I'm the original owner of a '92 Integra (~130K miles) and I have an intermittent squeal when turning, which sounds like rubber against metal in the front of the car (maybe even from the steering wheel). It happens only when turning, and only at certain positions of the steering wheel during any particular occurrence. It is speed independent but velocity dependent: it can happen on an on- or off-ramp at 50mph or turning into my driveway at <10mph, and if I move the wheel a little either way it will go away but return when I move the steering wheel back to the "squeal" position. It might happen one day but not the next day. I actually was able to reproduce this for my mechanic, but they found nothing and said the front end looks good. The tie rods were replaced at ~100K miles, and the engine mounts were replaced at ~120K miles; I got new tires at ~110K miles; the squeal doesn't seem to correspond with any of these repairs/replacements. What is going on that could be checked out.
View 1 RepliesSo my honda 95 civic 1.5 engine is stalling out I think that it is my transmission so Im going to check that out in the morning my question is how much do I put in I watched a video on how to do it, do I need to put 3 quarts of the fluid in it or can I sneak by with just 2 quarts.
View 2 Replies1999 ford 4x4 ranger,auto trans and abs. My pick up would not move in either drive or reverse until i gave it a lot of gas. then after a loud clunk sound from underneath, it took off and drove normally. my mechanic said if the tranny is a quart low it will do that. i checked the fluid and it has too much fluid
View 4 RepliesI have a Mazda MX3 V6 it's a 1994, anyways the cars starts and runs fine, you can rev it up and it don't stall sputter or anything, but as soon as you put it in gear it dies, just seeing what may be going on with it. Also I just put a new IAC vavle on the car. don't think that has anything to do with it, but this is the 1st time I have ever worked on a mazda, and just as a side note, the car ran good for about 2 days after the install of the IAC.
View 2 RepliesOn any type of road (flat, incline, decline) when I hit 45 mph, the transmission seems to hesitate about which gear to pick. You can hear a rumbling sound (not loud) when this is occurring. Furthermore, I notice that the RPMs fluctuate up and down by about 200-300. I have brought the vehicle to several mechanics. One mechanic suggests that it's the u-joint since it has a small flat spot. Another mechanic thinks a software upgrade is needed. The trans was recently flushed and the issue still persists. I tried looking up any service bulletins and did come across SB 06-062, which addresses a 4th gear issue on 2006 Ridgelines.
View 3 RepliesI've got a 1997 Honda CRV. Recently when you start it up in the morning there is a terrible clatter coming from the engine. Yet, once the car warms up, the clatter totally subsides and the car runs and drives normally. Turn the car off and then start it again, the clatter comes back - but then in a minute or so the clatter is gone and all is well. I've checked the fan area and belts - nothing is caught in there. Seems like the sound is coming more from the engine. Can't figure it out. By the way - did I mention that the car now has 338,000 miles on the odometer? Other than that, the car runs fine. Is it time to give up the ghost?
View 2 RepliesFor three years now my 2001 Jeep Grand Cherokee Laredo will whistle. Usually when the engine is cold. When the vehicle is idling in the driveway or at stoplights, whenever I take my foot off the accelerator it will whistle too. The only time it won't whistle is when the gas pedal is being pressed. I've had it to a number of different shops to be serviced but once the car is inside or the engine is warmed it will never whistle for the mechanic looking at the vehicle. I've been told that it could be related to the IAC motor.
View 3 RepliesMy Dads 92 Volvo's engine is making a knocking noise and I'm wondering what the possible causes are. He doesn't take that great care of it but it didn't over heat or anything. It sounds like it is making a loud knocking or clicking noise directly from the engine when you accelerate. It still runs but definitely has a lack of power.
View 6 RepliesI have a 2001 Toyota Camry, Manual, with about 190,000 miles on it and I am having 2 issues that may or (more likely) may not have anything to do with one another.
1) I am experiencing really high (over 3k) RPMs at the lowers speeds in each gear right after I shift, especially in 5th gear. After a few seconds, if I back my foot off the gas, the RPMs drop down to a normal level and increase at a normal speed. Several other people have posted this and supposedly this car might lock me out of overdrive if its cool, but I have a manual, could this be my problem? Also it happens at least sometimes in lower gears as well, it does seem like the car is staying in a lower gear rather than changing when I change it.
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2) My car has gotten really loud, its not a weird noise, just kind of a vrooming type sound, however it is coming from the back of my car (maybe more on the right) when I turn left the sound gets louder and when I turn right the sound goes completely away.
I have a 5 speed 99 Jeep Wrangler and when the car is running, it's extremely hard to put the car into first gear from a standstill. However, once it's in gear, shifting is fairly normal but still offers a little resistance. I feel like I have to wiggle it into gear. When putting the car in reverse from a standstill, the gears grind terribly.
Once the car is off, shifting is still difficult until I put it in reverse. Somehow, this "fixes" the problem and everything shifts smooth as a dream until I start the engine and then it's a 50/50 shot until it eventually fails later on.