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Stalling - Electrical-wiring - Honda - Batteries :: Stuck On Hills / Mid Dash Lights Not Coming On
Yet again my honda is doing some new. My mid dash lights don't come on at all anymore (even when i start the car), my power drive and winter drive buttons don't work, I can't stop/start on a hill, I have to get 2rpms going to get anywhere, and my battery volts are over 12 when driving.
View 1 RepliesDodge - Dynasty :: 1992 Won't Start Once Engine Gets Warmed Up
'92 Dynasty is a good runner, but, once the engine gets warmed up, I shut off the engine at my own risk. If the car sits for a while with the hood open, it will start again, but attempting to start immediately after shutting off will result in the engine spinning over but no sounds of attempted ignition. It seems that once the coil is cooled down to slightly more than body temp the engine will start like nothing was wrong.
View 3 RepliesBmw - 525 :: 2002 - Warmed Engine Stops When Gas Pedal Is Pressed
My 02 BMW 525i engine starts to stop running when the gas pedal is pressed. The engine starts and drives fine when the engine is cold. However, after driving for a while like more than 20 miles, I mean when the engine warms up already, the engine suddenly stops when the gas pedal is pressed, like stopping in the traffic light or STOP sign and starts to drive. I replaced the idle air control valve, but it does not work. What should I check next?
View 7 RepliesCoolant - Radiators :: 1996 Honda Accord - Smoking From Under The Hood
My '96 Honda Accord started smoking from under the hood as I pulled into my garage today. Upon closer inspection it seems like it was steam, not smoke, and it came from a crack in what I assume was some portion of my coolant line. The crack is in a solid, plastic tube that runs right along the fore-most part of the car, right along where the latch to unlock the hood. There is an escape valve that warns not to open it while the engine is hot because of the coolant that will be under pressure, hence the supposition that it is leaking heated coolant.
Obviously this needs to be fixed. So I have a few questions.What could have caused the crack?Is there a way to repair the crack without replacing the part?How serious if this / How far can I get away with driving?
Toyota - Tacoma :: 1989 - Won't Start Up And Intermittently Dies - CEL Comes On
I have driven small Toyota 4X4 pickups since 1980 including an '89 for the past 25 years and > 200,000 miles. One day a couple of months ago it would crank but would not start although battery and starter seem fine. I did some basic testing eventually measuring the ignition coil resistance (within published range) and inspecting the distributor cap (looked fine). Upon reassembly, it started right up and ran fine for a few weeks. I hadn't really done anything beside cleaning the rotor and cap contacts, moving around the wiring while in the process.
A few weeks ago I was driving in traffic just a few miles from home and it momentarily lost power twice within a mile. Check engine light was noted the second time. I was busy watching the cars ahead of me the first time. Both times it resumed running on it's own and I continued on. A couple of weeks later it died three times within a few miles from home.
The first two times I was able to pull off out of traffic. Several minutes later, I was able to restart the engine. The third time I was stuck in a turn lane at an intersection, police arrived right away and the vehicle was towed to the dealer where I had purchased it only two miles away. They have been unable to reproduce the problem but believe they have eliminated the fuel filter and fuel pump as the cause. They have driven the vehicle several miles and left it running for an hour and a half with no problems noted. No diagnostic codes were recovered.
They now want me to retrieve the undiagnosed, unrepaired vehicle. We know it will fail again, probably under the worst possible circumstances. In heavy traffic, a multi-vehicle crash with associated injuries or deaths could result. It's like if the vehicle itself doesn't tell them what to do, they don't know how to approach such a problem on their own any more. I'm not in a position to pour unlimited funds into a vehicle I have recently replaced (with a 2014 Tacoma). There must be a logical approach beyond checking the fuel filter and pump but they seem clueless. I can't safely drive the vehicle and won't offer it for sale until the problem is identified and corrected.
Ford - F100 :: 1976 - Wobble Randomly Appear At Speeds Over 45 Mph Or After Hitting Speed Bump Or Cattle Guard
So I have 1976 f100. For the last few months I have been dealing with the famous death wobble of solid axle trucks. It seems to randomly appear at speeds over 45mph or after hitting a speed bump or cattle guard. I have tried several things like replace all the bushings in the front. Ive looked for any bars with play and fixed them right away. And I even replaced the ball joints thinking it would work. I actually let another mechanic to solve the problem, I was fine for about 3 days. I am running out of parts to check and its hard to drive it down the road.
View 1 RepliesDodge - Ramwagon :: 2002 - Check Gauges Light Will Come On Suddenly
So my band mates and I own a 2002 Dodge Ram Wagon (15 passenger) with ~130k miles on it. Bought it 2 years ago with 106k. We've had a slew of problems with it ranging fro brakes to radiator to electrical problems. We are often on the road for 4-6 hours straight (sometimes more) and we typically drive it above the speed limit on the freeway because we need to be somewhere. So lately while driving the check gauges light will come on suddenly and the alternator/battery gauge is maxed out, which lasts a few minutes and then returns to normal. Im wondering if this is something indicative of a potential alternator issue or merely just the van working hard and having some sort of power fluctuation momentarily. There's typically no issue in starting the engine or anything like that, and we actually had the alternator belt blow out about 6 months ago and we replaced the battery probably a year or so ago, so the whole system should be pretty new and in good shape.
View 3 RepliesSubaru - Justy :: 1989 - Rear Wheels Locked Up
Subaru released a TSB about the rear output bearing locking up if the gear oil in the transmission gets too low. This seems to have happened to me last week when I did a 70mph 360 on the freeway and went in the ditch.After dragging it on and off the tow truck twice, the rear wheels came loose. It was almost 3 quarts low on gear oil, so i filled it up and drove it home.There is a severe leak from the rear output seal, which is cracked. Looking at the pictures, it seems the driveshaft got hot and locked up inside the extension housing, and not the bearing (which is farther inside the housing.) My question is, can I sand the burr off the driveshaft, replace the seal, and call it good? Or, should I pull the transmission apart and replace the bearings?
View 16 RepliesBrakes - Civic - Honda - Wheels :: Car Drags At 60 Mph
I have a 2003 Honda Civic EX. Purchased used with 82,530 on it. Current mileage of about 114,100 on it now. I recently replaced the front and rear brakes. During that process, I was informed that the rear brakes were warped (they were cleaned & adjusted when I replaced the front brakes, but they continued to squeak like a transit bus). I had the rear shoes replaced and there is no more squeaking, but I get a "drag" that is particularly noticeable when riding at highway speeds (55mph or higher). The drag seems to come from the rear right of the car, and it reminds me of what you might feel if you were driving against the emergency brake.
Took the car back to the mechanic that did the rear brakes. He started down the road of it being bad ball bearings. He test drove it with me and experienced the drag, but when he put it on the lift said something was catching and made an adjustment that eliminated this 'drag'. My impression was that the drag came from some oversight when the rear shoes were replaced.
The car rode fine for a few days after that, but now the dragging symptom is back. The mechanic's assumption was that it could be a ball bearing that is on it's way to going bad. I don't hear any noises in relationship to this drag. It feels either like something is holding the car back, or like something is keeping the power from the engine from making it to the wheels.
Is this a wheel bearing/brake issue? Would needing new spark plugs have any impact on this?
Mitsubishi - Lancer :: 2002 - Transmission Malfunction - Revs High In Stop And Go Traffic
I have a 2002 lancer. Here is my problem which has been occurring for the past 4 years: Transmission? When in stop and go traffic it feels like it is reving very high. Sometimes it feels like it gets stuck in a gear because it doesn?t accelerate at the moment the gas is being pushed and then it thrusts forward. When stopped completely the rpm varies between the 1 and 2. When stopped in traffic, when the brake is applied, sometimes you can feel the car wanting to thrust forward, and you have to hold your foot on the brake very firmly/hard. Maybe twice in the past 2 or 3 years, it has thrust forwarded while I thought i had my foot on the brake, but maybe I just needed to push super harder thna I was. When put in park it the rpm is usually at the 2 maybe 3, so when put in park it suddenly feels like the gear is very high...
When the car is turned off, it shakes and seems like it was thrown out of gear. The engine always feels very very warm after all this happens. I have mentioned this to a couple of mechanics, but they never take it seriously, and thus never find a problem. When they drive it, it does not exhibit the problem, because it only happens in stop and go traffic, and or when it has been running/driven around for a long time.