Volvo - Xc60 :: T6 AWD Polestar Tune Impressions
Aug 29, 2015
I currently live on the east coast at sea level, but I'll be moving to the mountains at ~7,200 ft. elevation, so I'm thinking my next vehicle will definitely need a turbocharger or supercharger. I'm looking at the XC60, and while turbocharged, my understanding is that it would still lose about 5% of its power at 7,200 feet (how to more exactly calculate the power loss), and since the XC60 is a heavy vehicle even a 5% loss causes me some concern.
So I'm considering the Polestar tune (not the R-Design as the bigger wheels and stiffer suspension aren't suited to the terrain/weather conditions). However, I've heard that some people don't like the Polestar throttle mapping adjustments (can make it a little touchy?).
I'll definitely try to test drive with and without the Polestar tuning, but I can't account for the elevation change and so far the only polestar tuned engines available in my area for a test drive are on R-Design models.
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Looking at getting a new car this fall and am torn between the Volvo XC60 and Acura MDX (2013s).
I've test drove both a couple times. Both drive well, goods and bads about both obviously, just wanted to get some opinions.
I think the Volvo is faster, more luxurious, more destintive looks. Only downside is the tech is a bit cumbersome.
The Acura has a great track record, handles so good for a bigger vehicle.
Plastic wood panelling is too much and the 1995 display font in the center stack is dated.
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I have a 2010 Volvo XC60 T6 AWD. I am encountering an issue with the transmission lurching, usually between 2nd and 3rd gear. While accelerating, the RPMs increase normally and when it tries to shift, it disengages 2nd, waits and the RPMs shoot up another 500-1000 before shifting into 3rd, giving the entire car a big lurch. It doesn't happen every time, but mostly when the when car hasn't been running for long. Another aspect is that the engine seems slightly underpowered when this occurs. The car runs great the rest of the time.
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I accidentally open the hood and find a secret oil spot on the engine. Is it leaking? Do I have to go to dealer to fix it?
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I have purchased a new 2013 XC60 and the seat and mirror memories associated with my keyless Personal Car Communicator (PCC) system are not working properly and the dealer is apparently at a loss as to how to fix it. What is even worse, Volvo's documentation on the capability is contradictory and no one from Volvo (including National Tech Support) is able to explain how it is supposed to work.
The total problem is much too complicated to explain here in detail, but basically the driver's seat and side rear view mirrors do not respond to the PCC (key fob) in a predictable manner. One time use of a particular PCC will result in the seat and mirrors going to one location, and the next time they will go to a different location. Use of the buttons on the PCC will produce one result and use of the keyless capability with the same PCC will produce a different result.
I have determined that the settings saved in the seat memory buttons (there are 3 of them) sometimes play a part in where the seat and mirrors go when the PCC is used despite the Volvo documentation insisting that these memories are separate from each other.
Volvo Tech Support insists that they have no history of problems in this area but discussions with other customers, and even some of the Volvo sales people, make it clear that I am not the only one experiencing these issues.
Although the memory settings would normally just be considered a convenience option, I have found the issue to be a safety concern. On more than one occasion I was on the road before realizing that my rear view mirrors were pointed off in space somewhere and I could not use them to make a safe lane change or other maneuver.
A side observation is that the computer based functions in the car appear sluggish and seem many times to operate with a lag. I know that this car contains almost two dozen processor modules and maybe this topic deserves a separate thread, but it is as if the communications network is very slow or the modules are slow in waking up. I'm wondering if this is involved with the unpredictable seat and mirror memory operation.
I would like to hear from others who have had or are having similar problems.
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AC would blow cold from time to time and not work other times, I tried a recharge and it did nothing to fix the issue so when I took it in for the 40k service I had them take a look at it and they told me that the tuning of my ECM is causing the AC to not work properly! I have the UM tune for flex fuel.
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I have the VF-stg II s/c kit with a UM E35 tune, it seems to have a problem mapping or something when in Launch control mode. If I don't turn off the Launch control before I start driving it will cut rpm's around 3k then kick back in after it thinks for a second, also the engine light comes on/ flashes when the power cuts out. It does this especially hard when going from first to second. It does have no lift shift, but not lifting off the gas when shifting doesn't stop the engine cough.
Should also mention that the launch control doesn't seem to work all the time, only once in a while, will the engine max the revs at 3k on start like it's supposed to when LC engaged.
Currently I have a warning light for Performance malfunction in cooling system, which is also confusing because I have replaced both my CTS and Thermostat , however whether or not the MIL is on the LC doesn't work correctly (I clear the code when it comes back) seems intermittent as I can drive a week or so before it comes back on.
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If I were to install a downpipe on the mk7 and not tune it, will my cel trip. Also if the cel trips is there any damage long term to the car having it on and second if I go to the dealer will I void warranty with a downpipe.
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I recently had a full tune up at 87,000 miles. My receipt does not mention any inspection of the A/C system. 50 miles after the tune-up, my A/C compressor seized. Dealer claimed this was simply coincidence. I think there is a chance that they checked the A/C Coolant level and may have not secured the valve. I cannot find on the internet evidence that this compressor is prone to failure at just 3 years (87,000 miles).
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Would you remove the tune for just a regular Oil change? Its not the 10.000 mile service, just made an appointment for the oil change at 6k miles.
I try not to flash as much as possible.
Note: In the future I am planning to change the oil myself with an extractor but not enough time and I plan to do a road-trip of 4k miles by the end of the year, so wanted to let them check everything prior.
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As the title says I currently have the idiot light on but I can honestly say the ECU might not be adapted yet. what the solution longer O2 spacers etc...?
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Since getting my '07 SE V6 in Oct/2010, I haven't done any tune-up on the whip. It's typically 30,000 miles or 2 years from my understanding on how often a tune up should be performed but you never know.
I'd like to know what exactly getting changed or tinkered with in getting a tune up for Camry and if the benefit was clearly noticeable in certain areas i.e. rough idling or gas mileage.
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I have a 2009 Tig with the APR flash. I had the flash done in 2010 in Edmonton. I have enjoyed it for the last two years. BUT this summer while on vacation the car developed a slight stutter on acceleration. When i reset the computer to stock the stutter goes away. What is failing or how I can repeat it with the stock setting so that the dealer can fix it and I can turn the APR tune back on.
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I had my car tuned up a month ago. The very next day, on cold start, the engine starts stuttering and the rpm got real low to the point where it almost shuts off. On more than one occasion it did shut off. If I press the gas peddle, it revs properly. I thought I'd give it some time to see if it got better, but it hasn't. Yesterday, in the middle of the day (car had been parked for 8 hours), on cold start it did it again (93 degrees outside, so it's not cold weather dependent). It stuttered when I came to the stoplight, and so I put it in park to hit the gas peddle and rev the engine to get it warmer. When I put it back into drive, it stuttered and shut off at the light. It never stuttered prior to the tuneup.
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Any way to use the en-tune system to activate Siri? Or even a wireless siri button you can mount somewhere?
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I recently had the transmission rebuilt on my 2004 Buick Rendezvous. After 150,000 mile and noticeable slipping, it was time. When I got it out of the shop, I noticed that acceleration was sluggish, When you would stomp on it, the engine would start to "bog down" while the RPMs would hit 5000. Took it back into the transmission shop where they checked it out and said transmission is operating fine, but they show an o2 sensor issue. They suggested that it might be this sensor or that it may need a tune up or perhaps just new plugs.I took it into my mechanic and they checked out everything, plugs, fuel filter,and replaced sensor. Afterwards, they said that they get no misfire codes whatsoever, and say the engine runs great. Unfortunately, the acceleration problem did not go away I am stumped. The mechanic says its the transmission; the transmission guys says it's the engine.
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I am trying to run the UM tune on my ecu, getting an error "Failed to get control unit information from the ecu"
I do not have vag-com unfortunately but I don't believe it's currently flashed. If it's already flashed, I can still just over-write the current tune because it's just software from my understanding.
I have no blown fuses, I have already checked them all!
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DSG tune was supposed to set launch control for 4200, 4300 or 4500 rpm launch but the gearbox will not go above 4000 rpm? My tuner has tried 3 different files (4100, 4500, 4600) on my 2009 S3 but the actual launch control rpm is still 4000.
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My 1999 F-150 is having an issue after a tune up; changed coil pack, plugs and wires. It started and ran fine before, but after the tune up it doesn't even crank, just clicks and clunks. I hear a whine from the alternator, but last I checked (a couple days ago), it tested fine so I dunno if it went bad.
I thought it was PATS, but the theft light turns off when the key is in the on position and the fuel pump primes. I dunno if it's the battery, but it tests out OK with my voltage tester (12v+) But it may not have the amps required.
If the coil pack isn't grounded right, like if the platform it's on is corroded, would that cause this issue?
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1996 GMC Sierra SL V6. Owned since new. 100,000 miles, never tuned up. I decided to get a tune up in hopes of increasing mpg, and it was overdue really. New plugs, wires, cap, rotor. Got truck back and it runs rough, knocking, skipping, hesitating, bogging down when trying to accelerate, rough idle. Went from 15.5 mpg, down to about 14 mpg. They said they put in all AC Delco parts. Brought it back to them twice now and they cannot figure out the problem. It ran PERFECTLY before I send it in for a tune up. No problems whatsoever.
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I just had a ton of maintenance done on my 2003 Elantra. Spark plugs & wires, timing belt, drive belts, water pump, replaced coolant and replaced the transmission fluid. The spark plugs are NGK platinum as recommended in my handbook. As soon as the mechanic started the car after the tuneup, the engine light came on with a cam shaft sensor code. He said it went off on its own.
The engine light came back on when I started the car. There's also a major loss of power after coming to a stop. I have to floor it to get it to go anywhere above 20 mph after a stop.
The mechanic said that when he replaced my water pump the liquid splashed all over everything and he thinks he might have gotten something wet that shouldn't have gotten wet and that all will be fine after it dries.
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