should be the RPM when cruising at 65 m.p.h. on a flat, well paved freeway? The car is carrying only the driver in this case. My transmission was replaced and my RPM is now 3,100 rather than, as I recall, around 2599. The mechanix says that the transmission is for a Honda Prelude and that they're all the same. Is this true? By the way, my gas milage has proportionately dropped.
Also, how difficult is it to replace the rear shocks? Can this be done in the driveway with the car's rear end securely up on blocks?
One last problem involves the status indicator on the dashboard. This is the one that shows the status of the doors, brake lights, etc. Sometimes this comes on and flickers. Sometimes it never comes on, except for the test flash when starting the car. Sometimes it always stays on. Is this an easy fix?
How difficult is it to change the fuel pump module?
View 4 Replies1997 Honda Prelude Clutch won't shift on a HOT day. When its hot I can't shift very easy between gears. However, the clutch is newer and so it works just fine. When its cold its sometimes tough but not as hard at all. Could it be a clutch master cylinder or slave cylinder? Do I need to bleed it?
View 1 RepliesSo earlier this week i took my truck in for a check engine light and a issue when i would pull up to a Red Light my truck started knocking like a Diesel motor. I quickly put the truck into neutral and the issue went away.
Is there an issue with the 5.4L motors mine only had 69000km and was properly maintained with an oil change every 8000km? 2009 F150 5.4L new motor after 69000Km
If I am moving in reverse and tap the brake I hear a clunk from the rear of the car. If I continue in reverse and then again apply the brake then no clunk. If I drive forward and stop, no clunk. If I then shift into reverse again and apply brake I get the clunk again. Had the struts/shocks replaced but no change.
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