Volvo - V70 :: ETS / Oil And Check Engine Lights On
Jul 17, 2012
My volvo is running fine but the ETS Light, OIL light and Check Engine LIght are constantly coming on and off intermittently. In March of 2011 the independent volvo specialist cleaned the throttle body and a cracking turbo hose. In September 2011 the dealership recommended to replace the dipstick tube and to reseal angle gear. In October 2011 the dealership tech notes possible internal failure to the transmission shift solenois, oil pump seals and an internal failure to the electronic throttle module. Recently I had the oil and filter changed and the check engine light reset but days later the lights all are back on. I am unable to smog the car until these light issues are resolved.
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I own a 2002 Volvo S40 Turbo with the following problem. Every now and then the "Check Engine" light comes on. Then, when I turn the ignition off, the car shakes violently for several minutes. Last time this happened, I took the car to the dealer, and the computer diagnostics came up with this message: ECM-44 MISSFIRE, EMMISSION LEVEL, FAULTY SIGNAL INTERMITTENT FAULT. What is wrong, and how it can be fixed?
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I have an '03 S60 - nonturbo with 239,000 miles. I've never had any performance problems with the car.
Here is the situation - The check engine light has gone on 3 times in about the last 2 months. It just happened for a fourth time today. Each time it's exactly, almost exactly the same distance from home, from a cold start on a hot day.
Same code each time. I don't remember what it was - something to do with the air mass meter - it was on the paperwork from the dealer that I can't find right now.
First time the code came on was two days after getting the air filter changed so I suspected they didn't assemble the air filter case properly. I brought it into the mechanic. They recommended pressure cleaning the throttle body and changing the air mass meter. I opted not to do it and they just reset the light.
Second time I remember putting oil and an oil additive in (Lukas oil) to top off the oil in the car before I left.
Brought it back to the dealer and when I spoke to the mechanic at the dealership.He said I could do the throttle body cleaning and change the meter, but that wasn't the problem. He warned of some sort of internal engine problem suggesting that an oil path from the top to the bottom of the engine is clogged and causing some sort of other ambiguous issue in the engine.
Btw according to the car computer it gets 31 miles to the gallon.
Third time- I topped the car off with oil (cheap 7-11 oil). I drove the same distance and the light went on.
The second two times the light went off on its own.
Fourth time just happened on a quick errand. Car had been sitting for about 3 hours since it last ran. When I ran it earlier today I didn't have the light come on.
I should note that several years ago (at about 180,000) the engine had some sort of check valve at the back of the engine replaced twice because it was whistling.(With the whistling the check engine light did not go on). The second time it was replaced they did an oil cleaning procedure that cleaned the oil path from the top to the bottom of the engine.
Is this really a devastating engine problem? What's going on?
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I have a 2002 volvo S60 2.4T that I just had the check engine light come on so I pulled the codes and here is what I found,
PO403
PO611
P1378
P2623
So my question is what does this mean ? what is wrong ?
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Just bought my volvo several days ago. It was throwing check engine codes so I had it scanned and it came down to a vacuum leak. I found the spot where it was leaking which was a little piece to the left and slightly behind the exhaust manifold, slightly behind and beneath the thermostat housing. It went from a hard plastic vacuum line, to a 1.5 inch rubber vacuum line which plugged into a nipple on the exhaust manifold or something behind the manifold. the rubber section had 3 large holes in it, so i replaced it with more rubber vacuum line. same length and same inner diameter.
What I did notice when I replaced it was that it was too large for the plastic line, slid on way too easy, but i had to fight it onto the nipple. The check engine codes went away for 2 days(I drove about 150 miles over that time) but today, the check engine light came back on, went to auto zone, had them scan it, came back with vacuum leak. So when I got home, I popped the hood, sprayed some carb cleaner by the replacement vacuum job I did, and sure enough the idle changed. What the proper replacement hose is for that area?
[URL] ....
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I have a 92 Volvo 240 (250k) with EGR (California car). I live in Alabama, no EGR needed here. There is check engine code that points to the EGR. It has been exhibiting all the symptoms of a defective EGR for quite a spell, check engine light just showing up recently.
Should I clean it, replace it ...or just take it off entirely. If I remove it, what needs to be done with that removal (such as ECU adjustment, replacement)?
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1994, 960 ... The vacuum controller has two "vacuum lines" attached to it. Should both lines have vacuum present? I keep getting a 241 code with sporadic idle and check engine light.
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The Check Engine Light is on. Diagnostic Codes: P0722, P1618, and P1633. Do these mean the output speed sensor/connector wires should be replaced? Is this a DIY job?
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My mothers 2004 Volvo S40 (original body style) has an illuminated check engine light. Dad took it to their local dealer. Unable to get a code from the cars computer and guessing the problem might be with the fuel filler cap seal, the dealer sold them a new fuel filler cap, offering them a refund on the cap should that solution not work. It did not.
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I have a 2007 XC90 3.2 RWD with around 112,800 miles.
On acceleration, there is a rattle (not a valve knocking) that gets quieter once a steady cruise is achieved. At idle in gear, a very quiet rattle can be heard. When transmission is slipped into neutral, the rattle goes away. The engine shifts normally, accelerates normally and gas mileage is steady at around 20.5 mpg (mixed city and highway). I am using 93 octane gas. This week the check engine light came on.
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2004 XC90 T6. Local Volvo dealer (Bangkok at the time) said my check engine light was due to the O2 sensors going bad. I changed out the one under the car, then my wife threw out (accident) the other so I didn't change the one accessible from the hood. The check engine light went away so I figured that was that.
Fast forward a year later, I buy an Autel Maxiscan MS509 and now I'm getting check engine code P0455 which is probably the O2 sensors I didn't replace. Other than deductive reasoning, is there some way to look at the data on my OBD reader to confirm which O2 sensor is bad?
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My wife started her 2010 Camry (4 cylinder) this morning and the Oil Pressure, Check Engine, and Check Battery lights were all on.
She turned the car off, waited and started it back on and the same thing.
I rushed our kid to day care and her to work before coming to work myself, I haven't had a chance to check anything.
I replaced the air filter and cabin air filter over the weekend and the oil was changed at the dealer 2 weeks ago.
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Issues with check engine light coming on and staying on. The dealer says it is either a gas cap problem or the type of gas being put in the car. Dealer recommends only using Shell fuel. The car drives fine and am wondering if this might be sensitive fuel detection.
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I have a 92 volvo 240 and have recently got a check engine light. I got a code reading of #241 on number 6 terminal. What that means and how to correct this problem?
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We bought a new 2012 Volvo XC 70 wagon. It only has 6,000 miles on it and the Check oil light has gone on three times. Each time it has required approximately one quart (which the dealer claims is "within specs" for this engine). I believe it satisfies the lemon law criteria in PA since it has been back to the shop three times in less than a year. Should I insist on a replacement or is this "normal" wear for this car.
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I bought a 2005 Volvo V70 with 75,500 miles on Nov. 13. On Nov. 15, the check engine light went on, and I returned to the dealership for a solenoid replacement. The check engine light went on again on Nov. 17, oil pan replaced. On Nov. 19, the light went on again, timing belt replaced. On Nov. 22, the light went on again. Each time the code was the same--sometimes in conjunction with other codes--but one code was consistent. We returned the car on Nov. 22 and asked for a refund in keeping with the Massachusetts lemon law (an attempt at repair 3+ times). The dealer refused, saying the check engine light and computer code were not the same as an attempted repair. He took the car and said he was going to call Volvo Tech in. However, he says the light "went off" and never came back on even though his staff has test driven it 170 miles in the past three days. He's "releasing our car" to us, even though he has made no repair. Tell me--is trying to address the same computer code considered a "repair"?
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2001 volvo s40. Diagnostics performed. Error codes for the timing belt and temperature sensor. These were replaced. The check engine light still comes on/stays on.
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I had a Check Engine Light a couple months ago, and I took the car to the garage to have it checked out. They told me they got a Fuel Pressure Sensor malfunction code, and that the sensor had to be replaced. I did so myself, an it is ridiculously easy, and the car worked fine. I noticed the Check Engine Light blinked a couple of times while I was driving, but never got steady. A couple of days ago, it did. Out of a bad gut-feeling, I purchased a ODBII scanner, and I scanned the car myself. I got the same error code as the garage did, but the sensor should be fine.
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When I start engine usually your dashboard light turn on, eng, seatbelts, etc. but that doesn't happens, but engines starts for awhile and than you see the volt indicator drawing negative. And after few minutes of running it dies and will not start, battery is dead, I believe there is a short circuit or a relay problem....
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I just joined this forum some minutes ago, I own of a 2004 XC90 T6 AWD, delivered to me a couple to days ago, just barely getting to know the car, hear a knocking sound from the front passenger seat when i drive on rough roads, and this morning check engine warning sign remained on while driving out, had to park the car at home.
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It all started after I refueled at Mobil after a rainstorm a month ago. Could be coincidence, but right after that the car started jerking wildly and making a howling wind noise from the front. Thought it was the transmission. Brought to Lexus dealership, they told me nothing was wrong as I had low mileage on the car. There are NO Check Engine lights on the dashboard. Car "quieted down" after that, but the noise remains EXCEPT at high speed when it's quiet.
In addition to that, the jerking / misfiring continues at stops, reversing, and slower speeds on occasion only.
I tried Techron FI cleaner, but it has not made a difference. Filled up several times since then.
What's wrong?
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