Volvo - Xc70 :: 2001 - Dash Lights And Gauges Went Out / No Power Windows Or Locks
Mar 15, 2011
This is my wfe's 2001 XC70 with 110,000 miles on it. Problem on hand: While drive (only 10 minutes), dash lightS n gauges all went out, power window, lock, sunroof out also, but engine, headlight, n radio still worked. Popped the following warning light; check engine, ABS. This happened twice within a week.
Dealer's recommedation: Took to dealer, they looked at me like I had 4 heads or something. Ran test, told me a bunch of codes popped up but can not replicate the problem. Recommendations was to replace CEM, catalytic converter, driver seat belt. This is a $3,000+ repair that they "think" should fix it. "think"""""" Told them I would think about it. They reset all the warning lights n car ran fine for about 1 month, and have since happened 2 more times while my wife is driving it around with our son. I have also experienced myself, the floor light would stay on as though a door was opened. No power windows or locks.
Leading to the bigger problem: Leading to this problem, I documented the following electrical issues for a few months: -Blower motor running at full speed when I first enter the car after it sat all night in my driveway. -Using the windshield fluid function made the rear speakers produced static sounds, but stop as soon as I let go of the washer fluid lever. -Driver heated seat motor failed twice and left unfixed after second time. -Power window both driver side and passenger would roll up with one touch, but come right back down by itself as though its hitting something. -Note, the above happened here and there, never at the same time. We have own this Volvo for just 1 year. Otherwise love this car. Now what? I don't know what to do, and I think this could be unsafe for the wife and child as their daily commute. What do you think? Any Volvo mechanics here? Is it worth fixing? A, I coming up a guhe waterfall or just a little ripple? We don't have $3000 to try the fix only to have to drop another 1-2k more.
View 5 Replies
Advertisement
My truck was fine yesterday morning, but when I got in it after work, nothing worked. The power windows, radio, ac, gauges all stopped working. Everything else does - power seat, wipers, turn signals....etc. What is going on?
View 2 Replies
Recently I had the dash lights, A/C blower, electric windows all shut down while driving. The car still drove ok, but nothing worked on the instrument panel, electric windows. After parking it overnight at home, all seemed fine except for a message saying the airbag needs servicing. What could cause this?
View 3 Replies
We just replaced an injector in my truck. Everything was fine, ran great, etc.
On the freeway home, the dash, windows, locks, radio all quit working. at first they'd stop and come back, stop and come back, etc. then finally they stopped. As I was getting off the nearest exit, the truck started dying on me. Once I got pulled over out of the way, it acted like the battery was completely dead.
After a few minutes of scratching my head and staring under the hood, I happened to look at the passenger side batter, and the crossover cable from the drivers side was broken off right at the terminal!! We must have broke it off while doing the injector. as I look closer at it, it had been broken before. Some idiot before me had actually taken a broken crimp style terminal, shoved it and crimped it into a new one and called it good.
I was able to redneck it back together so i could finish the last couple miles home. I fixed it properly with a new crimp terminal, heat shrink, etc. Why did the engine die with the crossover connection broken? was it because the series was not complete, and all the electronics were running off the battery(s) and not the alternator? I'm really confused. I've heard of people only running one battery before.
View 9 Replies
I have a 1999 Volvo XC 70 with 152,000 miles. Last Wednesday after driving it about 3 miles and stopping it, i restarted it and the following 4 warning lights all came on at once: Brake, ABS, check engine and the shift arrow light came on and was flashing. By the time i got home (about 3 more miles), both the ABS and Brake lights had turned off (and haven't come back on). When i started it the following morning, the flashing arrow light was also off (and has not come back on). The only light that remains on a week later is the check engine light. The car performed that day perfectly, and has been performing perfectly even since, and there are no weird noises, smells, etc. It has been a fantastic car for the 6-7 years i have owned it and it has been very well maintained. Last Wednesday it was cold outside (25-30), but not terribly cold and this car has seen way colder weather and has done just fine.
View 2 Replies
Power windows and power door locks having a mind of their own? They will suddenly start working on their own. Some kind of a module perhaps?
View 4 Replies
While on a recent 800 mile trip, by the end of it (on interstate driving) a roaring noise was coming from the from tires. A quick inspection showed nothing amiss. It's a 2001 Volvo XC70 with 108,000 miles. The Michelin tires were new at 100k. No shimmering or shaking at higher/lower speeds or changing lanes. Just the annoying new roar as the car gets going over 20mph.
View 7 Replies
I have a 2001 Volvo V70 XC which won't remain on after I fill it up, and while cruising (but not accelerating!) on the highway, it will chug-chug-chug and gives a very jerky ride (confirmed with cruise control). This happens during 60-80 km/hr, but less so at 100-120 km/hr. After I fill the tank I have to rev the engine to get it to 'catch' - if I don't the tach will drop to zero and the car will stall.
View 2 Replies
1997 Plymouth Grand Voyager SE 180K 3.3L
I read other threads about the connections under the hood, both sides, which I unplugged and replugged. I also pulled the IOD fuse for a little bit. Then I removed the cluster and looked it over. Looked good to me.
Got code P1698 for manufacturers assembly control or something to that effect. Thought I checked all the usual culprits. The dash lights work fine, so does everything else. The dash gauges just don't work. This is something that has been an intermittent problem with the dash gauges going out periodically when hitting a bump. It leads me to believe a connection. But I checked all those.
View 14 Replies
My Volvo with 167,000 miles lost power and almost stalled at approx. 3,000 feet in elevation driving up to the mountains from sea level. Check Engine Light came on and after getting off highway and letting it sit for a bit, it started right up and made it down to sea level without a problem. Volvo Dealer could not locate problem. Codes 3503,3513,3523 were showing up. Same problem 1.5 years ago and at that time they replaced radiator, coils, and spark plugs. They said it was not that again, however, they do not know what it is. Car has been faithfully serviced and I want to keep it. I volunteer for a seal rescue non-profit and need a reliable car!
View 4 Replies
'02 TB; 120,000 miles. When I have our TB running the dash lights will come on and the guages will go to zero. Then they will go off and the gauges will return to normal and back again. It acts like the key was shut off though it wasn't. The engine is still running. Now, after reading several posts here I'm thinking the ignition switch is bad. Is there a way to check the ignition switch before I buy a new one?
View 13 Replies
Ihave a 2004 F350 4x4 Dually diesel. While in my hay field I hit a small rut and the truck bounced. About two seconds later all gauges and lights/windows quit working and the truck ran rough. I have a Banks system and it registered a code 33. Maybe 32 error. Book says it is an airbag deployment. They did not deploy. So I drove out of the field and turned it off to see if that would reset the gauges. No, not only that but the gauges all swept the faces from off to full to off and the truck would not start, just chatter.
I disconnected both batteries and waited. Reconnected and it started, but the gauges quit after 10 seconds..... Everything flatlined even the banks IQ. But the truck kept on running. Got back to the ranch and the batteries went flat overnight... Charged them up, starts fine gauges work but alternator puts out 11.5.
View 2 Replies
It seems as though whenever I turn on the AC in the car (and sometimes even if I don't engage the AC) all the windows lock and only I can control them from the driver's control panel...
View 2 Replies
Battery has died..... tried charging it and my amperage is spiking like crazy and wont stop. Prior to all of this my dash lights and gauges were fluctuating at best non responsive at worst. I believed that i had a short in my light switch but with it removed my problems are still consistent my battery terminals are fine, and my battery cables are in good condition. I do not know where the short could be ( i know there are thousands of locations).
View 1 Replies
I have a moonroof & there were no map light bulbs, so I tried putting them in place but the electric connection there wasn't so good (there is a plastic covered with wires) so the bulbs are in but it doesn't work. What worst is, that now all the interior lights (glove box & rear dome) don't work as well!! nor the power windows & moonroof don't work now (it worked before). I guess that I have touched something or a fuse broke... I don't know what to do...
View 2 Replies
All dash lights and gauges went crazy with a picture of battery in screen and then stopped working for a few miles before working again. I was cruising @65 and this happened and downshifted to 2nd then quickly to 3rd and wouldn't shift again. Stuck in 3rd gear.
Had it scanned and got
P0740
P0753
P0758
P0785
All shift solenoids. Would I just buy a new valve body with new solenoids?
I would occasionally have the gauges go crazy and battery light go on but would go away and not have any codes stored. It would only do it towing and always thought it was a ground issue with th
View 10 Replies
I have a 2006 Jeep Commander. Periodically, and quite inconsistently, all the lights on the dash board flash on and off while simultaneously all the gauges drop to zero and the air stops blowing out from the vents. My car will continue to drive and all lights work along with the radio. This has happened while driving at 75 mph on the highway and my car will continue on as if nothing has happened. I know this isn't good, but completely baffled by it all. I have taken it to a Jeep dealer and they only saw there was a weak reading from my battery, but the battery isn't even two years old so I have yet to replace it.
I'm including a video I took while stopped at a light so you will see the RPM's drop down, but since I wasn't moving the MPH remains at zero.
View 4 Replies
We have a 2004 Honda civic and we are having a bit of issue. I am not sure what is wrong but my dad thinks it may be the alternator. I would drive down the road and the dash lights and the gauges would shut off and five minutes later the car would act like its out of gas and sputtering down the road. took it to pepboys and they replaced the positive terminal and two belts. found out the wrong battery was installed at walmart long story short...we got a new battery and drove about 200 miles and it did the same thing....the hood prop was resting on the positive terminal and was arcing my hood. could it be the alternator or more of an electrical problem due to the arcing?
View 2 Replies
OK, I just got done replacing the alternator on the wife's 05 escape 3.0 V6, after it started on fire. The 3 wire plug was melted onto the alternator, so I had to replace the pigtail. I'm 99.9% sure that I got the wires in the right place. But now, after putting it all back together, it idles sporadically, when I drive it seems almost like it's trying to start out in 2nd gear, and shifts oddly. And there are no dash lights or gauges. Headlights work fine. And everything worked normally before I took it apart.
View 1 Replies
There is a feature of the lock mechanism whose name I do not know - When the key is inserted and turned it unlocks the driver's door, turned a second time it unlocks all doors, turn and hold and it lowers all the windows.
This is working intermittently. That is, the second turn does not unlock the other doors, nor does the turn-and-hold lower the windows. As a side bar, when it does not function, using the key to unlock the car it does not turn off the alarm.
I'd like to understand more thoroughly how this system operates so that I can more fully research and diagnose.
View 1 Replies
I have a 2004 F250 Super duty that had a battery die (I left the keys in the ignition switched on overnight) and after jumping the battery off the vehicle started up but now I have no power door lock or window functions. Any reason a dead battery issue might affect the power locks and windows?
View 10 Replies
