Volvo - V90 :: 1997 Wagon Horn Does Not Work
Sep 2, 2012
Suddenly, the horn on my '97 Volvo V90 (wagon - really a 960 wagon) stopped working. The mechanic checked out connections. The only thing he came up with was to get inside the column and see if a wire had come loose. Not only is that wildly expensive, but the air bag issue is a big deal. Finding a junk yard with a wheel, horn and column is impossible for this model. I have to pass inspection soon. Testing in and around the column? And, if after all testing is done, what are the options??
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Is there a fuse or some thing? Can I rig it?
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I have a 1997 Volvo 960 station wagon. It has been sitting in the driveway for 5 months. I went to drive it and it wouldn't start. We jumped it and it ran but wouldn't hold a charge. The battery was about 7 years old so we went and bought a new battery. We took the old battery out and replaced it and now it does nothing. It won't start and there is no sign of power to the car at all.
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"I have a 2001 XC70 WAGON and is making big noise while moving, bigger the speed bigger the noise, engine in idle and in N (while in speed) the same. Could this be because of tires?
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1991 740 Wagon 2.3 I4 with turbocharger and an intercooler.
My rear taillamp brake lights do not come on.
Of the 4 red lights on both taillamp cluster, only bottom two red lights stay on when I turn on the head lights. When I step on brake pedal with both headlights on or off, all 4 read lights do not come on.
I only get the middle small red light on. (which probably means the brake light switch on the pedal is fine.) I do have the lamp malfunction warning on when I turn on the headlamp or signal lights on.
I changed the lamp malfunction relay (big red cylinder) but things are the same. Found the bottom right red light had one of its filament broken so replaced the bulb but things are still the same.
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What is the trick to removing air from the cooling system? Today I replaced the water pump on my daughter's 1990 240 wagon. I filled up the cooling system and believe there is air in the system. The car gets hot immediately, when I squeeze the hoses they feel soft, particularly the lower hose. During the fill procedure, I was not able to find an air valve on the thermostat housing. I suspect there is air in the system causing it not to circulate.
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I just got my 1996 volvo 850 turbo wagon running, after I replaced a valve, lapped all the valves and replaced all valve stem seals/full stage zero(timing belt, plugs, wires, cap, rotor, thermostat). Boy was she a strong runner, for the whole day it was running. I do admit to abusing it quite a bit. But what else would you expect from an 18 year old kid who just rebuilt his first volvo engine ? Now, i will note that the car had horrid previous owners, that took no care of the car(ran it low on oil and who knows what else). I know I ran it out of oil once, on the way home from buying it.....the guy did not put the oil filter on tight enough, and it blew the oil filter seal out. Luckily volvo's have low oil sensors. after i rebuilt the top end my engine was throwing out blue smoke for a while, but i thought it was just a bad turbo bearing.
Anyways, to cut to the chase; My engine sounds like this one. [URL]......
I did a compression check, all cylinders at 180 psi. all my lifters look good. I had a few plugged oil passages in the cam cover, but none that go to the lifters. i pushed on all valve springs, they look good. i used a screwdriver and hammer to check if the valve guides pulled out, and the valves are solid in place. I was still making boost even though the engine was knocking like this, so i know its not a rod bearing, because the knock sensors would have picked up on it and dropped the boost.
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I have a 1981 240 Wagon with 182K miles on it. When I reach 45-55 MPH on the highway the car starts to hum and roar. It is not horrible by any means but it has gotten louder over time and now the car kind of vibrates. At 60mph it stops and quiets down. Now I am unsure if I have a turbo or not and I feel like that could just be the turbo mechanism kicking in but I am not sure.
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One of the rear doors on my 86 wagon won't unlock. The lock button goes up and down, both manually and automatically, but the door won't open and it feels as though it is still locked. I'd rather not cut a hole in the door panel! Perhaps I should have a locksmith get the door open and then I should remove the door panel to lube the locking mechanism? Is there any way to lube things without removing the door panel or consulting a locksmith? I can roll the window up and down.
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I'm a newbie who just took ownership of a 1982 turbo wagon. It's been sitting a while but started right up and ran well for about 20 miles until it began stumbling on acceleration.
The car starts easily and runs smoothly until it gets hot and then it suffers severe hesitation and stumbling. Occasionally it will stall but starts right up again. It has never failed to restart immediately.
On a cool day, it will run smoothly for thirty minutes or more before the problem begins. On a hot day, the problem begins in five minutes.
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I thought my problem of non stop wiper motor was either relay or switch. I found a good working switch and that did not cure the problem. I have yet to find any relay that would control the power to this circuit. There has to be one ...right? If so, where might it be on this 1995 960 Wagon. All of the wiper features work except for "off". Speed controls work, rear works, washer works, etc.
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My 1993 Volvo 940 Turbo Wagon starts and runs great in dry weather, but in wet weather, i.e., after/during rain, in very humid conditions, it has trouble starting and often won't start. The engine turns over but doesn't run. I got it started this morning after opening the hood and cranking it, thinking that the airflow might dry out whatever the issue was, but after driving for 3 minutes it stalled at a stop sign and I had to repeat the process.
A wire to the alternator was recently replaced, which I thought should have stopped the problem, but it didn't. The alternator checks good, and the check engine light is not on.
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I have a 1992 850 Estate (wagon) which has been making a funny noise when driving. I cannot locate it. The noise only happens when driving, I have never herd it when stationary. Most often when cold but not exclusively. I have examined all the items attached to the engine driven by the serpentine belt all run smoothly. The belt was changed just after I bought it.
I have checked the wheel arches to see if the tyres rub but no. The suspension is fairly new with new anti-roll bar links fitted for last MOT. The noise sounds like a dry bearing and is a combination of a rub and a screech, there is no loss of coolant but I suspect the water pump or one of the tensioning rollers to be at fault. The last owner told me that the belt had been changed a few months before I bought the car (off Ebay) but he did not say anything about the rollers or water pump and I did not ask.
One other point is that when I bought the car I had to add a full 5 litres of oil to the sump due to their being no oil on the dip stick. Since then the engine has run well (good engineering) but this noise is happening and as I have said it is driving me nuts.
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Got a 90 740 GLE station wagon (missing its rear muffler at present) that turns over yet doesn't like to start up on the first or second try. It has also stalled out at stop signs, and once when driving. Had a tune up about 3 months ago, new plugs and plug wires, and some welding on the exhaust, but the muffler is still missing. Could the exhaust be causing this in any way? It always eventually starts. Could use a little more power, but, hey, it's a 22 year old car. I'd really like to get this solved, as my ex drives it with my kid. Could this be a fuel pump or fuel filter issue?
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I have a 1994 Volvo 940 non turbo wagon. I just started having issues with the brakes lights and taillights not working. I have checked all the fuses visually and also did a continuity test on each one found all the fuses were good. I have replaced the all the relays, I have replaced the large red relay ( bulb failure relay ) and even did a continuity check on the bulb failure relay pins that are specifically for the rear brake light, everything checked out fine. I hesitate to change the brake light switch because the third brake light is working fine. I have considered replacing the headlight switch due to the taillights won't come on when the lights switch is on. My headlights do work though. There is no light on the dash indicating a bulb is out now since I replaced the third brake light bulb.
1994 Volvo 940 wagon
Non turbo
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My 1996 Volvo 850 Turbo Wagon died in the middle of the freeway last night without any warning...I was driving it home after purchasing it from a private seller who is completely ignoring me now (of course). The car ran fine on the test drive and fine for the 40 or 50 miles on the way back home and then suddenly stepping on the gas did nothing and I had to get off the road immediately. I'm 8 months pregnant so needless to say, I was extremely freaked out.
Anyways, I had it towed home. Today I went out and started it and it was a little bit hesitant but it started. The RPMs were bouncing around below 1000 and the car sounded like it wanted to stall but didn't.
I read online to start it and turn the AC on see what the RPMs do and that this can diagnose an idle control valve that needs replacing. I went out and started the car again, blasted the AC and now the RPMs were staying steady at 1000 and the car no longer sounded like it was about to stall. The RPMs did shoot up passed 2000 once shortly after turning the AC on. I'm assuming this must mean that the idle control valve needs to be replaced.
Someone else had posted about their car (same model/year as mine) would die unexpectedly and in their case it turned out to be the mass air flow sensor. I am really wondering about the fuel pump, fuel pump sensor / relay.
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My 94 850 turbo wagon starts rough and idles very high. the rpms dont come down. After turning car off, wont restart again unless I let in sit for a while.
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I purchased a 1996 850r wagon about a year ago, she has some minor issues and most have been fixed but on my way home the shift arrow started flashing as well as the winter drive light, shut the car off at the store with the intention of looking at it when I got home... car will not start now... cranks over fine but wont light... I dont have access to a reader until next week when it gets returned to me...
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My 1992 240 wagon (injection) is intermittently stalling, and missing. The lambda light is on the dash. Last year it was doing something similar, but not as bad, and I took it to Volvo and they cleaned the throttle body and said it should be ok, and it was for a while, but now it's worse. Ignition parts are mostly new, I doubt it's that. When it stalls it nearly always starts straight away. When it's missing badly but not stalling, pressing the acc peddle does nothing, until it eventually catches on and revs properly.
I also find that when I have a full tank it's not so bad. When the tank was nearly empty it was particularly bad - it's winter and I was suspecting there was condensation in the tank.
Is there a 'backyard' way of getting the error codes? This could be a good start.
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My 1988 240DL wagon....the engine temp gauge is not working? is see the wire that goes to the sensor in the engine block, it is there and connected to the sensor. is there a way to test the wire? I have purchased a new sensor, but I have not replaced it yet.
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I have an '89 740 wagon, Bosch ignition. It will not start. If I spray starter fluid, it will fire, then immediately die. I have replaced already both fuel pumps, noise suppressor/fuel injector relay, fuel pump relays.
I installed a fuse in the fuse box, which was empty when I purchased the car. And the engine instantly died. It did start up when the fuse was removed, and I drove it back across country. The idle got worse until it died and would not start back home.
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