Two months ago, my 2011 Ford Escape (27,000 miles) was sounding great. I took it in for a standard oil change and tire rotation. When I picked it up they mentioned that they found a nail in what is now the passenger-front tire and patched it for me. When I drove it home, I could hear a sound like "whom whom whom whom whom" coming from the front-end between 45 and 60 MPH.
I gave them the benefit of the doubt and drove it for 2 months until yesterday when I finally had enough and took it back to have them look for a cause to the problem. They said it needed an alignment and we went ahead and did that. HOWEVER, they said that after the alignment, the car would make the same sound for 500 to 1000 miles and then it would go away. I got the car back, and at best it sounds the same, and at worst it maybe sounds worse than it did.
My question: Is there any reason the car should make the same sound for 500 to 1000 miles after the alignment? Also, was it an alignment problem or do I need new tires or something else? I suspect I have been screwed by the dealership.
"I have a 2001 XC70 WAGON and is making big noise while moving, bigger the speed bigger the noise, engine in idle and in N (while in speed) the same. Could this be because of tires?
View 2 RepliesI have 234,000 miles on the car, it runs well. starting to have idling problems, if I don't let the car warm up for ten or more minutes it cuts off. The power steering belt is making noise, the dash board is cracked from the sun other then these two issues it runs great. Should I repair these things or should I start looking for a new car?
View 2 RepliesI've got a 2007 Cadillac CTS with the 3.6L engine. The car has begun idling rough when stopped at lights, parked, etc. A few days later, it also began starting reluctantly. The rough idle varies in intensity, but is almost always present. The CEL is not illuminated and the car seems to run fine when not idling.
A few months ago, the car began running like a lawn mower and the check engine light came on. It turned out to be a misfiring cylinder. I had all the plugs replaced along with the ignition coil for that cylinder.
The car ran great for a few months after the repair, but now this rough idle problem has appeared.
A few weeks ago I drove my car straight into a curb and killed the steering column. The car was not drivable. After a discussion with BMW service rep, I obtained a copy of an addendum to the steering and alignment manual that indicates if certain parts were damaged to the suspension then the steering rack MUST be replaced -- despite the fact that there is absolutely NO indication that the part is damaged. My problem is that my insurance company is refusing to pay for the part since it shows no signs of damage and BMW will revoke the warranty on the steering column and attempted to remove themselves from any liability if the steering rack did fail after suspension repairs. I can't consciously drive my car knowing that there is a possibility that the steering rack could go out at any time so I am forced to pay the 2k. Is this fair? Can an auto manufacturer force their customers into a catch-22 like this? It is my understanding that BMW and Mercedes are the only automakers that do this. Not even Ferrari.
View 8 RepliesI have an 2000 lexus RX 300 AWD with an intermittent abs light and clock that will not keep the correct time, a bad ground? No codes.
View 4 RepliesWe have owned a 95 Camry V6 for 20 years and it has always been reliable. However, several days ago, the car started to have its first engine performance issue. When we start the engine cold, there was rough idle/engine lope. If it was warmed up for about 5-10 minutes, the car was fine for the entire day. but during this rough idle, the car jerked slightly as well if i press on the gas.
Since the symptom began, I took it to local shop A and they replaced all the spark plugs, pcv valve and air filter which did not solve the rough idle/looping problem. The rough idle continued, and few days later, I was unable to start the engine though it cranks. (at least that's what I think it does). Had it towed to shop B and they've replaced oil pump, which they thought to be the problem. I took it home, and the next morning I found myself unable to start the car.
Over the last few weeks, I'd been smelling something. Today, I realized it must have been coolant. Today, my 225,000 mile, 2.3L 4cyl 5spd 1990 Camry started blowing smoke. When I parked, and gingerly touched the radiator, it was cool -- and empty. When I squeezed the upper hose, it crackled as if very dry. I drove the car about a mile and parked it at home.
When it cooled, I confirmed the radiator is empty -- except for a lot of reddish crud. A hint of the same reddish color on other engine parts MAY be from coolant spraying under the hood, but I'm not sure.
I couldn't tell from spots on the garage floor whether the coolant had leaked out there or not.
How should I proceed from here to address ... a) the leak, and b) any other damage caused by running the car dry?
My poor 2000 Chevy Monte Carlo SS is turning into a hooptie. Or at least it sounds like one. I am due for a front brake pad change in about a month, so I'm wondering if this new noise has anything to do with it. If not, I certainly hope it's affordable!
And now to the strange noise being emitted from the front of the car. This morning, about 50 degrees, I started my engine to drop my boyfriend off at work. While idling in the parking spot, I heard a dim car horn - fog horn combo noise. A neighbor gave me a "wtf" face, and I'm sure I returned her stare with the same expression. Hoping it was something else, I drove off.
First stop light, just down the block, while idling and waiting for the light to turn green, I hear the same noise. Very embarrassing. Next light I stop at, same noise. Once the car got to half of its optimum temperature, the noise stopped and didn't return.
That is, until several hours later when I needed to go to work and restarted the car from a cool nap. Same noise.
So, what the deal is? I thought it might be fan related, as it kind of sounds like there is some rattling going on in there, too.
2011 Focus 2.0L L4 engine, manual transmission, 70K miles - when up-shifting gears, the throttle remains high, dropping v-e-r-y slowly instead of dropping rapidly when the throttle is released. It is the same when not moving, when the throttle is run up to steady RPM's, then the pedal is released, the RPM's drop slowly. This has started recently, at first I thought it was just 'operator error', and that our shifting skills were deteriorating with age (ours, not the car), but testing has proven the fault lies with the vehicle. I researched sticking throttle issues, and thought I had located the problem as a bad throttle body assembly. Changed it out with a new one, went thru the computer reset procedure,and the problem still exists. No error codes are showing, but the little yellow wrench light is lit on the dash (resets each startup. Vehicle drives fine otherwise, no loss of power, etc.
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