Volvo - V70 :: 2001 - Sensors Malfunction - Show Different Incorrect Messages
Nov 30, 2011
I have some problems with my 2001 Volvo V70 about its light sensors and tailgate sensor.
Starting from this spring, every time when I turned the right-turn signal light on, the bulb fail message will pop up in the dashboard even though there is no bulb failing. Also, it starts to state that my tailgate is not closed while I drive it during the sunny day.. (That means, it will become normal during the raining day...) The problem that accompanies with the tailgate issue is the cargo light sensor malfunctioning. Sometimes it light up all the day while driving, sometimes will not turn-on at all; but sometimes work normal during the raining day.
What could be the core of these problems? I don't want to take it to the repair shop for a whole day, and still can not find out the issue..
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Both the wife and I have the iPhone. Series 5. Both paired ez to the Lexus. I wanted to check out how messaging worked..so I message her while on her way to work. She said the music quit playing but didn't notice anything on the screen. Is there a setting I have to change/activate to have the message show on screen?
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I had an android phone prior and everything worked great. Got calls, texts, and music streaming all working all the time.
Then I swapped over to an iPhone 6 and I can no longer see incoming text messages. I'll hear the alert through my car speakers but nothing comes up on the navi screen. I Googled and people said you have to unsync it, then resync it a few times to get it to work. But I haven't been successful.
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Parking assist & sensors for back is working and show alert in screen but no sound alarm. I need to get more information about the car i just buy it....
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I live in the Cleveland area and we got pelted with snow yesterday. For the most part, the car did great. Great traction and visibility while driving on low lit roads...It was only 28 degrees so it threw the warning for black ice which caught me off guard lol.
Then as I'm going to stop I hear beep beep beep beep beep!!!!
The parking sensors start saying there's something in front of me within inches....yet there's nothing within 50 feet. Every time I went under 10mph it kept doing this...well I got home and see that a small layer of snow was covering the sensors. Granted I can turn off the beeping and such but in a place like Cleveland there's usually a ton of snow and I can see this getting annoying really fast. This is my third car with parking sensors and the only one to react to a tiny layer of snow....
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About 3 months ago the check engine light came on. Scanner read rear o2 sensor and it was replaced. After about 100 miles CEL returned. This time it is the front o2 sensor. It was replaced and CEL returned after about 70 miles. Reading was same exact sensor and it was replaced again but same reading returned after about 80 miles. Now the scan is reading P1132 which is MAF sensor. Car is running a little rougher and starting a little harder. What can solve the problem? I have a rejection sticker on my car.
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So I just got a 96 850 GLT sedan knowing it had some work to be done. Gas gauge, odo, and trip don't function. Its not yet on the road but next week when it is registered I'm hoping to have this fixed.
Now the gas gauge does go all the way down when car is off, but when started it barely gets off E. The low fuel light goes on only sometimes. The trip is stuck on 0 and the odo stuck as well. Without these 3 working no way of knowing fuel level.
Also the guy I bought it from said after he did the brakes the ABS and trac off lights came on. they did go off for like 5 mins on the ride home but came back on. I switched from economy to sport mode on the way(don't know if that is related). The service light comes on and off as it pleases. The thing needs new cv joints as well! I'm hoping this is all I find!
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I have a 1986 Volvo 240. It has a button to push on the stick shift to put it in 5th gear. It drives and works fine except when I downshift from 5th gear. ..then it seems confused and has a hard time getting back into gear, it kind of hesitates and lurches forward. It will not go into reverse after it has been in 5th gear until I turn off the ignition, and start it again.
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I have a 2001 Ranger 4.0, 4x4 that just hit 100k and the oil pressure gauge doesn't show a reading for about 1 minute after startup. Also, the check gauge light comes on. What do I replace to fix this and is it something I can do myself? I am mildly handy. Would you worry about fixing it or just let it go because it's obviously getting oil pressure.
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I have a 2001 F150 Supercrew (5.4 V8, 2WD,Auto trans) and recently when we fill the gas tank, the fuel tank doesn't go all the way up to the "full" line. Don't know if this matters but: about a year 1/2 ago in a little town (while on vacation), we broke down and the trouble was the fuel pump. The little town did have a small auto-parts store, and luckily had the fuel pump we needed. Unfortunately we didn't have much as far as tools and we wound up tearing/cutting the filler hose and the vent line.
The little auto store did not have the correct rubber filler & vent hoses for my truck and would take a few days get in stock. We changed out the entire fuel pump and sender unit, and were able to modify some rubber hoses for a new filler & vent line hose. Everything worked great for a year 1/2 but in the last few weeks we have noticed that when we fill the tank, the gas gauge does not go all the way up to the "F" line to show full. With the price of gas, it is important to know exactly how much is really in the tank. Also, is there a battery in the ceiling console for the temperature and compass? Ours just stopped working yesterday.
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My father inlaw has a dodge van that is having problems starting. When starting it will crank, but will not fire. We have discovered that if you remove the 20 amp Oxygen Sensor relay, under the hood, and jump it directly to the battery, while starting if will start. The fuse appears to be good. Can the O2 sensor relay prevent the van from starting, but run after initially bypassing after starting? What it might be?
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Still getting p0174 error after upsteam downstream, checked everything.
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I drive a 2001 Toyota Camry with about 110,000 miles. About a year ago the check engine light came on and indicated a problem with the rear O2 sensor (the exact OBD code escapes me right now). Had the sensor replaced and a month later the same one failed. Replaced it again and 2 weeks later it failed again. I am now on the fourth rear O2 sensor and the check engine light is on again with the same code. So, clearly the problem isn't the actual sensor. I have heard it might be the ECU, but what else could be causing this type of problem?
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I drive a 2001 VW Jetta and have had many issues with this car but have had this particular issue many times. It starts when all of a sudden my car feels like it's going to stall when idling. When I go to drive it in this state the car has difficulty excelerating, bucking and sputtering (like the engine isn't getting enough fuel) and the engine light comes on. I have taken it to many shops and they usually replace an oxygen sensor saying that it is clogged etc. I have also had a couple of tune-ups because of it but after about a year the issue comes back and I shell out more money. I was told by one mechanic to use only super gasoline and that it should prevent it from happening again which I did and it held it off from happening again to about a year and a half but now it's back.
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A few years ago my auto transmission in my 3.5 L engine hyundai santa fe started shifting rough from 2nd to 3rd gear, i did a trans flush and changed the input output sensors, anyway last week it started again, so i just changed the input output sensors again, it did not fix the prob this time, do you think a flush would work.
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I've just bought a 2005 Santa Fe CRDI 2.0 Second hand, one owner from new, 60,000miles in 7 years. Just had it's 60,000 mile service. Until today perfect. Started car and no revs. but when I put in gear and moved the car, the revs kicked in and I was able to drive normally. Pulled over to side, into neutral, no revs FOR 1 2 or 3 SECONDS, then revved as normal, put in gear, and able to drive OK. Meanwhile, the MIL light came on and stayed on. I know what the hand book says but before I take it to our Hyundai dealer.
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My wife and I have a 2001 Honda CR-V with approximately 91,600 miles on it. Standard transmission. Air conditioning. About three weeks ago, she reported that she suddenly heard a loud noise and the AC went out. No engine light, but the noise from the engine compartment was loud and she was concerned about the safe operation of the vehicle.We took it to a Honda dealer.
Their diagnosis: Just the AC system, which needs to be replaced. Their estimated cost of replacement was $3800. I deferred on paying that price for replacement of the AC system. They stated that the vehicle was ok to operate, but we just wouldn't have air. We paid a fair amount for their evaluation of the problem. (I also asked them to look at the clutch, which they said was ok.)The noise continued from the hood of the car.In the meantime, I got a quote over the phone from another mechanic that replacement of the AC system could be done at significantly lower cost.Just before we were going to take the CRV to the mechanic, I get a call from my wife to inform me that she's stranded. The CRV won't start and run.We called AAA. Their guy comes out and simply cuts a belt to the AC compressor clutch. Problem solved and noise eliminated. The CRV is now with the other mechanic.
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2004 Santa Fe 2.7L
When the headlights are on the left turn signal stays on(but does not blink). The right turn signal functions ok. With the headlights off both signals function normally. The headlights work correctly.
This issue happened once a year ago but just started reoccurring two days ago.
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I just got my car back from an accident and it immediately started leaking oil. They determined it was a cracked oil pan. They can either
1) weld it
2) replace it with a used one
3) replace it with a new one
I understand because it's foreign that it will be expensive but never saw this coming. I'm not quite sure what the best choice is for me to do. I would like to save money but don't want future problems with my volvo c70 2001.
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CEL, Triangle Displayed for the second time, Engine goes to READY, ICE starts and shuts down when I assume adequate charging is reached. However, OBD2 code thrown is P1636. Drives very well from what I can tell. But she just reported the CEL & Triangle went on again and she feels it is driving rough, like it is struggling.
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I began hearing a whining/humming sound just a couple of days ago esp when hitting 45mph and then would notice as I took my foot off of gas. I had hoped it was either tire or bearing related, but Toyota tried for over an hour and finally determined it was transmission related..a new transaxle assy etc would cost a total of 6500$. However, they said they did not think I had to do anything right now as everything is well lubricated..they even thought it could remain the way it is for a year to two. My Prius has 180,000miles on it. Should I attempt to find a salvage transaxle and risk having it put in? Or should I cut my losses and given up?
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