Volvo - Xc70 :: Thumping Under Driver Side Floorboard
Feb 20, 2013
I feel a new thumping on my left foot as it rests on the floor of on the driver's side. It seems to happen mostly when I'm turning the steering wheel, particularly right, and is most prevalent when the car is cold and going in reverse, though it will thump when turning the to the right and when it's warmer--just to a lesser extent. I have also felt the thump in the gas and brake pedal. It seems to happen less/not at all when I'm going more than 40 mph. The car has 81k miles on it. 2006 Volvo XC70...
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A couple of weeks ago I started hearing this rattling/thumping coming from under the driver's side floorboard when the car is started. Almost sounds like a loose exhaust pipe. You can hear just little rattling under idle but it goes away (or you can't hear it) while driving.
Both shops (Pep Boys and dealer) told me it's quite expensive to replace. I just started looking around and I do see aftermarket cats for a few hundred. How hard can this replacement be for the average driveway mechanic?
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I have a 2012 Volvo S60 with an intermittent problem. Sometimes when I am moving slowly (probably 5 to 10 mph) and turning the wheel, I'll feel a thumping under my feet (more to the left side of the floor). It has happened when I start moving, but I seem to notice it more often as I'm stopping -- perhaps only because I'm more likely to be turning at slow speeds when stopping (e.g. pulling into a parking space).
The dealer looked for the problem, but found absolutely nothing. This has been going on for over a year now and I'd like to figure it out in case I'm heading to a bigger problem. Btw, when I say intermittent, it may happen a few times over a day or two, then nothing for the rest of the month.
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Whenever I cut the wheel to the left, there is a fairly loud knocking/grinding noise that I can feel through the floorboard.
Brakes have already been replaced, ball joints and tie rods inspected - no problems. Front end was greased (exception to the zirc fitting on the very top of the steering linkage). There is no modifications to the suspension (no lift) and the tires are the standard size (no rubbing in the wheel well). I do not know how long it has been since the shocks/struts were replaced but after inspection they seem to be in OK shape.
I read on this site that some owners were noticing a knocking under their floorboards too because of worn "body mounts". However, the body mounts are directly under the pedals. I don't feel any grinding or knocking under the pedals. It feels like its directly under the floorboard in front of the seat.
Could the body mounts be the issue when turning the wheel or is this something more sinister?
If its the body mount, it would be great if someone could post pics of the procedure. I have some pics that were posted from before but where to look on the underside of the truck to find the bolt/nut etc and where I put the floor jack and how high to raise the body...
2000 Excursion XLT
7.3L Diesel
149,000 miles
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I drive a 2000 Saturn LS1. My current problem is that every time I run the A/C for an extended period of time water soaks my driver's side front floorboard, with a little bit (but not much) making the passenger side floorboard damp. A friend who is a pretty decent mechanic told me my heater core was busted and causing the water leak, so we bypassed the heater core. The next time I ran the A/C for over two hours, the water came back. I'm 90% sure the actual cause of the water leak is my A/C drain being clogged. What can I do to fix it? Also, why does this happen only on long trips?
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2003 Hyundai Accent 4 door. Well its been raining here in Portland Oregon non stop and this morning I went to get in my car and smelled a mildew odor so I took out the drivers floor mat and the carpet was soak. Then I laid back the carpet and that grey spongy covering thats under the pedals was soaked to the bone like a sponge.
I did a test with a water by putting the hose on top of the roof of the accent and turning it on full bore and nothing leaked in the car. I sat in their for a good 5 minutes with the hose blaring down the windshield and door sides. I even took a jack and lifted the car up too see if there was any cracks or a rusty hole underneath but nothing. So Im completely stumped on this I do have A/C and the drain hose is clear since I have been using my defrosters and the A/C pump kicks on.
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My driver side floorboard is leaking something. I am not sure what this could be. There is a huge stain that looks like a burn almost, and around the hole is a brown stain that keeps getting bigger. I lift up my floor mat and it is soaked. Could this be my air conditioner leaking or could it be something more serious? 2002 Mitsubishi Galant ES....
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2014 SFS 2.0T
Wife was driving in heavy rain and noticed water dripping from above the parking brake.
When she got home took a quick look and noticed moisture around the fuse box that sits just above the parking brake.
Assume a seal somewhere is bad. Did some searching but only got hits for passenger side leaks and AC drain hose.
Next step is a trip to the dealer to diagnose.
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Just picked up an 01 Excursion V10 for $2900 with 170k on the odometer. Has some damage on the left quarter panel, but it runs perfectly.
Since I bought it, there has been a squeaking noise that I could feel underneath the driver's side floorboard. I figured it was body mounts. To find out if that was the case, I first sprayed both the sway bar bushings and the body mounts with some oil. The noise went away, but came back the next day.
The second time, I sprayed only the body mounts, and again the noise went away, only to return again. Aside from which, the sway bar bushings look like they were installed very recently.
So, it's the body mounts, but I've come across threads here and elsewhere that these were a common issue, but I haven't seen a fix for them. I assume new mounts would eventually develop the same noise.
What am I looking at here? Just some new mounts or do I need to do something else?
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I am original owner of a 2000 CRV, it's in really good shape and has been maintained by me on about 99% of all repairs it has 140k total. I have this thumping noise coming through the floorboard by my feet, under moderate acceleration and it goes away at just about any speed when you quit accelerating. Sounded like a bad halfshaft, I had already replaced one so I did the other side, got worse. So I replaced the one that had been in for just 2 years--no better. Asked the auto parts store for a recommendation and went to that shop, they balanced the tires, checked rotors and concluded I was buying junky rebuild half shafts. I had them replace the one they thought was bad with another rebuild, just as bad or worse...
I took home and put in both sides with new halfshafts, I also noticed some play in jackshaft bearing and replaced that as well....no better. Shop claims that a website they subscribe to says that 50% of aftermarket halfshafts for CRV are no good. But honestly we are 5 for 5 bad, last two were new from NAPA. Pulled things apart and checked wheel bearings left side was sticky so had machine shop press one into the knuckle, right side was done about 14 months ago. Also disconnected drive line and drove it as a 2 wheel drive vehicle....no better. Would a broken tire belt only make noise on acceleration or after a corner when you accelerate? Is this a possible indication of my transaxle going out? ---
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We noticed that the driver side floorboard was soggy, so we removed the floor mat, propped the carpet up, and drained about an inch of water using the rubber plug. Well, it was left with the plug in and the carpet propped up over the weekend and, this morning, there's over an inch of water sitting on the metal.
I'm assuming it's coming from the sunroof drain but, although I was able to find the exit point for the drain, I couldn't find where the water actually enters said drain. Also, what's the best way to clear this issue?
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Whenever my car go over a bump or uneven road, it causes a thumping noise in the rear driver. I have ultra racing rear sway.
I have re-lubricated the bushing, and changed the oem end links to moog.
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What would cause the clock in our 2004 XC70 to change on its own and to race through time upon starting?
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The AM radio part of the radio does not work. The FM radio and everything else works but AM radio.
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I have a 2002 V70XC, and all of the dashboard instruments have completely gone out, no speedometer, gas guage, odometer, etc. My Volvo mechanic doesn't want to touch this, he says that the whole thing needs to be replaced, and I should go to a dealer. I can't believe that this is that bad?
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For the past several weeks, my daughter reports that she has to put her foot almost all the way to the floor to get the brakes to work. The brakes do not have an effect until her foot is 1-2 inches from the floor. It usually happens after she has been driving for a while without pressing the brakes. I’ve driven the car numerous times but haven’t been able to replicate the problem. Her commute is approximately 10 miles each way in stop and go traffic. The car is a Volvo xc70 with 200k+ miles. I've had it looked at by a mechanic who didn't find anything but it's continuing to happen. I'm suspicious that it may be a master cylinder problem and concerned about complete brake failure -- should I be?
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I have a 1999 Volvo XC 70 with 152,000 miles. Last Wednesday after driving it about 3 miles and stopping it, i restarted it and the following 4 warning lights all came on at once: Brake, ABS, check engine and the shift arrow light came on and was flashing. By the time i got home (about 3 more miles), both the ABS and Brake lights had turned off (and haven't come back on). When i started it the following morning, the flashing arrow light was also off (and has not come back on). The only light that remains on a week later is the check engine light. The car performed that day perfectly, and has been performing perfectly even since, and there are no weird noises, smells, etc. It has been a fantastic car for the 6-7 years i have owned it and it has been very well maintained. Last Wednesday it was cold outside (25-30), but not terribly cold and this car has seen way colder weather and has done just fine.
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I went and got an alignment and my tires were rotated and after I started driving it for a little I heard the noise of the tires. There is one stipulation here: I was cut off while driving around 40mph and had to slam on my brakes for about 3 seconds (two days after getting the alignment and don't remember if the noise was there before - I also hadn't driven the car fast though), so I'm unsure if this is part of the noise. But, it's one week later and when I'm driving over ~20+, the noise just gets to be louder.
The best way to explain it is that I can hear what would seem is the tires simply running on the ground and it just gets louder as I drive faster and dimmer as I drive slower. The tires have about 15k on them and are rated for 140k, and I've rotated them a few times before.
Also, my car is a 2005 Volvo XC70 with around 140k on the odometer.
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I've checked the wheel bearings, lug nuts and wheel balance. Sometimes the car will shimmy or vibrate not in the steering wheel and not all the time. It will vibrate for a day or two, then nothing, then vibrate again. It was not vibrating today, then I took some curves hard at 35 mph or so and it started a medium level vibration. This vibration started a day or two after the ABS, traction control, and check engine lights came on while nearly completing a 10 hour drive. I have described this to a number of mechanics and the fact that the vibration goes away has them stumped.
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About a year ago, my Volvo XC70 started hesitating as it increased speed from 0 to about 30mph. After the hesitation it jerked forward. This problem is worse if the gas tank is full. I took the car to a highly recommended transmission garage and they said it wasn't the transmission but the throttle pro-actor and I would have to go to a dealer for that because Volvo has proprietary rights on the computer in the car. I took it do the dealer but the problem persists. My regular mechanic is doing some research about the problem but I would like to know if this sounds like a complete transmission overhaul or if only part of the transmission or a connection needs replacing. I would like to be prepared before I go to the mechanic.
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Every time I open then close either of the driver side doors (haven't tried passenger yet), I hear a thumping noise coming from the trunk.
When I opened the trunk to see what it was, the noise stopped. Only with trunk closed does this happen.
Could it be air pressure causing the trunk lid to move? I didn't think the car was that air tight.
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