I purchased a new battery for my 2008 Chevy Equinox and have it installed. After they installed it, my car radio would not turn on at all. The clock on the radio interface had been reset to 12:00 when they disconnected the battery, but I could not reset the clock to the appropriate time after installation. After doing some research, I came up with two scenarios to look into:
-the fuse was damaged;
-or, the removal of the battery triggered a security lock down on the car radio that requires a code to be inputted to make it operable again.
I checked the fuse, and it worked fine. I looked up the security lockdown item in the manual, and it explicitly noted that if this were to be the case, the interface would clearly indicate the word "LOCKED." The interface does not indicate this. The only thing the interface indicates is the time, which is incorrect.
Are there any hypotheses as to why my car radio is now inoperable? And are there any suggested solutions for resolving this?
94 ford ranger, 4.0L OHC, 4x4 5 speed manual 146,000 ....
So the other day I was driving home and i noticed my battery light was coming on each time i stopped at a red light. Soon after it remained on regardless and the voltage gauge started to drop till it hovered right at the "N" in normal but thinking if my alternator had gone i was best to keep driving rather than having to stop and restart the car again. I shut the radio off and made it home. The next day i grabbed my haynes manual and started going through all the tests of the charging system and everything checked out.
The battery had a full 12.8v at rest and when idling showed 14.3, whats going on? The car didn't have a problem starting the next day and the battery, even now another day later, has a solid 12.8 on it so I don't suspect a drain anywhere. The only thing that i notice is when i tested the resistance on the voltage regulator the manual calls for at least 2.4ohms and mine read 4.0ohms, is that normal? Could it just be that my actual gauge is bad and i am getting a false reading? My only other thought here is maybe the drive belt is a little loose and its slipping when the alternator is under load, but I don't hear a squeal and when i measure the deflection between the alternator and powers steering pump i get a little less than a 1/2".
I have an Acura 2000 TL. My car all of a sudden stopped starting. I called AAA and the tow truck driver did some repair like thing. The car started after this. He told me, there was a problem with the remote starter or security alarm issue. After that the car starts but the immobilizer light is completely off. It gives P1607 OBDII code. When I looked under the dash, I saw a black button and pressed on it. It gave some clicks and nothing happened. I pressed on it and turn the ignition switch on and off a couple of times and nothing happened. I pushed on the button while pressing on the brake peddle and released within 2 seconds etc. The car has a Code Alarm remote start with two button fob and it was disabled. I don't know whether the AAA driver enabled it causing the immobilizer bypass to actuate to have the P1607 code. The car starts ! What can I do to get the Code Alarm remote start to disable it?
View 8 RepliesI have an '04 chevy tahoe, only 70k. Very recently the front end of the car has started to shutter while driving. This happens when I am going generally above 45mph- more so going up a hill. It feels a little bit like I am driving over unevenness/ripples in the road- even when it's smooth flat pavement. When I take my foot off the accelerator and just coast the vibration stops. I got new tires put on front so it is not a wheel balance issue. The car does not pull left or right either like out of alignment. And the engine rmp's do not fluctuate/strain when the shuttering starts.
View 5 Replies2004 Ford Focus ZX3. Manual Transmission. Alternator replaced 1-2 years ago for different symptoms/issue.
My problem is that the headlights dim or flash (pulse down to very very dim then back to full) when accelerating or decelerating. Pretty much only when in gear.They will go back to normal when I depress the clutch pedal (usually I think) or am coasting in neutral. The fan in the car and other electrics/indicators seem to suffer from same power fluctuations too.
A little while after seeing this, I noticed a faint then more pronounced clicking coming from left side of dash. (Fuse/relay box?) It seemed to click when the "shift" light would pop on and off about 20% of the time the light did. Otherwise mostly when accel/decel.I started pulling relays and driving around a parking lot to see if it was one. The click seemed to disappear after pulling the horn relay. (And not the "Battery saver" relay next to it. Odd) The clicking issue does not happen all of the time when driving. The power dimming does.
I have a 2011 Nissan Rogue that has lurched (or misfired?) about a handful of times. It only does it at highway speeds shortly after I've merged onto the highway, usually around 50-60mph. There is a loud thunk and it feels, for about a split second, that the car has stalled out. No warning lights come on, RPMs don't rev, and car resumes driving just fine after and hasn't yet repeated it on the same drive. It is very cold where we are, but the highway is at least 5-10mins from my house, so car usually has warmed up by the time we've gotten there. I've taken it in twice now to be looked at and neither times has it done this on their test drive. The shop yesterday didn't see any diagnostic codes either, so they didn't even know where to begin looking at possible issues...only suggestion was that I bring it in again after it happens again...I know next to nothing about cars, but it surprises me that they won't even check various possible issues to see if anything is out of whack, loose, etc...
View 3 RepliesI replaced the fuel pump in my 2001 chevy blazer last year and it just quit again two days ago. Internet research leads me to believe it is a common problem in chevy turcks. Blazer stops running, sits for a few hours to a day and then starts up again. Is it going to happen again and is it really the fuel pump.
View 4 Replies97 olds lss traction control kicks in quite often. turn it off and it doesn't have the problem.
View 5 RepliesMy rear tires (Nokian) on my Subaru Legacy 1999 all wheel drive car are noisy and chopped after only 18,000 miles (tires were in front for 4,000 miles; at that point I had to get two new tires which were put in front). My mechanic does not recommend rotation so they haven't been rotated. No, I don't know why. So now they are chopped but have lots of tread.
View 13 RepliesI have a 94 EB AWD I am restoring and have recently picked up an 88 EB to restore as well. The 88 did not run. Here's a list of things done.. New head gaskets, new fuel pump, full tune up, radiator flush n fill, oil change, new transmission and rear seal, new battery, new iac valve, many new lights etc. Well here's where your expertise may come in.. the van starts and runs fine for the first minute or two, but when stopped at red lights the van wants to stall.. and while idling actually has stalled. I was going to replace the MAP sensor as I have found that sometimes causes idling issues. I assume the 88 does not have the MAF sensor to clean/replace? Any other things I could check before heading to the vaccuum lines? Also, both power mirrors are inop, the horn is inop and the gas gauge reads CO. I will check the fuses for those problems..
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