Volvo - V70 :: Dies When Slowing On Tight Turns
Aug 2, 2014
I drive a 2004 Volvo v70 (non turbo). It died on me about 3 times in 5 years on tight turns ((switchback). It hadn't happened for a couple of years but now it has stopped 3 times in the last couple of months. It is very dangerous as the steering stops working and I have to totally stop, put my car in park and restart.
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I have a 2002 volvo v70 xc just had the passenger side strut replaced and now every time i make a sharp turn usually in reverse to the left my driver side wheel makes a horrible popping sound. It will also make said sound sitting still and turning the wheel same direction very sharply. Could this possibly be from when i had it worked on? They originally told me i needed new control arm bushings then decided i needed a new strut. Could they have possibly messed with anything that could have caused this?
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I have a 95 Volvo 850 2.2 L (non-turbo.) I recently replaced the fuel pump, and filter. Now when I try to start the engine, it turns over and sputters before it dies. I let it sit for about 10 minutes and try again with the same results and the same with a longer wait time due to having to charge my battery. I have checked the fuel lines and they seem to be clear, up to the fuel rail. I also checked the plugs and although they need to be replaced, after sanding and re-gaping them, there is plenty of spark. The plug wires and distributor cap are fairly new, and the points look good. So the only problem I see as logical, is the fuel rail, pressure regulator, and injectors. I have bled the fuel rail at the shrader valve, and I am getting little to no fuel from it. I want to remove the injectors and rail, and check out the regulator along with the rest. But how do I tell if the regulator is good, and what is the best way to clean injectors so they will at least last till I can replace them with new?
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1994 grand cherokee when making tight turns as in parking lots or backing out of tight spots, knock knock knocks until wheels are straightened and only while in motion could this be u-joints, by the way this jeep is all time 4-wheel drive
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It's not entirely repeatable but only happens on tight left turns under deceleration such as a u-turn or turning left into a parking spot. The noise is a continuous whirring like a bit of plastic is rubbing the front passenger tire tread and continues for a moment even as I straighten the wheel out. I'm going to take the wheel off tomorrow to change my brake fluid and will take a closer look then. I'm on stock suspension and wheels.
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I'm new to the 2G and noticed a wheel shudder or jump when turning a tight circle in low temps? I'll try to list out all the info I can:
The shudder was exactly like a 4x4 vehicle in low range/diff-lock when turning on dry pavement.
Going straight or slight turns only, nothing noticeable. ( I was paying attention)
200k miles, just bought the car and haven't changed the WS atf yet.
Temps in the -25°C/-10°F range ....
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Looking for pictorial descriptions / videos on how to replace the CV axles on 2011-14 Sonata 2.4? Mine starts developing clicking noise under tight turns about 10k miles ago but the boots are absolutely fine. I just hope to buy some time on it before I can confidently replace those axles myself as I only have limited cash.
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97 Outback, 143 K, auto. 2.2. When in a tight turn in a parking lot or doing a U turn, the car lurches, like my p.u. does when in 4 wheel drive. Not as strongly, but it does not feel right. There is no CV joint noise, tires seem equally worn. The seller says it is tires, my experience with 5 different soobs says no and I never carefully match tire wear, ( I do not replace all 4)If it is not tires, what might it be?
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Spring has arrived and the whoop-de-dues are reminding me that the suspension in my 2013 passat tdi is rather soft. it rides great on a smooth highway but i would be curious if there is a way to change the suspension so that it 'floats' less on uneven pavement and in tight turns?
My goals would be:
1. float less on uneven pavement
2. track flatter and smoother in tight turns at speed
3. maintain highway comfort or dam close to it (99% of my driving)
4. remain at stock height (i am not lowering this car up here!)
It may not be possible to achieve all of this but at this point i do not know what is possible or what the pros and cons are of any suggested changes. A quick search of 'tdi suspension' on vwvortex gave me a few hits but mostly for golf and jettas.
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We have a 2003 Subaru Legacy named Penny. Lately she's been "thumping" when we make slow tight turns -- usually when pulling into or out of a parking spot. This is less of a noise, more of a sensation. Thumping and bumping as if the front tires are flat, but that's not the case. To complicate matters, it doesn't seem to happen first thing in the morning. Starts showing up after a drive of 30 - 40 minutes and continues to get worse the longer we drive throughout the day. Driving straight is fine, less sharp turns also fine. Mechanic guessed axle and replaced both front axles last week. But the problem persists. We are independent musicians, traveling often, and NEED this car to drive reliably!
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When I drive in a parking lot or parking garage and start off into a slow, tight corner, I feel a "surge". If I had a locked diff I would understand. I have a Haldex composition controller. I am not bothered about it...just wondering what it could be. Maybe the clutch slipping?? No evidence of that at full throttle acceleration runs in the higher gears.
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I have a 2004 Volvo v70 (not turbo) with 150,000 miles. After driving the car 5-10 miles, when I slow down to about 10 mph, the car jerks. Acceleration is fine with no apparent transmission slippage. I avoid the jerking by shifting the auto trans into neutral when slowing. It seems like it might be a mount somewhere. Dealer said that it is the beginning of the end of transmission.
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I own a 1992 Volvo 740 wagon, non-turbo. Super solid car up until a month ago when it developed a grinding sound and vibration when slowing down from 15-0 mph. There is no noise or pulsating at any other speed when I apply the brakes. This happens with tranny in N or D. I replaced the front rotors and pads about a month before this started happening.
I suspected the rear brakes so I also replaced the rotors and pads but I was still getting that grinding/ vibration. The next thing was to replace the hub/bearing assembly, I only did the drivers side because I banged it up pretty bad when replacing the rotors. This also had no effect on the grinding. I also noticed that when driving at moderate to fast speed I hear a humming noise, almost like big truck tires make. This is especially noticeable when letting off the gas and coasting. Could this be a tranny issue?
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I'm having a problem with my mom's 2005 Accent. It starts up just fine when cold, and will run for 15-20 minutes just fine, sometimes longer. Then, usually as you're slowing down, the engine just turns off. No bogging, no sputter, just turns off as if someone turned the key. Sometimes it will start back right back up, more often, it will need to sit for 30 seconds to a minute, and then it will fire back up. After that, all bets are off. Sometimes it will run again for 10-15 minutes, sometimes it will idle rough and die. I'm leaning towards a coil pack, but I'm sick of throwing parts at this. The last time I got it to idle roughly, it threw a random misfire, and cylinder 1, 2, and 4 misfire codes. I've changed out (in rough order) MAP sensor, the fuel pump (no fuel filter in this model), TPS (threw code for this), spark plugs, and most recently the Crankshaft Position Sensor. I'm not sure how to test the coil packs.
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I drive a 2004 Toyota Matrix SRX, It has a 6 speed manual gearbox. Sometimes when I am driving and i push the clutch whether to decelerate or when I'm sitting at a stop light the car dies. It seems like when the engine is slowing down it sometimes doesn't catch itself to idle and just dies.
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car revs real high sometimes, other times just won't idle for long with out dying. getting harder to restart after it dies.have changed fuel sensors, oxygen sensors, throttle sensor,mass /map sensor. Whats going on with my car!
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Hear a thump when slowing down or coming to complete stop? Thump doesn't happen every time but sounds louder sometimes and doesn't always seem to be in the same area of the ceiling.
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My 2001 volvo S60 starts then dies.
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My daughter has a 89 740GL that has an issue where after about 10 minutes or so of running it just quits. Shes a new driver so it really scares her when it happens. I read that it could be the FI relay; nope I replaced that and it does run better, but after awhile with me driving it to make sure shes good, it died!
Started right back up, but died nonetheless.
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I have a 99 Volvo V70. Sometimes when I start it, it turns over and then dies right away. It may do it once, or it may do it several times, but it will start start eventually. I am bringing it in to the garage next week, but they don't seem to think they will be able to fix it unless it happens while the car is in the garage. Since it doesn't happen every day, I'm worried that they won't be able to fix the problem. If so, why did your car die right after starting?
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My 2005 Dodge Ram (53,000 miles) will sometimes die while I'm making a left turn, or when I'm moving slowly in a parking lot.I get the oil change regularly and asked my mechanic to checkinto it. He. thought it has something to do with using cheaper gas, so I started buying the more expensive gas but it is still doing it. This is scary when it happens because not only do I suddenly slow down, but the power steering goes out and I have to muscle it around the turn.
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