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Nissan - Xterra :: 2000 Stalls And Now Won't Restart
I have a 2000 Nissan Xterra. About a month ago it stalled while I was backing out of a parking spot. When I turned the key, the engine turned over but wouldn't start. A few minutes later it started and I drove it on a long road trip. It was fine until today when it stalled when my husband was going around a corner. He waited a few minutes then it started. Now tonight he started it, drove down the block and it stalled again. This time it won't restart.
View 1 RepliesBuick - Lacrosse :: 2010 - Keyless Won't Start?
For the 3rd time, my stepmom's car is in the shop because it won't start. They said it needed to be reprogrammed, but that didn't work. They seem clueless; if she ever gets the car back, she'll be afraid to drive it.
View 11 RepliesFord - Contour :: 1999 SVT - Hazard Lights Flash While Driving
I have a 99 contour svt and every once in a while the hazard lights will flash even while I'm driving.
View 1 RepliesFord - Ranger :: 2002 - Transmission Damaged By Changing Clutch?
if a 2002 4x2 ford ranger was towed into a shop because the clutch failed is there anyway the #2 syncro or anyother internal part of the transmission could be damaged while the service department repalced the clutch?
View 1 RepliesHyundai - Genesis :: Oil Leaking Into Inter Cooler Piping?
I have been spending a lot of time and money on creating my dream car. I like to go fast so there for I bought a car with a turbo. The thing about turbos is that they also make bigger ones. And so I proceed in upgrading the necessary components to support such an endeavor while simultaneously catching fire to my wallet. No regrets. So far.
Turbo was installed along with the reprogrammed ecu and upgraded fuel injectors come to find out my car is running extremely rich. After trouble shooting and looking back on the parameters the ecu was set we figured out the fuel injectors we installed were too big. Fixed that checked for boost leaks. Car is running much better. Until right before I get home as I'm pulling up to my house I suddenly heard a pop and I've lost boost. Look under the hood and find the vacuum hose has bursted off the solenoid nipple going to the waste gate. Also my turbo pressure blow off valve located on the charge pipe entering the throttle body has apparently been shooting oil as it releases said pressure which has shot out between the crack of my hood onto the top of my hood and my front bumper.
I take off the charge pipes from my intercooler and find out that there is oil, more than usual collected all throughout the charge system coming from the turbo. The is also oil coming from the breather and ventilation system and the breather valve on the waste gate solenoid. Hoping it is not a oil seal leak on my new turbo I then change out my PVC valve and clean up as much oil as I can. I have just fixed the vacuum line and replace the PVC valve and started the car to find there's still oil going through the system.
Could this just between the remaining oil still trapped in the system and that I have found the source of the leak? Or could this truly be a sealant leak in the turbo charger which i'm still wavering on whether or not it is possible considering from what I understand if there was a leak in the seal it would run through oil courts at a time leaving my engine to start and then lock up. Or could there be something internally wrong with my engine such as something wrong with the camshaft? I'm pretty sure my catalytic converter is clogged because all of the carbon building up from it running so rich and probably from all the oil coming out of it possibly. I don't know how worried I really should be.
Lincoln - Gasoline - Ls :: 2001 - Hard Start / Fuel System?
I have a 2001 Lincoln LS V8 that runs rich and no one can solve the problem that's been going on for close to a year. The fuel sys pressure tests fine. The fuel regulator sensor has been replaced. First start in morning is normal but after that I need to give it gas to get it to turn over. Also, car has a fuel smell.
View 8 RepliesHyundai - Belts - Accent :: Constant Squeal Which Remains Throughout Entire Ride
2001 Accent 1.6, A/T. Just replaced alternator myself. Checked and adjusted all three belts; all seem tight. Now I have a belt squeal. P/S fluid is full. When car starts there is no squeal. 15 seconds later chirp starts. A few seconds later squeal is constant and remains throughout entire ride - except when I make a turn. During any turn squeal goes away, then comes right back.
View 8 RepliesMazda - Mazda6 :: When Step On Brake Pedal It Resists For A Quick Moment Then Collapse And Go To The Floor
I have a 2010 Mazda 6 with an unusual issue. When I step on the brake pedal it resists for a quick moment then seems to "collapse" and go to the floor. The resulting braking is affected, but almost unnoticeable. When I quickly release the pedal and re-apply pressure the pedal doesn't quite "collapse" as bad, but still is not as resistant as it normally is. I have taken it to the dealership three times for this issue and they can find nothing wrong with the car, the brake pedal or brake systems. It doesn't happen all the time and is not weather or outside elements specific.
View 4 RepliesToyota - Venza :: A/C Malfunction - Won't Work Intermittently
Sadly I own a 2010 Toyota Venza. For about 3 months(since May) I have been having problems with the air conditioner and front defroster. It works intermittently. Sometimes it will work for 3 days straight. Sometimes it will stop working while driving(it will blow hot air), but most of the time if I am driving and it works it will keep working for the whole ride. If I need to restart the car after a short stop it tends to fail, and then the next morning is a crap shoot.
It seems to work better when it is hot out, but not always. I had a front end collision in November, and had the condenser replaced and the system recharged. The defrost worked fine all through the winter. Since May I have had the system recharged 2 times. the second time with dye in it (no leak). I was told to change the condenser valve (150.00), and then I was told that was not the problem, and that I needed to change the compressor ($2,000.00 for the part alone). The compressor seems to work.
Jeep - Electrical-wiring - Cherokee :: 1996 - Headlights Switch Off Unexpectedly
The problem is that my headlights on my 1996 Cherokee Jeep XJ switch off unexpectedly. I can get them to come back on for extended periods by fiddling with the control knob in certain ways. This is the kind where you pull out of the knob to turn the lights on, and can rotate the knob to brighten or dim the dash.
If I pull a bit harder on the knob, the lights come on; if I twist this way just so, then off they go; that sort of thing. The fuses are fine and the contacts in the fuse box are clean. High beams work great no matter what (these are controlled from the steering column). I think the problem is at the control knob.
Now, how can I keep my headlights on when I turn them on every time without having to fight the gremlins? I think my next move is to remove the bezels and so on as best I can and get in there with some proper contact cleaner to see it's just built up gunk causing havoc. If that fails, or if that's a bad idea, what's next?