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Chevy - Silverado :: 1997 - CSFI Makes Whistling Noise And Sequential Fuel Box Vibrating
I have a 1997 Chevrolet pickup, the No.5 Spark Plug Builds up and fires to one side, I can drive up to 50 miles per hr and it misses once in a while, I can get up to 60-65 and it does the same. I changed out no.5 Fuel injector and it still misses, I changed out the seals on no 5 valve, I changed out the fuel filter; and the CSFI makes a whistling noise & the sequential fuel box makes a vibration. I can put the old filter back on and it doesn't whistle or vibrate. I put the new filter back on it whistles and vibrates the sequential fuel box. The trouble light does not come on and tells me to check the engine. Do I need to replace the fuel pump?
View 3 RepliesFord - Explorer - Airconditioning :: No Cold Air Blows?
How do you diagnose and repair a non working AC? The blowers still work, but no cold air blows.
View 4 RepliesJeep - Wrangler :: 1999 - Hard To Put In First Gear - Grinds When Putting In Reverse
I have a 5 speed 99 Jeep Wrangler and when the car is running, it's extremely hard to put the car into first gear from a standstill. However, once it's in gear, shifting is fairly normal but still offers a little resistance. I feel like I have to wiggle it into gear. When putting the car in reverse from a standstill, the gears grind terribly.
Once the car is off, shifting is still difficult until I put it in reverse. Somehow, this "fixes" the problem and everything shifts smooth as a dream until I start the engine and then it's a 50/50 shot until it eventually fails later on.
Ford F-150 (2009-2014) :: Truck Started Knocking Like A Diesel Motor When Pull Up To Red Light
So earlier this week i took my truck in for a check engine light and a issue when i would pull up to a Red Light my truck started knocking like a Diesel motor. I quickly put the truck into neutral and the issue went away.
Is there an issue with the 5.4L motors mine only had 69000km and was properly maintained with an oil change every 8000km? 2009 F150 5.4L new motor after 69000Km
Clutches :: Sound And Movement When Shift Between First And Second Gear
I am trying to figure out why my car makes a certain sound and movement when I shift between first and second gear. I don't think I am making the car lug or stall out because the RPMs never fall too low, but there is a clear "ka-chunk-ka-chunk" noise with a corresponding forward-backward lurch. I am pretty sure the car is fine, and it's all my bad technique because my girlfriend does not get that "effect" as much as I do (really, not at all, and it's a bit emasculating that shes such a better driver than me!). This does not happen when shifting into first from a stop, but then again, I'm not the best at that either..
I drive a 2002 Honda Civic with 120k.
Hyundai - Accent :: Squealing Fan Belt At Start Up
I thought it was the power steering pump & replaced it and still get the noise. A friend did squirt belt dressing on the belt while running and the sound disappeared for a short period of time, so now my guess is its the belt which is not loose, I went and loosened the four bolts on the power steering pump trying to move it thinking there was a crooked connection between the two pulleys maybe, but no. I start up my car and get a squeal that wiould wake the dead for a minute or two, then all is fine driving. If I drive to the store shut it off for 10 minutes usually starts w/ no noise, looks like I made a charitable donation on the new pump,...also the the power steering fluid is correct
View 8 RepliesChrysler - Alarm :: 2001 Horn And Lights Started Going On And Off
Alarm went off when my wife started the car. Horn and lights started going on & off. My wife disconnected the fuse to the horn & then the battery was disconnected. That stopped the alarm; we hooked the battery back up & the horn fuse was reinstalled. We tried to start the car, but it only turns over. It won't run.
View 3 RepliesEclipse - Mitsubishi :: 1998 - After Driving A Bit Get Hard Bucks Then Eventually Stalls
Description: after 20-30 minutes (or miles) of driving I will begin to get hard bucks (misfires beyond one cylinder) and eventually stall. The car will typically turn right back over - but stall after only a minute or so. If I leave the car off for around 15 minutes it will run fine for a while and then stall out again.
It sounds as if the car is running out of fuel which it is not. The pump remains primed and the pressure is normal.
What I've done so far:
Fuel pump has been swapped
Fuel filter has been replaced
Fuel lines have been verified (even cleaned to rail - injector heads and intake manifold... It's been a fun weekend)
Fuel pump relay has been replaced
I have also recently replaced the ignition coil due to an unrelated issue for which I will provide detail so that you too can rule this out. I had random multiple misfires in bank 3 - replaced the coil and the misfires were gone. When the problem came back I was suspect of the new coil and originally believed that this had failed at temp. This coil has been tested hot and cold and passed each way. I also swapped out for the coil with the issue on bank 3 just to verify.
I have read in a few forums which point towards either the ASD relay (which I was also suspect of early in the process of elimination) itself failing when heated or the camshaft position sensor and or the crankshaft position sensor causing the relay to trip when they are heated.
Saturn - Relay :: Front Heater Starts Blowing Cold When Stop Even For A Red Light
I have a 2007 Saturn Relay minivan. The front heater blows hot but starts blowing cold when you stop even for a red light but will blow hot again when you speed up and the rear heater never does blow hot, what could cause this? This vehicle has about 93,000 miles on it.
View 5 RepliesMazda :: 2004 - Engine Code Reading P2402 - Evaporative System Leak High Discharge
I have had issues for over a week now first problem check engine light not sure of the code but the mechanic said it was the spark plugs and vaccum leak hose (which I knew about the hose). $205.00 later replaced all 6 plugs and hose. Now today on way to work I'm getting that hesitation when in lower gear such as stopping and then accelerating it jerks some it was doing this alot before replacing the plugs.
We did a diagnostic code reader and it said the code P2402 I did read it could be my gas cap which I don't have a dealer gas cap on there now I did about 1 yr 1/2 ago but got a lock key gas cap instead. I have been doing some reading I would need to replace leak detection pump which apparently costly in repair.
BTW car has 119,000 miles I commute far from work 5 days a week. My car is very important part of my life! I did also read someone stated there was a recall on Mazda 6 wondering do I need to call the dealership to see if this is actual recall and I can cross my fingers get this fixed on them.