Xb - Scion :: 2006 - Slow Acceleration Than Usual And Idling Extremely Low
Jul 14, 2013
I've had my Scion xb since 22,000 miles. It's now 127,000 miles and I am having the first big issue.....or maybe. My husband thinks that it's something simple and an easy fix like a relay. We drove it on the highway in the morning and intermittently throughout the day, parked it for 3 hours and then started driving again. Three lights came on VSC, Check Engine, Trac Off and then it started accelerating slower than usual up hills and idling extremely low. We stopped and checked the oil level - at the 1/2 way mark and not due for a change yet. Feels like it might stall - it hasn't yet. It definitely climbs hills much slower than it has in the past but this is nerve-wrecking - especially when there are no mechanics working on the weekend.
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I have a 2004 Hyundai Accent 1.6 DOHC 5-speed Manual Transmission ... so here is my problem;
Regardless of whether I am going from a complete stop or if I am simply changing gears the acceleration is practically non-existent, sometimes taking up to 3 minutes to accelerate just 5 mph. While I am driving at a consistent speed of 65 mph, the RPMs will randomly jump from 3000 to 4000 or 5000 with no apparent cause.
I have been told everything from putting air in the tires to replacing the clutch. I do not have the time nor the money to try every option of fixing this issue. I need to attempt to narrow this down to as few probable causes as possible.
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I have noticed that my car occasionally seems to take off extremely slow from a dead stop? It almost seems as if the traction control is engaging, but I am not taking off fast, and it has also happened at low speeds (10-20 mph)???? It feels like I'm towing a damn boat behind me......
The TSB for the transmission was performed last year sometime.
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I have a 2002 Windstar . It had an issue with low RPM while idling so I've decided to clean the IAC valve and the throttle using a crc throttle body cleaner. I accidentally opened the TPS that clicked. I put it back together and since then I have slow acceleration (I literally press the pedal to the floor and nothing), hard shifting between 1 2 and 3, and it still has low RPM while idling (not as much compared to before tho).
I tried several positions of the TPS because I honestly thought that was the issue but it did not have any effect. At this point I am not sure what to do. I read some person online suggest that it could be a clogged EGR valve.
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2006 Prius 150,000+ miles. Tonight the Master warning light, brake system warning light, and Check engine light all illuminated on dash as well as the Hybrid System warning on the console. The car is idling at almost 40 miles per hour but does not allow any acceleration from the pedal. The engine will rev as if it wants to but no power.
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I have yet another issue with my Hyundai Accent. It seems to me that I hear engine valve knocking. Here tech. details:
- This happens around 1100-2000 rpm.
- The car currently has 11500 KM.
- 3 oil changes so far - using Mobil 1 - 10W30.
- I put in regular gas.
- No mods, only bug guard.
I drive slow - slow acceleration and I noticed sometime ago that there was a knock coming from an engine at about 1400-1700 RPM, however now I can hear it anywhere from 1100 to 2000 rpm. I can hear it very well when I drive along curbs and walls since engine sound bounces off it. I have automatic gear box and therefore I don't know how to test it further ( on manual I would have put some load on the engine by switching into high gear and pressing gas - make engine struggle a bit ). It might be noise from injector but I don't know. Also I don't know if Accent 2010 has self-adjusting valves or not.
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2007 Sonata GLS - I4; 55kmiles ... I plan to sea foam on my Sonata as it continues to have slow acceleration and poor mileage. Looking for a picture of the Brake Booster or Vacuum line? I want to make sure I am pouring it in the right place.
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In 2006 I purchased a 2004 5-speed manual shift Nissan Xterra 4x4 with 19k miles on it, it looked and ran like new.I live in Florida, during the Summer of 2010 I noticed that when I accelerated from a standing start (like at a traffic light) as I shifted through gears 1-4, at some point the RPMs would rev up but the car was accelerating very slow. The only time this doesn't happen is in 5th gear or in 4WD-high or 4WD-Low. This problem is not consistent, it happens occasionally but enough times that I've had to alter the way I accelerate to avoid this problem, ie accelerate very very slowly.
I have taken my Xterra to my local Nissan dealer, twice, they cannot replicate this problem no matter what they do; drive it cold, drive it hot, fast, slow, cold weather, hot weather, no matter, they can't replicate the problem.
I have read here and there on the 'net (we all know the 'net never lies) that the transfer case on 4WD's can act squirrelly or could even be a simple case of replacing the transfer case fluid.
Why this "slippage" is happening and how can it be fixed? This is of concern only because if I have to accelerate hard (like when a locomotive is looking to T-bone me) I'd like the Xterra to get up and go rather than pause and reflect over the lilies of the field while Thomas the train is bearing down on me.
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When I leave my car running, i hear that it has extremely loud engine noise. Nothing dangerous or weird but just Loud idling. It's at 900 RMP. What causes it and how can I achieve a nice pleasant sound ..
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Extremely slow filling gas tank on my 2005 ford falcon
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Recently I brought my car for an oil change. They put the recommended full synthetic oil in and when I left the cel starting blinking and the car idling extremely rough. I brought the car immediately back (only drove ~1/4 mi.). They discovered that they put too much oil in the car. Despite their efforts of removing oil and changing filter x2, they could not get the cel to stop blinking or the car running correctly. I brought the car to the closest repair facility with diagnostic capability and they noted the car was still 1qt overfull and multiple misfire, and cam shaft actuator codes were happening. Car was towed to dealership where they diagnosed fouled plugs attributed to too much oil. Oil change facility paid towing, repair and diagnostic bills for their mistake. In the subsequent 2 weeks my car was towed two more times to dealership. Once for going into limp mode after misfires and once for fuel pump dying. Is this all a coincidence or could this be repercussions from botched oil change? Dealership says it is just coincidental.
Car is a 2007 Mercedes clk350 cabriolet.
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So I noticed when it started getting cold that my Jeep emits this extremely high pitched whistling sound and I can't figure out what's going on. I've taken it to two mechanics and both said it was a belt that needed to be replaced so I had the belt replaced and the noise persisted. I've noticed a few things about the noise, it only happens when it is approximately 30 degrees outside or lower; only while the car is idling (when I accelerate the noise goes away immediately); It only happens after I've gone above approximately 30mph; The noise will go away after I've gone through a series of idling and accelerating; and stops immediately once I turn the car off. The Jeep is almost up to 150,000 miles.
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My brother has a '99.5 with about 130k on it. It's extremely slow to startup even the the starter is spinning it over pretty quickly. I pulled my Edge CTS out of my truck to get some #'s off of his. At idle mine has about 700+ ICP, his has about 480. My IPR is about 14%, his is about 10%. The only other obvious things noticeable is that his oil pressure gauge takes 3+ solid seconds before it comes up. Once it's running, it's seems normal and ICP & IPR match mine under full acceleration. The only other thing that is odd, while cranking his volts drop to mid 10's but isn't turning over slow. Where to start?
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I have a 2009 Scion xD and when I am idling in D or P, my car sounds like a diesel engine. It makes this propeller kind of sound on the driver side and it is worse when I am stopped or idling, but does not go away when I am driving. It has about 76,000 miles and I moved from AZ to CA, not that I think that makes much of a difference, but the high heat in AZ can cause problems for cars. The heater core went out in the fall of last year and I just had all 4 struts replaced. I really don’t want to have to spend too much more on the car to be honest and hope this is just a simple issue.
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My cooling fan races more than it used to. The coolant level appears to be fine. Could it be a faulty sensor and where is it located and is it something I can replace myself? The engine temp gauge reads in the mid range so the system isn't overheating.
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My '06 SC has about 72k miles and I've notice of late after starting it, it initially idles at about 1,200 RPM and tends to stay there until after driving and warmed up and then goes down. It used to start up at 1,200 RPM and after a very brief period of time would settle at 1,000 or 800 RPM, I can't recall exactly. My question is, is this normal related to the life of the engine, or do I have a sensor or other type of issue that can be addressed.
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My 06 Prius seems to be a little louder than usual when the motor is running. What could be going on? Just had the hybrid battery, water pump and belt replaced, but it still seems to be making the same noise.
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Twice now my 2001 Echo has overheated when I was sitting and idling it for an extended time with the air conditioner running. The temperature outside was in the nineties. I'm not sure if that makes a difference. After I let it cool down the first time added coolant and drove it, it didn't happen again until today months later. Is this normal?
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I have a Toyota echo 2001 , manual 4 doors, My question is about when I climb a normal road the engine lose force the I reduced the speed form 4th to 2nd in order to continue my way, It is like the car is towing a truck, It s turns very slow. My question IT IS NORMAL?
The ECU only shows the 0420 Code And I know that It is about the cat because I replaced it for a generic. And the O2 secondary sensor voltage is like a wave.
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Recently my car a 01 echo has been randomly losing power and accelerating slowing. Sometimes if I let off on the gas pedal and reapply it, it clears up and runs fines. There are no check engine lights and no codes stored. car has 213k miles on it.
I had replaced the fuel filter, fuel pump, both o2 sensors and cat, have noticed a break behind the resonator could this be causing it?
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I have a 2002 echo with 168K miles. My car was doing fine but I decided to change the air filter and spark plugs because I had a feeling the person I bought it from hadn't done it. All spark plugs needed to be changed (first 2 were hand loose also). I put in autolite platinum ( I believe bosch platinum were in there). All was fine until 5 days later the car started sputtering at acceleration at 40 mph. Then a few days later it would sputter at first pressing gas then again at 30mph and at 40mph. I let it go and read to clean air flow sensor but haven't yet.
About 2 weeks later it finally produced a code that cylinder 2 misfired. I noticed at that point the sputtering would only be when warmed up. I was going to put in bosch's to see if that would fix it but instead just had time to inspect plugs and coils. Nothing seemed wrong so I put them back in for now. This was Saturday.Echo ran fine until this morning. Now it is sputtering at 40mph. I assume if i let it go it will do the same thing. Can it be the spark plugs are bad and I should be using bosch's or is there another problem i should be looking at?
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