Issues with check engine light coming on and staying on. The dealer says it is either a gas cap problem or the type of gas being put in the car. Dealer recommends only using Shell fuel. The car drives fine and am wondering if this might be sensitive fuel detection.
View 2 RepliesWe bought a new 2012 Volvo XC 70 wagon. It only has 6,000 miles on it and the Check oil light has gone on three times. Each time it has required approximately one quart (which the dealer claims is "within specs" for this engine). I believe it satisfies the lemon law criteria in PA since it has been back to the shop three times in less than a year. Should I insist on a replacement or is this "normal" wear for this car.
View 19 RepliesHave a Volvo XC70 and LOVE it! Recently ETS light came on and Check engine has always been on, mechanics did not seem to worried in past. As of the last month seemed to be issue with thermostat... Car would warm to normal when idling and driving below 25 mph... once I accelerated needle would drop and thermostat would go to baseline... Could feel faint warm air, but was only getting cold air coming from vents... Thought it might be thermostat stuck open?
Called my trusted mechanic and he recommended going to a radiator specialist, felt he might not be able to solve. Went to new shop today, after dropping off at 8am when they opened and not hearing from them until 4:45pm, 15 minutes before they close... Car is fixed, or so they say. Hot air is indeed coming out of vents and needle is staying where it should without falling...
BUT, now there is a strange smell (sulfur"ish") coming from the engine, and the car is shuddering and vibrating, bucking almost when car comes to a stop and then accelerates. ETS light is back on and check engine is now flashing!?! Tried going up hill on the way home and could not go faster than 20mph? None of this was happening before I took it in to the new shop today? They changed oil and oil filter and flushed radiater?
My wife has a problem with the check engine light coming on and staying on. The dealer has replaced the fuel pump twice (which they say is the problem) but it keeps happening.
View 4 RepliesI have a 2003 Volvo XC70 with 87K miles on it. I have kept it serviced. For the last few years I have had an intermittent problem with the engine light coming on saying I am having engine performance problems, that I can (sometimes) alleviate by tightening the gas cap. I make a point of tightening the cap til it clicks when I fill up, so I don't know why this happens. Also, sometimes it happens and I can feel the engine slowing down.
It tends to happen more on very hot days when it has been sitting outside of my office building in the sun all day (there is no shade to park). I have a 10 minute ride home and by the time I am 5 minutes into the drive the light comes on. When I get home I pop the fuel lid and tighten the gas cap (even though it feels plenty tight) and by the next morning the light is often off . My dealer has no idea what is going on, but there is something wrong.
I bought a 2005 Volvo V70 with 75,500 miles on Nov. 13. On Nov. 15, the check engine light went on, and I returned to the dealership for a solenoid replacement. The check engine light went on again on Nov. 17, oil pan replaced. On Nov. 19, the light went on again, timing belt replaced. On Nov. 22, the light went on again. Each time the code was the same--sometimes in conjunction with other codes--but one code was consistent. We returned the car on Nov. 22 and asked for a refund in keeping with the Massachusetts lemon law (an attempt at repair 3+ times). The dealer refused, saying the check engine light and computer code were not the same as an attempted repair. He took the car and said he was going to call Volvo Tech in. However, he says the light "went off" and never came back on even though his staff has test driven it 170 miles in the past three days. He's "releasing our car" to us, even though he has made no repair. Tell me--is trying to address the same computer code considered a "repair"?
View 13 RepliesGot a 2010 Prius with about 61000 miles on it. Starting yesterday the check engine light stay on all the time (As soon as I started the car). I tried open and tighten the gas cap but no luck and check engine light still stay on all the time. What could be the problem? Will any ODB scanner able to diagnose the check engine light code or need a specific one?
View 6 Replies2007 Mini Cooper S - Engine light stays on but when I have it checked no codes show up.
View 11 RepliesIt happened randomly on the way home from work, the car chugged along with the check engine light flashing at me and then staying on. I was able to limp it home and got a ride to the nearest auto parts store to get some new plugs. I went with the NGK brand. Well, $60 later (including tools on the spot) and it's still running rough.
I know best case it to try and limp it to the autoparts store to let them try and pull the codes. I noticed an old thread where updates were made to the software to correct a running issue. I will note this same chugging randomly happened at 50,000 miles. I shut the car off, let it sit for a moment, restarted and it ran just fine. The engine vibrates noticeably just like it did at 50,000.
2009 Accent running rough 73,000 miles....
1990 ford ranger.. I just bought this truck, check engine light stays on.. What can I do to find out what's the problem?
View 3 RepliesI have a 2003 VW Jetta TDI and the check engine light has been staying on solid (not flashing) for a couple of months. I took it to my local dealer who tested the computer and said that it was the thermostat and a related sensor. That answer didn't seem to make sense, and unfortunately I didn?t get the code from the dealer at the time. I did though have the code read recently at another shop and it said: "Code P0674 which is #4 glow plug circuit - Q13 - electrical fault sporadic." What this means?
View 6 RepliesI own a 2002 Volvo S40 Turbo with the following problem. Every now and then the "Check Engine" light comes on. Then, when I turn the ignition off, the car shakes violently for several minutes. Last time this happened, I took the car to the dealer, and the computer diagnostics came up with this message: ECM-44 MISSFIRE, EMMISSION LEVEL, FAULTY SIGNAL INTERMITTENT FAULT. What is wrong, and how it can be fixed?
View 6 RepliesI have an '03 S60 - nonturbo with 239,000 miles. I've never had any performance problems with the car.
Here is the situation - The check engine light has gone on 3 times in about the last 2 months. It just happened for a fourth time today. Each time it's exactly, almost exactly the same distance from home, from a cold start on a hot day.
Same code each time. I don't remember what it was - something to do with the air mass meter - it was on the paperwork from the dealer that I can't find right now.
First time the code came on was two days after getting the air filter changed so I suspected they didn't assemble the air filter case properly. I brought it into the mechanic. They recommended pressure cleaning the throttle body and changing the air mass meter. I opted not to do it and they just reset the light.
Second time I remember putting oil and an oil additive in (Lukas oil) to top off the oil in the car before I left.
Brought it back to the dealer and when I spoke to the mechanic at the dealership.He said I could do the throttle body cleaning and change the meter, but that wasn't the problem. He warned of some sort of internal engine problem suggesting that an oil path from the top to the bottom of the engine is clogged and causing some sort of other ambiguous issue in the engine.
Btw according to the car computer it gets 31 miles to the gallon.
Third time- I topped the car off with oil (cheap 7-11 oil). I drove the same distance and the light went on.
The second two times the light went off on its own.
Fourth time just happened on a quick errand. Car had been sitting for about 3 hours since it last ran. When I ran it earlier today I didn't have the light come on.
I should note that several years ago (at about 180,000) the engine had some sort of check valve at the back of the engine replaced twice because it was whistling.(With the whistling the check engine light did not go on). The second time it was replaced they did an oil cleaning procedure that cleaned the oil path from the top to the bottom of the engine.
Is this really a devastating engine problem? What's going on?
I have a 2002 volvo S60 2.4T that I just had the check engine light come on so I pulled the codes and here is what I found,
PO403
PO611
P1378
P2623
So my question is what does this mean ? what is wrong ?
1994, 960 ... The vacuum controller has two "vacuum lines" attached to it. Should both lines have vacuum present? I keep getting a 241 code with sporadic idle and check engine light.
View 3 RepliesThe Check Engine Light is on. Diagnostic Codes: P0722, P1618, and P1633. Do these mean the output speed sensor/connector wires should be replaced? Is this a DIY job?
View 1 RepliesMy mothers 2004 Volvo S40 (original body style) has an illuminated check engine light. Dad took it to their local dealer. Unable to get a code from the cars computer and guessing the problem might be with the fuel filler cap seal, the dealer sold them a new fuel filler cap, offering them a refund on the cap should that solution not work. It did not.
View 2 RepliesI have a 2007 XC90 3.2 RWD with around 112,800 miles.
On acceleration, there is a rattle (not a valve knocking) that gets quieter once a steady cruise is achieved. At idle in gear, a very quiet rattle can be heard. When transmission is slipped into neutral, the rattle goes away. The engine shifts normally, accelerates normally and gas mileage is steady at around 20.5 mpg (mixed city and highway). I am using 93 octane gas. This week the check engine light came on.
2004 XC90 T6. Local Volvo dealer (Bangkok at the time) said my check engine light was due to the O2 sensors going bad. I changed out the one under the car, then my wife threw out (accident) the other so I didn't change the one accessible from the hood. The check engine light went away so I figured that was that.
Fast forward a year later, I buy an Autel Maxiscan MS509 and now I'm getting check engine code P0455 which is probably the O2 sensors I didn't replace. Other than deductive reasoning, is there some way to look at the data on my OBD reader to confirm which O2 sensor is bad?
I bought a pre-owned 2015 Sonata Limited in November. I only had less than two weeks before the car hesitated upon acceleration and the check engine light came on. At the time, I thought it was a loose gas cap as I'd just gassed up. I took it to the dealership, they pulled the code and it said to replace the accelerator pedal. That required a second trip to the dealership 2 weeks later when they completed the work. Two weeks later and the light came back on. I took it back and asked them to keep it until they found and fixed the root cause while I took a loaner. They kept the car about 2 weeks and when I picked it up, I found that no work had been completed. Two days (!!) later the light came back on.
View 11 RepliesI have a 92 volvo 240 and have recently got a check engine light. I got a code reading of #241 on number 6 terminal. What that means and how to correct this problem?
View 1 Replies