Volvo - V70 :: 2001 - Low Coolant Light Came On Now Won't Start
Sep 29, 2012
I have a 2001 Volvo V70. Yesterday I noticed that the low coolant light came on when I tried to start the car, but it went off after a minute or two. I kept an eye on the temperature gauge and didn't see anything amiss. When my wife tried to start the car this morning, the low coolant light came on again, but the car wouldn't start -- it turns over but sputters out after a second or two. I checked the coolant and it was indeed pretty low (should have done it the night before, I realize). So, I'm trying to figure out what's up here -- the car didn't seem to generally overheat, but something has gone wrong. Fuel pump or something similar?
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I recently had my timing belt | water pump changed as preventative maintenance. I have 126K on the clock. Two days after having it done, the "low coolant - stop safely" light comes on for about two minutes during cold start. I checked the reservoir during the cold start and no coolant disappears. So, it seems to me that coolant is at level. What gives?
One more thing, just had my door replaced as well and the SRS service light tripped and the body shop didn't have a scanner to clear the fault. Is that common? 2005 Xc90 2.5t...
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My elderly mother brought a used 2006 Volvo SR60, in 2008. Later she discovered that the radiator light/coolant would blink on in the car. The Coolant was low. She took the car to To Mckevitt Volvo here in the Bay Area. The car was under warranty. McKevitt replaced the radiator
Apparently she kept having problems with the coolant system in the car. She took the car to another car repair place (Ackerman) and they detected a tiny crack in the radiator, but they said it wasn't enough of a leak to cause the leak. Then they suggested replacing the thermostat of the car. Apparently, this is a real costly procedure costing hundreds of dollars. She opted not to do this..
Recently she took the car back to McKevitt Volvo, still because of the coolant problems, the car is no longer under warranty,, Mckevitt held the car for a couple of days, after an inspection for leaks, they told her they could not find any leak, although they cleaned up the car, and didn't charge her for their services.
So now she's paying on a newer model car, , that leaks coolant, but no one knows where....
Does she still have any recourse, what should she do? She's an older person in her 60's so she needs her car and doesn't need a blown head gasket. I suggested, trying one of those "over_the_counter_" radiator, coolant system seal, to stop any leak, are these safe to use?
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I own a 2001 Volvo S40. At first I had a problem getting it to stay running on the first start. Before when I started the car it would stall the first or second time. Then I would give it a little gas, let off and it would bog down under 750 rpms then jump up to 750 and run fine. The car would start great afterwards as long as I started it within a few hours. If I let it sit overnight I would run into the same problem as mentioned before. That was then and this is now. The last time the car ran I noticed the car would not fully warm up. It was like 30 degrees outside and the fans only blew cold air. The temp gauge stayed on the cold side the whole ride home (roughly 35 miles).
The next day it was still about 30 degrees outside and when I went to start the car the car it stalled. I tried to start it again and gave it some gas but when I let off the gas pedal the car shut off. I tried again with the same results. The next time I keep my foot on the gas for a good minute. The car would rev up no problem but once I let off the gas the car would stall. I figured it was the cold weather. So the next it was beautiful (close to 60). I tried to start it again with the same results as the previous day. That was a few days ago. Since then, I've tried a few times but to no avail.
I bought the car with 108,000 miles on it from a dealer. Since then I've put about 17,000 miles on it and haven't done any maintenance to it. Absolutely none. No oil change, plugs, air filter, etc. I wanted to keep it to myself but am trying to be completely honest to ensure proper troubleshooting. I did check the oil level and it was ok. Also, I have about half a tank of gas in the tank. I believe it could be numerous issues.
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For over 1 year I've had a problem with my 2001 Volvo S60 only giving a "click" when I attempt to start it. Often when I repeat multiple times, it DOES START, but more often than not, it doesn't (at least right away).
I've replaced the battery, starter/solenoid and starter relay. Twice I've had it to the local Volvo dealer, and both times the mechanics said the problem was associated with "corrosion" on the solenoid blade. Once the mechanic just "wiggled" the connector, and the other time the blade was sanded to remove potential oxide/corrosion.
After replacing the starter/solenoid, it STILL didn't start, so I replaced the wire leading from the fuse-box, thinking that "wiggling" the connector may have degraded the crimp on it.
Now the car won't start AT ALL. I've tested the line from the fuse down to the wire to the solenoid, and the ECM only now gives a "pulse", rather than turning ON while the ignition is turned to START. I'm thinking that some other input is telling the ECM to NOT CONTINUE CRANKING.
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I have a 2001 Volvo S60 and yesterday, when I took out the HVAC unit out of the dash to try and change two small light bulbs (only had to remove 2 torx screws and unplug the unit), the SRS AIRBAG URGENT light went out. Needless to say, the airbags are fine. How can I get the airbag light off?
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On my daughter's 2001 S60, there are lights under each mirror. The bulbs appear to be okay.
When do these lights come on? I don't recall ever seeing them.
Just curious, while I go out tonight to investigate another Bulb Failure warning. :-( I know it won't be the mirror, but this does get tiresome!
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I have a 2001 Volvo V70 XC which won't remain on after I fill it up, and while cruising (but not accelerating!) on the highway, it will chug-chug-chug and gives a very jerky ride (confirmed with cruise control). This happens during 60-80 km/hr, but less so at 100-120 km/hr. After I fill the tank I have to rev the engine to get it to 'catch' - if I don't the tach will drop to zero and the car will stall.
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I own a 1990 Volvo 740 GL. It cut off at a stop light one day and now it will not start. It seems to be a fuel related issue, if I squirt staring fluid into the intake it will start but cuts off immediately. I removed the fuel line that connects to the injectors and no fuel is coming out. I checked both the number 1 and 11 fuses both are fine. I have replaced the fuel filter, fuel pump, and the fuel pump relay.
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Replaced sensor, light stays on.Removed sensor, grounded the probe, light goes out.Replaced antifreeze, bled system twice, no air or oil.Getting desperate. Removed and cleaned battery to body ground strap.Removed and cleaned battery to engine ground strap.Today found out there is no error code in the OBC but the light is still!
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2001 Mercury Sable? I recently have gotten to use a 2001 Sable that is a perfectly great car. Low mileage, (43,000) fully loaded etc. However, it was obviously not driven very much, once a week back and forth to the beauty shop, but it was not garaged... mostly parked under a carport or a tree. What keeps happening is the Low coolant light comes on after it has been driven a while. The car has been checked out, and the coolant levels are fine... that's easy to see... no leaks were found. Recommended repairs were Trans Flush, Belt, and Fuel Injection service. I have noticed that after the light comes on the AC stops working as well on the Max setting and I lose fan speed adjustment ability. The way I know that is because when I turn the AC to AUTO and the fan on high, it blows harder. I have also noticed that after driving it with the light on, when I stop the car I can smell radiator fluid - but I haven't spotted any leaks - but I haven't looked very hard because mostly I just stop driving it. What may be causing the light to come on? Is it actually related to the AC, or is that a separate problem, OR is it a computer problem? Has there been a recall on this? Is it something that I need to worry about?
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So I recently bought a Chevy Impala with about 150,000 miles on it. The check engine light is on and sometimes it will tell me my coolant levels are low. I filled it up with coolant and the message still comes on sometimes. Also, when I'm driving, I can feel my rpms go way up when I press the gas, but they car won't accelerate for shit. Sometimes the check engine light will blink, which I've heard is for safety, and my car will barely accelerate at all. I can drive it around town easily the way it is now, but I don't want to risk ruining it. On top of that, my radio and lights will cut in and out sometimes and get better the more gas I give it.
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My coolant indicator light keeps returning on my 01 Jetta GLS 2.0
I have searched in the forums and read that its likely a coolant sensor and requires replacing the coolant tank. I am wondering if there are other possible causes as I want to drive it for another 3k before replacing tank (as I will be having timing belt replacement and coolant flush at that time). Previous owner had universal (green) coolant in and it will be replaced with proper coolant when the flush is done.
The indicator comes on within a minute of starting the car. The thermostat seems to operate just fine and car is not overheating. I have topped off with diluted water, it definitely has proper level.
Safe to ignore as long as I watch coolant level and temp?
On a separate issue: I tried to use code reader but it would not connect to my car (had successfully connected at some point prior), I believe it may be because I have an aftermarket radio (the K-wire issue?). If that is true, should it resolve if I swap the stock radio back in? I need to be able to connect to the car eventually when it is time to renew registration (for state emissions control testing).
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I recently replaced the head gasket on my 740 turbo. I still have coolant in my oil and it smells like fuel. I pulled the plugs and there is no coolant on them and they have some carbon on them. Is it possible for the coolant and oil to mix elsewhere? Like the turbo?
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Back again, with the 1994-ish Volvo 940 with many miles on it.
Symptoms reported by son: coolant leak near firewall (radiator hoses replaced a few weeks ago); maybe some pressure in cooling system; some oily stuff in the coolant in the radiator.
Shop's diagnosis: transmission cooler leaking. (Well at least it's not the head gasket!)
Recommend : Replace radiator, cap (sure), thermostat (all right, but we get rid of this car in six weeks), and ... flush the transmission (alarm!).
Usual advice is drain and refill tranny, rather than flush. However, seems to me that with high risk of coolant in trans fluid, flush is the right action.
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Car: 2003 Jetta VR6 GLX 24V
Sometimes when I start up my car ( I want to say when cold, but I haven't tried after its warm yet), the coolant light and warning come up. I obviously checked the coolant, and it is a little low. But it's been where it is since I bought the car, and I haven't noticed any leaks. After I turn the car off then on again the light goes away.
The car is running perfectly fine, it's not running hot or cold. Another thing I have noticed is that my fans don't seem to be working. ( I know it's a common problem). But I'm thinking this could be the fact that it's below 0 today.
I haven't gotten it scanned yet, but what's going on; i.e., Thermostat, sensors, fans etc..
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Lost coolant after dealer replaced a new fuel pump.
Before I start car, the level of coolant is Max and tank cap is tight. Driving back home and stop engine, the coolant level is still Max. Second day, coolant is lost and tank cap is a little loose. No more coolant loss if leaving it at home without driving. If I topped up the tank, after two days driving, coolant level is lower than MIN.
I did not find any leaks, like fuel tank and passenger's side floor.
Is it possible that tank cap causes this coolant loss?
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I'm the guy with the XC90 in Gabon. Someone brought me some power steering fluid, brake fluid, oil,......but I forgot to ask for radiator fluid....crap!
Today I got the red triangle and low coolant warning...topping it off with water made it go away, but I need some fluid. I can't get Pentosin radiator fluid here. Is there another kind of radiator fluid I can put in the car that will mix with the existing stuff? If I just get ethylene glycol base will that work?
Or....If I drain it all,out and start over from scratch...does it matter what kind of fluid I put in?
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I recently purchased a 1997 Volvo 850 and a week ago it began leaking coolant. Currently I am having to refill the coolant every three days.
I have attached two pics. One is a pic of where the coolant pools and the other is a pic of where I am pretty sure the coolant is leaking.
The leak appears to be coming from the connection point at the top driver side of the radiator. I know there is a hose on the same side at the bottom of the radiator directly below the one in the picture. At first I thought that was the source of the leak but later found it was just run off from the leak above.
Does this a common and fixable leak? Or if it is likely an expensive fix? Any other troubleshooting I can do on my end or do I need to take it to a dealer to find out what is going on?
Radiator_Leak.jpg ( 765.54K )
Leak.jpg ( 1.3MB )
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Okay so recently I was driving my 2000 Jetta and the coolant temp light came flashing on, when I went to check the coolant I was surprised to discover that it was like a mud brown color, almost looks like peanut butter. From everything I have read this can be from a few things, either rust build up that is gunking everything up and oil getting into the coolant somehow. I'm pretty sure its rust build up but I was wondering what everyone thinks about this, I was also not using G12 coolant which I'm told now is the premier brand for VW's.
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On Sunday I'm driving to the store my LOW COOLANT light goes on. So I buy some coolant. I get home let the car cool off and check my radiator, it is full. My coolant recovery tank is also at the proper level.
Been three days already checked levels again and I'm not losing any coolant.
What the car is NOT doing:
1. Not losing fluid
2. Not running hot
I'm thinking coolant level sensor?
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