Volvo - V50 :: 2008 - Thumps When Braking Hard
Oct 29, 2015
I recently had work done on my Volvo 2008 V50. The front axles were replaced, new brake pads in front, and new calipers and pads in the rear. When I got the car back the brake pedal would go to the floor... turned out the master had been compromised when the mechanics were bleeding the system. That was replaced (at no charge) as well.
All seems well except that now when I brake suddenly, which happens a lot in So Cal traffic, I feel a thump under the floor. I don't hear anything but can feel thump or a knock right under my feet (driver's side). This only happens when braking quickly. Braking at a slow speed does not produce the thump.
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I have noticed the last 3 times I hit the brakes really hard above 100 mph ( even 120 mph) I hear a whirling noise coming from either the front brakes or tires. Kind of sounds like when you have really old summer tires on the car and you make a stop on the street . I have heard this on the track the last 2 track days I had. I know my front tires (Michelin PSS) are about 40% worn but are still in pretty good shape.
My rotors are the same that carried me through 6 track days in 10 months and was recently told by the dealership that my front pads need to be replaced sooner than later ( they were installed 10 months ago before all the track work ) and I am assuming the rotors are beat up pretty goo . I will be getting new tires in the next few months and will most likely be replacing pads and rotors at the next scheduled service. The car has 34k on it. Is this normal with Brembos or aggressive brakes?
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I have a 95 940 turbo that shakes really bad when braking. things I have done so far are.
1. Replaced all four rotors.
2. Replaced all four callipers.
3. Replaced sway bar control arms.
The shaking is so bad that the gear shift moves back and forth when braking.
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My car makes a series of about 6 hammering sounds that come from the rear of the car--only after coming to a complete stop. It only happens after I've reversed out of a parking spot (not if I go out forward) and it only happens when I've come to a complete stop the first time, it doesn't knock at any other time.
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First off, vehicle is a 1993 Volvo 240, 5 speed with 131,000 miles
1) Temperature gauge is reading hot, but I believe it's running at a normal temperature. I read a few things discussing this issue. First off, a yellow wire that runs through the firewall becomes corroded (as do all Volvo wires of this age!) What exactly is this wire and what does it lead to? Could I just rerun that wire with possibly a thicker gauge? My dads an electrician so no worries with the wiring. More commonly, however; I read that the temperature compensation board fails and gives erratic readings! is this board expensive and how difficult is it to replace? I have experience with this dashboard because I rebuilt my odometer and installed a tachometer, that gives you my basic level of expertise.
2) My passenger side rear fog light won't work, a new bulb didn't fix the problem, what could it be?
3) My car shakes kind of vigorously while braking, especially at LOW speed!? I replaced front pads and rotors, what else could the problem be?
Volvo.jpg ( 2.19MB )
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We just bought a 2011 XC90 in Jan 2011. About a week ago we noticed that when you are using the brake and turning a corner there is a weird noise coming from the front end. It only does it at low speeds. It doesn't do it if you turn and you are not pressing the brakes. You can also feel it in the brake pedal as well. I hope this makes sense. We love this car and really don't want to regret that we bought it. Just really confused on how a 2 month old vehicle can be already making a weird noise.
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I drive a 92 Volvo 240 with under 100,000 miles on it. Previous owner never really drove it, had it for about four years now. During the winter we seem to have electrical issues; back in 2009 I turned the car on after going shopping and drove immediately, while driving I got a green light and was braking around the corner the car just cut out completely. Got it to a mechanic and they replaced the whole electrical system, issues never reappeared for another two years. 2010 only issue was it need a new transmission, so I put in a used one. Four months later, February I believe, this time it would not start at all and it was night time. Got it towed to the mechanic and the next day he called me, said nothing was wrong with it started right up.
Now we are here November 22, 2011 and the car has cut out on me twice in the pas week. The first time was a dark cold night, got it towed to the mechanic and started up the next day like nothing was the issue. The mechanic joked that it likes to play dead and it starving for attention. The second time it was in broad day light and it started about again 30 minutes later.
3 out 4 times my car cut it happened while applying the brake and from a short distance from where it was parked. Also note that during the night during the winter the battery light will have a light glow to it, also when purchased the owner put it a newer radio system, sometimes when the brakes are applied it will cut out, during the winter is when its more common.
After it happened a third time and the mechanics were stumped, I decided to go to a much reliable source.
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I got a phaeton v8, I feel a big shudder in the whole car while I have an amount of pressure on the brakes. for example: when approaching a red traffic light soft braking: no shudder, half braking: shudder and when hard braking the shudder is gone again. what could be the problem?
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I have 2014 Ram Outdoorsman hemi. When braking hard engine stalls. Starts right back up. Took to dealer under warranty, only 35k, he diagnosed it for 10 weeks. Said it happened several times for him. Computer does not trip code for problem. He said their is a problem but he does not know what it is and can not fix it, without an error code.
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The condition is the vehicle has a hard start condition after it has run (warmed up) and sat for a short period of time (10-15 minutes). I replaced Thermo Time Switch this weekend. The condition still exists.
I checked the voltage to the cold start valve after the Thermo Time Switch was installed. It briefly went to 8.5, then 9 (all in less than one second) then back to zero (not O.L)
The fuel check valve was serviced in 12/2006.
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2005 Prius w/90,000 miles.
This morning I got in my Prius and started the car. I was waiting for my son and almost absentmindedly I put my foot on the gas enough to get the ICE revving up. The car was parked with a very slight incline forward (a few degrees at most). After a few seconds the car thumped backwards. It then continued to do that continuously with a thump about once a second. It's not a hard thump, but it's very noticeable.
It is almost as if a very small amount of power is being applied in reverse and then released quickly. I shut the car down and was able to replicate the issue. There are no error codes on my OBD2 and no unusual engine lights. Is it normal?
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2011 Santa Fe with 3.5L V6 and AWD, 38000 Kms:
Very recent work (last month or so) - new battery (old one had a bad cell), brake light switch and for a repair of the seat adjustment bar (not sure what it is called). The most recent oil change was done by me in November and I have only put about 1600 kms on it since. I put 5W20 Castrol Syntec and a made in Korea WIX filter. I fill the oil to just a hair below the top dot on the dip stick. I torque everything properly.
OIL LIGHT PROBLEM:
When I was driving home from work this evening, I had to brake a little harder than I normally would when I was turning into the back lane (about 8 houses from my house). I thought I saw the oil light come on, but I wasn't sure. I continued down the lane when someone walked out in front of me and I had to brake again. This time, the oil light did come on for sure and then went off when I took the brakes off. It was -20 C outside, so I continued to my house which was now 4 homes away. I braked to go into my (heated!) garage and the light came on again as soon as I touched the brakes.
I decided to let the car sit for an hour to get an accurate reading on the dip stick. I checked it and the level read exactly where I had filled it - just a touch below the top dot. I took the oil filter out to check that it was still seated properly and was not obviously clogged. It looked just fine. No signs of any leaks in the engine compartment or under the vehicle. I decided to take the car out again to go around the block - maybe not a great idea. The light didn't come on again when I braked until the vehicle had warmed up again.
What could the problem be?
I guess I need to take it in, but I start work at 7 AM and my wife is on maternity leave and she needs a car tomorrow. So, this means me taking the Yaris is out. She can't take the Santa Fe to the dealer with my infant son and so I guess I have to get it towed. This is bullshit. This POS has been in the shop several times since November.
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The DSG in my MY08 R32 is a lemon. It thumps/clunks quite loudly when shifting into 6th gear at low speed (50-60km). It seems to make the noise a lot when it's in D mode.
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Was standing in the driveway when someone was leaving in the Prius -- All of a sudden three or four thumps -- I guess when the ICE started -- sounded just like a slapping belt ... but no belts correct? ...... this was loud.
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So we have a new 2011 Tiguan with about 3,300 miles. I noticed a while ago that when coming to a stop, or rolling a few feet and stopping the driveline would almost "thump" when stopped. You can feel it like the torque converter is releasing, or it's engaging a gear and almost moving forward a bit. The other day it seemed to be getting worse, and it's very repeatable as an issue. This is our second Tiguan, the previous being 4motion and this one being FWD.
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Sons saturn will not go into gear after a hard braking action. The shifter will move, the car just acts like it is in nuetral, engine revs with gas, no movement in any gear or reverse. After waiting for a few minutes he can put it in gear and go as if nothing happened. I have checked the fluid, its nice pink and clear and full. He says it has happened 3 times in the past week, has driven it for over a year with no major problems. He is 17, but seems decent with a manual.
I have tried to replicate but can not the car drive good, no shifting problems on normal driving and no check engine lights.
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When I brake very hard my right front wheel will skid, it releases quickly if I modulate the brakes. I removed the calipers to check for any frozen pistons. They are free. Pads are even and the rotors are good. I did bleed the system and no difference. what would cause this? Since I have looked at the mechanical aspect I wonder if there is sensor issue, is that a potential? I am not even sure if there is a sensor.
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I have never experienced what others have described as the brake delay issue, neither before nor after the ABS recall. I have even purposely driven over rough patches of road to try to duplicate.
After two days of rain, I noticed yesterday that my brake rotors were rusty. I remembered a comment from qbee42 about putting the car in neutral while braking in order to remove regenerative braking and to force friction braking to clean rusty rotors.
Yesterday I was approaching a stop light with plenty of distance and no one in front. I started braking around 45 mph with regenerative braking and then pulled the shift lever to neutral. When in neutral and with the regenerative braking removed, I felt the decrease in braking when transitioning to friction braking and I had to brake a little harder in order to have the same amount of braking as before in regenerative braking.
I can see where someone can "perceive" this as a surge forward but I only interpreted this as a decrease in braking force, as others have stated here many times.
I tried this again at the next stop light and felt the same "sensation" again and had to brake slightly harder when in neutral in order to have the same braking force. It was apparent to me that for the same brake pedal position that the friction brakes do not exert as much braking force as the same pedal position with regenerative braking.
Is this similar to what others are reporting as "brake delay" or "surge forward" issues?
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Have to braked hard enough for ABS to be activated, (like for a red light you weren't paying attention to) and the hazard flashers activate?
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I just recently got a 2004 r32 and it came with almost brand new rotors/pads, at most 500 miles on them. I just realized the other day that when driving freeway speeds, about 70-80 and braking down to 40-50 the entire cabin shakes.
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When I brake hard. My truck wants to veer right. It drives straight otherwise.
I recently had my front shock replaced and prior tp that my truck did the same thing, although it was much worse since my left front shock was leaking. Originally I thought it was pulling because of the bad shock but now that thet've been replaced I am not to sure.
Alignment issue or something else entirely? Coud bad rear shocks cause the issue?
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