My family has had this car for a long time. It worked fine for years but in the past year it has had some problems when starting. Sometimes the car starts fine, sometimes it won't start until you re-try a few times, sometimes it won't start and you can try over and over and it never does. When it doesn't start, it doesn't do anything at all, no sound or anything. The battery is not dead, the car has more than half a tank of gas. Recently, the car started fine, but after driving it for a while, we stopped at a stop light.
When we tried to accelerate after the stop, the car died, during the acceleration and a left turn. We got the car going again after trying a few times, but later that same trip, the car died again when accelerating, but this time it was from a slow speed, not a stop and it was while we were driving straight. The car is well taken care of (oil changes, check the oil, do not let it get to under a quarter of a tank, change transmission filter & oil, air filter, brakes, etc.) The timing chain is permanent, stainless steel. We do not drive very much but we are afraid to now that we don't know if it will die while we are driving.
2001 Chevy Venture: Pins to 2nd fan in 4 pin connector burned and melting to connector. Fan seemed to work when wiggling connector. Bypassed connector and now does not work unless A/C is turned on Full Speed. Is connector important? What controls fans? Computer controlled? Seems to be larger gauge wire in one side than the other.
View 2 RepliesSo my Nissan emits a loud (way louder than normal) "vroom" when I start it up and then idles back. Also, sometimes the tach needle jumps high and then falls, sometimes almost seems like the car might turn off. I have a knock sensor code on and nothing else. I was due for state inspection and the guy told me that my exhaust was warped and said that it was too loud and I will fail the inspection (I think he meant on the noise level as he did not do any diagnostics.
View 1 RepliesI have a 2007 dodge Dakota with 112K miles. At 105K I had the front brake rotors and pads replaced. The rear brakes were fine. There was a problem with one of the rotors and I returned a week or two later and one, which was warped, was replaced. Ever since that second visit I have had an intermittent vibration from the vehicle. When I brake the whole truck vibrates. And by vibrating, I mean some pretty heavy shaking. It is not the steering wheel vibrating. I took this back to the mechanic where they were unable to find any issues with the brakes. Also, we could not (of course) re-create the issue while it was in the shop. I have not been able to find the pattern. It happens when I am braking at high speeds, but not every time. It also happens at lower speed, but again, not every time.
View 2 RepliesHow does one get rid of water spots on the windshield? They were created after going to a car wash. I've tried alcohol, viniger, windex etc - no luck - spots still there.
View 6 RepliesMy Subaru started making a noise that the mechanic can't seem to identify - I hear it when the car is in gear and moving only - it's like a humming noise that increases in frequency as the car goes faster and winds down as I approach a stop - it totally stops if the car is not moving even though the engine is running. It doesn't sound like it's coming from the tires. It's a noise that I feel like I've heard coming from a K car or a Chrysler or something. It's not a rattling but rather changes regularly with acceleration/deceleration. I was thinking it might have something to do with the turbo. The car seems a little sluggish (more than lag in the turbo, maybe?)
View 6 RepliesMy son has a 2000 Eclipse which is making a horrible noise. Some say it is the lifters, some say it is a rod. Sounds like an airplane engine. The oil was not that low, maybe two quarts when we checked. He wants to sell it for 2000.00. Do you think it could be repaired and then sold? Do they have a problem common with this sound?
View 3 RepliesAfter some off-roading and hit some pretty big bumps at speed, and now my steering wheel is about 15 degrees off, but the car is not pulling.
I am in another country where I don't speak the language well, so what should be done to fix this. I took it into the shop, and they pulled the car onto some electronic sensors and said the alignment was fine. They did a very visual inspection (glance?) under the car as well, and were ready to send me on my way.
I showed them that the steering wheel was off, and their solution was to just take off the wheel and put it back on straight. Is this what should be done to fix this problem? I do believe the alignment of the cars is okay because it's driving fine, but I'm still not sure if there is something else going on that caused the steering wheel to be knocked out of line. I've been doing some online searching and I'm not so sure that they are doing the right thing.
Have a 2002 Yukon 5.3 ltr engine (155K miles) that likes to cut off at highway speeds. Usually happens after 4 or 5 hours of running at 70 to 80 mph. Strangely if I set the cruise control and do the same speeds, nothing... When it happens I end up coasting to the side at the roadway and sitting there for 15 or 20 minutes and it'll start right up and usually go the rest of the way. I've talked to a couple repair shops and they have checked service bulletins and have never been able to find anything. Will be driving to Connecticut for the 4th and not looking forward to being on 95 with the possibility of this happening again.
View 2 RepliesI keep getting this code even after fixing hoses with leaks. I am guilty of over filling my gas tank all the time can this have damaged the vapor canister on my 2001 dodge caravan....
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