I have a 99 Honda civic LX 4 cyl. There is an oily residue in the coolant reservoir an on the fill tube but when the radiator is opened the coolant is clean. The car is using oil but not running rough or hot. There is no tailpipe smoke or evidence of leakage. I am planning to do a compression check and look at the plugs.
View 5 RepliesMy 2010 Acadia with ~53K miles had a fuel injector go bad. $1,200+ repair bill. I was told by the dealer service agent that when an injector goes bad it usually means it had an open circuit, and that is what happened to mine. Is there a known problem with the injectors? I have 5 more that could potentially fail and I am trying to determine the likelyhood this might happen again.
View 19 RepliesI bought a used 2007 Tacoma truck from a Toyota dealer in July with 53,000 miles. After driving it for 5000 miles, I took it to my local mechanic for an oil change. He, being the good mechanic that he is, checked the air filter. To his surprise, there was no filter element in there! He put one in and told me about his discovery. My question to you is this - how much damage could have been done to the motor in the 5000 miles I drove it without an air filter? I intend to tell the dealer, but first I'd like to know what effects this missing filter could have on the truck so I know how much to ask for from the dealer.
View 13 RepliesThis just started today while driving home from work, not quite sure how to describe the sound, kinda like a mini jack hammer or rocks in a tumbler (attached video with sound). The weird part is: My car runs well aside from the sound, and the sound goes away when actually driving, only occurs when in park, or stopped. [URL]... (under hood) [URL] ..... (under car)
Opened the hood and jacked up the car to try and find the cause of the noise, sounded like it was coming from the engine, or just underneath (there is a box on the underside, not quite sure what it is, but the sound seems to be louder near there).
On a side note, checked my oil, it's not low. And tried playing around with the pipe leading to the exhaust to see if it was lose - nothing.
Was involved in a hit and run just over 2 weeks ago (front left headlight was smashed, and fender was dented). I'm not sure if that has anything to do with whats happening now.
I have had a sudden and usual issue. MY car suddenly would not reverse when I put it in reverse. What was interesting is that there are no weird noises, even the passenger rear mirror moving when we put the shifter in reverse but the car would not reverse.
I was told by a mechanic that it needs the new transmission. With the cost being as much or more than the cost of the car I did not find it worthwhile. I am still able to use the car, Just can't park without being able to go forward or needs to be on a slope. IF it's on even a bit slope it can reverse when I put it in reverse.
After a few days of this happening even the power on the side mirror has gone and moved it to reverse does not trigger the mirror tilting down. I have read about solenoid issues and someone mentioning that it could be that not enough power goes to the solenoid. How can we test this?
Here is a YouTube video showing my erratic RPMs while idling in park, then pressing and releasing the brakes and gas to show what happens each time: [URL] ....
I just bought a 99 Explorer Sport. The history I know is that the truck has 200k+ miles on it, with the engine replaced. Replacement engine has 90k on it.
Was told the fuel pump, and serpentine belt (I think, he said "main belt") were replaced in the last few months.
The car was driving fine on the test drive and for the first few days of owning it. Then a clicking sound started form under the hood while driving.
I first noted the clicking while at a red light, and when I accelerated it stopped. Over the last week it has increased in frequency every day and now is almost constant.
This evening I was coming to a stop with my foot off the gas and when I hit the brakes the RPM went up, and car lurched forward before stopping gently. This kept happening so I drove home and took the above video. Video taken shows the RPMs jumping up when in park and going form idle to idle with brake depressed. when I rev the gas and let go, the RPMs fall, hang for a couple seconds, and then fall back to ~1000. The captions are very accurate, they show exactly when the brake or gas was pressed and when they were let go.
My obvious question would be WHAT IS CAUSING THIS? Also, ARE THE CLICKING AND THE RPMs RELATED? Finally, SHOULD I AVOID DRIVING IT? I need to drive it a few times through the next few days and I can't really avoid it unless it will mean serious damage.
I recently bought a 2009 PT Cruiser which now has 38,000 miles on it. When I sit in idle, at a stop light or anywhere else, the car begins to go through a cycle where it is at about .75 RPMS (On the dial) for about 15econds, then all of a sudden I'll feel my car shake and the RPM's fall to just below .5 and then it shakes again and kicks up to 1 RPM before settling back down to .75. This cycle repeats until I move. Also, after the first "shake" the AC on my car goes out, spitting out warm air until I begin moving again. (Not good in TEXAS heat) This happens EVERY TIME the car goes through this cycle. WHAT IN THE WORLD IS THIS!!??
View 1 RepliesI have a 2001 Ford Focus, lately on occasion, not all the time when I turn the key nothing happens, the car doesn't start. I then turn the key back and forth a few time and turn the wheel a few times and then it start and runs fine and I may not have this happen again for a few weeks or it may happen the next day.
View 11 RepliesThe A/C went out on this 2000 Mercedes drivers side first, and then two weeks later on the passenger side. This seems strange to me. The system has pressure and won't allow any more freon to be added. What is going on? A friend suggested that it could be the expander valve.
View 1 Replies2003 Pontiac Sunfire, 103K miles, a little overdue for an oil change, but no major (or minor) problems before now:
Last Monday my car was running fine until, on my way out of town, I gassed up. Immediately, my car started acting strange: immediately died upon leaving the station, didn't want to start, RPMs all over the place, acceleration & braking weren't responding properly, TERRIBLE idling, difficult handling at higher speeds (>45 mph), check engine light eventually came on, as well as the battery light (for just a minute).
Needless to say, I decided not to go out of town and took the car to a local mechanic (by this time the car was dying regularly and absolutely did not want to start). This morning he told me that I have water in my fuel tank and detailed a draining process that sounds expensive. However, after reading several "water in gas tank" threads on here, I'm skeptical. As a young woman living the in the South, I'm sure you all can understand my suspicion. So, is he giving me the run around? For what it's worth, I do live in southern Louisiana - hot, humid, rains daily - water isn't exactly scarce here.