We have an 04 Volvo V40 which won't idle when it's cold out, especially at altitude. Not all the time- it seems to be somewhat random, but it is getting more frequent. Our mechanic has replaced the MAP and TCV sensors and that didn't make any difference. What to try next? It recently passed an emissions test, so when it idles, it runs fine.
View 6 RepliesI have a 1994 Volvo 940 and have previously owned a 740 for many years. I've only owned this car for about 1 month. The car appears to have been well cared for. Doesn't leak a drop of any fluids, everything works, and mostly a really nice old car. What happens is that it idles rough when it's cold. In fact, I have to pump the gas pedal to keep it going. When I first start off, the performance is less than what it should be too. Once it get warm, it mostly runs fine.
I have so far replaced, the Plugs, Wires, Cap & Rotor. All the vacuum lines, crank position sensor, Air Mass Meter and the fuel filter and most all the fuel lines too. The Fuel Pump Relay was replaced but I removed it and saw a few cold solders and fixed those but no changes in performance. Before I replaced the Air Mass Meter I brought it to local shop and they returned a readout of 2-3-2 which I'm understanding means running too lean. That's why I replaced the Air Mass Meter. (I did notice a big improvement once I replaced the Air Mass Meter too.) It was interesting that when I replaced the Distributor Cap, I noticed like black carbon in there and I'm not sure what could cause that. Although, I did find the previous plugs were not all the same. Three of them were high spark performance plugs and one was just normal
I pulled the Idle Air Control Valve and plugged one side to ground and the other side to 12V and noticed the flapper moving when powered on/off. The previous owner told me he replaced both fuel pumps about two years ago. It also looks like the fuel regulator valve is mostly new.
I'm guessing now that I have a problem with the Idle Air Control Valve or perhaps the Fuel Temp Sensor under the intake manifold. I purchased the Fuel Temp Sensor and just have not installed it yet. I really don't want to remove the intake manifold but I know it's not going to be that bad. I know that it could be carbon build up on the intake valves but I'm not quite convinced yet. I put some fuel cleaner in the tank to see if that works and so far nothing yet. The car only has 150K on it and I was told that during the owner before me did do highway driving.
When it's warm, the car does run very very well. The idle is still a bit quirky even when warm. For instance, when I power on the A/C, the idle RPM doesn't increase like I expect that it should. (It did on my 740) ... I'm still thinking maybe it's the Idle Air Control Valve too. Perhaps it's intermittent or do I understand that they can gradually open and gradually close?
I have been looking for a solution to a noise my 07 S60R GT has been making for about two months now. After a cold start there is a chriping/whistling noise that lasts a few minutes at idle. The noise will go away at idle but is constant under heavy load in any gear. The Volvo dealer told me it was the SNABB intake but the noise started well after I installed this with no noise initially. They said its not from sepentine belt or pulleys. It sounds as though its coming from the turbo area. Car still drives/pulls fine but makes shrieking / chirping / whistle when I get on it ( which is most of the time).
View 1 Replies04 Elantra GLS, AC works great and is icy cold at higher RPMs but gets hot when stopped at idle or driving low speed. Fan works, refrigerant level is correct. At low idle speeds the compressor just shuts off. A few minutes later or if the engine speed picks up it will engage and start cooling again. AC tech didn't think it was the compressor since the pressure difference between the high and low sides was in the correct range. Has this issue fixed by replacing the pressure sensor/switch on the high pressure side? It doesn't look like there is a low pressure side sensor that I can see.
View 2 RepliesMy 07 F-150 5.4 has a rough idle during a cold start for about 1 minute. It happens mostly when the weather is chilly or cold. Also after the first start it doesn't do it the rest of the day. Of coarse they can't find anything wrong and tell me there are no updates for anything like that.
View 3 RepliesI own a 2005 volvo s40 i5. Recently I noticed that my dashboard gets extremely hot after just couple minutes of driving. Originally I thought this has something to do with the car's black interior. However, my suspicion changed when I noticed that the dashboard became very hot even on cold rainy days. (Below 60 degrees) This presented couple issues while driving.
1) On cold days, my windshield would fog up very easily.
2) on hot days, the cabin of the car can be intolerably hot. Both of my check engine light and my airbag warning lights are on.
However, auto mechanics cannot diagnose the problem because they can't get a reading through the diagnostic scanner. They said most likely the car has a electrical short somewhere.
What the problem is? Could it be an electrical short that cause excessive heat in the dash? Maybe the engine heat is venting into the dashboard? Fix?
My car is blowing cold air but no heat at all. I checked the codes and it's throwing a B1 1-3-1. It's also throwing a A7 1-2-2. a buddy of mine is a mechanic but not too familiar with Volvo's. But he said that he thinks the B1 1-3-1 Driver's side air duct short is the problem. Is this the problem and how do I fix it?
View 3 RepliesI have a 1998 Volvo S90. I usually have to charge the a/c once a year to keep it cold. Today while driving the a/c went from cold to hot almost instantly. I turned it off, waited a minute and turned it back on. Cold just like normal. Two minutes later, hot air again. Turned it off again, waited a few minutes, turned it on, cold air but only for about 30 seconds. This was all done while driving. What might be causing this?
View 2 RepliesThere are two issues with my 1994 Volvo 940 (automatic). They may or may not be related, but that is why I'm asking.
1) When the engine is cold and at a stop sign the engine will rev up and down. After the engine warms up, the issue goes away.
2) Also when the engine is cold, when taking off from a stop the car doesn't seem to want to go.
You can mash the gas all the was down and it just kind of slowly gains speed. Eventually (5-10 seconds) it will act like normal and go and shift fine. I hope that is enough info and makes sense. I'm just trying to see what the problem could be and how to fix it.
I have a 2005 VOLVO TRACTOR, Autoshift, Cummins ISX. Recently the Dashboard only works at "cold" condition, after 5~20 minutes of starting the engine, the information Display shows up: check lights control module, check vehicle ECU, check air bag, check climate module, finally show "check datalink". Speedmetre, RPM, oil pressure, water temperature gauges and gear position are all dead, only Fuel, Air, Pressure and Turbo gauges work. We have replaced new dashboard, but nothing changed. And we checked J1939 communication wire OHMS is 60 at either back of dashboard plugs and data link. All modules are working good except information module. When dash was out, we did connect the laptop via datalink. We could communicate with ECU normally. The problem looks like the dashboard is so sensitive and easily quits working. We had checked batteries and main ground cables and all fuses. We did the test, after removing all lights control module fuses, ABS module fuse, climate fuse etc., the dashboard sometimes works
View 3 RepliesI have a 1996 volvo 850 when ever its cold outside my engine doesnt wanna start. when it cranks it doesnt stay going it idles down then stalls. What to look for or why its doing this?
View 2 RepliesI have a 1983 Volvo GL 240 Auto trans. I've owned this car for a very long time ~20 years and have never had a problem with it. Since mid Autumn this year (currently Winter in Australia) when starting the car after it has been raining, left overnight in the cold or it is a particularly moist day the car will not start properly.
What happens is the car will start and I accelerate to take off the car will lose significant revs, stall and die. If I can get it out from the driveway and onto the road continuously for 5 minutes the car will run fine for the rest of the day.
But if I stop (to a halt) during this period and try to accelerate the car will again lose revs, stall and die. It is very hard from this point to get the car started again as the same thing continues to happen.
I have changed the spark plug leads, engine oil and trans fluid.
I have an 89 Volvo 244 DL series. I have had a complete tune-up, and oil change just recently. Battery works great, plenty of voltage, even had the fuel injection cleaned out.
Problem is the car starts right up when it is cold, however, after driving it and let it set for an hour the car starts up slower and immediately it stalls out. I do it again and the same thing happens and then I leave my foot on the pedal to keep it running at a higher idle for a bit and then place into a gear & it goes without any hesitation. If by chance I do not leave foot on pedal and put it in whatever gear it immediately stalls out. I have driven Volvo's for years, from the 70's to what I have currently. I never had encounter anything like this and have dealt with many other issues and this one has me baffled.
5 Speed Manual in an 85 740 GLE Diesel. The overdrive does not engage until the car has been running 15 minutes or so. What causes this?
View 3 RepliesXc 90 D5 2.4 2005 diesel, will not start when it's cold (below +5 degrees), If I use the pre heater for 3 min it starts fine.
I have checked the injectors (leak back test). I checked the glow plugs and they all glow red when I turn on the ignition.
No error codes (Volvo has checked)
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My '91 240 races when turned on when motor cold, colder it is the moreso, especially in Park and Neutral till it calms down It's happening under 60 degrees Fahrenheit and big time under 32. Sometimes turning steering wheel sharply will stop this. Is this ECU? Transmission? Belts? There seems too show excess transmission fluid on the dipstick, by the way lately, which may have been that way from accidental overfill and may not be related t this insane racing issue.)
View 1 RepliesMy mechanic installed a battery about a year and I have to get my battery charged each time the weather gets cold or snowy. I have had the battery charged 2 times this month.I have had this same problem last year calling motor clubs to charge my battery. My car is snowed in and shovel is stuck in my trunk because it will not open because my car wont start. I do not even know if there is a warrantee on the battery ...it may be a used battery.
View 7 Repliesmy 2007 3.2 s80, 75 K miles, will not respond to accelerator for the first 1-2 miles after a cold start, then runs fine, no check engine light has shown. Per shop recommendation switched to 92 octane x3tanks, then replaced fuel sensor, neither solved.
View 15 RepliesI have a 2007 S60 FWD 2.5T. My mechanic told me that at some point, I had an oil leak from my rear camshaft seals. After doing some research, I checked my oil dip stick and at idle, I could see white smoke coming out of it.
Looks like I need a new PCV Valve. I did some research online and a bunch of vendors sell the PCV kits. [URL] ....
Can I just replace the breather box and the associated parts in this kit or do I also need to change the Crankcase Vent Hose ? [URL] ....
Also, since this is going to be a pretty expensive job (with removal of intake manifold etc), are there any other things I should be looking to replace? Car has 115K miles.
The condition is the vehicle has a hard start condition after it has run (warmed up) and sat for a short period of time (10-15 minutes). I replaced Thermo Time Switch this weekend. The condition still exists.
I checked the voltage to the cold start valve after the Thermo Time Switch was installed. It briefly went to 8.5, then 9 (all in less than one second) then back to zero (not O.L)
The fuel check valve was serviced in 12/2006.
Car has begun to idle very fast ( comes and goes ) ( 1992 240 ) ....
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