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Stalling - Electrical-wiring - Honda - Batteries :: Stuck On Hills / Mid Dash Lights Not Coming On

Yet again my honda is doing some new. My mid dash lights don't come on at all anymore (even when i start the car), my power drive and winter drive buttons don't work, I can't stop/start on a hill, I have to get 2rpms going to get anywhere, and my battery volts are over 12 when driving.

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Geo - Prizm :: 1991 - Misfire Post Transmission Replacement

I've got a 91 prizm where on a recent roadtrip the transmission went out on the freeway. While driving 75mph, i heard a quick ping sound, then a quick wheel skip followed by the sound of my transmission turning itself into gravel. We had just enough time to get off to the side, but i knew it was done.

I live in San Francisco and don't feel like getting a new car only to get it covered in dings from all the bad drivers around here. So naturally i replaced the transmission in my 22 year old car. yikes. It needs to be stated at this point that the car has run flawlessly it's entire lifetime and I'm the original owner - had no reason to expect otherwise after replacing the transmission.

The shop that changed it was a large shop, AAA recommended and Owner-operated. They told me the transmission was from a car from Japan where transmission replacement is standard. (I did not know this).

Now however, the car has a misfire. No perceivable misfire for the first two minutes she's running, but then constantly misfiring every couple seconds. At stop lights, you can feel the car almost want to stop, but then step on the gas and runs ok, but can still feel the misfire until she gets up to speed. The car runs just a smudge rougher so we believe it's still misfires while at speed, just not noticeable.

Timing belt only has 10,000 miles.
Timing is dead on.
Wires are good, just changed the distributor, coil and plugs. As i understand it, the throttle position sensor is integral to the distributor, so that's new as well.
Fuel pressure is right on.
No warning lights on dash.

At this point, I can't keep throwing money at her. The transmission was 5-6 months of a car payment for a new car. Would there be a reason that the car would have a misfire after getting the transmission replaced?

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Saab - 9-3x :: 2006 - CEL Came On / Idling And Stalling?

I have a 2006 Saab 9-3 Aero that I bought back in August. Two weeks ago, I brought car into the dealership for a 90k road service. It had some idling issues (sometimes, upon starting it up (cold or not), the car would idle and sputter, but never actually die. During the tune up, they said there was a frayed cable, which they replaced.

Fast forward 1.5 weeks later. The check engine light has come on. And the car is now sometimes idling funny just as it was before, only now it actually sputters and actually dies sometimes upon start up. After it initially dies, if I start it up again, it runs fine up on the second start.

Took into the dealership this morning and after 2 hours of diagnosis, they say the check engine read-out is indicating the fuel pump pressure sensor is going out, and that's what's causing it to idle and stall. Is this diagnosis legit?

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Dodge - Stratus :: 1999 - Fuel Gauge Works From Half To Full

1999 Dodge stratus fuel gauge works form Half to Full. Fuel pump replaced and mechanic thinks the BCM is bad. Need to figuring out the issue. Fuel gauge was checked and it gives the correct voltage.

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Mazda - B2200 :: How To Get Blower Fan Motor For AC / Heat To Work Consistently

I was wondering if there may perhaps be a more conventional approach to getting the blower fan motor for the AC/Heat in my 1990 Mazda to work consistently - other than whacking it with my hand or foot? Is there an easy fix for this?

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Chevrolet - Lumina :: 1999 - A/C Manifold Gauge Readings Fluctuating

The A/C on my hand-me-down '99 Lumina has never been outstanding, but has kept the Florida summers at bay. I recently turned it on again (I only ran it once or twice this winter) and the system was empty. I refilled it and it was empty again in 72 hours. I was hoping the seals had just dried out, but it continues to empty after several other attempts to recharge it, including adding 134a with lubricants. I added 134a with UV dye in it and the only leak I found is around the compressor clutch. I accept that the compressor probably has to go, but am puzzled by the manifold gauge readings taken when I added the last can. I just don't want to put in a new compressor and find out that wasn't the only problem.

With the system off, both High and Low sides read just under 70. (Normal Low and High side operating pressures for this car are listed at 42 and 340 respectively.) When the system is turned on, Low drops to 30 and High goes to 80 and there is no air cooling. After 30 seconds the High side slowly climbs to 200 and the Low side slowly drops to 26, with almost no air cooling. When the High side hits 200, it drops back down to 80 and the Low side goes back to 30. After 30-45 seconds it does it again and keeps repeating. The compressor clutch stays engaged the whole time. I looked in the Haynes A/C Techbook as well as online and can't find anything that resembles this description. If this is just symptomatic of a bad compressor, or is there more evil afoot? Also, while I have the system open are there any parts I should replace at the same time given the age of the system?

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Ford - Escort :: 1994 - Vibrates When Stopped

When I am at a complete stop in my 1994 ford escort hatcack sedan 1.9L the car sometimes vibrates not very hard but it is noticeable and goes away when i put it into neutral gets worse with A/C on what is causing this to happen? The car has 123,300 miles on it

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Ford - Wagon - Escort :: 1993 - Loses Power When Trying To Accelerate While Moving At 60mph

This morning on my drive into work I discovered that when trying to accelerate while moving at ~60mph or more the car would shudder and experience a lack of any power at all. If I continued to press down on the accelerator the car would continue to shudder and it would get worse. It felt like an engine stall shudder but constant. If I was below 60mph are tried to accelerate I had no problem, I could continue to accelerate all the way to 70mph, then I would have to slow down for traffic. However after cruising above 60mph and then pressing down on the accelerator I would experience the shuddering. I experienced this issue suddenly with no gradually increasing issues at all.

Car Details:
1993 Ford Escort Wagon LX 1.9L SEF I64K miles
Recently replaced oil, about 2wks ago
Air Filter fine and unobstructed
Car has been getting about 36mpg
Exhaust was replaced about 1 month ago and is unobstructed.

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Kia - Rio :: 2004 - Turns Off And Won't Restart

I have a 2004 kia rio. I just replaced the alternator and got a brand new battery for two days the car ran great besides my stereo not working or over head lights. Then when I was driving home from work i noticed the interior lights started to dim, the check engine light came on, the passenger sea belt light came on and then boom the car just turned right off. I waited a few minutes and tried to restart it and got nothing. I got a jump that lasted a few minutes but the car died again. I've had the battery retested and they say the battery is good. what could be the reason for this happening?

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Volvo - V70 :: Groan In Steering Wheel When In Reverse And Turning - Slight Lag When Starting Off

2001 V70 Volvo Wagon 114k miles... The following in order has been done so far in the last 3 months mostly because the mechanic who did everything besides the mounts takes forever.

Rotors & pads

Replaced axle shaft

Oil & new air filter

Replaced steering wheel pump #1 - with new liquids

Replaced steering wheel pump #1 with #2

Replaced steering wheel pump #2 with #3

Supposedly checked the rack & pinion

New hoses for the steering wheel pump

Alternator replaced

All front, right and rear engine mounts have been replaced

I am about to literally come out of my skin with the subtle vibration that comes through the steering wheel, seat and floor on the drivers side. When I put my hand on the shifter I don't feel the vibration nor when riding on the passengers side. I have to stay that the car sounds like an old Singer sewing machine too, not the smooth engine sound that I had before all the repair work. There is also a very slight lag when starting off and a grown that comes from under the dash to the right of the steering wheel when in reverse and turning. My regular volvo mechanic says that the car is worn but I should keep it anyway.

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