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Civic - Honda :: 2002 - Tire Won't Spin After Sitting For 2 Weeks?
So i recently bought this 2002 honda civic, and seeing as the owner said it only needed a new windshield, rear strut, rear brakes, and new front tires, it wasn't a bad deal. I never got time to fix anything before I went on vacation for 2 weeks. It's been parked in the garage the entire time I was away, but when i went to start it up and pull it out it wouldn't move. It started perfectly fine, i took the E-brake off, but it wouldn't move unless I revved it to around 4-5k rpm, and even then it wouldn't go more than an inch.
So I put it in neutral to see if i could push it. it only moved when i got it rocking pretty good, but that's when i noticed the right rear tire had skidded the whole way. When i first got it i did notice a slight grinding type sound coming from the rear every time the car moved, but I didn't pay too much attention to it seeing as the car wasn't leaving the driveway for awhile anyway. Well now its permanently stuck until i find a solution.
Nissan - Altima :: 2000 - Check Engine Light Has Been On
I have a Nissan Altima 2000 with about 98,000 miles. The "check engine" light has been on. This happened once before and eventually the light went off, but now it is on again. I read the manual and it said that the gas cap isn't on tight enough. Checked that and it is fine - but the light never went off. Should I bring it in to a mechanic?
View 5 RepliesMazda - Protege :: 1992 - Check Engine Light Coming On - Rough And Sputter
I drive a 1992 Mazda Protege. Recently had an oil change and put in new air filter. Recently the check engine light has been coming on. Sometimes it will run rough and sputter a bit when the light flips on and then runs normal after the light flips off, sometimes it seems to run fine when the light comes on, but the light does go off and the car runs fine after it has been running for a few minutes. Shortly before I had my air filter and oil changed I did have an incident at a stop light where the car died and did not restart for a full five minutes, at which point it sputtered for a bit and then got me home.
I took into the local mazda service center and dealer (they were the only ones who had the right kind of connector to pull the error of a car this old), and they said the only code coming up was a p69 which indicated a bad thermoswitch. I have already paid for it but the parts won't be in until Saturday. I have until then to cancel the repair and just pay restock and the original diagnostic fees. Should I go through with this repair, or do the symptoms described indicate something else?
Mercedes-benz - C-class :: 1996 Won't Start - Vacuum In Gas Tank
Yesterday my 1996 Mercedes C220 would not start. It cranked like crazy but would not fire. Some things I suspect contributed: The gas tank was below 1/4 full. It was cold ... about 25F. The night before I had put 140 lb. of sand in the trunk just before driving it about 15 miles home and parking it. My theory was that because of the weight of the sand and the low gas level, gas was not able to get to the fuel pump.
So this morning I was going to put in a couple gallons of gas from my garage gas can. When I opened the gas cap there was a serious whoosh of air into the tank; there had been a substantial vacuum inside the tank. I put the cap back on, without adding any gas (the sand was still in the trunk), and the car started right up. Here's my question(s):
1) Did the sand contribute in any way to the problem?;
2) Did the low gas level contribute?;
3) Did the cold weather contribute?;
4) Do I have a mechanical problem I need to take care of?
Saturn - Sl2 :: Transmission Thumping Heavily When Shifting Gears
I have a 2002 Saturn SL2 (automatic). A few days ago it abruptly started thumping pretty heavily when shifting gears, especially going into reverse and 4th (or possibly 5th) gear. A couple mechanics told me the transmission is going, and that it would need to be replaced (but it would cost more than the car is worth. One said that we could try replacing the computer that controls the transmission, but it would cost ~$300, and might not do any good. Another said to try Lucas Transmission Fix. I've seen mixed reviews of it online, so I'm wary. Is it a good product, or does it just briefly mask the problem? Also, I looked under the hood, and cannot tell where I would even put it.
View 12 RepliesPorsche - 944 :: 1987 - Won't Stay Running?
My car sometimes runs like a dream and then abruptly will lose power, act like it's not getting fuel, not respond to the accelerator and sputter and buck. My mechanic has rebuilt the fuel pump, cleaned fuel filter, cleaned out tank, replaced hoses. He's familiar with Porsche engines and I know he's not blowing smoke up my nose, so to speak. He's tried everything he can think of. I never know when it's going to act up. It will run smoothly, I will drive it hard, drive it slow and easy, corner hard, not hard, and it sometimes stays happy, sometimes decides it doesn't want to run. It improves when clutch is pushed in, acts like it wants to respond, then after I let the clutch out and apply gas, it starts to buck and there's no power. Haven't been able to get it out of first when it does that.
View 6 RepliesStarting - Ford - Electrical-wiring - Engines - Noises :: Car Has No Power
1996 ford explorer xlt 4.0. One day it worked fine the next day it would not start. When I turn the key there are no dash lights or exterior lights, nothing. There is also no crank over no noise of any kind. I checked all my fuses, I had one in my power distributer. It was for my premium sound, amplifier ect. I cant check the relays I don't have the correct tools. I was thinking maybe the pcm relay has gone bad? I tried jumping the car as well and nothing happened at all either.
View 19 RepliesNissan - Misfire :: 2011 Rogue Lurching On Highway Usually Around 50 - 60 Mph
I have a 2011 Nissan Rogue that has lurched (or misfired?) about a handful of times. It only does it at highway speeds shortly after I've merged onto the highway, usually around 50-60mph. There is a loud thunk and it feels, for about a split second, that the car has stalled out. No warning lights come on, RPMs don't rev, and car resumes driving just fine after and hasn't yet repeated it on the same drive. It is very cold where we are, but the highway is at least 5-10mins from my house, so car usually has warmed up by the time we've gotten there. I've taken it in twice now to be looked at and neither times has it done this on their test drive. The shop yesterday didn't see any diagnostic codes either, so they didn't even know where to begin looking at possible issues...only suggestion was that I bring it in again after it happens again...I know next to nothing about cars, but it surprises me that they won't even check various possible issues to see if anything is out of whack, loose, etc...
View 3 RepliesDakota :: 2005 Dakota SLT Squeaky Noise When Going Over Bumpy Roads
I recently purchased a 2005 Dodge Dakota SLT with 50k on it. The truck is in great condition inside and out. I have noticed depending on certain days, different weather conditions that it will make a squeaky noise when going over the bumpy roads. First thing that came to my mind was the sway bar end links. I purchased them from NAPA and installed them. Still the truck is making this noise. What it can be? Almost sounds like it is in the rear of the truck but hard to actually pin point the location. I have tried with all windows down I cannot tell.
Sound is exactly like this video: [URL] ....
Suzuki - Swift :: Defroster And Heater On - White Vapor Smoke Comes From Vents
I have a 1996 Suzuki Swift. My defroster stopped working several weeks ago.
If I have the defroster and heater on at the same time, white vapor smoke comes from my vents. My heater works fine when I choose the vent option for it to blow directly on me but I can see and smell light blue smoke if I change the vent option to blow on my feet.
In addition a thin white film covers my windows while I'm driving whether I have the heater on or not (and there's a slight oil smell in the car if the heater is on - I do have an oil leak). The thin white film can be wiped from the windows easily at first but becomes more difficult to wipe after 30 minutes or so of driving. Once I turn the car off, the film disappears within 6-8 hours.