Volvo - Xc90 :: 2003 - Instrument Cluster Went Out
Sep 29, 2012
I had my radiator replaced last month and the day after I got it back from the shop the instrument cluster died (sort of). It functions intermittently but is off a majority of the time. I can tease it on by pressing the on the front of the cluster in the lower left corner but it goes out again when I let off the pressure. I called the shop and they told me there was no way that any work they had done replacing the radiator could cause the cluster to go out, but I am not so sure.
Since then I have been driving not aware of my speed (I actually have an app that gives me my speed but is a sad workaround) or knowing how much fuel I have in the car at any given moment. And, as you who know what type of money pit I am driving, all of the notifications to warn me when something is wrong. which it usually is, are located in the cluster as well. As soon as I have a working cluster I will sell it.
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This has been a wonderful car to say the least. Has about 150K on it and it drives like a champ. Recently the instrument cluster went out, sometimes it will randomly work but 9/10 times it's off. When I used it to jump start another car the instrument cluster began working almost instantly, although this was only temporary. When the temperatures are low as they are on the northern east-coast right now around 30ยบ and lower (shivers) it will work. Why is this? does anything to do with the battery having to work harder?
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So I recently bought a 2002 volvo s60 base sedan with a dead instrument cluster. I sent it out to be repaired and when I got it back and plugged it in, it did not work. At first I thought it was the company who repaired who messed up, but I looked up the numbers on the cluster and it is out of a 2001 Volvo. I have no way of contacting the previous owner to find out if they tried swapping out the cluster with one from the junkyard, or if they have the original cluster.
I don't know what to do because I cant send the cluster back to the company since I don't know if its the original one or not. Is there any way I can find out what the original numbers are on my cluster. Is there any way to find out the original numbers on the cluster using my vin number? I called the volvo dealer and all they gave me was the part number for a new cluster.
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I have a 2003 Volvo XC90, 2.5T AWD ... Since two weeks no start, no crank, when I turn the key in the ignition nothing happened, only the navigation screen is going off. I try the second key and it is doing the same. It happened when battery goes very low.
I try to scan it with different scanners and the same DTC is showing: (ECM-720A: Immobiliser communication)
Someone said I must remove the ECM and the ECU, read the both and use "Volvo Synchro V1.4 Loader" synchronize and program the key but i do not really know how to do it. Is it possible to do immo off ?
The VIN number is: YV1CZ59G741071108
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I have a 2003 Volvo XC90 that turns over but will not start. The fuel pump has been replaced twice, once by the car lot I purchased the vehicle from - the car worked for maybe a week and the problem returned, and the second time by the Volvo dealership - again the car worked initially, maybe another week and the problem returned. I'm not even sure if it is the fuel pump, but after two fuel pumps, I'm thinking that the issue may be something else.
I'm not sure if Volvo Dealership ran a full diagnostic or not, because they replaced the fuel pump because of the recall. Each time the car was "fixed" the car would start maybe after 3 seconds of cranking (which is long compared to my other cars that catch immediately) but on subsequent starts the 3 turns into 10 seconds, 15 seconds or so the next time, until eventually it just does not catch and I drain the battery in attempting to.
It has actually been "fixed" three times, but the second time a fuse was replaced, and it worked, and deteriorated exactly the same way as the other times until it no longer started again. I'm hoping that the nature of how it begins failing can be of some assistance, I feel as if some type of pressure or something is being lost over time, the way it takes longer and longer to start before it decides not to.
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I have a 03 xc90 t6 came out of work the other day and it wouldn't start replaced spark plugs, both cam sensors, crank sensor. After doing all that it sounds like it wants to fire now but doesnt.
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My '03 XC90 T6 starts right up when cold. It runs fine when hot. but now I have an engine light and these two OBD codes: P0420 & P0607
What would cause this hard starting.
And if I open the hood on the car for about 1/2 hour in the cold, it starts right up. Otherwise, it just cranks and cranks. Fuel rail seems to be getting fuel b/c when I'm cranking the engine then I turn the key off (not started), the fuel line has pressurized fuel in it.
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The speedometer, tachometer, fuel gauge, battery meter, temp gauge and idiot lights went out. The car works fine. Dash is just dead. I did a quick look at the fuses in the glove box but it doesn't have the little card to tell fuse locations. So, I can't narrow it down but I don't see any blown fuses.
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Recently my 2003 Hyundai Accent has lost illumination on all gauges. Oddly the clusters light up when I arm and disarm the alarm system. The fuses look good and this all began when I had to fix the stereo. At this point I am lost. I have a few ideas in mind that could be causing this behavior. The computer may be going out, a wire got pinched and cut the connection, or I just plainly shorted out something. I have a video showing the problem I am having and I'll have a link to my youtube video.
My Instrument Cluster won't Illuminate - YouTube ....
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Currently my gas & temp gauges do not work, so I assume the cluster is shot or needs fixed etc. my question is can I simply replace it with a used one from eBay, or do I need to send this one back to be programmed? I was reading about the immobilizer which I assume the 2003 is subject to as well?
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I have a failing 2003 Chevy Suburban instrument cluster and wonder if I can replace it myself. All I have to do is remove it and re-install it when they send it back. 4 bolts and one plug. No reprogramming. What could be easier? Is it really something I can/should do? -
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I just replaced all 5 of my instrument cluster bulbs in my 1998 f150. Everything looks nice and bright now that everything is replaced but around the top of the speedometer the light is dim. Is this normal for this instrument cluster or could there be a bad bulb or a light blockage? It's frustrating to go through effort to get to the cluster and find out after it's put back together that there's a bad bulb or something.
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I have a 2012 F350 XLT that came out of Canada. So of course the speedometer is in KM. (Large numbers are km and smaller numbers are mph). I am trying to find out if I can simply change out my cluster with a mph cluster???
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I've got a 03 explorer with a 4.0 and it seems the fuse keeps blowing out, I have to keep replacing the fuse every time for the gadgets on the instrument cluster. Could there be short somewhere?
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The brake light in my instrument cluster on my 1997 F150 won't come on. I have put in 2 new bulbs.
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I just picked up an '03 Golf and decided to put in the euro switch I had from my old Jetta. When I turn the headlights on (either parking or full) the instrument cluster blue back lighting and the red interior LEDs work only sometimes. When they work, they all work, but probably about 9 out of 10 times, they just won't come on at all, so I have to sit there turning the switch on and off repeatedly until they do come on. What could be causing this? It's definitely not a fuse since they do come on eventually, so my first thought was maybe a relay, but which one? What else could be going on?
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So I noticed this is a common problem in several scenarios. Some are electric failures and key failures and computer failures....And other times they happen when you switch the cluster.
I had a blacked out cluster with a couple broken gauges and after spending an hour swapping the cluster I get a crank but no start. I tried switching the 301 and 304 fuses (fuel pump and PCM) as that was mentioned somewhere online but it did nothing. Any quick fixes or do I need to tow it to a dealership?
2001 Supercrew with 4.6L and 4x4
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I've been getting a random, periodic flicker of the light on the instrument cluster. It seems like it occurs when the rpm's are increasing to 2000. Does the light come on for over voltage as well as under voltage? When I check the voltage at the batteries at idle, I'm in the 14.5 v range. I cleaned/tightened all the wires to the battery and alternator and it is still occurring, will be doing the ground wires on sunday.
2003 4x4 7.3 no tunes
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I pushed the Tow/Haul button on the gear shift and my instrument cluster went DEAD. Have checked the 3 fuses labeled instrument panel (F4,F35,F41) and they look OK.
2003 F250 6L diesel .....
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I have a 1997 Ford Expedition, 5.4. My research indicates that fuses 2. 19. 29 are associated with the instrument cluster (IC), could you identify their specific function in relation to the IC? My IC gauge lights are not showing and my alternator is not consistently charging. The blinkers, battery, oil, brake, and ABS indicator lights are showing in start. Regarding the alternator, my research indicates that a failing alt light on the IC may cause the no charging condition? As a note, I have a brand new battery, brand new alternator, brand new 3 pin wiring harness. Also, when the alternator is not charging and I connect the a jumper from the exciter wire directly to the pos battery terminal, the charging starts.
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I am currently converting a 1999 E350 7.3 diesel bus into a camper to live in. The bus has already had a lot of weird custom work. Done by someone else and a lot of the interior torn out and extra insulation put in. There is an exposed electrical panel behind the drivers seat. It was a cheap buy, previously fleet maintained with only 120k.
I was hooking up a battery for accessories to a terminal labeled "Battery" that does run indeed directly to the + terminal of the battery in the engine compartment.
Unfortunately I mistakenly connected the accessory battery to a terminal labeled "ignition" that runs to behind the dash. When I tried starting the vehicle off the auxiliary battery for a test everything went out for 2 seconds, I heard a click from the engine compartment, and everything than came back on. This is when I realized my mistake.
It used to be the speedo only didn't work (which I assumed was the step motor), now after this mistake all the gauges, the odometer and the buzzers don't work. Lights like the battery and airbag warning indicator still function.
Checked fuse 2 (15 amp) for the instrument cluster and it is intact. Actually checked every fuse in the vehicle in both fuse panels and all are intact. The radio works though and the vehicle is not equipped with power windows.
Going to go get a radio removal tool to take apart the dash and get back there. What this could be? Did I fry a relay? Did I fry the cluster circuit board.
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