Volvo - V40 :: 2000 - Starts But Dies Unless High RPM / Stalls Out If Idle Slows
Feb 9, 2013
I'm struggling with an intermittent (of course) issue where, esp. if cold, I can't start my car unless I give it lots of gas. If I take my foot off the gas at all, it will stall, which means I drive this automatic two-footed (one foot on brake, one on gas) , giving it lots of gas at all times, including when stopped. After about 10 minutes it is fine, and is then good for the rest of the day. My trusted Volvo-spscific repair shop has tried replacing booster pressure sensor, fuel pressure regulator (both indicated by engine codes) and new plugs. The end result is I've got $500 into the car that does seem to run better when it starts, but the original issue is unsolved. I was thinking something is sticking with a cold start, or idle speed is incorrect, but can't figure it out. Seems like it should be an easy fix.
View 2 Replies
Advertisement
My 2000 Volvo S70 just started stalling while driving: it completely dies while in motion. This has happened 4 times in the past week, both times (oddly) in the morning on my way home from the gym. Both times, it's happened we have had very damp weather, and it's the second start-up of the morning. It has happened at slow speeds, and it feels as though it is out of gas, but it is not.
View 1 Replies
I have a 2000 volvo S40 19T, it starts up, and will run just fine if you give it any amount of gas, but it just wont idle. I unplugged the MAF sensor and it ran the same. I then took the IAC valve off and put a towel over the port (To let some gas in but not completely shut it off) It runs GREAT like that! I kept the IAC plugged in and the towel over the port, started her up and put a lot of pressure on the towel to cut of all air, the car idle went really really low and then it shut off. Now since the car knows it is stalling, and it needs more air I should be able to see the IAC opening and closing (Remember it is plugged in, but in my hand), it didn't move at all!
I have run the car with my towel over the IAC ports and chased all around the intake manifold and other intake duct work with carb cleaner to try and fine vacuum leaks to no avail. I even did the towel trick with a multimeter hooked up to the wires that plug into the IAC valve, it is getting a small amount of voltage, say 2 to 3 volts, but the new valve still won't open, and I have yet to confirm that the current changes with idle fluctuations when I press on the towel.
View 4 Replies
A few days ago, I went to start the car, and it will start, and idle fine for a few seconds, and then begin to run crappy, idle down, and die. I tried starting it, and giving it some accelerator pedal, and it dies. I changed the timing belt, idler pulley, and tensioner this summer, so I'm ruling out a bad timing belt. There is no check engine light, and I replaced the plug wires because when I removed the cover, I noticed one of them was worn in a spot, and the wire shielding inside the rubber insulation was visible.
View 11 Replies
Cold start. engine starts but wont idle, just dies. rpms drop. Restart same. Must neutral drop to get going keep rpms up until engines shifts then things are fine until next cold start. Cleaned throttle, changed air filter, dry gas, injector cleaner, no warning signal, scans clean. 180k miles.
View 6 Replies
My 2001 volvo S60 starts then dies.
View 2 Replies
I have a 99 Volvo V70. Sometimes when I start it, it turns over and then dies right away. It may do it once, or it may do it several times, but it will start start eventually. I am bringing it in to the garage next week, but they don't seem to think they will be able to fix it unless it happens while the car is in the garage. Since it doesn't happen every day, I'm worried that they won't be able to fix the problem. If so, why did your car die right after starting?
View 5 Replies
We have a problem with our 1992 240 wagon. When it rains the car starts first thing in the morning but then stalls after driving 2 miles. After letting it sit for a few min. and cranking the engine it starts and will run. If we let the car run for 10 min. before driving everything is good for the day unless the car is parked for a period of time. Then it start and we need let it idle before driving. We have had the Mass air flow sensor replaced twice and that solves the problem for a few months.
This past week the car has started to stall on a damp morning even with the sun shining. Then later in the day it runs rough at a stop or stalls.
View 1 Replies
I am working on my father's boss' 2004 Phaeton V8. The car usually sits on the weekends. What it is doing is, it will start and run smooth, but after 15 seconds, on the dot, it stalls and dies. It sounds like it is starving for fuel.
What I have done so far:
LH intake actuator arm found broken, replaced both with "Gruvenparts"
Checked all fuses and relays
LH fuel pump reads 14 volts until the relay kicks it off
Tested fuel pressure-good
Batteries fully charged
LH fuel pump reads 0.7 ohms w/key off
RH fuel pump reads 6.0 M-ohms when first connected and gradually climbs to 31.5 M-ohms
(I assumed this meant RH pump was bad and so I pulled it out and bench-tested. Ran perfect and tested at 0.7 ohms out of the car)
Re-assembled everything to pull the car out of the shop, and wouldn't you know it started and ran like normal.
Road-tested for 2 hours the next day without any problems.
So, I call the customer to pick it up and he says he will be there 2 days later.
View 15 Replies
My 1999 Volvo V70 is having intermittent issues starting/stalling out. Sometimes it will start right up and go, other times, it will start and the rpms will fluctuate then it stalls/shuts off or will go in gear but fluctuate rpms erratically it will do this multiple times after 3 or more restarts it will run fine until it is turned off then the same thing all over again.
View 2 Replies
I'm driving a 95 buick lesabre, good condition, clean, 130k miles on it. 2 months ago the car started stalling and then it died. Took it to a shop, replaced all original fuel pump and fuel lines. Repeat this about 3 more times, all in all, the fuel pump, fuel lines, map sensor, mass airflow sensor have been replaced. Yesterday, the same thing happened. Took it to a different mechanic, he says he drove it for two days and couldn't find anything wrong with it. Is there anything specific in a 95 lesabre that could be causing this? It drives fine for a while, and then out of nowhere it starts to stall, then the car dies and check engine light comes on. Gas is kept above half a tank due to winter conditions and the fact that it's an old car.
View 8 Replies
I just picked up a 2004 ford escape and information is difficult for me to obtain. Person I purchased from had all new suspension installed. Says it needs new transmission.
My indications: Vehicle starts right up dies/stalls with anything above throttle. Major lack of power. Was able to put in Reverse and it moved a bit and same as drive. Smoke from rear of engine. Seems like coolant dumping into exhaust. shake on exhaust you can hear slosh slosh in exhaust.
No engine trouble codes no lights on dash.
Am I looking at a headgasket? This has the 3.0 duratec v6 with the water pump belt driven by the cam on the driver side. Open up the oil cap there is the timing chain. serpentine belt is on passenger side of engine. There is no coolant/water in the engine oil but the coolant is disappearing FAST. no coolant on spark plugs that indicate its in the cylendars.
Was going to check compression but the compression tester I have only threads up to 14mm. to small for the hole. I can probably rent a tester with proper sizes if needed. Fuel pressure at the rail primes to 60 psi and stays there. Stays at 60 psi while running as well.
View 11 Replies
A minor but persistent (year-long) rough idle on my 1991 240 has quickly turned into a Cold Start Nightmare over the past month:
SITTING HOURS OVERNIGHT (50 to 60-degree temp. overnight) - When I attempt to start in the morning, the engine idles high for 3-5 seconds and then immediately dies. To successfully start, I must keep pressing the accelerator pedal at least half-way down for 2-3 minutes. The engine sputters, almost backfires, shakes, lopes, almost dies, etc. After 2-3 minutes, everything runs just fine.
WARM ENGINE SITTING - Once the engine is warmed up, it will consistently start without problems. Still a slightly rough idle, but OK. The car does not die.
I have changed the battery, coolant temp. sensor, and spark plug wires.
View 3 Replies
what part is causing car to be unable to idle without me keeping my foot on gas till it's warmed up in morning? It does not act like that at lunchtime & 5pm no matter what the temp gauge reads when I get in it at lunchtime & 5pm: at those times, it just cranks and stays on till I shut it off.
View 1 Replies
Yesterday I drove 15 minutes to a store and came out after 15 minutes. With no previous problems, I put the key in the ignition and there was no power at all. I checked the battery and it appeared ok. I opened the fuse box, not really knowing what I was looking for, and it looked dirty with no obvious signs of something wrong, I think. About 5 minutes later the car's power came back on but once started it idled very low and died. I tried it again and kept giving it gas and it kept idleing low and would shut off. I made it home without having to stop the car at all, meaning made all lights and no stop signs, I didnt run anything. At home I turned the car off and back on and everything ran fine. Car idled normally, would start up every time, and I drove around the block without incident. I've read information in the forum about the low idle and stall but didnt see anything that referenced the complete lack of power before the idle problem started.
2002 Toyota Camry LE, 128,000 miles.
View 4 Replies
My 1994 volvo 240 stalls at idle when the engine is warm. It's happening more frequently as the weather gets colder, I'm not sure if that's a coincidence. The car is an automatic and I'm wondering if it could be something as simple as low transmission fluid.
View 1 Replies
I bought a 2012 GTI with 6-speed manual two weeks ago. It has ~42k miles and it has been running great for the past 2 weeks until tonight. Went with my wife and son to the store and then the problems started. We got in the car to leave, it started fine, but died suddenly a few seconds later at idle when we were trying to get my son buckled in. I thought maybe I did something odd and it was me, so I turned the key off and tried to start again. It was a rough start(took a second) then idled roughly under 1k rpm and died shortly after. I tried one more time, same thing. There were no CELs at all, just the battery light after it died like normal.
At this point I'm thinking it may be that the timing chain tensioner gave out and that's the problem, so I decide to get a ride back to the house for my laptop and Vag-Com before trying to start or run it anymore. I get a ride, grab those, and head back to the car. When I get back in the car I realized my laptop battery was dead, so I decided to try to start it one more time. This time is starts just fine and I'm able to drive home without any trouble at all. No hick-ups, no stalls, no low-idle or anything. I was able to run the Vag-Com Auto Scan on my other laptop at the house and will have the readout below.
The only code thrown was on the immobilizer at 69157km which would have been when I had a replacement key cut and coded at the dealership I bought it from(a local VW dealer). I ran this scan with the key on but engine off and after realizing it wasn't giving me any codes at all I decided to run the scan with the engine running. Well, when I tried to start the car to run the scan, it died on me at idle again. So I left the key on(after the car died) and ran the scan and got the same results as below. I was then again able to start the car and drive it around the block and then park with it idling without any problems at all.
I don't understand this at all. The car has been running perfectly until now for as long as I've had it. I just changed the oil and filter this past weekend for Mobil 1 0w50 and OEM filter. And I've only run 93 octane in it, which it currently has a 7/8 full tank. I'll be calling/going by the dealership tomorrow to try and sort this out.
- I just ran VCDS data logging on the fuel system while trying to start my car just now (after sitting for ~30 minutes)
- While running I watched 106 Fuel Rail Pressure - Actual drop from ~40bar down to 6.5bar
- I was able to tap the accelerator peddle and it jumped back up to ~40bar
- After evening back out and not stalling again, I ran Autoscan and came up with:
000135 - Fuel Rail/System Pressure
P0087 - 000 - Too Low - Intermittent
I went ahead and ordered a new fuel pump and seal and received them this afternoon. I've already replaced the pump and have driven around a good bit this afternoon to test things. One of the big things I've noticed is that even though I still have the rear seat bottom out of the car, I can barely hear the new pump, where as the old one was noticeable. I'll update again if I run into any other issues.
View 24 Replies
My 94 850 turbo wagon starts rough and idles very high. the rpms dont come down. After turning car off, wont restart again unless I let in sit for a while.
View 11 Replies
My 1998 Jimmy SLE 4.3L is having issues starting. The vehicle will start but then stop when it settles down to the idle rpm. When i turn the key I get a fuel pressure of around 52-54psi and i can hear the fuel pump running. The odd time when I can get the vehicle to run I get a fuel pressure of 55psi and the engine runs better than it ever has. Since the problem started I have changed the following:
Cap and Rotor
Spark Plugs and Wires
PCV valve
Fuel Filter
No codes showed during a scan and the problem occurs often but occasionally it will start without a problem. My last thought it would be a fuel pump or a fuel pressure regulator. Again, I can hear the fuel pump activate when i turn the key and the fuel pressure is just below 55psi when i turn the key.
View 3 Replies
I have a 1999 B4000 4.0L with 160K miles on it. Bought the truck new. Up until about a year ago it ran perfect but has developed an idle, stalling and occassional jerky ride problem. It occurs at any temperature, engine hot or cold, A/C clutch on or off and in Park, Drive or Neutral. When you start the engine it will not idle unless you keep your foot on the gas. The idle speed will drop to 200-300 rpm and the engine dies. Sometimes you can barely tap the gas pedal and the rpm will shoot up to normal idle speed (about 900 rpm) and stay there a few seconds then begin to drop again. If the engine is cold it will often die a couple times after starting even with the foot on the gas and then about the 2nd or 3rd time run with your foot on the gas.
At stop signs and red lights you have to keep your foot on the gas to keep it running. If you are approaching a stop sign and take your foot off the gas to coast to a stop and brake, the engine rpm will drop and the engine will die. It always starts fine though. Once you are driving it generally runs just fine at low or high speed. You can generally set the cruise control on the expressway and cruise right on. However, sometimes all of a sudden the truck will start bucking and jumping as if it has a terrible misfire. It usually lasts a few seconds and quits. Often if you step on the gas it quits. Even less occasionally the engine will begin to slow as if it is starved for fuel and slow down. You can press the pedal to the floor and it sputters a bit then picks up and runs fine.
I have read about all the threads in this forum and others and tried some of the suggested fixes but it still has the problem. I have tuned it up with new plugs, wires, fuel filter, air filter and PCV valve. Based on some of the forums advice I have replaced the IAC valve, the EGR valve and EGR Pressure Feedback Sensor, and cleaned and inspected the MAF sensor with MAF cleaner. I have checked all my vacuum lines and no leaks there and checked the engine timing which is fine. Fuel rail pressure and engine compression are also fine. Spark plugs show no clues, exhaust is clean and the engine uses virtually no oil. There has been no tear down on the engine like removing the heads, cam, timing gears or any of that and the engine is completely stock.
It shows no codes related to the problem. Two or three months after the problem started I showed a code that indicated an injector problem, traced the problem to a bad injector, replaced the faulty injector and it was fine. That took care of that code but didn't solve the idle problem. In my younger days I was into drag racing and I rebuilt engines, swapped transmissions, etc. and still do my own tune-ups today so I am fairly familiar with auto repair and have most of the tools for testing newer cars but this one stumps me. As a last resort I'm about to take it to the dealer.
View 14 Replies
Went to start this 5.0 TC after it sat idle for a week, and it died within 3-4 seconds. Further attempts resulted in similar response. After some initial checks, I was able to keep the engine running by manually depressing the IAC plunger into the barrel. The engine ran fine as long as I could hold that, but stall immediately after release. Codes: TPS out of range; HEGO HO2S sensor out of range-always lean. Bought a new TPS no change.
Today: With the key "on" and engine off, the fuel pressure is a steady 38psi. There is an air release button on the fuel gauge line and when I pushed that, the gauge pressure dropped to zero and does not come back (until you key off and on again). I removed the IAC from its mount and with the key on--I observed the plunger move inside its body--guessing maybe 1/4 inch. I casually checked all the engine management items I see in books and looked at vacuum hoses and couldn't see anything amiss (also climbed on top of this engine and checked the rear--PCV lines etc.). I removed the fuel regulator vac line and observed no fuel leakage there.
View 1 Replies
