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Toyota - Prius :: No Brake Fluid Pressure To Right Rear Wheel Cylinder
No brake fluid pressure to right rear wheel cylinder on a 08 Prius. Also abs, vsc and brake system warning lights are on. All started after installing new rear brake shoes.
View 6 RepliesSubaru - Xv-crosstrek :: 2014 Hybrid Engine - Acceleration Is Poor And Inconsistent
At the beginning of this year I purchased the 2014 XV Crosstrek Hybrid. I have been trying to love it for 7 months now, and am failing. The way the hybrid engine functions creates a very jolting, inconsistent, and frustrating driving experience:
The acceleration is poor and inconsistent ... it never seems to know what gear it should be in. So much so that there have been times I have felt unsafe moving into traffic (and I am not one to push a car or "jump out" into traffic; friends who have driven it also have the same experience).
The start/stop of the engine when it goes to/from electric creates a resounding shudder that shakes the entire car every time it happens (and it happens ALOT).
The engine is like a PC instead of a MAC ... it's always doing something and you never know what it's up to.
When you use the defrost or the A/C it makes all these matters that much worse.
I'm very disappointed that Subaru would put a car that functions like this on the market. I'm a long time fan of Subaru's (I still drive my 1992 Legacy wagon manual transmission, which, quite honestly, drives a whole lot better than this new hybrid). And I counted on Subaru when, after 22 years, I went looking for a new car. This is not a vehicle that Subaru should have on the road. I get so many people asking me about it because I got it in the Plasma green and it is beautiful. And I give them the honest truth about it's performance; I have NOT sold at least 5 cars for Subaru.
I looked at so many cars from so many other makers, and this was the only one I truly wanted. It seemed to have everything and I trusted that Subaru's engine would be fabulous as always. Make it run smoothly, accelerate well in a trustworthy manner, not have such a jolting engine experience. You've got it on all other counts with this car ... just not the engine, and all the other factors do not make up for poor engine performance.
Dodge - Electrical-wiring - Ram50 :: 1995 - Intermittent Dash Panel Electrical Malfunction?
My beloved 1995 Dodge Ram Van has intermittent dash panel electrical issues. The gas gauge an speedometer are intermittent, coupled with lights and radio on off too. It It all started when I had the transition services years ago. It has less than 100k mileage.
View 1 RepliesToyota - Prius :: Headlights Slowly Going Out?
The headlights on my Prius have been slowly going out for a few months now. I've had to turn the off and on to get them to work again. Now, I'm at the point where I really need to have them replaced. I found Sylvania halogen light bulbs on an after market site. According to the site, these are the lights that would go into my Prius. Am I getting something wrong?
View 9 RepliesInfiniti :: 1991 - Turn Signal / Blower / ABS Warning Lights Stopped Working
3 weeks ago my father (who died 2 weeks ago) gave me his 1991 Infiniti G20 which he has kept in great condition over the years with the last few being the exception. He's the original owner and I have paperwork from every repair and service it's had. Unfortunately the issue it has now started happening after he passed so I'm not going to get info about how it's been running the last couple years. Now to the good stuff.
When I got the car it was outside under a carport like always (lives near Seattle). I drove the car about 200 miles and then a couple days later I noticed the turn signal stopped working, but not only that there were several things not working. The turn signals (yet hazard lights work), the seat belt motor will not let it roll back across my chest, the blower won't work but the AC and heat still works, the rear defogger stopped, the ABS stopped, and the warning lights and sounds for doors open and seat belts were undone don't work.
Then while driving everything just "clicked" back on for about 5 minutes, then "clicked back off the rest of the drive. The next day I started the car, everything was fine but after waiting a couple minutes for the windows to get defogged everything shut off again. Driving around with foggy windows, no turn signals, and no seat belt across my chest is starting to scare me. Oh, and the problem can turn on and off without the engine on. If I just put the key into the "on" position it will sometime switch between working and not working.
I have unplugged and replugged the fuses and relays on the left side under the steering wheel, I've checked the voltage of the battery (2 years old with 7 year warranty and alternator was replaced 18 months ago) and it was about 12.4. I've tried reading the wiring diagram in the service manual without any luck figuring it out. When I took it to the Nissan dealership they did their scans and couldn't recreate the issue and charged me $100 just for doing the electrical tests.
I want this car to keep going since it has 174,000 miles and runs great (manual trans) so need to figure out whats going on. It doesn't seem like it's a loose wire because the car doesn't have to move for it to go back and forth between working and failing. It sometimes works more often if the car is kept in a garage but even then I'm not sure. At one point in the last year a couple mice got into the trunk but they have since left and I don't see anything in the manual that says they could have effected anything all the way back there.
Toyota - Batteries - Corolla - Alternators :: 2014 - Starter Making A Loud Buzzing Noise
I bought my 2014 Corolla new a little over 3 years ago. Yesterday, when I was leaving work to head home I went to start my car and I was just met with my starter making a loud buzzing noise. My lights in my car, car fob, and etune radio were all working properly, but the car was just not able to start! My coworker told me that he heard of a trick where if you knock on the starter with something while trying to start it, it might give it enough of a kick to get going. Whether or not it was coincidence, it did work.
I was able to drive home, about 15 minutes (still daylight, did not need car lights), with no trouble. When I got home I turned my car off and waited for a few seconds and tried to start again. It worked, but it sounded like it struggled. I did it one more time and it failed with that same noise again. I resolved that I would just go get a new battery in the morning.
In the morning, my car was able to start, albeit with some struggle again. I made it all the way to work, and over lunch I was able to start it again and drive it to AutoZone to have them test the battery starter alternator. They told me the battery was too depleted to test it, so I went across the street to Walmart and bought a new battery. After replacing it, the car started like a champ as expected, and I drove back to Autozone to have them test my alternator and starter. The starter came back good, but they said that there was a fault in the test with the alternator. I gave them my old battery and asked them to trickle charge and test it just to see if it happened to still be a good battery that was just losing charge, or if it really was just a dying battery.
Volvo - 850 :: Noise When Engine Is Cold But Once Warm, Much Valve Clicking
Our 1997 850GL wagon with 160k miles has persisently noisy valves. At considerable cost, we replaced the hydraulic valve lifters with new ones from Volvo. Noise persists. Increased oil viscosity, now at a ridiculous 15W40. Also using an oil additive to further increase viscosity. Little if any noise when engine is cold but once warm, much valve clicking. We change oil religiously and keep oil topped up.
View 7 RepliesStall :: 2003 Dodge Ram Bog Down And Not Respond To Throttle When Engage Into Gear
My truck will start and idle but when I engage it into a gear, whether it is drive or reverse, it will start to bog down and not respond to throttle. Sometimes the truck will stall other times it will just bog down then the rpms shoot up and the truck will run normal after. If the truck does die it will fire right up and have no issues and run great. Now whenever I stop and shutoff the truck the next time I start it up it will go through the exact same process. It doesn't matter how long the truck has been shut off. Could be a minute could be a day. Truck has 177k miles, in the last year it has given a code for camshaft sensor going bad and has been replaced twice. Have also had the catalytic converter and the O2 sensors replaced within the last 6 months. Not sure if this matters but was told my truck is California Emissions by the garage that replaced the cat.
View 3 RepliesGmc - Yukon :: 2002 - Cutting Off At High Speeds
Have a 2002 Yukon 5.3 ltr engine (155K miles) that likes to cut off at highway speeds. Usually happens after 4 or 5 hours of running at 70 to 80 mph. Strangely if I set the cruise control and do the same speeds, nothing... When it happens I end up coasting to the side at the roadway and sitting there for 15 or 20 minutes and it'll start right up and usually go the rest of the way. I've talked to a couple repair shops and they have checked service bulletins and have never been able to find anything. Will be driving to Connecticut for the 4th and not looking forward to being on 95 with the possibility of this happening again.
View 2 RepliesParkingbrakes - Ford - Fuses - Focus :: 2003 - Stuck In Park / Release Does Not Trigger On Startup
I have a 2003 Ford Focus that over the past few days has found itself stuck in park. When I start the engine, the release doesn't trigger and I have to use the manual release in order to move the gearshift level to drive. The same happens if I've been driving, stop and put it back in park--the release button is locked and I have to use the manual release.
My owner's manual suggests that I may have a blown fuse or my brake lamps may not be operating. My brake lamps are, so I'm looking to check the fuses.
My confusion now is coming from which fuse I need to check, and whether its in the fuse panel or power distribution box. The manual has a handy chart showing right where to look, but I don't know what I am looking for.
[URL] ....
I'm not too saavy with working on vehicles, should I just take it to a mechanic or is this something I can check and replace myself if blown?