I have a VW Jetta Sportwagen with 17" wheels and Conti 225/45R17H low profile tires. Ever since I first bought the car, i have been annoyed by the higher-than-expected road noise. Perhaps this is caused by the tires, perhaps by the body characteristics of a wagon, perhaps it's just the noise anyone would get from a Jetta chassis. The tires are due for replacement soon, and I'm wondering if I would experience a meaningful reduction in road noise if I switched to 16" wheels and less sporty tires? It wouldn't be cheap to replace wheels and tires, but it could be worth it if the noise level drops significantly. If the wheel change is not worthwhile, which 17" tires would be a quieter choice?
View 14 RepliesHow are they connected?
View 8 RepliesI have a 1996 Mercedes C220 and I've been told that I need the leaking evaporator replaced on my car in order to get the AC working/cooling again, which the repair estimate turns out to be a down payment on a new car. Since the AC is already not working, can the 'stop leak' type products be used to see if they will work AND does using this product affect the heating system in any way? I don't want to mess up another 'system' a be left hanging in the winter without heat!
View 4 RepliesFor the last few months, I've had an annoying problem with my 2003 Liberty. If I'm driving the car with the blower on (i.e. when it's cold out), whenever I stop the car and am idling, I get a very strong exhaust smell coming in through the vents. If I turn the fan off, the smell goes away. At first I figured it was due to being behind other vehicles, but now I've noticed that it does it all the time, even when there's nobody else around.
I brought the jeep into a shop a couple of weeks ago to deal with a separate CEL issue (evap leak - fixed by replacing gas cap) and I asked the mechanic to look for an exhaust leak. He said he didn't see any readily apparent problems with the exhaust line.
I'd like to deal with this because it's not very pleasant to inhale exhaust fumes through the vents. I intend to take it back in - but is there anything I can tell him (i.e. like, a particular part of the exhaust system to inspect more carefully) that will solve the problem?
I was surprised this morning by my 2000 Pontiac Bonneville not starting. All the other devices and systems activated but the engine made no attempt to turn over at all. It's a rebuilt title but the car has shown no signs of difficulty except a small bit of sputtering last night when it was unfortunately running on fumes and the service light activating after the gas tank was filled. My limited experience and lack of funds makes me hope this is a blown fuse as that would be relatively quick and painless (so I understand it) to fix but a friend has suggested it may be the starter and I am not foolish enough to believe it couldn't be something even worse. Of course I want to be appraised of more serious concerns in case I need to start making long term plans to restore my mobility.
View 2 RepliesI have an '05 Chrysler 300C AWD with approximately 65k miles. The transmission makes a distinct clunking sound when downshifting and I am seeking advice about the cause and solution. For example, I live on a hill and when I slow down at the bottom of the hill the car will downshift and there is a clunking sound. This happens frequently when I am slowing down. In the past year the transmission quit 3x, in all cases the car would start and operate fine but would not go into gear - it would idle but nothing would happen when I put it in gear. The first two times the dealer kept the car for several days and made various adjustments and the car eventually worked again. The third time the Torque Converter was replaced, but the clunking noise continues.
View 3 RepliesThree times this winter, during or after a several day freeze, my car won't start without lots of gas peddle pumping. AAA tech said it was water in the gas and recommended HEET. I've used it with apparent success but wonder why I've never had this problem before in over 50 years of driving in the Seattle area.
View 2 RepliesI have a 2002 GMC Envoy that has developed a shrill whistle. It starts after the car hits about 20 mph, stops when braking or at a standstill, and sometimes doesn't start right away if the car is cold. My mechanic has checked things out and can't find anything. He pinpointed the sound to the front right side, but replaced the wheel bearing and that didn't fix the problem.
View 4 RepliesI have a 2005 Subaru Outback XT with turbo. I have had a strange problem the last two winters and have stumped two mechanics, so far.
At this time of year, it is necessary to warm my car up for a few minutes in the morning. Last winter, when I warmed my car up, I would smell gasoline outside of the car and in the cab. It only happened when it is about 25 degrees or less outside. After about 10-15 minutes, once the car was warm, the smell would go away. I figured smelling gasoline was bad news, so, I took it to my mechanic who said he found a loose clamp in the engine. He tightened it and it fixed the problem. I didn't have any other issues that winter or through the next year.
But, this winter, the problem is back. I have moved, so, I took the car to a new mechanic (recommended by friends) and told him the issue. He said that he found a loose clamp between the engine and the turbo and tightened it. He said other than that, he can't think of anything. Well, that worked for a few days. But, now, the problem is back and with a vengeance. The smell is a bit different. Still like gasoline, but kind of like exhaust, too. And it is strong. I have to open the windows for a few minutes to air the car out before I can drive it. I took it back to the mechanic, but he is stumped and not sure what to do next.
I think my next step is to take it to a Subaru dealer, but with a 10 year old car, I'm hesitant to go that route. Though, I love my car and want it to last AND be safe to drive. What is going on?
I had a clutch replacement done on my 2004 Honda CRV EX at a local shop. The replacement was taking longer than anticipated because of rust accumulation. After I was told the replacement was near completed I received a phone call that there was a buzzing sound coming from the transmission that warranted taking out the transmission a second time to investigate the internal components and potential rebuild. Prior to the replacement being done I have never heard this sound and was told my the tow truck driver he hadn't heard the sound either.
I had another transmission specialist look at the vehicle and he pointed out that the gear fluid was near empty, and that there were fresh welds directly above the point where the buzzing sound was loudest. He concluded they may have dropped the transmission or potentially dropped something within the transmission while making a weld.Three separate transmission specialists have said it is very likely the result of the clutch replacement, and potentially the pilot or throw out bearings. How I should approach this issue as I have already invested $1500 in labor and clutch replacement and would like to avoid breaking the bank.