[URL] .... (3-7sec mark & 19-21sec, most notable)
Low speed. As the vehicle decelerates or accelerates and is turning, a whine is emitted from , I think, the left front. It is intermittent, and today was not quite as loud as it usually gets. Guessing I should look for some rust build up. Volvo V50, 82000mi, 2005
I have a 2012 Prius v. It has intermittent, minor to serious problems that have not been detected by the computer. These include, when engine is READY, it won't recognize Drive. When in Drive is moves in Reverse, has locked keys in the car and does not always recognize key. The Cruise Control sometimes accelerates the vehicle on its own.
The Braking option doesn't always work properly. When touching the brakes the lights turn off. Sometimes when turning the lights on or off, the radio turns off. A new problem is that the brakes almost fail to engage, then, at the last minute they do. Toyota has sent a regional rep to take a test drive with computer diagnostics and found nothing. So, they won't do anything. These problems have occurred since I purchased the vehicle.
I have suggested that they trade cars with me while someone else drives it until they experience these events (actually the very first event was seen by a service person but that doesn't count, apparently); change computers; reprogram the computer. They won't do any of these things. It seems that if it doesn't show up on the computer when they are looking at it they won't do anything. There can be a long time between events and the events sometimes occur in clusters.
I have a 2010 Mountaineer Premier AWD V8 47k miles. On acceleration there is a hum/vibration in the steering wheel and the gas pedal between 30-50 mph. This is my third Mountaineer and I have never noticed it on the others, I just got this one about 2 months ago. The others were V6 models but were AWD. When I turn the 4x4 to the lock mode there are various noises/vibrations coming from the front of the car while it accelerates and also when turning.
View 1 RepliesWhen you put trans in reverse makes whine noise no reverse. The forward gears are fine. Could this be a solenoid problem?
View 1 RepliesI have a few questions about my 1987 240 DL volvo. First, it's been making a funny, whiny, rattling noise (mostly centered in the dashboard area) whenever it get's too cold outside. I know that taking apart a dashboard on an old volvo is really hard, but it the noise worth the effort? So far I've noticed no problems with how the car runs. Second, there is a small button on the left side of the gear changer, when a press it a lighted forward arrow appears under my speedometer. What is this button for?
View 4 RepliesEvery time I let off the gas there seems to be a strange whooshing/whining noise being emitted from somewhere on my R. I have the flapper plugged and am thinking that it might possibly be that...
View 6 RepliesI have a 95 940 turbo that shakes really bad when braking. things I have done so far are.
1. Replaced all four rotors.
2. Replaced all four callipers.
3. Replaced sway bar control arms.
The shaking is so bad that the gear shift moves back and forth when braking.
First off, vehicle is a 1993 Volvo 240, 5 speed with 131,000 miles
1) Temperature gauge is reading hot, but I believe it's running at a normal temperature. I read a few things discussing this issue. First off, a yellow wire that runs through the firewall becomes corroded (as do all Volvo wires of this age!) What exactly is this wire and what does it lead to? Could I just rerun that wire with possibly a thicker gauge? My dads an electrician so no worries with the wiring. More commonly, however; I read that the temperature compensation board fails and gives erratic readings! is this board expensive and how difficult is it to replace? I have experience with this dashboard because I rebuilt my odometer and installed a tachometer, that gives you my basic level of expertise.
2) My passenger side rear fog light won't work, a new bulb didn't fix the problem, what could it be?
3) My car shakes kind of vigorously while braking, especially at LOW speed!? I replaced front pads and rotors, what else could the problem be?
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I'm having steady oil leakage on my S60. Coming from front right of vehicle, opposite turbo side. Took it to a mechanic and they diagnosed it as an oil hose leading from engine to turbo. Replaced it and it is still leaking from the engine. Hose showed no cracks or seal problems, so that wasn't it. Mechanic is taking the axle off to see if it is an engine block crack. If it is...welding aluminum is tough, I'm told, so it might need a new engine. Car has 101,000 miles and has had no other problems before this. Not sure I want to drop that much coin on a car that is getting older.
Could there be other culprits besides the engine block being cracked? I have been looking at some forums and see that PCV lines can get clogged, leading to an increase in pressure. Others mention the oil trap being plugged, and others mention a link between the cooling system and the oil line. The leak appears to be unrelated to the turbo, as that is dry, and is coming from the engine, but high enough that the mechanic can't see it without taking the axle off. What might make this problem occur besides a cracked engine block?
Once the car reaches about 80 miles per hour, a buzzing/humming noise is emitted from the front of the car. I can't tell whether it's from the dashboard area or the footwell area, but it sounds like it's coming from below. There seems to be an exact speed where the noise stops and ends. The car does not shake or vibrate when the noise occurs.
The noise has happened twice. Not coincidentally, those were the only two time the car has been above 75 or so miles per hour within the past few weeks. I have looked on some forums for similar happenings, and I found the answer could be bad wheel bearings.
Other problems with the car include a very-vibraty engine between 1000 & 1500 RPM, a gurgling noise at low speeds/idle, and harsh shifting from 2nd to 3rd gear.
I've posted a video on YouTube of the car making the noise. It's a little hard to hear the noise in the video: [URL] .....
My Phaeton has pretty audible whine when turning the steering wheel. Closer to lock- the louder the noise. Can I check the fluid myself or is this going to become a trip to the dealer?
View 5 Repliesnew water pump and tensioner pulley, power steering hoses have been tightened yet still making this whine. It did stop for a while after i topped up the p/s reservoir but its fallen below the required amount again and garage has apparently tightened the hoses so shouldn't be leaking.
Don't know if its relevant or not but when i make a left turn and begin to straighten up I hear a clunk sound (sounds like coming from just in front of pedals, not 100%)
I just noticed a whine in my steering when turning right and left on my 2010 SE. Sounds like I am out of power steering fluid but I checked the level and it looks fine. No signs of a leak.
View 7 RepliesSo recently, my car started making whining noises upon turning the steering wheel during cold starts. Now, it does it when the car is warmed up too. From what I can hear, its only during slow speeds. Can't take my car to the dealership anymore cause they will charge me $140 diagnostic fee for whatever issues I'm having due to my car being "tampered" with previously. (It's all stock now).
View 4 RepliesHave a moderate pitch whine in front end only when steering or turning to right. Gets louder w higher speeds but pitch is about the same. Thought it was a left front wheeling bearing. Also needed new pads and rotor. While doing the job noticed grease all over the lower ball jt. Discovered a tear in the outer axle boot. Net net replaced pads, rotor, axle hub assembly and axle complete. To my chagrin the noise has changed one bit. The noise also doesn't change when I put the car in neutral while traveling downhill. With the hope that I replaced the wrong bearing I have ordered a new one for the right passenger side. When I tried the 6-12 wheel rocking test on the right there did not appear to be any looseness.
View 5 RepliesFirst off, I just traded another vehicle for a 97 mountaineer, 5.0 v8 AWD with about 171k miles on it. Runs and drives real nice, but on occasion under normal acceleration i get a slight shudder when it shifts into high gear. The tranny fluid does look and smell a bit old, but not burnt. I plan on changing it if you think it would fix the problem and not cause more.
Also, I think the ball joints are shot. The camber is in on the front tires and i get some pretty good clunks when I go over bumps in the road. Steering wheel is tight. I jacked it up and tried wiggling the tires but i couldn't get them to move like that. I'm assuming ball joints still though right? And if so, how hard of a job is that for a DIY'er?
Also i noticed a bit of a whine coming from under the truck when turning into my driveway. Transfer case I'm assuming? What could cause a slight whine and how do i fix it? I plan on changing the fluid in that too.
I've got a 2003 F150 4x4 supercrew that's got a 9.75" rear end with 3.73 gears. I just replaced clutch packs and spider gear set 2 weeks ago. The last day or two I have noticed that when I make sharp turns that it get a whining like spinning noise. It sounds to me like the spider gears are spinning. It only does it when making sharp turns. There is no noise going down the highway or normal driver. I have noticed at times I get a little shutter when I go to take off or back up. Kinda feels like a brake is hanging. I put friction modifier in when I did the clutch packs and everything. Maybe not enough?
View 5 RepliesI recently bought a 2004 XC90 T6. It has several issue and one strange issue is the sluggish performance: the vehicle sort of hesitates, requires quite a bit of acceleration effort to get up to speed, feels 'heavy', and in general does not seem to have the right amount of power. What makes the issue strange is that performance improves, noticeably, when the car is starting to run out of fuel, or when the "low fuel" light comes on. It is not a placebo effect: i've verified it several times that soon after the light is on, the vehicle becomes a lot more responsive, accelerates well, engine seems to sound quieter a little even.
I do not know much about cars. I am slowly learning after purchasing this vehicle. I verified that the air filter is clean. It has synthetic oil put in. I recently changed the spark plugs (very proud of that), that did not seem to improve the performance. My plan is to purchase and configure VIDA diagnostic tool and scan the vehicle while driving. It might also be worth mentioning that the vehicle is getting very poor mpg, averaging to 6 km per little.
One important note: the MAF sensor is faulty: i drive with it being unplugged, however when it is plugged in i experience the same as described above. I know it is faulty because when it is plugged in and the car is started up, the RPM goes to 2000+ and there for up to a minute or longer. If the MAF is unplugged this does not happen.
I have a 2004 Santa Fe 3.5L with 85K miles. TB, WP and all belts changed at 75K. Have had this whine noise when I turn right, very high pitch noise. On top of this there is now Power Steering fluid leaking from the reservoir and base and brackets are full of fluid... Needless to say I assume it is the reservoir seals giving up but why the noise only when I turn right? No noise when I turn left.
What could it be? Also where can I find parts online that are cheaper than the stealership? I called them and they quoted me $72.00 for this piece of plastic!!
What else should I change? There is also some "oil/fluid" coming down a pressure hose but I believe this is due to the oil dripping from the reservoir...
Any manuals I could use to view this? I bought the Haynes manual and it's worthless!
First thing in the morning It seems to take a lot of turning over before it fires, but after it fires up it seems ok untill it sits for some time, Am I dealing with a fuel pump problem?
View 3 Replies1997 Super Duty 7.5 has a horrible "whine" when turning the wheels or hitting the brakes. Weird thing is, when I have the front end jacked up it goes almost completely away when turning the wheels. It is still there, and just as loud when I hit my brakes, but the brakes never were as loud as it was when I turned the wheels. I am guessing it is something to do with the steering gear or tie rod ends or something that I have absolutely 0 experience with....
More info on the problem: PS pump was always a bit noisy, but after the truck sat for a while (around a year, drove it every couple months for a few miles) it was ridiculous, so i replaced the pump, cycled all the old ATF out, made sure I had good pressure coming all the way back to the pump, several times. Never ran it dry.
The steering wheel (with wheels on the ground) kicks back on me and has a LOT of play in it before the PS pump kicks in and starts screaming. Jack the front end up, steering is nice and tight, no play, noise is there a BIT (with the hood up and cap off the PS pump) I would imagine under normal driving conditions i probably wouldn't even hear it much, if at all.
With my very limited mechanic knowledge I would assume that something is making it very hard for my wheels to turn, which is straining my PS pump, but what!?!?!?!?