I have a 2004 Volvo v70 (not turbo) with 150,000 miles. After driving the car 5-10 miles, when I slow down to about 10 mph, the car jerks. Acceleration is fine with no apparent transmission slippage. I avoid the jerking by shifting the auto trans into neutral when slowing. It seems like it might be a mount somewhere. Dealer said that it is the beginning of the end of transmission.
View 2 RepliesWhen I slow down to stop my 2008 Sonata it jerks. It is an intermittent issue. The car has 95,000 miles and when I called the dealer I was told they would start with changing the transmission fluid and go from there. I read on some other posts of this same type of issue being fixed by installing the latest software for the transmission, but this was related to 2009 & 2010 Sonatas. Is it possible that installing some new software would work on my 2008?
View 1 RepliesTrans has new solenoids in the trans but is shifting too firm sometimes from 1-2 or 2-3.. It is tolerable going up, but when slowing down it jerks really bad from 2-1. Sounds and feels horrible for the trans and miserable during stop and go traffic. Ive had to switch it to Manual and start off in 2nd gear. Im deleted, with intake, and a custom sct x4 tune. My main question is there any way a new tune could have better shift points?
View 14 RepliesI drive 07'es350 and I have felt jerks while driving usually when accelerating or slowing down from speed. Did check with dealer before for transmission after analysis by technician he said it is perfect, recently read on internet and saw fuel filter can be an issue but when called the dealer he said filter is in gas tank and it is lifelong. Not sure what kind of diagnosis I should do to find the issue.
View 13 RepliesI drive a 2004 Volvo v70 (non turbo). It died on me about 3 times in 5 years on tight turns ((switchback). It hadn't happened for a couple of years but now it has stopped 3 times in the last couple of months. It is very dangerous as the steering stops working and I have to totally stop, put my car in park and restart.
View 2 RepliesI own a 1992 Volvo 740 wagon, non-turbo. Super solid car up until a month ago when it developed a grinding sound and vibration when slowing down from 15-0 mph. There is no noise or pulsating at any other speed when I apply the brakes. This happens with tranny in N or D. I replaced the front rotors and pads about a month before this started happening.
I suspected the rear brakes so I also replaced the rotors and pads but I was still getting that grinding/ vibration. The next thing was to replace the hub/bearing assembly, I only did the drivers side because I banged it up pretty bad when replacing the rotors. This also had no effect on the grinding. I also noticed that when driving at moderate to fast speed I hear a humming noise, almost like big truck tires make. This is especially noticeable when letting off the gas and coasting. Could this be a tranny issue?
Hear a thump when slowing down or coming to complete stop? Thump doesn't happen every time but sounds louder sometimes and doesn't always seem to be in the same area of the ceiling.
View 2 RepliesTransmission Problems in 2001 Volvo XC70 with 123k... A year ago, I had the input and output speed sensors replaced after the service light came on indicating a transmission problem. The transmission has always made a clunking sound and now it is having a hard time shifting from 1st to 2nd and 2nd to 3rd when doing city driving for a while. It jerks significantly when it finally shifts. It is usually fine in the morning on my 3 mile commute but if I am running around town or after coming off of the highway, it has a hard time shifting. The book states only to have the transmission fluid changed every 52,500 if you use the car to tow which I do not. Should I just give it up and get a new car as everyone I know is recommending? I love this car and otherwise it is in beautiful shape.
View 3 RepliesWhat are the correct timing marks and positions for a Volvo 940 Turbo? I especially need the position of the crankshaft pulley. I have read the timing mark is on the cover, but unfortunately mine has dry rotted and crumbled away.
View 1 RepliesI have a 2006 Scion Tc, its a manual and 2.4L engine. It has about 75,000 miles on it and everything in it is stock. I have recently changed my ac compressor due to the old one went out. It was properly drained and recharged after I replaced it with a brand new one. It has been working great since, but I noticed in the past couple days that if im driving and I put the car in neutral while still moving (to save gas) my RPM's will shoot down (like normal) but then it will start bouncing up/down until I come to a complete stop. Once im a complete stop the RPM will stabilize again like if there was no problem. Take in mind that in im getting of the highway coming to a stop light I will put the car in neutral and begin to slowly brake, the clutch is not engaged nor im I stepping on the gas. Why would my RPM's go up and down. also the AC was not on and the RPM will not do this while driving.
View 14 RepliesSo, the R is my first stick car and I've only been driving stick for 5-6 months now. I know that smoothness comes with time. I feel pretty comfortable with my skills overall (still have some issue with hill starts and smooth starts in general). Wen I don't know what I'm doing wrong when it comes to upshifting from 1st to 2nd. All other shifts are smooth.
When I try to shift normally, the car jerks. So, I tried releasing the clutch slower, this gets rid of the jerk but it bogs the engine. I've tried various things like getting back on the gas a little sooner, or pausing/slowing down the clutch release through the engagement point but I just can't seem to figure out what works and what doesn't. Is this just an issue of a larger gear ratio gap, rev hang, or what?
I bought a set of stop tech rotors drilled and slotted. After having them on for about 5k miles I'm getting vibrations when I'm slowing down so I'm guessing they are warped already. Any better crossed drilled rotor for a decent price that won't end up like the stop tech rotors.
View 9 RepliesI have a 2001 BMW 330i with 218,000 miles on it. When I am driving it and am slowing down and take it out of gear sometimes the car dips down to 400 or 500 rpm and the car shudders ,not all the time, but often and then bounces back up to 700 or so where the idle should be. I've had the throttle sensor and throttle body replaced. I also had the CATs replaced recently due to the sensor saying they were basically plugged, which I thought might be the problem with the throttle, but didn't cure it.
View 3 RepliesMy AC is slowing down and needed diagnostics. Fan system is fine. So I hooked up my manifold guage set from HF and got 90 on both high and low static, and 35/175 under load. Temp was 83 Fahrenheit with 36% humidity.
My diagnosis - refrigerant low. (i.e. low/low)
So what kind of quantity can I assume I'm down? Do these german ac run on the high side? I'm going to pour in the PAG 46 myself through the yellow line, and that runs roughly 5 to 1 to the refrigerant. NO SEALANT. Just a 12 ounce can of 134a and 3 ounces of PAG 46.
Just to verify - it is PAG 46 for the 2004 Jetta 2.0 GLS?
In stop and go traffic , it happened twice today, I slow down almost to a stop and accelerate, the RPM goes way above 5000, it seems it holds in gear 1 or 2 can't be sure and does not want to shift. I had to shift using paddle shifter. Is this a real problem or am I doing something wrong. ?
View 6 RepliesI have a 2009 Camry v6 and having trouble while driving and you take your foot off the pedal like coming to a red light and give it gas between 25-35 mph the transmission jerks pretty hard?
View 14 RepliesI did some Autocross today and it was fun as always, but my launches had some serious issues. I seem to bog down no matter what RPM I launch at. I did not go particularly high, but I launched from 3500 to 4500. When drag racing, I was launching around 5000. I did not think that was correct for launching for autocross, but who knows. I know that the video is not that great, but the boging is very noticeable as the car jerks up and down. It just loses momentum and RPMs drop. BTW, I have a VF Stg II, stock clutch and ESP was off. Even with the issues, my best time was near the top. [URL].................
View 21 RepliesCar Jerks when a/c is on and acceleration becomes jam power steering and brakes becomes harder then normal situation (a/c is off). Why? I have Camry Prominent 2.5L 1992 model.
View 4 RepliesYesterday I jump on the freeway, shift to 5th and the whole car jerks. Happened again later that night. After that I was more focused when shifting to 5th and it hasn't done it since. Could it be this B&M short shifter that the last owner installed? I also noticed since day one that when the car is cold it doesn't like going into first sometimes, meaning I can't throw it all the way to the left and then up to get to first. It's more like a little to the left and then up but when the car is warmed up I can throw it all the way to the left.
View 3 RepliesI have a 2006 Hyundai Sonata GLS V6. Recently the area I live in received 2 feet of snow and ice. I of course cleaned off all the snow and ice and started her up. I didn't drive anywhere that day since the roads were not clear. The next day I drove 15 minutes and upon reaching my destination's parking lot, the Sonata went into a jerking motion.
It seemed as if it wanted to stall out, like I was driving a manual. However it's an automatic. I stopped the car, and later when I went to leave it did it again. Once I got out of the parking lot and above speeds of 20 mph everything was fine. No more jerking motion.
The next day, after some time driving it does it again. My car never actually "stalls" or shuts off, it just jerks and once I can press the gas and go, it stops.
There are no odors or sounds and the car only does the jerking motion sometimes.
I have a 2012 Hyundai Santa Fe Gls. I noticed that the car jerks while driving. It stumbles when you slow down. The vehicles feels like it lags power like something is holding it back. I noticed that the gas mileage is bad. What's wrong with it? Is it something fuel related?
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