I have noted on my new car that the windows are covered with water spot residues that I can not remove. I washed the car by hand and the deposits remain. I prefer not to return to the dealership for this matter.
View 9 RepliesI have a 2008 Altima coupe SE V6 with a manual transmission and approximately 45,000 miles. Recently, I have been having an issue with cruise control when going uphill. It started that I could not accelerate using the cruise control button going uphill without the cruise control cancelling. If I hit the "resume" button, the cruise control would try and accelerate again and cancel out again. Since I took it in earlier this week, the cruise control has been cancelling whenever going up even a relatively modest hill whether I'm accelerating or not, so, whatever the issue is, it appears to be getting worse.
Assuming it was a problem with the cruise control itself (which would presumably be covered under warranty) I took the car to a Nissan dealer. They said that the clutch was wearing out and so the gear was slipping (or something) when the cruise control was trying to accelerate, causing the cruise control to cancel.
I was pretty shocked given that the car only has 45,000 miles on it and I don't grind the gears or ride the clutch. I spend a good bit of time in D.C. area traffic, but even considering that, 45,000 miles?? I did buy the car used, so it's possible that the previous owner did a number on the car in the first 10,000 miles or so, but it still seemed unlikely. I haven't noticed any other symptoms of the clutch dying except that recently, when I accelerate in 1st gear and am around the engagement point, occasionally there is sort of a metal-on-metal sound; almost like when breaks need new pads or something, but not as high pitched or loud.
Any thoughts on: a) if the issue is really the clutch, and b) if so, why it would cost so much to replace?
2005 Volvo S60 T5, 90,000 miles. The brake pedal depresses almost to the floor. Dealer service has not had a solution to this problem. All brake components are supposedly nominal. Might pedal position sensor be faulty?
View 1 RepliesI spilled coke into the gear shifter. This is causing my car to no longer move from reverse to park, vice versa. I have already removed the center console and can see the shifter, but I have absolutely no clue as to how to remove it from the vehicle and disassemble it so that I can wash it. Any directions for how to do this? Or better yet, a link to some sort of repair manual I can use?
View 1 RepliesMy 2012 Hybrid engine will idle up after releasing the gas. The engine is sufficiently charged when this happens.
View 3 RepliesI have a 2004 Nissan Frontier with V6 non-supercharged engine, 4x4, with manual transmission, 150k miles. For approximately the last 30k miles, I have had a persistent shuddering in the cab when I apply the brakes slowing from about 15 to 0 MPH. It is accompanied by a low humming noise that decreases in pitch as the truck slows down. It only happens when the brakes are warm; about 70+ degrees outside or after I've been slowing down a lot. It does not seem to correspond to engine temperature, only my perceived temperature of the brakes. There is no pedal feedback, and it does not shudder when I stop using only the parking brake. It does not seem to affect stopping distance.
I first tried to fix it by doing a very thorough front/rear brake job - new pads/shoes, new rotors/drums, and repacked front wheel bearings. That had no effect on the problem. I tried rotating the tires and that had no effect. I then did a complete front end job and replaced all the bushings and balljoints via brand new pre-assembled control arm assemblies. I also replaced the tie rod assemblies, sway bar bushings/end links, and had an alignment done. That had no effect.
Based on the repairs I've done, I would assume that it is having to do with the front brakes, but is not warped rotors or anything in the front suspension.
I have a '95 BMW 325. The driver's seat reclined and will not come back up... not digging the gangsta posture or the extra ab workout to sit up straight (luckily I don't have to drive very far at the moment). The motor to go back seems to work (obviously) but makes no noise when the button is pushed to move it back up. What do I have to do to fix this?
View 1 RepliesMy 2002 Ford Ranger (6 cylinder) got three misfires within minutes after leaving the house this morning (#4,5,and 6). There's been 3 solid days of very dense fog and drizzle here, so I know it's the moisture because it was fine until then. My question is, do I replace the plugs AND wires for these three, or can they be saved? I had a tune up 2 years ago, but don't know the brand of plugs that were used...
View 6 RepliesYesterday my 1995 Toyota Corolla (which runs well otherwise) started making the loudest rumbling exhaust sound I've ever heard whenever I stepped on the gas pedal. It also felt like it had trouble accelerating when I would try to get going after a stop. I took it to a mechanic right away, who says it needs a new catalytic converter and resonator pipe.
My boyfriend says this is a repair he could do. He has done some car repair and worked with a mechanic before, so I am considering trusting him on that, but I don't know what types of repairs he's done before and I know he has never worked on this model. What would you take into consideration whether or not it would be safe to attempt this repair at home?
Was having fun in snow in 4WD hi on the dial setting. Doung donuts in parking lot. Heard a loud pop and then the vehicle would not go either forwards or in reverse. Turned dial to 2WD let it disengage from 4WD. Once in 2WD I was able to drive normally. After a while I tried to engage the 4WD again, placed in neutral turned dial to 4WD hi and then shifted to drive. Heard grinding coming from front end and vehicle still would not go forward or in reverse.
View 1 Replies