Windows - Subaru - Outback - Windshields :: Condensation On Outside
Jun 19, 2013
I have been driving my Subaru Outback for almost 60,000 miles over the past 7 years, all over the country, so I know it pretty well. I just replaced the windshield for the first time, due to a crack. I chose a windshield company with many A ratings on Angie's List, although I'll admit it was the least expensive one. They seemed very professional.
I drove the car tonight after it has rained a few days, including earlier today. It was 72 degrees with no humidity. After driving about a half hour, i started getting crazy condensation on the outside of the windshield, and there was some film that the wipers couldn't seem to completely get clean. I also had fogging inside the window ---even though i was driving with the windows open. This has never happened to me before. I assume there is some problem with how they installed the new windshield?
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About 3 weeks ago I noticed my dear '93 Honda wagon with only 68,000 miles was developing lots of condensation on the inside windows. About a week ago I noticed that there was about half an inch of water on the passenger side in the front, back and a little in the well that holds the spare tire. I have contacted my mechanic and a leak specialist. The leak specialist said (without seeing the car) that there was more than one leak since water was appearing in all these areas. I thought it strange that all leaks would appear at one time. Also need to mention that about 3 weeks after I bought the car 18 years ago, I forgot to set the parking brake and it backed into a rock wall which damaged the passenger side of the wagon. That damage was repaired at the time. The windshield is also cracked but I can't imagine that would be the source of the problem. There is no water on the dash.
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2011 Sonata SE
So I noticed some pretty extreme fogginess and internal condensation on my windows the past few days (spring has sprung, but we have had some colder days in SE Pennsylvania). Then after taking a bag out of my passenger side floor I noticed it was soaking wet. Couldn't figure it out until I saw that my passenger side carpet was soaked.
It can't be a leak from the windshield or above because only the bottom part of the bag that was touching the floor was soaked.
We did have a pretty rainy day about 2 days ago, and I did use my AC for the first time in a while as well in the past few days so not sure if it's an AC tube problem or seal and drainage problem somehow.
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We have a 2002 Cadillac Eldorado that started filling up with water. There is literally inches of standing water on the floor, condensation on all the windows, and all the upholstery is soggy. I've vacuumed it out and left the doors open to try to aid in airing/drying it out, but when I go back in an hour the water has accumulated on the floor again.
My husband drilled a few holes in the floor to allow the water to drain out, and we removed the back seat to see if we could find where the water was coming from. The water accumulates in the seat compartment where the seat was removed, and though the holes in the floor drain the water somewhat, it still collects there. Now there is mold/mildew starting to develop and I've used a bleach water solution to try to arrest that, but I'm really getting sick of dealing with this car.
He says we can't sell it until we get another 8000 miles out of it, but we can't drive it when it's all wet like this, and he doesn't want to put any more money into it--
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My Gti has been sitting in my driveway unused for a couple months now. The condensation in it has been unusually heavy when parked. The carpet is dry, doesn't smell damp inside, no coolant smell. Windshield was replaced 2year ago never had a prob with it so idk if it's that that's leaking, but what would the signs of that be? But what I really think it could be is that my recirculating flap is stuck closed. Could that be it?
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I have a Subaru Forester 2006. This year, noticed condensation in driver's side headlight after a heavy rain. Not too long after, the headlight blew. (My headlights have been blowing at a frightening rate, but that might be a different thread for another time.). We changed the light and did our best to dry out the inside of the housing. We also checked for leaks by blowing air into the housing, with no luck at finding anything obvious. We put a little flashing on the inside, thinking there might be a problem with the rubber gasket.
Next rain, same problem. We also noticed in a parking lot another Forester, similar vintage, with condensation in both of its headlights. Is this a known problem...
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My 2000 outback wagon has only 67k miles. About a month ago, the check engine light came on. I took it to an Auto Zone and although unfortunately I didn't write down the code, the person who checked the car seemed to think it was probably just a bad tank of gas. I ran through that tank of gas and filled up with premium gas. Light didn't go off until THAT tank was near empty. Filled up a third time and light remained off until tank was near empty and it came on again. It has not yet gone off. I'm not sure how many more tanks of gas I should run through! The car isn't running poorly so I thought the bad gas was a good explanation.
A side note: about 6 months ago I had to have the head gasket replaced. I argued with Subaru and got some extra work done in exchange for the head gasket payment since my car missed the recall by a few digits but I was obviously stuck with an inferior product. I'm hoping they didn't do an inferior job. Even though it was 6 months ago, it wasn't that many miles ago - you can see my the year/mileage on my car that I don't drive a lot. Does that gas explanation sound reasonable? Anything about a head gasket related?
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Having problem with corrosion of the tie down on a battery? The terminals are fine. It's just the metal plate that holds the battery in place with bolts. The paint has corroded off. I clean it up and cover it with dielectric grease. I have to do this every 4 to 6 months or so, because the corrosion keeps coming back. I had the same problem with my 2004 Subaru Legacy, and had to replace the battery holder as a result.
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my car has tge 3.6 motor and has 2500 miles and seems to be loosing coolant...
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Our 2011 Subaru Outback 3.6R, which we bought brand new back in Feb ’11 and only has 4k miles, seems to be having issues with the cooling fan. The cooling fan will come on when the engine is cold and it will stay on the entire time the engine is running. I’ve read that the cooling fan will run the whole time when either the A/C is on or the vent control is set to defrost, regardless of whether the engine is cold or hot. In my case, the cooling fan comes on when the engine is cold, even with the HVAC off and it will remain running at full speed when the engine is running, again with the HVAC off.
Every time I go to start the car after it has been sitting for an entire day and the engine is cold, when I turn the key to the “On” position, before the engine is even started, the cooling fan comes on. How is this possible when the engine isn’t even running and the engine is cold. Again, the HVAC is off. Once the car is started, the cooling fan will remain on until the car is shut off. The fan is running as such a high speed you can hear it over the noise of the idling engine. Once I turn the car off the fan shuts off.
Since we’ve owned the car there were two other issues First, the transmission pan gasket wasn’t properly installed and it was leaking transmission fluid. That issue was fixed and is good now. The second issue was that oil was leaking from the timing chain cover. It turns out that the timing chain cover gasket was also improperly installed. This too was fixed, and doesn’t seem to be a problem anymore.
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I purchases a 2012 Subaru Outback i2.5 Premium in January. The car has been stalling out after getting gas; I've put gas in it about 10 times, and it's stalled out or nearly stalled out after 4 or 5 of those times. The first time it happened I had to have the car towed back to the dealer. At the time, they thought it was bad gas, but the repetition of the problem has them stumped. There are no warning lights or error codes. I have had the car back to the dealer on four occasions, and unfortunately they can't replicate, find, or correct the problem. Now Subaru is involved. The car also runs rough and shifts rough, compared to the identical 2012 Outback I was given as a loaner the last time I had it in.
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Where the heck is the gas cap release. Just bought it to get back home as the jeep needs broken motor mount fixed and had to leave it in town. The subaru is pretty beat up so the gas cap release could be hiding (as in handle gone) ?
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I own a 2002 Outback. It is overheating. We have replaced hoses, thermostat, water pump, the temp sensor, had the radiator tested. Nothing has changed our problem. My husband is at a loss and the mechanic who has is now has no clue as to what else it could be. The mechanic is referring to it as a ghost problem.
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I have a 2001 Subaru Outback with the 5 speed manual transmission. About 6 months ago the clutch went out and we had it replaced. We did not go to a professional shop and instead used a friend of my father-in-law who used to be a mechanic. Last weekend I drove the car on the beach to go fishing and got the car stuck in the sand.
After 2 attempts to get unstuck the clutch started smoking and blew out. I only attempted to get unstuck 2 times and was not "rallying" the engine hard. I realized I was good and stuck and stopped because I didn't want to spin the tires and dig myself so deep I couldn't get towed out.
My question is this; what are the chances that a brand new clutch would blow after 6 months? The car is used mainly to drive on paved roads to and from work and the grocery store. Both my wife and I have driven manual transmission cars for years and we don't ride the clutch. It goes through the usual wear and tear of everyday driving and yet, one incident that requires a little beef from the clutch and it blows?
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I have a 1998 Subaru Legacy Outback (automatic) that has 176,779miles on it. I live in San Francisco and only drive the car occasionally every 2-3 weekends out of the city. Recently within the past month I have noticed that after turning on my car and once it is in drive for the first 10-15 minutes it has a hard time getting past 20 mph. When I put the foot on the accelerator to go past 20mph the rpm goes way up to 4, 5 or 6. Once it gets past this then car is smooth and I have no problems. This problem seems to go away within 10-15 minutes of driving or if I turn my car off and then on again it seems to go away. I called my mechanic and they said it could be that the transmission fluid is low. I checked the level and it is perfectly normal.
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I am about to buy a 2003 Subaru Legacy Outback Sedan H6-3.0. When it gets up to about 40-45mph it begins a low hum or moan and gets louder as it goes faster. At freeway cruising speed the whole car is moaning with what I would describe as a mild vibration. My first inclination is to think it is a wheel bearing issue.My wife thinks it might be a tire issue. She said she remembers the friend that we might buy it from saying that she had replaced two of the tires on it. I know that on all wheel drive vehicles you have to replace all 4 tires at the same time. Could that cause a sound like this? If so how long might it take to cause damage to the drive system with different size tires?
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I have a 2002 Legacy Outback 6Cyl with VDC. Over the weekend my dash lights for both the ABS and the VDC will not go out after the normal starting of the car. Does this mean I have a brake problem?
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I have a 2002 Subaru Outback and can't get gas in the tank. The tank acts like it is already full. Any solutions?
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My 1999 Subaru Impreza Outback Sport recently got new tires. After, I really started to notice clunking noises when accelerating, but they would stop when the brakes were pressed. It is sometimes loud, other times it may be harder to hear. My dad says the car has been doing it for a while now. When I first got the car in 2011, I remember the car would creak repeatedly when slowing down, but it had to be the right circumstances for the vehicle to be noisy when coming to a stop. Now it does the clunking noise (gets faster as the car goes faster) only when accelerating, does not creak or make noise when turning.
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I recently bought a 1997 Subaru Outback. There is a burning smell sometimes and can't quit put my finger on any specific time that this occurs. Also, I find the heat is really crummy. Takes a very long time to heat up and never gets really warm. I might add that when I bought this car the air conditioning "condenser" was not hooked up. It came with the car and looks like a small radiator. Could this have anything to do with either problem?
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I have a 2002 Subaru Outback with 5 speed tranny, when I go to get moving the car bounces kinda like the clutch is getting disengaged too fast but it usually gets going just fine, this doesn't happen as bad when I accelerate slowly, when I disengage the clutch and get going it kinda lurches a few times. No matter the combo of clutch and gas I can't seem to get it to stop. This happens when I start in 1st and second gear, and a lot of the time if I accelerate quickly it will smell like burning rubber.
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