Wipers will not turn off unless the car is turned off?
View 9 Replies1993 Buick Regal 3.1l V6 Multiport injection
Problem: The care currently has a hard start, and a fluctuating idle. I bought the car a year and a half ago it still has low miles about 94,000. The care used to start fine but had a fluctuating idle in the range of 750 to 2500 rpm. My brother who is a mechanic and doesn’t live near, do all the gaskets when he visited. Then the idle fluctuation dropped to 750 to 1000rpm, when the car rpms fluctuate there is a whirring sound I can hear from the cab, like a pump or pull system. On occasion there is a vibration as well but it is inconstant and irregular. Fuel pressure seems to fluctuate as well. If the car will not start I give it a little gas and it will run fine after a minute or two, but then the idle starts to fluctuate.
No fuse issues I can tell and relays seem to be fine.Checked for lose wiring connections found, none. I have replaced:
- Hoses and gaskets
- Starter motor
- Battery
- Fuel Pressure regulator
- Fuel Filter
- Spark plugs and wires
- TPS
- Idle Air control Valve
- Crank shaft sensor
- PCV.
Right now I’m thinking it could be the fuel pump (a nightmare to change on this car), a fuel injector failing, and the ignition switch.
My 2000 Hyundai Elantra with about 130,000 miles has possibly the loudest engine imaginable. It seems fine at start-up but really starts to rumble around 35mph. Once I get to 60+mph, I'm getting hearing damage, and there's enough shaking to make it difficult to see what's in my mirrors.
Oddly enough, the engine clams down when I turn the wheel around a curve on the highway. As soon as I'm driving straight again, it's loud and shaky. In addition, the gauge next to my speedometer, (which I believe is 1st, 2nd, 3rd gear, etc, right?), the needle fluctuates significantly and bounces around violently between 2 and 3. The check engine light will come on and stay on for a week, then shut off for another week. It has turned on and then off several times now.
Would you say this is a simple oil issue? I just got it changed not too long ago. And it only started when it started to get really cold here in MA. Could just be a coincidence though. I don't want to pay a lot to fix anything, I only need to get this car to last 6 more months til I can get something new. Any small steps you think I could take to decrease the shaking and noise?
My wagon 2003 l-300 has flickering lights and when the radio is off you can hear the engine whine. Is this a grounding problem or is the alternating system going out? I have checked all the connections and do not see anything obvious. What to check.
View 9 Replies1994 Ford Ranger. Replaced coil, ignition control module, and distributor. Have checked fuses. Cranks fine.
View 19 RepliesDriver's door can't be opened. This 2005 Kia Optima EX has power door locks. It does NOT have rods that you can manually pull up to open it or push down to lock it. There are two ways to lock on unlock all the doors....with rocker switch on the driver's armrest or by pushing or pulling a small "button" located under the inside door latch to lock or unlock the door. When the driver's door gets stuck in the locked position I can hear the electric "actuator" inside the door panel as they lock or unlock the doors.
Using the "button" under the inside door handle doesn't work but if I rock the rocker switch from lock to unlock while my wife pulls on the outside door handle the door will eventually come open. The driver's lock/unlock button is operating incorrectly. When the rocker switch is pressed down to open the door, the button moves all the way back but then moves about about an eighth of an inch forward. The right side door buttons don't do this....they move all the way back or to the open door position and stay there. So, is the actuator in the door bad, is the rocker switch bad, or does= some electrical device, (a solenoid?) etc, bad that is not even located in the door?
My son has a 2000 Eclipse which is making a horrible noise. Some say it is the lifters, some say it is a rod. Sounds like an airplane engine. The oil was not that low, maybe two quarts when we checked. He wants to sell it for 2000.00. Do you think it could be repaired and then sold? Do they have a problem common with this sound?
View 3 RepliesI have 2006 Pontiac Torrent AWD with front disc and rear drum brakes. My ABS & traction control lights come on together (sometime) when I hit brakes slowly to slow down my car around 20-30km/h with a grumbling/scraping feeling sent to my feet from brake pedal (feel like rumble strip on highway). ABS & T/C lights go away if I shut off engine and restart car. It also happens if I accelerate at that speed. This issue does not happen when I hit brake hard.
View 11 RepliesI owned a 1980 Chevy Citation 4 cyl AT. Much is known about the rear brakes locking up with those with MT. There was a recall. On my automatic, however, the power brake assist would often fail resulting in a couple crashes for me. There was an investigation into this in 1983 but I can't find what the outcome was - what the actual culprit was.
View 4 RepliesI have a 94 chevy blazer. I purchased it not running. I replaced the fuel tank, fuel pump, fuel filter and plugs. The car ran fine for a couple of weeks. Then it started choking out after putting into drive. i tried to give it gas while shifting and it still died. I replaced the fuel regulator, dist. cap, fuel filter again, and the ECM. It now chokes out while in park. What am I missing?
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