Volvo - V70 :: 2001 - Air Conditioner Clutch Replacement
Dec 29, 2013
Is it possible to just change the Air Conditioner Clutch on the Air compressor for the volvo V70?it is rattling and all I can find online are new compressors.
View 6 RepliesIs it possible to just change the Air Conditioner Clutch on the Air compressor for the volvo V70?it is rattling and all I can find online are new compressors.
View 6 Replies2000 Volvo v70... When accelerating (particularly at high speed) the air conditioner stops cooling. Until the car is turned off the AC does not cool. Dealer checked out the AC and found no problems.
View 2 RepliesThe A/C on our 2007 Nissan Altima went a year ago. Our trusty mechanic diagnosed the problem and replaced the clutch, which is now past the one-year warranty. The A/C has now became intermittent, and the mechanic's best assessment is that the recent clutch has also failed, but he has no clue about an underlying cause, if any. His recommendation to get the A/C running again is to replace the clutch again, assuming that it is the source of the problem. He advises that this is the only way to determine if it is in fact the cause or something else highly obscure is behind the clutch failure. What should we do about the A/C and clutch?
View 6 Repliesl have a 2000 model accent and the air conditioner compressor clutch is not engaging . you press the 'AC 'button and the indicator comes on when a fan speed is selected which l am sure is the correct operation.l checked for 12 volts at the coil terminals of the relay and there is no 12 volts.l shorted the switch contacts of AC relay and the compressor did engage so the wiring from the relay base to the the compressor clutch is ok. l also checked the contacts of the 'AC' switch itself and it seems to be ok. l haven't had much luck with sorting out the wiring from the switch to the relay as l do not have a wiring diagram.
View 4 RepliesI have a 2006 GS300. Changed out the battery today, and immediately after the AC quit working. Pushing the climate control button reveals the message "Check the connection of the air conditioner".
View 3 RepliesMy 6.0 lost a bolt that holds the AC clutch and the clutch fell off. It's probably on some highway making people have flats. Is it possible to buy a replacement clutch and NOT remove the OEM pulley, just take the parts off the replacement clutch and put them on the old AC and existing pulley?
View 9 RepliesSo I bought a 2002 elantra with 110000 ks on it.
I took it for a service and they changed spark plugs air filter and brake pads. Since then it's been making a whoop noise when the aircons on.
It's like an air escaping noise. Only comes when the aircons on and when stopped at lights or something. Ive read about Hondas making similar noise due to faulty thermal expansion valves wonder whether it's the same in my case. If so how much will it cost to fix?
I own a 2001 Toyota Echo. When I turned on the air conditioner, the fan would run, but there was no cooling. I took it to the Toyota dealer for repair, and the problem was a bad compressor. The compressor was repaired and the a/c worked. Twelve days later, the a/c would not cool. I took it back to the dealer, and the problem was "Found clutch melted to AC compressor." Fortunately, the repair was still under warranty, so there was no extra charge. I had never heard of the "magnetic clutch assembly" melting itself to the AC compressor.
View 5 RepliesI'm having intermittent problems with the air conditioner on my 2004 Hyundai Santa Fe. If it matters, it's a 2wd, 3.5 liter model with about 66,000 miles. Below I will post a description of what's happening, as well as some other things that I've noticed and things that I've tried (these may or may not be relevant to the problem though). OK, here's what's happening:
I first noticed the problem back in late July and since then it has been happening more frequently. So far the problem only occurs after I've been driving on the interstate, although I'm not sure if it's a matter of my speed, or just a matter of how long the a/c has been running. Typically I only drive 15 minutes at a time unless I'm on the interstate where I would typically drive for a few hours or so. What's happening is that after a while (the time varies from 20 minutes to an hour or so) the flow of the air conditioning coming through the vents slows down to just a trickle. The a/c is still really cold, but it just barely comes out of the vents, no matter what speed I set it on. Here are some things that I've noticed (and a few things that I've done to try to repair it):
1.) I read that it might be the cabin air filter, even though normally Santa Fe's aren't equipped with them. I took the glove box out, and found the spot where the air filter normally goes and there was one installed (we bought the car used). I took it out and it was disgustingly dirty - a bunch of dirt, some leaves, sticks, etc... I just took out the filter completely and didn't replace it.
2.) While I was looking at that air filter, I also noticed that the box right to the left of that filter was wet with condensation. This was right after a two hour drive with the A/C on maximum cold all the way home though, so I don't know if that is normal or not. It wasn't dripping on the floor, but there was noticeable condensation on that box (I don't know what that "box" is).
3.) The problem will sometimes go away if I turn the air conditioning completely off for about 5-10 minutes. It seems that the longer I leave the a/c off the better chance I have of it working when I turn it back on.
4.) When I change the fan speed on the air conditioning I can hear the blower motor running at different levels. It almost sounds as if there's something in the dash that is clogging up the pipes. I can hear a whistling sound when the blower is on the lowest speed - when it's up any higher than that I can't hear it, but that's probably just because of the noise coming from the blower itself.
5.) I had the problem today, and I stopped at a gas station to get a drink. When I got back into the car I heard the sound of water trickling from underneath the glove box. It was very quiet, but it was there.
6.) When we have this problem, it happens on all of the vents. It doesn't matter what vent you choose for the air to come out of - the flow is just a trickle.
7.) It doesn't matter if it is heat or cold - the flow is very slow on both of these.
8.) The a/c is still ice cold during all of this. It blows colder than any other a/c that I've ever had.
9.) I noticed that sometimes while driving, a white mist will come out of the vents. Sometimes we have the problem above after we see the mist - sometimes it still works fine though, but I did think it was odd that the "mist" was coming out. I'm not sure if it's water vapor or what, but it does go away if you turn the temperature control a little to the warm side (even just a notch or two away from max cold).
Originally, I had thought that it was the blower motor and I was just going to replace it, but then I started thinking about it and don't think that it is the blower motor because it seems to be working well most of the time, and even when I have the problem I can hear it running - again it sounds like something is clogging up the a/c system somewhere between the blower and the vents. I also read some things about the blend doors, but I'm not sure if that's it or not.
if the fan doesn't work, could this make the AC compressor clutch not engage? I think the fan is burned out because it doesn't spin at all, and only moves with a lot of effort. If the fan circuit is open, will this cause the Compressor to not work as well? the car is a 1991 740 GL. 2.3L engine, non turbo.
View 3 RepliesI inherited this car from my parents a couple years ago with about 80,000 miles. It ran great for awhile, then the air conditioner and the gauges would quit working while driving. After a few minutes they would resume working and everything would go back to normal. Now it will start sometimes and will not start at other times. I have replaced the battery two times and it seemed to work for a short period. I have had several mechanics look at it. After checking the code and replacing a fuse or sensor and replacing the ignition switch the car is still doing the same thing and no one has a clue what is going on. It seems to me that it may happen more often when going over a bump. What could be causing this?
View 2 RepliesWife is driving my F-150 and the AC cuts out about 15 minutes into the drive. It may or may not come back on. Getting check engine light code cylinder D. Clear that out and AC again works for 15 minutes. Told I have a vacuum leak. Have the dash apart looking.
View 5 RepliesI own a 2010 GTI stage 2+ with 430hp, I just had a clutch replacement from
dodson motorsport that can handle more power up to 700hp, before the replacement I had serious slipping, when I was pushing the car from 4k rpm, the "DSG OVERHEATING" blink on the dashboard, now after the replacement and the dsg software I still have slippage, do you think it comes from mechatronic? The tuners said that might be the mechatronic due to the fact that the two valves of pressure does not send too much oil to the clutches and creates slippage. Should I change only the two valves or the mechatronic complete.
This was the stock "burned" clutch
And this is the new DODSON MOTORSPORT CLUTCH PACK FOR 700whp
Got a new clutch, flywheel, and slave done about a month and a half ago at the dealer (got bent over with the price too, but that is beside the point). Ever since, the rpm's have been acting really weird. When the car is in neutral, it will rev by itself from 800-1800. The problem seems to get worse under warm conditions.
I haven't had a chance until today to take it back to the dealer, they scanned it and a couple of codes came up. I will get the exact codes on monday, but they said bring it back then so they can take a closer look at it. What this could be? Throttle body position sensor? Its really pissing me off, and they better fix it. Just want to be well prepared for a fight come monday...
I am not very familiar with transmissions and clutches, hence I just purchased a used transmission for my jetta 1.8t, i was told that i might as well do the clutch while the transmission is getting done. I just purchased the car two years ago and the guy said that he put a vr6 clutch in. so my question is, what exactly will i need to get for both the transmission and clutch replacement. Like I mentioned, I only have bought the transmission so far.
View 6 RepliesI just replaced my clutch and now my speedo is not working ? It did work for about a day after the job, but now it just reads 0 all the time... would low fluid cause that ?? I put two quarts in after putting the trans back ....
View 4 RepliesA few months before warranty expired on my 2009 Elantra I began hearing squeaking noise from clutch (it is 5 speed manual). Three trips to dealer and finally they opened clutch to find bearing being dry and plate dirty - bearing lost seal and all grease leaked.
It was about 50k miles on ODO. Plate, bearing and disk (I said replace it since you are there - I paid for the disk) were installed new. All supposed to be fine... until I got home. Here is what happening.
Fork is "swinging". It does not simply seat in position when released, but you can see it moving.
Clutch - when idle speed, clutch released in neutral there is a loud rattling/grinding noise.
Now, diagnosis at the dealer. They put the car on hoist and claim the tranny is trashed as the wheels were spinning when car was off the ground with engine running and tranny in neutral.
The shaky fork - all car is shaking so this is normal - vibration from engine. Replace tranny and it should be good.
On 4/11/11 - we replace the clutch in our son's Nissan Altima. Yesterday - the clutch died as he was getting on the highway. It was towed to the same repair shop. They took a quick look and said it's likely the new clutch is gone. They weren't sure what our son did to it. We're baffled. What could he have done in 6 wks that would totally blow a brand new clutch? At this point - we don't know whether to throw good money after bad.
View 7 RepliesI've got the clutch pack rebuild kit for this diff and I'm trying to figure out how to do this without all the special tools. I found this post from a guy who did the job:
Sterling 10.25 Trac lock rebuild
This is a great post, but I can't figure out what he's doing with this "all thread" (is this just threaded rod??) to get the spider gears back in. How does this compress the spring plate in the clutch pack? I don't get it.
My a/c bearing clutch is making alot of noise well i removed the cluch and snap ring and the bearing is still on there. How do i remove the bearing just pry it out or special tool? Its on a 99 f250 sd.
View 3 Replies2003 Mazda6, 3.0 liter, 6 cylinder, FWD. My RPMs are starting to jump, so I believe a clutch replacement may be in line soon. However, I'm not a huge car guy, and I don't have much experience in regards to replacing clutches.
(1) The RPMs are jumping occasionally at higher gears (not every time). How long do you think I could go before the clutch dies completely? I'm not a "racer", and I just use my car for daily driving.
(2) Do mechanics replace clutches based on symptoms alone, or can they actually visually inspect the clutch and determine that it needs to be replaced?
(3) When replacing a clutch, what parts need to be replaced besides the actual clutch itself? Also, I've read about flywheels needing to be resurfaced, but is that necessary?
(4) What manufacturer makes good clutches? As mentioned, I'm not a hard driver or anything. Just need something that is good quality and affordable.
(5) Is the best way to save money (I'm a graduate student) to buy an aftermarket clutch and have the clutch installed by a local mechanic?
(6) At what mileages do clutches typically need to be replaced? I know it depends on how you drive. Let's say you're a casual driver and simply use your car to get to work, school, etc.