Volvo - V50 :: 2002 Dead Less Than 75000 Miles - Engine Blown
Apr 17, 2011
My daugther 2002 Volvo V50 blow an engine because of the time belt slipped She had only had less than 75000 and was relgious about her mx checkups timely and by only Volvo Mechanics. She is a Service member in Gemany and the Germany dealer say there is nothing she can do. How to get this engine replaced or even credit for a new volvo. The Engine is gone and the mechanic said 7000 Euro. The car blue book at 9500 Euro.
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I have an 02 S60 T5. Everything on my dash is dead. It on occasion works for a minute in the morning when extremely cold but then as always the ABS light comes on with the red exclamation mark below or above it and the message centre saying brake failure, please stop immediately. Of course no break failure, when it the dash does work all functions work fine. But the most I get out of it is a minute or so. It does not track mph and speed/odometer does not work, message centre etc.
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So I recently bought a 2002 volvo s60 base sedan with a dead instrument cluster. I sent it out to be repaired and when I got it back and plugged it in, it did not work. At first I thought it was the company who repaired who messed up, but I looked up the numbers on the cluster and it is out of a 2001 Volvo. I have no way of contacting the previous owner to find out if they tried swapping out the cluster with one from the junkyard, or if they have the original cluster.
I don't know what to do because I cant send the cluster back to the company since I don't know if its the original one or not. Is there any way I can find out what the original numbers are on my cluster. Is there any way to find out the original numbers on the cluster using my vin number? I called the volvo dealer and all they gave me was the part number for a new cluster.
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Driving to work yesterday my engine shuttered and then shut off. The Display said low oil pressure and then powered down, all in about 15 seconds. Dealer called me today told me the engine is blown and is in the hands of Ford now. The only thing he told me was sit back and wait, I can not tell you how long it's going to be. but I am going to be screwed as far as work goes.
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I have a 2002 Chrysler Sebring that broke down. Unfortunately it ran out of oil, and I was told that the car has 2 sensors that detected the lack of oil and shut down the engine. A local auto repair shop replaced the sensors. I paid the bill and began to drive the car home but I only got 20 miles away when the engine blew. My question is, if the the shop told me the car was fixed and then the engine blew, aren't they somehow liable for this?
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As part of my 2 months saga of a defective transmission (LINK) the main 150 amp fuse between the battery and the alternator was found blown (after the dealer had for a week) and replaced.
Now I picked up my car and the radio will not turn on, does not light up or display anything. Tranny guy said he never tried it, I assume something happened when the main fuse was blown.
I checked both the 5 and 15 Amp fuses in the engine compartment assigned to the radio, both are good.
Is there another fuse inside the radio or something like that?
This is a 2006 Passat Value Edition
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I own a 1992 Volvo 240 and most of my speakers are blown. I want to get new speakers (all 4 of them) but I don't want some old salvaged Volvo 240 speakers. I want to buy some nice new speakers. I'm new when it comes to anything involving changing something in a car, so what speakers will fit and easily take place of those speakers where I won't have to do any unnecessary cutting or modify in order to get them to fit (I don't want holes also).
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Recently while I was stupidly upgrading one of my dome lights while it was on (door open and yes stupid) I shorted it and blew the fuse. Of course jump in the drivers seat and go buy another fuse. To my amazement the car was dead. No power up starting, no door locks no fob operation or anything. The flashers and brake lights and horn worked fine and that was it.
What a great single point immobilizer!
Problem is you will lose clock, settings like reverse beep off, mpg, etc. I was dead in the water until I remembered in the engine fuse box there is a spare 15a fuse (and the fuse puller). The dome light fuse is there as well. Replaced the dome light fuse and all is well. Drove off like I had saved the world. Very strange. Looking at the wiring the junction block that the dome light fuse feeds also feeds LOTS of other areas of the car including the ECU.
Want to keep your kids from driving the car. Forget taking the keys. Pull the dome light fuse.
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My 2000 2.5 V6 TDI Passat has just died.. was doing 60-70 and went to change gear and the engine cut out, tried to restart and its just cranking over and over. Did have a message on the display and the glow plug light on when i was coasting something about management but didn't get the whole message, wasn't on for long.
The recovery guy reckons it might be the crank sensor.
The cambelt should have loads of miles and time left before it goes.
I'd like to sort this myself or at least be sure of what the problem is before i take it anywhere, so what to check for?
There's fuel in the filter and it turns over fine (it could be my paranoia but maybe cranking a little fast)
i just changed a CV joint to fix one problem yesterday, this is the last thing i need!
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I got my battery replaced Monday evening and drove it home. Tuesday it drove fine, and Wednesday afternoon the power steering went out on the road and the car pretty much died after I was able to pull into a neighborhood. Before it died all the warning lights kept flashing and a bunch of other stuff on the dashboard was going crazy.
The AAA tech came and did a reading on the battery and told me it was dead, and also noticed there was a mark on one of the terminals which he said was the result of someone trying to jump it (whether incorrectly or not, I'm not sure). All the settings in my car were also reset after I got the car back Monday night.
Anyways, I got the car taken to a dealership and they are telling me the alternator fuse is done and needs to be replaced, upon which they will do another check and make sure the alternator itself is working properly.
My question is, is this the result of the battery being put in improperly/incorrectly?
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I have a 1998 volvo s70 with 273k on it. I am pretty sure the head gasket is blown. The shop I usually take my car to said i need to take it to a dealer and that volvo usually wants to replace the engine on a car that old. Would you pay the 6k for a new engine or think about a new car?
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Am i correct in starting to look into why I can't hook a scanner or Torque Pro bluetooth up to my truck and starting with blown Cig lighter fuse? (Cig lighter doesnt work, power port does)
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I believe my head gasket is blown, but no one really knows what's wrong with it.. Car stalled & then smoke came out the oil tank an coolant tank an muffler? I just got this car used a month ago.. where to start..
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My wife has a 2002 Volvo S60 that we share with ~165,000 miles on it now. In the last 4-5 years or so, it developed this problem of feeling like the whole engine is shaking when we start it up sometimes. It can go days or even a week where we don't have this problem and then all of a sudden it happens one morning or afternoon, or whenever without any rhyme or reason. While it's shaking, the lights on the dash go in and out with the shaking (going between dim and bright). What also happens right before the shaking sometimes is that the engine will rev itself, like its got a mind of its own, sometimes up to 2000 RPMs, like I am pressing on the gas pedal and holding it, but I'm not! It will stay revved up for a good 10 secs or so then come down on its own and proceed to shake. We usually turn the car off, then on again and it goes away. If it doesn't go away, then we repeat (off/on).
We've taken it to the dealer multiple times, including in different cities since we happened to move in the last few years to another city and still, no one can solve the issue. She swears it all started happening after we went a week without the gas tank lid after it got left off by accident after we pumped gas one time. I noticed it was missing definitely within < 7 days and got a replacement right away from the auto store. Not sure if that has anything to do with it?
The car otherwise still runs fine but we just never know when the shaking thing is gonna happen next. It can even happen on the highway when we are driving. You can be trucking along at 70 MPH or so and then ease up on the gas and we'll feel it in the gas pedal and the car...it will jolt and shake a little until we rev the engine above whatever speed we had decelerated to when the shaking started.
When the shaking has happened, I have gotten out of the car to examine under the hood and cannot see anything in particular, the whole thing is just moving like normal and shaking a bit and then eventually if you leave it long enough, it stops on its own.
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I own a 2002 Volvo S40 Turbo with the following problem. Every now and then the "Check Engine" light comes on. Then, when I turn the ignition off, the car shakes violently for several minutes. Last time this happened, I took the car to the dealer, and the computer diagnostics came up with this message: ECM-44 MISSFIRE, EMMISSION LEVEL, FAULTY SIGNAL INTERMITTENT FAULT. What is wrong, and how it can be fixed?
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I have a 2002 volvo S60 2.4T that I just had the check engine light come on so I pulled the codes and here is what I found,
PO403
PO611
P1378
P2623
So my question is what does this mean ? what is wrong ?
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I have Camry 2002 LE which has 110000 miles on it. After last winter in Pittsburgh, first time I drove it for 200 miles continuously and all of sudden the engine started making very loud sound after 2-3 hrs drive and I had to pull it off.
When you give more gas, the sound increases even further. It is very load and unbearable. I called AAA and mechanic advised something wrong with engine and I cannot drive it anymore so have to tow it.
The sound is coming from engine and it is very very load. I will take it to mechanic tomorrow but what would have gone wrong. Is it the end of my car life?
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Did the blue spring upgrade today. The driver side battery was disconnected for 2 hours. After finishing the upgrade I reconnected the battery. When I touched the positive cable to the battery I heard a fuse blow. Now I have no lights, chimes, instruments, gauges, NOTHING, everything is dead. Cannot find any fuse blown. Is there a master fuse?
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So, upon taking my car in for a dead wheel and tire due to pothole incident, I was told that my alternator needs to be replaced. I am in a bit of shock as the car is only 2 years old and only has 16,000 miles.
The service advisor that I spoke with states that it could break as a result of charging a dead battery. This confounds me more, as I thought jump starting a car was not an operation that would take out an alternator.
Luckily this is a repair covered under warranty, whether or not this was a valid reasoning for the failure or an alternator. If so, what have been supposed to do if battery dies?
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Recently, my radiator fan stopped working. Its a 2013 Elantra GLS with 54K Miles on it. Summers are scorching in my region (hovering around 50 C so I take extra care anyway. Was surprised to find out one such scorching afternoon that the fan stopped working so even the A/C failed. Took it to the mechanic, who diagnosed and said the fan motor is spoil. I was hoping it was the temperature sensor.
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Last month my 2001 Volvo s60, just shy of 100K needed maintenance - i'm the original owner planned to have this car for many more years - let the dealer do 95K scheduled maintenance, new breaks, timing belt and more - for just until $4k. Yesterday my transmission stopped working. Dealer says $5500 to fix. Husband is done and wants to pull the plugs it worth fixing? Is this something dealer should have seen coming at last service?
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