Volvo - V70 :: 2005 - Check Engine Light Keeps Coming On / One Code Was Consistent
Nov 27, 2013
I bought a 2005 Volvo V70 with 75,500 miles on Nov. 13. On Nov. 15, the check engine light went on, and I returned to the dealership for a solenoid replacement. The check engine light went on again on Nov. 17, oil pan replaced. On Nov. 19, the light went on again, timing belt replaced. On Nov. 22, the light went on again. Each time the code was the same--sometimes in conjunction with other codes--but one code was consistent. We returned the car on Nov. 22 and asked for a refund in keeping with the Massachusetts lemon law (an attempt at repair 3+ times). The dealer refused, saying the check engine light and computer code were not the same as an attempted repair. He took the car and said he was going to call Volvo Tech in. However, he says the light "went off" and never came back on even though his staff has test driven it 170 miles in the past three days. He's "releasing our car" to us, even though he has made no repair. Tell me--is trying to address the same computer code considered a "repair"?
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1994, 960 ... The vacuum controller has two "vacuum lines" attached to it. Should both lines have vacuum present? I keep getting a 241 code with sporadic idle and check engine light.
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2004 XC90 T6. Local Volvo dealer (Bangkok at the time) said my check engine light was due to the O2 sensors going bad. I changed out the one under the car, then my wife threw out (accident) the other so I didn't change the one accessible from the hood. The check engine light went away so I figured that was that.
Fast forward a year later, I buy an Autel Maxiscan MS509 and now I'm getting check engine code P0455 which is probably the O2 sensors I didn't replace. Other than deductive reasoning, is there some way to look at the data on my OBD reader to confirm which O2 sensor is bad?
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I have a 92 volvo 240 and have recently got a check engine light. I got a code reading of #241 on number 6 terminal. What that means and how to correct this problem?
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Issues with check engine light coming on and staying on. The dealer says it is either a gas cap problem or the type of gas being put in the car. Dealer recommends only using Shell fuel. The car drives fine and am wondering if this might be sensitive fuel detection.
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I had a Check Engine Light a couple months ago, and I took the car to the garage to have it checked out. They told me they got a Fuel Pressure Sensor malfunction code, and that the sensor had to be replaced. I did so myself, an it is ridiculously easy, and the car worked fine. I noticed the Check Engine Light blinked a couple of times while I was driving, but never got steady. A couple of days ago, it did. Out of a bad gut-feeling, I purchased a ODBII scanner, and I scanned the car myself. I got the same error code as the garage did, but the sensor should be fine.
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It came on yesterday and went out on it's own today then came back on later. The code is PO354. the manual says the "D" ignition coil primary is open or has a problem. I don't believe it because the engine runs fine. Opinions?
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The check engine light has been coming on and off over the last month...SO, I replaced the MAF which I thought was the code 17550. After a couple hundred miles the check engine light came on again. SAME code, 17550 again...my tech is baffled.
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I have a CEL on my 2007 Avalon so I decided to take it to Autozone to get a scan. Error code P0015 was returned. This code has to do with B Camshaft Position, Timing Over Retarded (Bank 1). I've done a little research and I've read that this could possibly from a dirty screen on the Oil Control Valve, the OCV itself, or the Cam Position Sensor. Before replacing parts, what I would like to do first is to check/clean the screen on the OCV. Secondly, I would like to swap the Cam Position Sensor to a different bank and see if the other bank throws an error. If the other bank throws an error, then I know the sensor is bad and needs to be replaced. With this said, I am having trouble locating the OCV and CPS. Where the valve and sensor is located. A diagram would be useful.
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I replaced the water pump. Huge problem. I will get rid of the car before I replace that again. But, it is replaced and the car is functioning.
Unfortunately, the check engine light remains on and I still get p0327(knock sensor) code and car has a slight ruff run.I have the Actron code reader(fairly cheap, but effective) and it will clear the vsc but not the check engine. Upon restart, the check engine light reappears in 7 seconds followed by the vsc symbol. This has been for a week now. So I have been dreading tackling this project next. But I figure if I'm doing this, I better change the rear plugs and maybe the rear coil packs as well.
Don't want to do this, but whether I do it or send it to the dealership, once is all I'm gonna do. I say all of this and yesterday, the check engine light goes away on its own and full power is back and ruff run gone.
I still plan to go into the engine this year because my car just hit 120,000 miles and i have to change my plugs. If it recurs, I will change it all. I will just wait. Only going in once.
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I am having a hard time getting the low EGR flow check engine code to clear. The EGR valve and tube from the exhaust manifold were replaced, the wiring harness verified, the passage channel between the EGR valve and the intake manifold cleaned out...but the check engine light remains... what to try next?
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I was going to look into getting a replacement EGR valve from AutoZone, which I did. After installing the valve and on my way to reset the check engine light, it went away and has not come back.
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I bought a 2005 Camry 4cyl yesterday and realized today that the check engine light was not coming on when turning the ignition on. I put my dtc tool on the car and got these codes. Getting P0300 ,P0303, p0304 & p0012 . Not sure where to start looking.
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where best place to start looking for what's causing p0442 code on my 2005 rx330? and its not the gas cap... also have a "c" code identified for the VSC light, states that its wheel speed sensor. evidently wrote the wrong code down, i had it listed as a c1290 but in looking them up i couldn't find that one.
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My 2005 Camry check engine light is on. The trouble code is P0138, bank 1 sensor 2 oxygen sensor. Engine is the 2AF-ZE. Not a California emission car. Car is Japan built. It has two O2 sensors. What is the correct OEM part #? I believe it would be a Denso?
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So, I have my check engine light and the code is p0327 (knock sensor). Clear cose but it returns. Going on for 3 days now. I was suspicious that something else is going on. I also remembered I've been using a little more antifreeze in the reservoir. So, today I needed to watch the coolant. I ran the car for an hr and I found a lot. Red coolant on my belt, the back passenger side of my engine and it was caked on with coolant. I think the water pump is going up.
I was concerned that coolant was also leaking from the intake manifold but it's only the right side, so I'm pretty sure the coolant is being slung around from the belt. I rinsed the engine down and the knock sensor code went away. Temporarily, until more coolant got back there. Do you think I will need to replace the knock sensor along with the water pump or should the sensor work ok after some intense cleaning after the water pump replacement?
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My 2005 Dodge Dokota 4.7L V8 152,000 miles has an intermittent check engine light (CEL) code P0420 ('catalylst efficiency') that turns itself off.
1) 151,000 CEL on, code P0420, checked, cleared at dealer.
2) 151,948 CEL on, code P0420, checked, cleared at dealer (Cat Conv).
3) 152,200 CEL on, code P0420, checked, cleared at local auto parts store.
4) 152,597 CEL on. No checks.
5) 152,815 CEL turned off on its own
6) 152,849 CEL on. No checks.
7) 153,137 CEL turned off on its own.
Twice in this time CEL has came on soon after a fill up from near empty.
Engine runs fine, 18-19 mpg highway.
Have seen numerous on-line reports of other possible causes:
a) base engine problems (coolant or oil) -- coolant temp sensor
b) Air inleakage -- air systems or manifold
c) Lazy front O2 sensor
d) fuel pumps
e) timing or misfire
f) what else? - (gas cap, other...)
What to check first or categories to eliminate?
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Got these codes after my check engine light came on.Cleared the light with my OBD2 scanner several time but it kept coming back on. One week at the dealer who replaced a 'sensor' after vegging it and talking to the VW Tech line! Light came back on the same day I picked up the Touareg from the dealer :confused. Dealer thinking about what to do next.
2007 FSI V8 Touareg...
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From time to time, the engine lights comes on with error code P0365, it usually disappears within two days (it disappears by itself), but it appears once per month and stays for two days.
The code scanner says :P0365 Camshaft Position Sensor B Circuit Malfunction (Bank 1)
Do I need to change the sensor? and where is it located?
my Sonata is 2009, 2.0L (Korean imported) 4 cylinder ...
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My car's an 04 Mitsubishi Lancer ES, 4-cyl, 2.0L. So long story short, my check-engine light has been coming up every now and again for the last couple months with the code P0421, which a shop has confirmed I need a new manifold catalytic converter for (they ruled out any problems with O2 sensors).
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I have a 99 Ford Explorer - w/217k miles. (2nd owner) .. I got an oil change 3 weeks ago, tune up 2 mos ago, and new brakes/tires within the last 6 mos, oh, and Brother-In-Law just recharged my a/c last week.
Runs well, and I hope to keep it for another few years, but having problem lately.
Check Engine light keeps coming on - I've taken it in, and they read the code, and it comes up with a misfire. Mechanic resets it, and it will stay off for a few days/weeks, and then comes back on.
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