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Ford - Escape :: Stalls When Braking - Bad Idle Air Control Valve
I've been having a problem with my car stalling when I brake. It only seems to happen when it's warm outside and I have been running errands and stop for brief periods of time. After about the third stop the car will stall and I have to keep restarting it and keep my foot on the gas. My mechanic seems to think it's the IAC valve. I'm not convinced based on what I've read.
View 7 RepliesDodge - Caravan - Gasoline :: Mileage Has Become Guzzler After 180,000 Miles?
My 2000 Dodge Grand Caravan after many years of good gas mileage has become a guzzler. Has gone from 19 mpg to 10.2 mpg. Have had injectors cleaned, fuel system checked. What else can I have done? I really like this car.
View 19 RepliesOldsmobile - Cutlass Supreme :: 1997 - Gear Shifter Removal?
I spilled coke into the gear shifter. This is causing my car to no longer move from reverse to park, vice versa. I have already removed the center console and can see the shifter, but I have absolutely no clue as to how to remove it from the vehicle and disassemble it so that I can wash it. Any directions for how to do this? Or better yet, a link to some sort of repair manual I can use?
View 1 RepliesFord - Focus :: Stalling Only When Warmed Up
My car stalls when I come to a stop but only in warmer weather (50 degrees or higher) and only after I have driven the car for 20 minutes or so then come to a stop. There is no check engine light on, no high temperature warning. I can start it back up (not a battery problem) easily, but as soon as I take my foot off the gas to put it in drive, it stalls. However, when I've let the engine cool, it's drivable again (until I come to a stop again).
I have taken it in to the repair shop after it has done this twice. Their computer check shows everything working fine and there ar no errors. Of course, by that time, then engine has cooled and they can't reproduce the stalling. I am dreading the upcoming warm weather because it's just a matter of time before I am stranded again. I don't know what to do if I can't get a diagnosis and repair!
Saab - Batteries - 900 :: 1995 Turbo Won't Stay Charged
1995 Saab 900 Turbo. Bought new. Lifetime history of complete battery discharge if not driven at least every 2 weeks. New alternator, multiple batteries of no benefit. Have left on flowmeter for up to 1 week at dealer service center without unusual demand on battery.
View 1 RepliesJeep - Liberty :: 2002 - AC Cools Normally For About 10 Minutes And Then Stops Cooling
At startup, my 2002 Jeep A/C cools normally for about 10 minutes and then stops cooling. It won't cool again until much later, usually not until the next day, and then repeats cooling for about another 10 minutes . Might this be overcharged? I topped it off with gauge last fall.
View 2 RepliesGolf V R32 :: Hard To Downshift Going Into A Turn Or Upshift Coming Out Of Out A Turn
Why the paddles were on the steering wheel or, more specifically, why they'd move along with turning the steering wheel. It sometimes makes it hard to downshift going into a turn or upshifting coming out of out a turn, especially if you don't use the paddles a lot.
well, today, I got to drive one of these and the paddles are in a fixed position. it's MUCH easier to shift knowing where those paddles are at all times when driving faster than you're supposed to. of course I was doing a little spirited driving. downside to that car (only a little) is that it's LOUD. you like the sound of an R?
Bmw - 530i :: Heater Fan Noise Gets Louder When Turn To The Left
My 2006 BMW 530i's heater fan sounds like it has a bad bearing. The noise is similar to that of a leaf hitting a fast moving blade. The noise is intermittent and seems to be worse when the weather is cold. The noise gets louder when I turn to the left and quieter when I turn to the right. When I turn the heater off and restart the noise is often gone.
View 5 RepliesSubaru - Impreza :: 2015 Car With Under 100 Miles Won't Start
My 2015 impreza w/under 100 miles would not start. It turned over but the engine would not engage. The dealership told me the electronics in the car drains the battery and I had to start my car every day. Sounds like garbage to me. I did not drive it for one day and it would not start and it is summer time. What's going to happen in the winter? I have a 1998 Honda with 218K miles that is very reliable but it is not AWD. I cannot believe Subaru would have such fantastic ratings on safety and all weather AWD and be cheap on this problem if it is one. I need a reliable car and that is why I bought a Subaru to get around in all weather conditions and be safe. What good is it if the car won't start? Reminds me of a Nissan I had years ago that would break down frequently when I drove it. I got rid of it at 34K and 3 fuel pumps later.
View 13 RepliesImpala - Chevrolet :: Coolant Temp Fluctuating / Going From 200 Up To 240 Sometimes 260 Degrees
I have a 2002 Chevy Impala with the 3.4L engine. The car has 180K+ miles on the original engine. The coolant temperature started fluctuating recently. Going from 200 degrees up to 240 sometimes 260 degrees.
I recently had the check engine light on with the P0420 code which indicates a bad catalytic converter, I had that replaced and I was hoping that maybe the lack of exhaust flow through the converter was causing the overheating. It is still fluctuating however after the converter replacement.
The coolant temperature seems to go up when the car is idling but when moving it starts to go back down to normal. I had the cooling fan assembly replaced last year after one of the fans failed. These are less than a year old and are both operating as expected.
A little history on the engine. It originally had that crappy DexCool in it that then ate away at the cheap plastic head gasket causing oil to leak into the coolant system. This caused the coolant to turn into 'mud' within the radiator and eventually the head gasket failed completely and I had to have that replaced along with putting in ethylene glycol to replace the DexCool. Now when the coolant system was flushed, I am not completely sure that all that 'mud' was flushed out of the radiator. So the radiator may not be operating at full capacity. In fact, driving through the mountains this summer going up inclines, the car would tend to start overheating.
So thoughts on what might be the issue, radiator, thermostat, sensor, water pump, something else? I'm pretty sure it's not the sensor because sensors don't fail in this manner (they fail either high or low). I'm leaning toward the radiator because once I get some air flow across it, the coolant temp gets back to normal.
Also, the A/C is sometimes working great and blowing really cold and other times it is just slightly cold.