I have a 2003 Kia Sedona EX with 103k miles on it. It is currently in the shop (KIA Dealership) and I'm being told that I have metal flakes in my oil and excessive sludge in my oil passages. This is causing my oil pressure to come in at 15 PSI instead of the specified 93 PSI. My mechanic has recommended a new engine.
I have only had the vehicle for 9 months and have done regular oil changes in that time.
Is there any hope of cleaning out the sludge? If yes, what do you recommend?Can I do successive short-mile oil changes?Can I use SeaFoam or some other product to clear it?Did I just happen to buy a car that hadn't been taken care of very well and now I really do need a new engine?
I've already replaced in the last 6 months of the 9 months I've had it:
Tires (Less than 10k miles on them)
Front & Rear brakes (whole thing)
Water Pump/Timing Belt/Serpentine/etc
Catalytic Converters - both fronts and the rear (just last week!!!)
Our 05 Monterey has this problem at around 45-50mph speeds. At this speed when we step on gas the we feel the vibrations of slow jerking like misfiring and some rough driving experience. This does not occur when cruising around 60/70mph. But if you have to brake and the speed drops below 45, then while accelerating the above problem is experienced. The car also does not accelerate fast enough. The car has around 110k on it. What kind of maintenance does this need? Is it very serious and need repairs right away? It was not a daily driver car, but now has become one (30 miles) for work.
View 8 RepliesRecently, the brakes on my wife's Mazda 3 (5 door, 2.3, 2005, 67k miles, automatic) failed while she was driving slowly in a parking lot. The pedal went all the way to the floor, but the car did not slow down. She used her key to turn off the engine (I've since suggested she use the parking brake instead). The car shuddered (presumably the engine slowing the car?) to a stop. She re-started her car and had some braking power, which returned to normal after a few pumps of the brakes. Since then, the car has been looked at by our usual mechanic and the dealer. Neither can find anything wrong and the brakes have been performing normally.
For it's age, the car is in good condition, has been regularly serviced, and has spent it's entire life in southern California. The only unscheduled maintenance I can recall has been the refurbishment of the electric window switches for the driver's door and some modest body work following a hit and run on the interstate (just dents and scratches). It's only other issues are an occasional rough idle when stopped at a light and harsh shifting from first to second or second to third gear when the car is cold (it's done this "forever," and I've always figured one of the accumulators was a bit sticky). The car was not serviced immediately before the incident. Is the car safe to drive?
Recently my Infiniti G20's turn signals and hazard lights stopped working. I replaced the flasher relay and turn signal switch but it did not solve the problem. Here is the kicker or clue. The lights flash when locking or unlocking the car with the remote FOB.
View 7 RepliesA few days ago, my 2002 Land Rover Discovery ran out of gas. I've never run out of gas before and when I called AAA and found out that it was just a gas problem my relief outweighed any embarrassment I had about the situation. The AAA guy and I filled the car up and poof- I was on my way..... Since then, the check engine light has come on and although the car runs great when it gets going, it's the getting going part that has become tricky. When I turn the key to start the car, it makes a clank clank chug sound. To get it going, I have to step on the gas and turn the key at the same time. If I do that, the car runs as normal and everything is fine.
I read the reviews for mechanics and have an appointment set. Is it possible that because the car was out of gas, that something else got burned up or junk got into the engine? How a car works but I'm imagining a empty tank that is supposed to feed into something and if nothing is there couldn't residue in the tank get sucked into the thing that it is supposed to feed?
I jacked up my car, and found that the two front tires have about 1" to 2" different distance from the ground. Is this a suspension problem? Should I send my car to dealer for inspection?
View 10 RepliesI have a 2007 Honda CRV with about 85k miles. Always had a lot of road noise, but recently my husband and dad road with me and were very concerned about a "womp, womp" noise in the tires. It matches the revolution of the tires, so when I get going fast I don't hear it. I had new tires put on, rotated front to back, and balanced. My husband thinks it's worse. Also had new front brakes (steering wheel shook when I braked at high speeds). I'm at a loss and have spent quite a bit already. Could this be wheel bearings? Tie rod ends? It sounds like the tires but it's definitely not.
View 19 Replies1996 Oldsmobile Silhouette -This happened while I was taking a road trip and is all as highway mileage. When I drive until the tank is near to empty I get 18-19 miles per gallon. When I fill up after going only a hundred or so miles I get more like 25-27 miles per gallon. I have checked my math and even had a friend check it. My road trip was several hundred miles long so I had an opportunity to test this a few times. How this can happen?
View 11 RepliesThe other day I start my car in the garage. Backing out I know the brakes aren’t working normally. Testing in the driveway confirms that there is no power assist to the brakes. The engine is idling properly and there is no CEL or dash brake light lit, but there is non-power braking only. So I put the car back planning to work on it later.
Some two days later I start the car for testing and the brakes are back to normal. I have the usual power assist. There are no other problems.
I have a 2005 Jeep Liberty. It recently started making a noise that I think is most accurately described as a groan/squeal. It only happens at low speed, < 20MPH, and happens more often the lower the speed. It also seems more likely to happen when the vehicle is turning. I haven't noticed any other problems with the car. The brakes and serpentine belt were recently replaced.
The brakes were replaced because they were starting to get old, looked corroded, and were starting to squeal when braking. The serpentine belt was replaced because it had a crack in it and was under warranty after being replaced for the same reason only 10 months ago. I don't believe that the noise is related to the brakes as the noise has occurred many times when the brakes were not being applied and it does not appear to occur any more or less frequently when they are applied