Recently Indexed Messages:-
Suzuki - Verona :: 2005 - Fixing Codes P0171 And P0174
My Suzuki has been in and out of maybe 5 shops in attempts to fix engine codes P0171 (system lean) and P0174 (bank 1 rich). None of them have successfully done so. I tried to take it into a dealer, but I was informed that diagnostic would take several hours (maybe $1000), and that the fix may be another ~$1500-2000, even though I have already replaced many parts related to these codes.
The dealer advised me to give up on the car, as the repairs could easily exceed the value of the car. I don't really care about that, I just need a reliable car that works.
Nissan - 370z :: Battery Leak - Corrosion Under The Front Passenger Side
We got a certified used 370Z about 4-5 months ago from a Nissan dealership. The car was great until we happened to look underneath at around the 3 month mark and noticed that there was a TON of corrosion under the front passenger side. We had not even had the oil changed in the car- it was exactly as it was when we got it from the dealer. We took it back to them, and they said the battery had been overfilled and had leaked all over the car. Now it is in with them, and they say they have to remove the engine in order to sandblast it. They also happened to mention that they wish they had caught it before because if they had they never would have certified it.
View 13 RepliesPontiac - Grandprix :: Exhaust Smell In Heater System
I have a 01 Grand Prix GTP and there is a smell coming out of the vents when the heater is on. It smells like exhaust. What might be causing this?
View 3 RepliesSaturn :: 2004 Ion Running Very Hot When AC Is On
I have a 2004 Saturn Ion with about 189,000 miles. Recently the car has been running very hot when AC is on and the car is idling or in traffic. When I stop for about 30 seconds ill hear something click on, the AC will start to blow warm air, the engine will heat up and the car has a tendency to jump forward. When I start driving again the AC will cool off but the engine takes a while to cool back down. When it jumps forward, the RPM's shoot up and it jumps forward about a foot. I recently had it inspected and looked at by a mechanic, but this was over the winter when there was no need to use the AC.
View 6 RepliesNissan - 240sx :: When At A Stop In Neutral Idles Between 1300 Rpm Down To 0 And Almost Stalling
i have a 96 240 w/ sr20det 5 spd. Problem comes and goes. When at a stop in neutral idles between 1300 rpm down to 0 and almost stalling, then when i take off ( and in any gear) there is noticeable lag and engine wont rev past 5200 rpm like there is a rev limiter or governor. then the problem will just go away for a while. I've only tried cleaning the IAC valve.
View 9 RepliesExpedition :: Won't Start When Roads Are Wet / Snow Melting
It seems when the roads are wet, snow melting, when I turn off engine and get back in, it won't start....usually have to wait at least a half hour before it will start....what would be getting wet?
View 2 RepliesToyota - Camry - Struts :: Front Of Car A Little Wiggly / Brakes Locking Up
My husband noticed that our 2001 Camry was driving strange. He thought it was a problem with the brakes locking up. When I drove it, I felt like the front of the car was a little wiggly and thought we might need an alignment. When we took it in, they said that the brakes are okay, but that the front struts are "soft." They said that the front struts need to be replaced, which includes an alignment, and we should replace the rear struts at the same time. They said we should get new tires at the same time.
I've been trying to research it some, and we don't have a lot of the problems associated with bad struts. We haven't noticed any bouncing or anything like that. I think they are honest mechanics, but my husband doesn't trust them. We don't have enough money to get all that work done right now, so my question is, can we wait until we notice bouncing or the tires get worse to have the work done? (We would be trying to save up the money in the meantime.) Or, can we just take care of the front struts and wait on the tires and rear struts? Should we just get a second opinion? (The car does have 145,000 miles on it, and I've never had the struts replaced. I bought it with about 65,000 miles on it.)
Coolant - Mitsubishi - Galant :: 2003 - Smelling Something Sweet When Cold Air Is Put On
When I put on the cold air in my 2003 Mitsubishi Galant, after it's on for a while, I start smelling something sweet like syrup. I haven't noticed it when the air's not on and I don't know how long it's been happening because my sister's been using my car since 2008. It seems to be coming from the front, but I'm not really sure. what this is (is it coolant?), is it dangerous, and how much it should be to fix?
View 5 RepliesStall - Jetta - Rpm :: VW Stalls While Driving And Won't Start For Up To 30 Minutes Afterwards
I'm really bad with cars but I'll try to be as specific as possible.
Car: 2002 VW Jetta
Basically the car will just stall out of nowhere while driving (not stopped at a light), I would say usually about 10-20 minutes after I started driving. After this, when I try to start it, it makes that noise like it is trying to start but the actual ignition doesn't happen. it usually takes me about 15 minutes to start it up again.
In addition to this, when driving, the RPM seems to randomly drop off often, and the car also jerks frequently, especially when I press on the pedal quickly.
Impala - Chevrolet :: Coolant Temp Fluctuating / Going From 200 Up To 240 Sometimes 260 Degrees
I have a 2002 Chevy Impala with the 3.4L engine. The car has 180K+ miles on the original engine. The coolant temperature started fluctuating recently. Going from 200 degrees up to 240 sometimes 260 degrees.
I recently had the check engine light on with the P0420 code which indicates a bad catalytic converter, I had that replaced and I was hoping that maybe the lack of exhaust flow through the converter was causing the overheating. It is still fluctuating however after the converter replacement.
The coolant temperature seems to go up when the car is idling but when moving it starts to go back down to normal. I had the cooling fan assembly replaced last year after one of the fans failed. These are less than a year old and are both operating as expected.
A little history on the engine. It originally had that crappy DexCool in it that then ate away at the cheap plastic head gasket causing oil to leak into the coolant system. This caused the coolant to turn into 'mud' within the radiator and eventually the head gasket failed completely and I had to have that replaced along with putting in ethylene glycol to replace the DexCool. Now when the coolant system was flushed, I am not completely sure that all that 'mud' was flushed out of the radiator. So the radiator may not be operating at full capacity. In fact, driving through the mountains this summer going up inclines, the car would tend to start overheating.
So thoughts on what might be the issue, radiator, thermostat, sensor, water pump, something else? I'm pretty sure it's not the sensor because sensors don't fail in this manner (they fail either high or low). I'm leaning toward the radiator because once I get some air flow across it, the coolant temp gets back to normal.
Also, the A/C is sometimes working great and blowing really cold and other times it is just slightly cold.