Volvo - V70 :: 1998 - Slow Leak In Cooling System
Feb 2, 2011
I have a '98 Volvo V70 that has a slow leak in the cooling system. I have brought it to my indie Volvo mechanic several times and they keep trying new things - they've replaced the thermostat, all the hoses, overflow tank, and this last time used Stop Leak in case I have a bad head gasket. I'm 4 visits and $1600 into this repair, and it's still leaking. Now they're saying it must be the head gasket and it will be $3000 to fix. What do I do???? How do I know it will fix the car and when do I ask for my money back? When do guarantees come into play? Is the car worth it? It's worth nothing with a leak, so I'm stuck in this corner.
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Is it possible to use so much coolant system stop leak that you could clog the transmission cooling system?The fluid is burned and seems like I am having problems with gear shifting and power from the transmission. 2003 Olds Silhouette...
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What is the trick to removing air from the cooling system? Today I replaced the water pump on my daughter's 1990 240 wagon. I filled up the cooling system and believe there is air in the system. The car gets hot immediately, when I squeeze the hoses they feel soft, particularly the lower hose. During the fill procedure, I was not able to find an air valve on the thermostat housing. I suspect there is air in the system causing it not to circulate.
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I have a 1998 isuzu trooper. it is over heating and there is air being put into the cooling system. there is a lost of fluid but only the same amount each each time and i dnt knw where too. i replaced water pump had radiator serviced and it flowing at the right flow for truck. it still over heated. i tried chemical called blue devil it worked for two days then failed it is freezing cold here and no garage but do have all tools.
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I have a 2001 530i BMW experiencing an overheating problem. I replaced hoses, radiator, thermostat, water pump, alternator, both belts all of which went fine. However still loosing anti-freeze, it seems to be coming from under the intake manifold. Looking for step by step instructions on removing it to get to the problem?
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Having issue with ac system cycling on and off while traveling up hill, slopes, etc?? Have a 98 f150 with 4.6 auto and past several months ac acting weird. Its been really hot, ac still is cold but not sure why cycles on and off? Just goes off for several seconds then back on, does not shut off altogether just seems like compressor shuts off intermittently.
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I have a Chevrolet Prizm 1998 and the heat and cooling system only works on the highest setting which is actually the fan setting. When I have it on any of the other settings such as low or med nothing comes out, it doesn't work. I can hear it click on but nothing comes out. So when I'm driving depending on the weather I have the heat or cold air blasting out of the fan until it gets annoying and I turn it off. I've checked the fuses and they're good. I have not checked the relays because I'm not sure how to do that. I haven't taken it to a shop because I'm poor and don't have a trustworthy mechanic and it works just not on low or med. Should I have this looked at? I don't want to be causing any damage but it seems like it could be something simple.
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Our 98 Saab's A/C seems to have a slow leak. Do-it-yourself, stop-leak, A/C recharges available at stores like Advance and NAPA Auto?
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This problem is from last winter. 95 Jeep Cherokee. After about -10 it just doesn't produce much heat. Heater fan works fine. Jeep runs plenty warm..but what i neglected to mention and or forgot to consider is... I have a tiny leak in the cooling system somewhere. I added just a small amount of coolant a couple of times over the summer and have witnessed a small amount of steam (not lately for whatever reason) coming from the front of engine compartment. I can't find the leak. My question is :Could this cause enough loss of pressure to affect the cabin heating system.....
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Got F-150 4.6 cooling system leak on the heater line (farthest back line) coming out of the block. Fitting looks to be steel. How does it attach/ do I need to remove the Intake to replace?
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I borrowed a friends 2000 Excursion with the Triton V10, along with his 3300lb, 28' trailer to tow a car from Ashland, OR to Reno, NV to begin a restoration project. His Excursion has 175,000 miles on it and made the trip down flawlessly, but as they say, "No good deed goes unpunished." When attempting to return last Sunday, had to turn around due to overheating problems. Analysis at a local automotive shop concluded a bad radiator cap. Attempted the return trip Tuesday and the same thing happened (only got farther due to the new cap and ability to hold pressure longer).
Finally got into a Ford dealer and have been informed that the truck has a bad head gasket causing pressure to leak into the cooling system. They suggest replacement of with a remanufactureded engine as opposed to replacing head gaskets, due to the time on the entire engine (who knows what else might be bad?). The vehicle can be driven around town for miles with no problems. But put that heavy load on it and grades and it spews out nearly "all" of the coolant.
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I have a 2003 Dodge Neon and recently had transmission work done on the car. When I got the car back the radiator cap was left loose, I didn't know this until I took the car for a drive and it overheated. I let the car cool down, replaced the coolant, and made sure the cap was sealed down. The car now has a slow coolant leak, when I turn the car off I can see it drip underneath for about 2 minutes and then it stops. Also, after the car heats up to running temperature I get a burning rubber smell coming through the vents. What could this be? The car only has 70,000 miles on it and I would like to keep it going if I can.
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Turns out I've lost nearly all of the coolant from my secondary cooling system and am trying to diagnose the problem.
Things I noticed:
-All of the hoses appear to be in good condition.
-Coolant is dripping from the center of the engine bay.
-After inspecting the turbo area, it appears the valley below the turbo is wet.
The intake manifold is still on the truck, so I haven't been able to get a better look. Is there anything else near the area I am describing that has coolant? My guess is the turbo water inlet?
Perhaps this : Coolant leak on the 6.7 Powerstroke diesel - YouTube...
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I have a 1998 f150 xlt, supercab, 4x4, 4.6 Romeo (truck production date is 12/97). And I have a oil leak.
Its on the drivers side of the engine. There is a nipple on the head, next to the firewall, directly above where the exhaust pipe and exhaust manifold meet. It looks to have some sort of bolt/flush stud inside the nipple. I have oil seeping by the bolt/stud and leaking onto my exhaust pipe. its a constant but slow drip.
What this is or how to fix it? Is this a common problem? I can take a pic but cant find my camera at the moment.
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New truck to me. Truck was advertised with a slow coolant leak. Figured I would trace the leak down and get it repaired no issues. Anyway, working on it this evening I take a close look around the oil filler area and notice the dreaded milkshake color.
I drained the oil out of the truck and the oil actually came out nice and black. Is the headgasket the only area that would cause the oil/coolant mixture? Supposedly the truck has never been overheated.
At any rate, on to find articles on how to pull apart a 4.6L Triton head. I'll see if I'm up to this challenge.
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Two weeks ago a large, industrial truck dropped a piece of bent steel pipe on the interstate in front of my 2010, 50k miles, Prius and (sadly) I was forced to hit or swerve into rush hour traffic and cause an accident. It tore up a good part of the cooling system and did some body damage. Of course I didn't know this at the time, but it began to overheat, so I pulled off the freeway and had it towed to a body shop. After about ten days, I got my Prius back.
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2000 Volvo v70... When accelerating (particularly at high speed) the air conditioner stops cooling. Until the car is turned off the AC does not cool. Dealer checked out the AC and found no problems.
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My 1999 Volvo has been diagnosed by a Volvo dealer to have a bad "cooling fan relay". Another shop analysis states the "cooling motor fan assembly module" is the problem. Are these one in the same? Can I replace it with one from the salvage yard? Are there any bad omens with messing up other electronic components If I make the repair myself?
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When it's really hot out and I'm highway cruising my ac stops cooling for about 5 seconds when I let off my gas to slow down then I feel a small nudge and it's cold again.....
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The temperature gauge in my 2006 S60 2.5 T suddenly stopped working and I noticed that the cooling fan was stuck on relatively cool Michigan weather. In addition I also noticed a 2-3 mpg reduction in average fuel economy and a reduction in overall power. I did a little research and found that the 2006 2.5T models had an ECT recall. Turns out the ECM was telling the engine to operate at overheating conditions,due to a faulty ECT.
Picked up a new Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor (OEM is recommended by most authorities for replacement sensors). I replaced the ECT without even removing the engine cover, it didn't fix the problem at first. Then I pulled the fuse for the ECM, a 5 amp fuse in the box mounted on the drives side fender, and let the ECM reset for a few minutes. Then, had the temp gauge back, and had peak engine performance at operating temperature.
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After replacing the lower intake manifold gasket, along with the plenum and valve cover gaskets, I've discovered my AC isn't cooling at all. During the above repair I unbolted the compressor and set it on the passenger side out of the way. Checked the low side pressure and had no pressure. Thought I might have loosened something and caused a leak. Hooked my gauges and vacuum pump up and vacuumed for about an hour pulling 29in. Hg. Turned off and after three hours the needle had barely moved. Decided I'd add some R134A until I got enough in to activate the clutch on compressor, read gauges and try to see where I was with it.
Initially I had readings of 100 on low side and only 50 on high side. I'd added about 2/3 of can of refrigerant and my clutch had activated the compressor. Turned off and checked the electrical connection to compressor which appeared okay. Honestly I didn't know what to do next. Fired up the engine again and still had the crazy reading when the compressor clutch kicked in. Actually it was doing what I think is called, "Short Cycling," on and off every five seconds or so. When the compressor was running the gauges would show fifty psi on low side and a hundred on high side. Also the sight glass on my gauges was filled with oil. I'd planned to put some dye in the system to show any leaks I might have, but with the way things were going I didn't get to it. This experience has shown me I've got a lot to learn about auto ac systems!
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