Car was running just fine, suddenly yesterday afternoon she would crank but not turn over. I see someone with a 1990 volvo turbo is having the same problem but this is not a turbo model. We do not have the service manual for this car but are fairly handy. If this isn't something we can fix ourselves is there a way to at least get her started so we don't have to tow?
View 3 RepliesWhat are the correct timing marks and positions for a Volvo 940 Turbo? I especially need the position of the crankshaft pulley. I have read the timing mark is on the cover, but unfortunately mine has dry rotted and crumbled away.
View 1 RepliesHaving my beloved v70 XC SE towed to mechanic today. Suddenly reverse gear was non functioning. No choice. Assume it's time for gear box replacement (whatever that is). Only 133K miles on the vehicle and I LOVE this car. Is it worth the cost to fix transmission or should I just donate or try to sell the vehicle?
View 2 RepliesI have a 2001 Volvo S80 with about 200,000 miles and it died on me while driving. The battery is about 6 months old. The shop I took it to said the timing chain slipped and might have caused damage to the piston and head. Does this seem reasonable as the cause?
View 2 RepliesThe a/c fan on my 2002 Volvo v40 will suddenly speed up for a few seconds, and then go back to the original speed. It happens if the a/c is on or off. All speeds work otherwise.
View 2 RepliesMy 1991 Volvo 240 with automatic transmission suddenly stopped shifting out of first. No warning. Fluid level is good.
View 4 RepliesI was on my way home from work when my speakers suddenly stopped working. I tried changing stations and switching to CDs, but sound still refused to play. My head unit works perfectly fine. Every 5 minutes or so if the radio is left on, sound will come from the speakers on the right side of the car, but only for roughly 5 seconds before the sound disappears again. When this happens, the volume knob does not work and the sound cannot be turned down.
I have checked all three fuse boxes and nothing seems to be wrong. I have also checked behind the head unit and there are no problems as far as wiring is concerned. Is it possible that my amp just needs replaced, or is there something else that could have gone wrong?
My 2006 stalled twice yesterday. Was running normally, then suddenly stalled after driving for 10 minutes. Error message said something like "insufficient power available". Started up fine after that, but a few miles later had the same problem.
Some potentially relevant background. The night before these two stalls I got some cheap gas from a no name station. A month earlier my car had a really rough start and check engine light came on, but it drove fine. Mechanic diagnosed a leak in the air intake tube (into turbo, I think), and replaced it. He said he got some strange codes though. (120D, 121B, 216D, 21E0 for air mass meter and fuel trim, and also control module comm code E000, 710B, 900B).
He said if the problem reoccurs I probably need an air mass sensor replacement. Thoughts?
Given it restarts so easily, I'm not too concerned re driving the ~10 miles to my mechanic, but I'll be avoiding highways and rush hour. Or, do you think, I can damage the car by driving to the mechanic?
10 yr old V70 with 100K miles. Generally running well and fully serviced. Suddenly stalls, generally at low speed, without warning. No codes in system and mechanics could not replicate problem. After stop, starts up again with no problem. Idles fine.
View 2 RepliesI had the two wiring harnesses replaced with used ones, by Volvo at Christmas time on my 1995 940 Turbo. Things were heavenly and reliable until a week ago. My wife phoned me to tell me she could not start the car. I went and tried. It would crank, but not catch. I tried holding the pedal to the floor, but no luck. I had it towed to Volvo, but on the Monday, it started and it did all week long.
I drove it Saturday morning on errands. It was fine. My son moved it out onto the street and I went to use it an hour later and it wouldn't start. After about five hours, I tried it and it started rough but with gas it normalized.
I've asked whoever uses it in the family to give it gas in Park, before moving to get everything working. As the car is only driven once or twice a week, now that winter is over, I haven't tested my theory.
I really like the car, but my wife and I have to have confidence that it will start when we need it to. We have always had the vehicle maintained. I have wondered if it has anything to do with fuel injectors, but readily admit to not knowing anything.
I have a 2003 Grand Caravan, 3.3L, 75,000 miles. The van suddenly will not attempt to start. The strange thing is that when the key is turned to RUN I cannot hear the fuel pump. The normal 2 or so second on growl at the initial key turn is not there. When turned to start the clock on the radio goes out and no crank. I have found that the start relay is not passing on the signal to the starter. If I jump across the two pins going to the starter, the starter cranks fine. The van will still not start because I believe it has no fuel,due to the fuel pump not running. I thought first that it must be the neutral safety switch but does that have any control of the fuel pump also? I have found that the neutral safety switch requires that I remove the valve body for access.
View 14 RepliesI just got a 2004 F-150 XLT. 200k miles AT. The problem is that it won't start. The previous owner was driving it when it suddenly died and wouldn't crank over. He was told by an auto shop it neded a new engine.
I don't think it needs a new engine because it stopped while driving. I may be wrong. I put a new battery in it. When I turn the key to start it, it just makes one loud click and doesn't do anything else. The oil and coolant look fine. What may be wrong with it or how to see if the engine is bad?
I have a 2003 Volvo XC90, 2.5T AWD ... Since two weeks no start, no crank, when I turn the key in the ignition nothing happened, only the navigation screen is going off. I try the second key and it is doing the same. It happened when battery goes very low.
I try to scan it with different scanners and the same DTC is showing: (ECM-720A: Immobiliser communication)
Someone said I must remove the ECM and the ECU, read the both and use "Volvo Synchro V1.4 Loader" synchronize and program the key but i do not really know how to do it. Is it possible to do immo off ?
The VIN number is: YV1CZ59G741071108
About 6 weeks ago I became the proud owner of an '88 240 wagon with ~ 235,000 miles.
When turning the key over to start Lucy (that's her name) most times she will crank for 3 to 5 seconds before indeed starting. I can avoid those 3 to 5 excruciatingly long seconds if I let her crank for a time or two then let her rest for a second - after that she will start up immediately when I turn the key again. This situation happens probably 14 times out of 15. The 15th she will start like a dream the first time. I have had the battery tested (although I could not find a date on the battery and the previous owner did not know when it was purchased), and I have completed a full tune up (plugs, wires, rotor and cap) among other maintenance issues as well.
Attached File(s)
Lucy.JPG ( 3.4MB )
Lucy_Under_the_Hood.JPG ( 3.87MB )
Cranks strong, I have fuel to the rail, 12V at the injectors and spark. Have changed crank sensor and 2 relays?
View 3 RepliesDriving home from work last night my truck just died. I was under load, going up hill, and she just shut down. No power, completely dead.
She'll crank, but not start.
Ever hear of this?
My xc90 will crank but not start 99% of the time
Here are the following codes
(P0336) - Crankshaft Position Sensor A Circuit Range/ Performance
(P0040) - O2 Sensor Signals Swapped Bank 1 Sensor 1/Bank 2 Sensor 1
I have replaced the following
1.timing was off i have corrected this using the correct locking tools and VADIS
2.fuel pump was leaking - replaced along with filter
3.coil packs have been replaced along with spark plugs
4.replaced the crank position sensor and cradle
5.replaced the starter motor just for the hell of it
I have had the car running 3 times but this only occurs rarely and once i turn it off it wont start again . I have herd it could be 1 of 3 things .
fly wheel, starter motor emp messing the crank position sensor signal or gearbox has not got the correct earthing to chassis or bell housing to engine
I checked the 3 grounding points on both sides of the fenders and sanded the contacts ...
My 245 is running great. Love this car to death. I have been experiencing something weird. The car will start hard after sitting intermittently. It'll crank for 3 seconds and if I press the gas pedal it will fire right up. If I don't touch the pedal, itll will continue to crank...eventually sputtering and then firing. It will usually fore up right away if I don't let it sit for hours. I haven't exactly narrowed it down to a fuel prime issue, but that's kind of what it seems like to me. Are there any check valves or anything like that I could look into?
View 1 Replies1990 Volvo 760 4 cyl. Turbo. Drove the car to work, everything fine. Got off work, car wouldn't start. Cranked but wouldn't start. It was getting spark. Changed the fuel filter, it ran perfect for a month. Drove it to town a month later, shut it off, then trying to start it, would crank and crank eventually start but run real rough. We got it home....barely.
Replaced the fuel filter again. Still wouldn't run right.
Replaced the fuel pressure regulator. Same problem.
Replaced the throttle positioning switch. Same problem. Replaced the air control valve. same problem.
Found out that this car has an on board diagnostic doo hickey.
Found out how to check each sensor and component individually.
All sensors and components are working. Checked both fuel pumps and they are working. If I unplug the air flow sensor and the air control valve sensor, I can start the car using starter fluid and it will idle all day with out missing a lick.If I plug in either one of the sensors, it will kill it immediately.I don’t know what else to do to make this machine run.
99 Accord, 160,000, automatic, 4cyl vtec, properly maintained.
Recently the CEL came on following an episode of the engine running poorly. It painted EGR code P0401 which is being dealt with, and, P1739: "third clutch pressure switch circuit fault." I investigated briefly in my Haynes and found that P1739 is one of the codes that will not trip the CEL.
I have not had any major issues with this transaxle. The fluid is at its proper level, Honda Z1 brand, and in good shape. I have it changed every 20,000 miles. Sometimes if I am driving along in 2nd gear, right around the upper speed limit before it would shift to third (20-25 mph), the car will jerk just a little but it is driveable. Could this be related?
Should I let this slide until something happens or should I get the to a transmission tech? What would you do? Could the thing go into limp mode one day without warning?
Just took my 99 boxster cabriolet out of storage. It was hooked up to a trickle battery charger all winter, and started up perfectly. All is well except now the convertible roof will not go down. The fuses are ok, what could this be?
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