I have an 2001 S 80, T6, with 74K miles. I love the car but have had an issue with it since I bought it in 2004. I hear random clunks, pops, and bang noises in all 4 corners. I can't recreate the noises, they just occur randomly. But they can be loud! I have had the dealer inspect it a few times always telling me that everything looks okay.
View 29 RepliesIt makes knocking noises from all four corners, but mainly, when I make a hard right turn and it knocks it feels like the guts is going to fall out of it. It leaks tremendous amounts of oil from one side of the car to the opposite under the engine, but on checking the oil level, it does not require much topping up. Sometimes when making a hard turn, it's like there is no power steering. After spending copious amounts of money on it, and the problems not going away, the mechanic said to get rid of it. Also, when unlocking the doors manually or by remote, the back left passenger door makes a loud electrical buzzing noise that only started happening after the mechanic fixed the warning lights that kept coming up. That door no longer opens from the outside which means it won't pass a warrant. It was suggested it might be the solenoid? After getting into the car, you can hear a buzzing coming from around the radio area, and I haven't even inserted the key yet. It's such nice looking car and when it drives right, is awesum..
View 1 RepliesSo recently my R has started making noises that sound like they're coming from the rear end. It's hard to describe noises with words, but the noises are seemingly random except they occur more a lower speeds (5-15 mph) and I don't hear them at all above ~35 mph. It sounds like it's coming from the rear axle area, but it's hard to tell. The noises themselves are kinda like thunks, or pops or clicks.
The type of noise actually changes a lot as well: Sometimes it sounds like a popping noise a spring will make with being loaded/unloaded, sometimes it sounds more the thunk you'd get when a loose metal part shifts and hits another metal part. Sometimes is more like a groan you would hear from a large metal ship under stress from a wave or the like...
I have a 2015 sonata sport 2.0t. Great car so far. I have recently started hearing noises in the driver seat when I turn corners ? It's almost a clicking back into place sound and always does it around corners. I took it to my dealership and they could not replicate the problem of course.
View 6 RepliesI have a problem with my Golf 6 GTI '10 - for several months when it rains or when it is wet/humid I've been hearing single irregular dull knocks from the front suspension (sometimes I can hear two quick knocks one after another). Most of the times the knocks are heard from the driver's side (left side) from the front when I drive slowly on roads which are more or less uneven.
The knocking stops when it is warm and dry. My Golf's mileage is 54,000 kilometers. I've checked the suspension many times and everything seems to be perfect.
I have a 2003 Honda Accord V6. It has about 105K miles. The suspension seems a little bouncy. I would like better handling. The car leans a lot when going around corners. I've heard that new Honda struts are not as good for handling as some other brands.
I read that I should replace the dampers and springs together to get better handling. Most of the struts I've read about lower the car, however, I don't really want to lower it. I just want better handling for everyday driving. Am I on the right track?
My 1992 960 automatic wagon with 326K miles has started to kind of lurch into low gear, especially from a stop or a rolling stop where I am not giving any gas but not using the brake. Then when I do give it some gas, it doesn't do anything at first, then it clunks into motion, and it seems to me the rpms are pretty high (3K). Once it gets going it seems fine, and it upshifts and downshifts as expected (well, occasionally it clunks changing gears at highway speeds, but it has done that for a long time). Yesterday during stop-and-go traffic (more than 100 miles worth) I was so stressed out wondering if it was going to completely die.
The winter mode arrow indicators have been stuck On for years, by the way, but it has never acted as if it thought it really was in winter mode (where you start up in third). They didn't think it was worth fixing, as it would have been very expensive and wasn't really affecting anything. I don't think my current issue could be that, though -- surely it wouldn't be clunking into gear then?
My 2006 V6 has about 115k miles. I pulled up and parked the other day and with the car still running, heard a loud "bang" under the right passenger side, and then the compressor wouldn't stop, even with the keys out of the ignition...it was still running an hour later when the flatbed took her away to the dealer.
The car was rear-ended 4 years ago and the back hatch/glass, which operates from the air suspension system, hasn't been able to hold itself up in several years. So there probably really is a real problem with the air system.
Here are questions initial questions I have.
1. From what I've read, it is common that a leak elsewhere in the system caused the compressor to eventually fail. The dealer is telling me that the compressor "blew apart inside" and that it needs to be replaced. Is this reasonable given that the compressor was still audibly operating an hour later?
2. The dealer is telling me that they cannot troubleshoot the rest of the air suspension system without me buying the compressor first. Is this a reasonable approach and level of competence? The service went on to say "We don't see many of these." Should I be worry? I am also concerned that I've read stories about dealer service departments who didn't know/didn't offer up that components of the suspension system can be replaced without the whole, very expensive unit.
3. The SUV was in the dealer 3 days prior for a new drive shaft and some electrical repair in the headlight which included the fuses blowing several times. Could there be any connection or does this sound like coincidence? Any thing I should ask them to protect my interests.
I have been having hub locking trouble and finally located a bad vacuum hose. Hose has been replaced. Now when I engage the 4WD and apply a little power, I get a terrible bang out of the front end, then the truck moves on. Sometimes there is a second bang, sometimes not. The chain appears tight in the transfer case and the ujoints look ok. I have turned the wheels with hubs locked one at a time and the joints are free.
View 9 RepliesStarting having a problem with the front suspension on my 01 excursion. When you go over a incline I am getting a big bang in the front suspension also when you turn the steering wheel to the middle it has a jerk right before its in the straight position.
I have new wheel bearings and new locking hubs coming, this problem still happens without the hubs in. Could it be a front axle or U joint but it happens with the 4x4 disengaged.
I almost bought a Gen 2 Prius, right before the introduction of the Gen 3. Then I waited a few years before I finally bought my Gen 3 Prius.
Don't let this out. But it's bothering me that I'm no longer at the top of the Standard Prius evolutionary chain.
The Gen 4 tribe is chipping rocks to make arrow heads... and using fire to cook meat and provide warmth...
Every time I go over a bump, the term Independent Rear Suspension pops in my head. An instrument panel that has multiple colors. I can only grunt and slobber and take what comfort I can from the pale light of the vacuum tube like glow of the Gen 3 instrument panel.
Attached is a video of my car going over speed bumps. It sounds like a rusty bed spring :/ I dont know what to do. The dealership told me that everything is fine, but i dont believe that.
On another side note, i am also experiencing misfires a lot, and the car feels a little under powered. I dont know what part to replace but i was hoping to get some info on what to do, and yes i took it to the dealer, nothing showed up on the vag and like the previous issue they said the car is fine!! My ideal situation is to have someone drive it and confirm that there's an issue, and then obviously to fix the issue.
My 2004 Volvo S60 has 99,000 miles on it. Just today it started making a quiet noise like an electric golf cart when I accelerate. Also just today it developed a quiet grinding noise when I turn the wheels (but only if the car is moving). I just had a clutch replaced by on the a/c compressor and I have my car serviced according to schedule. What the problem(s) could be?
View 7 RepliesYesterday I had the egg out for its first off-road adventure. The terrain was mostly loose rock with a few boulders to traverse. The egg went great but there was a lot of suspension noises (clunks, clanks, and pops) in the rocky sections. I'm used to four-wheeling with a solid axle Jeep and I was curious if this is a normal occurrence with the egg. I had the air suspension raised to the off-road level and at times it made noises similar to a loose shock.
View 4 RepliesThis afternoon I was out for a drive and on my way home on the highway I had something give on the front passenger side suspension.
There was an "odd" feeling from the steering and then some noises from the passenger side front of the car. As I was slowing down there was more clunking/shuddering as I came to a stop. After stopping I looked at the wheel and noticed it looked "further" out, and had more give when pushing it than it should have.
I then tried to pull the car further off the road and discovered that it would not go into gear to move at all!
This is what it looks like:
Broken Side Above
Drivers Side Above
You can see above how the strap pulled on the tire, I tried loosening the strap on it up but it was still under tension.
My sister's 1991 Volvo 240 automatic. She is scared to drive it. When we push the accelerator fully down while in park the car makes a sound of accelerating hard and decelerating, it occasionally makes the sound of a backfire. All the sounds are coming from under the hood. When in drive it will not actually accelerate past first gear, it will buck back and forth, and still makes the sounds. Its almost like a shutter. Reverse is the same. We recorded the sounds.
View 3 RepliesI have an '04 TRD Doublecab 4x4. I first started hearing a "clunk" upon acceleration, but only occasionally. It started getting worse and would happen pretty much every time I accelerate (although it never got louder, just more frequent). It usually only happens after a full stop (or near stop like in stop an go traffic), and I'd hear it pretty much right when I step on the gas. It seems like it has something to do with the A arms moving forward and back. When you accel, the rear wheels push the vehicle, essentially "sucking" the front wheels back slightly. When in 4wd, the noise is still there. It is quite obvious it's coming from the front right corner. I'm usually pretty handy with a wrench, so I decided to swap the upper A-arm bushings and upper ball joint (ball joint was leaking grease). Noise is still there. I ran out of time/motivation, so I took it to the Toyota dealer.
Here's what they did: -replaced front right coil-over, said it was "loose". That didn't work, so they put the old one back on. -tightened bumper etc..., didn't work. -then they removed the REAR drive-line and put it in 4x4 and drove it around. They say that "fixed" the problem since the noise went away. They were pretty adamant it was the drive line, but I didn't believe them since the noise is OBVIOUSLY coming from the front right. It just seems odd that it'd be the drive line. I took it home and tried what they said, I took the drive line off and drove it around in 4wd. They weren't lying, the noise went away. But since a good friend has an identical truck (but an '03) I switched our drive lines and the noise came back (HA! I was right!!). Driving in "front wheel drive" (no drive line) makes the front wheels "pull" the truck forward, vs in rear wheel drive, the rear wheels "push" the truck, and thus the front wheels will move backward slightly because of wheel/bearing friction.
I think it has something to do with when the front wheel is forced "backwards" but as far as I cal tell, all the suspension components are intact and show no signs of looseness. I can now occasionally hear the noise when under slight accel going over studder bumps like street reflectors or something (but only rarely, it's almost impossible to duplicate that on command. Makes me think a suspension piece is loose (shock/spring or loose bushing), but I NEVER hear the noise under braking, and rarely hear it on those studder bumps (and only for a split second). If it were a loose bushing, wouldn't I hear the clunk under accel AND decel (A arm moving back and forth)??? So I'm basically stumped (so was the dealer!). Ball joints appear fine, wheel bearing has no slop (that I can tell), and it has brand new upper urithane bushings and a new upper ball joint. I KNOW it's not the shock/spring, b/c I even swapped the left/right, and the noise is still there (and didn't move to the other side).
I have had to return my V50 twice for ABS associated problems. The first time to change a speed sensor then to replace the passenger side front hub. Now the car is making a soft shhhhhh sound for a split second whenever I drive off. According to the car manual on page 8, the car tests the ABS system "when the car first reaches the speed of 12 mph... The brake pedal will pulsate several times and a sound may be audible from the ABS control module. This is normal."or so the manual says.
My pedal has never pulsated except when I was having problems with the ABS system. In Honolulu, there is only 1 Volvo dealer and according to them the shhhh sound is normal. The repair tech went so far as to take me for a drive in a new 2011 V50, which did make the same sound. I am concerned only because I feel the braking system is important to me and the history of ABS issues. Volvo Customer service deferred to the dealers' service center. Should I take it in because the brake is not pulsating.
I have a 2002 Nissan Pathfinder 4x4 SE, and I have a strange noise emanating from the front suspension. It's essentially a creaking sound whenever going over speedbumps etc, that lasts only when crossing the bump in question. There is also a distinct ratcheting/popping sound when I more with the wheel at full lock. I've already replaced the front sway bar bushing, recently replaced the struts and springs, lower control arms, and have not noticed any shaking in the tie rods when I try to move them.
View 2 RepliesI've noticed my Gear box in the truck seems to be leaking and been getting some noises when making turns too that i can feel in the steering wheel more than hearing it. (not like air in the system or over steering things like that).. feels more like a grinding feeling.. anyways.. ive had a couple people recommend Redhead gear boxes.. but hadn't ever heard of them till they told me about it.
So was wondering what you all think about the company and for the ones that have gotten them any major issues?? Biggest thing I keep seeing on non-factory gear boxes are mentions of sloppy steering.. they can't be adjusted.. quick failures.. etc. etc... Worried I'd be wasting money getting something not-stock than if I'd had just bought it right from ford...
Just had control arms all replaced under warranty and it's still making chattering noises in the front suspension on broken rippled surfaces same as before ?? Front shocks were also replaced 6 months ago ...
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