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Ford - Explorer :: 1998 Running Rough And Sound Louder Than Normal
I have a 98 ford explorer just changed the alternator and now its running rough also it sounds louder than normal from the muffler. I am clueless, what the problem can be?
View 7 RepliesBmw - 740 :: Windshield Wipers Will Not Turn Off
Wipers will not turn off unless the car is turned off?
View 9 RepliesHonda - Accord :: 2000 - Stripped The Hole Of Transmission Drain?
2000 honda accord automatic, 4 cylinder. As I unscrew the drain plug of the transmission, i stripped about 2/3 of the hole threads. the bolt threads are OK. what are my choices to fix it? i do not believe there is room to "tap and die" (?). I visited locan NAPA and they suggested me using 2 liquid epoxy. what i am thinking to do first is to use the liquid gasket surrounding my bolt, bolt them in using the remaining 1/3 of the hole thread. Let is sit and cured. it will work?
View 8 RepliesDodge - Dakota - Transmissions :: Not Shifting Out Of First Gear Correctly
I have a 2002 Dodge Dakota with 130,000 miles on it, 360 engine, automatic transmission, and I am the original owner. About three months ago it started not shifting out of first gear correctly. I can bring the speed up to 30 mph and let up on the accelerator and then it will shift up. Once it is going it shifts back and forth in the upper gears and I can override the overdrive just fine. I have towed a trailer during this time and the transmission is as strong as before. I have the oil and filter changed as per the owners manual. Years ago the owner of our local dealer and I had a dispute over the warranty on the front brakes locking up and he asked me not to darken his door ever again so I have obliged him and would rather not change this arrangement. The shop I have used for years cannot find any problem and no codes show up on the computer.
View 3 RepliesCivic - Honda :: 1999 - Won't Start After Driven A Bit
My 1999 Civic, manual trans, 127k, 1.6 4 cyl, has problems starting if the car has been sitting for more than 1 hour. For example, if I go to store for 5 min and start the car, it starts up instantly. Car drives fine and when I "Floor it" Peddle to the floor, i have all the power there. Its just when i start the car after 1 hour of sitting, or over night, it takes a good 5-10 seconds of cranking to start. What could be wrong?
View 7 RepliesBuick - Century :: 2000 - Windshield Wipers Won't Working Properly
I have a 2000 Buick Century. The wiper controls are all goofy. The delay seldom ever works, just goes into slow steady speed most of the time. And they go through several more cycles when wipers are shut off. No doubt some entire multifunction module will have to be replaced.
View 8 RepliesTacoma :: 99 - Truck Radio Quit And Then Power Windows Won't Work
Driving home today the truck's radio quit, then the power windows would not work. Dome light would not come on and truck started running poorly. Over a period of ten miles it went from running normal to creeping along just above idle (1200 rpm or so). Then it quit completely. Did not have enough juice to start. Checked battery voltage ~13volts. About an hour after it quit it started and act like nothing was wrong. What do you all think might have caused this?
View 2 RepliesDodge - Engines - Timing-belts - Pump - Neon - Belts :: 1995 - Squeaking Noise - Blown Timing Belt?
I've got my sister's 1995 Dodge Neon with the 2.0L SOHC. While driving it recently I heard a horrible squeaking noise then a ZZZZZZzzzzzz sound. I immediately pulled over. The check engine light came on, and I shut the car off. Coolant was all over the place leading me to believe the water pump failed. I had it towed to my house, and now I will have it towed to the shop to get fixed. I would like to have them repair the timing belt and water pump. However, I am afraid that the valves were beaten to a pulp and now I will need a new engine. I was only going 35 mph when it happened. What are the odds that my valves were smashed up, and is there anything I can do to check them before I pay for a timing belt/water pump repair?
View 19 RepliesVolvo - 240 :: 1990 Wagon Sounds Like A Cat In A Tunnel When Turning Right And Accelerating At The Same Time
It sounds like a huge, happy cat in a tunnel when turning right and accelerating at the same time. It's an echoing whirring/purring sort of sound. What it could be? It also clunks in the rear with slight vibration. Could this be caused by an issue with the rear suspension or the engine mounts or something else?
Also, the locks seem to be possessed. When I try to unlock all the doors by pulling up on the driver's lock, the rest of the doors either unlock perfectly or lock harder, i.e.,all the passenger locks slam down and cannot be retracted. Sometimes the locks will either lock and unlock or lock and lock harder on their own while I'm driving.
Stalling - Ford - Focus :: Rough Idle / Shaking When Gets Under 1000 RPMs
I have a 2008 Ford Focus - 4 Door Sedan SE 60300 miles.
I've gone to 3 mechanics now and no one can seem to figure out whats wrong with my car. Here's whats happening:
About 1 1/2 years ago I took my car to get an oil change at Jiffy Lube (Yeah never again). When I left, my car was idling funny... Silly me didn't take it right back and have them tell me what was wrong.. so I let it go, well about a month later it started idling even weirder. Basically it feels like my car is shaking when it gets under 1000 RPM and I notice my RPM dial start falling and bouncing back, acting like its going to stall, but never does. I notice a loss of power when this is happening (on speed up and just accelerating in general). All of this is random, I can't seem to put a pattern to it as to when it happens. One day I'll start it up and everything is perfect... Then I'll shut it off and restart it later, and it starts vibrating and puttering again... No signals as to if its hot/cold or wet/dry, no environmental variables seem to cause it to happen anymore than others. And there is no check engine light on, everything "looks" normal.
What I've had done to it so far is:
Air filter changed / reseated
3 oil changes (keep getting told it will work)
Throttle cleaned
Computer reset for idle sensor data rebuilding
Now I'm told that I need new engine mounts, and that could be the reason for the vibration. I'm thinking that the vibration caused the mounts to wear out, more so than the mounts being the cause. Mainly because I don't see how bad mounts could cause loss in power/bad idling.
What could be wrong?!? Really bugging me and don't want to keep throwing money at it for phantom solutions. Seems like mechanics I go to can't figure it out unless there is a check engine light on with some diagnosis code to tell them exactly whats wrong.