I have a '95 Chevy Caprice Classic 4.3L Sedan, and it cranks but does not start.This started happening after about a year of the car just sitting in the driveway. Before she sat for that year, she ran just fine.
I am under the impression that the problem is the fuel pump, it is NOT running when the ignition key is turned to the "on" position,this is very confusing because a volt meter placed on the connectors going directly into the pump motor shows 12+ Volts when the key is turned, for about 2 seconds, as it should, however the pump motor does not run. Also, I have already replaced the pump relay AND the entire pump assembly (though the pump I used as a replacement was also pulled from a junkyard vehicle).
The MOST confusing part is, when either of the fuel pump motors that I have are plugged directly into the car battery, they run just fine.
Ok, so I started the car this morning and there was a whining sound that sounds like winding of gears, It changed in pitch along with RPMs and when the car was in neutral (it's a stick) and the clutch not engaged, it was still there with pitch appropriate for idle RMPs. Later, when the car warmed up, the whine disappeared.
View 13 RepliesLast week I drove my 2007 Honda Odyssey with about 100k on a 4 hour trek in the cold, and all of the sudden the heat stopped working. The fans were blowing, but warm air was not coming out. It was Christmas eve and nothing I could really do about it, so let it be. Drove another 10 minutes that night with no heat to my destination, and many hours later still Christmas eve I drove another 15 minutes. Heat didn't work, but car operated just fine.
Christmas day, drove the car for about 20 minutes with no heat, and all of the sudden the temperature gauge skyrockets, and the engine light goes on, the car is clearly overheating (could smell smoke from the engine). Let the car cool for the rest of the day, check it and there is no coolant at all. Had a local mechanic check some other things like the thermostat but found nothing, so refilled the coolant, and drove 4 hours again with no problems--heat works and everything. I was expecting to have to stop all the time to refill the coolant, but didn't have to because it never leaked on the entire trip. I took the car to the Honda dealer and they check it and find no leaks and nothing else wrong with the car, and offer no explanation on how the coolant magically disappeared, only confirming that they cleaned coolant which had leaked/spilled all over. The only possible explanation was that I had some work done on the car a few months ago (new belts) and the mechanic I used didn't flush the coolant properly.
I'm having two slightly strange issues with a 2007 Nissan Altima 2.5S...
First, after driving for about 30 minutes on warmer/hot days (above 85 degrees) the temperature gauge starts rising and then the A/C starts blowing out hot air for a while. After a minute or two the temp gauge goes back down and the A/C goes cool again. The only reason I bring it up is this something new that has never happened before, even in the hottest summers and it only happens when it over 85/87 degrees.
Second issue is a bit stranger... After driving for 20-30 minutes the car will start "jumping". It feels like the engine loses a cylinder and then it kicks back on. It almost feels like the car is stuttering, if that makes any sense. This happens intermittently and only after driving for a slightly extended period of time. It also seems to be independent of the speed at which I am traveling. I took it to the Nissan dealer and they said they couldn't reproduce the problem and couldn't really look into anything because the Check Engine light was not on, so they had no code to go by, or something to that effect.
I own a 2005 volvo s40 i5. Recently I noticed that my dashboard gets extremely hot after just couple minutes of driving. Originally I thought this has something to do with the car's black interior. However, my suspicion changed when I noticed that the dashboard became very hot even on cold rainy days. (Below 60 degrees) This presented couple issues while driving.
1) On cold days, my windshield would fog up very easily.
2) on hot days, the cabin of the car can be intolerably hot. Both of my check engine light and my airbag warning lights are on.
However, auto mechanics cannot diagnose the problem because they can't get a reading through the diagnostic scanner. They said most likely the car has a electrical short somewhere.
What the problem is? Could it be an electrical short that cause excessive heat in the dash? Maybe the engine heat is venting into the dashboard? Fix?
My trusted Volvo mechanic can't figure this out. Shortly after starting my car, there is a clacking noise that seems to be coming from an area near the glove compartment. It lasts for several minutes and then stops. There doesn't seem to be anything wrong with the car. I've had it serviced, but can't figure out what causes this noise.
View 2 RepliesExactly where to look to locate my evaporative purge control valve on my 1999 VW GTI AEG 2.0 non turbo engine?
View 11 RepliesMy 2003 Dodge Neon started overheating. We replaced the thermostat, temperature sending unit, flushed the radiator, checked for blockages, cleaned the radiator, changed the head gasket and water pump.It can run for about 10-15 minutes driving or 30 minutes idling before it overheats. The fans will kick on. The thermostat opens up. Pressure builds up on the radiator hose. When it gets hot, it boils back into the reservoir.I've been careful not to let it get into the red since the head gasket change.We sent the head off and had it planed.
View 9 RepliesI recently bought a 2005 Chevy Trailblazer LS EXT 4.2l 6cyl with about 129k miles on it. The vehicle is excellent condition and has no leaks on the engine or transmission. I took it for a test drive before buying for about 20min and no issues with it shift or rough idling.
After having the SUV for about a week, I noticed that it has a slight rough idle at red lights and gets a little worse when the AC is on. Twice now in the past week the SUV begins to sputter at the red light and then shuts off. It doesn't do this every time and I have noticed it happens more when the fuel gauge is in between the quarter tank E line. My father in-law is having a similar issue with his 2003 Trailblazer, same engine and make and model.
I should also mention that no check engine light comes on or leave an ERR code.
Throttle body needs to be cleaned: We have done this on my father in-laws and didn't fix the issue.
Replaced the spark plugs: didn't solve the issue
Read that it could possibly be the APPS sensor under the gas pedal: Haven't replaced this yet
Tighten or replace gas cap: Have done this, didn't fix
Have the idle reprogrammed: Have not done yet.
Could possibly be a fuel pump issue.
Last year my car popped up with the SERVICE ENGINE SOON light. I am cheap so I went out and bought a code reader- code 1443 came up. Online I found this information: 1443-Evaporative Emission Control System - Vacuum System - Purge Control Solenoid or Purge Control Valve fault. I bought something from Ford for $81, erased the code and it came back on a week later. I just kept erasing it. It quit coming back on in November so I figured the bulb had burned out but the Light came on when I started the car. So I just ignored it. Now that the weather has warmed up again the light comes back on with the same code. Other question. Are there any modern cars that are as easy to work on as, say, a 68 Falcon? Or even a 74 Pinto? I don't expect real ease I just want to be able to stick my hand in the engine compartment with a blood sacrifice.
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