my 2007 3.2 s80, 75 K miles, will not respond to accelerator for the first 1-2 miles after a cold start, then runs fine, no check engine light has shown. Per shop recommendation switched to 92 octane x3tanks, then replaced fuel sensor, neither solved.
View 15 RepliesSometimes I have to hold the accelerator the floor and it starts. Sometimes I get a faster than normal cranking speed and no start. When this occurs I can hold my foot to the floor and it will backfire through the intake. After some time of this the car will start.
Here's what I've done so far.
1. Checked timing and timing belt - OK
2. Ignition system check coil, wires, plugs - OK
3. Fuel system pump, injectors, and regulator - OK (Regina fuel system)
4. Checked and changed the relay and the cam sensor - OK
The other day I went to leave a car park and started moving but the car didn't respond to the accelerator - it was moving with no errors on the MFD but only at idle.
I'll get a VCDS scan tomorrow? Is there a known issue with the accelerator potential meter or wiring?
I've been trying to diagnose a problem i've been having. Every now and then after driving for about 30 miles, my car won't start for about five to ten minutes. I've had no problems while driving.
- The engine cranks, but doesn't turn over
- I can hear the fuel pump engage when i turn the ignition
- My crank sensor was replaced last summer, my SRS relay is good, as is my fuel injector relay
- Spark plugs and distributor cap are new
- It's a Regina fuel injection
I'm thinking RPM sensor at this point, but i'd hate to replace it if it's not the problem.
Noticed that when drive Sonata cold without having it warmed up and you hit the accelerator even a little bit that it 'jerks' back a bit? Once the car is warmed up you don't feel it anymore.
View 11 RepliesMy V6 3.0 TDI 2007 car is basically just driving fine, however occasionally i did noticed (when cold) a rare hiccup in accelerator response from standstill. Today i made a scan on VCDS, and found this engine fault, what could it be? The car is officially and recently maintained by VW dealer.
View 11 RepliesJust got into my 2006 Sonata V6 this morning. 120,000 miles. Drove last night, no problems. Started her up now this morning, noted check engine light and ESC lights on.
Pushed accelator pedal, no increase in RPMS at all. Put the car in gear (auto), car moves forward and backward, but pressing the pedal doesn't increase the rpms at all, so right now its not driveable. Luckily, its in the driveway so I know it could be worse. Took floor mat out, no interference issue there.
I changed the starter solenoid and that was over 45,000 miles ago. Never had that problem.
New 2015 Escape. Since I got this car in January I have had this problem where occasionally pressing on the accelerator does nothing for a few seconds and then accelerates like popping the clutch in a stick shift. i.e., I was stopped at a redlight with traffic in front of me. The light went green and the traffic was moving very slow. I depressed the accelerator to match the slow speeds. Traffic began to pick up speed and depressing my accelerator more was doing nothing. I gave it slightly more accelerator and nothing. Then my car jerks forward like I popped the clutch, (my car is auto).
The traffic in from of me then stopped and I had to slam on the brakes to avoid rear-ending the car in front of me. This occurs often but I cannot repeat the event. It happens occasionally and without warning. No faults showing.
I had it back to the dealer right after I bought it. I was told to allow time for the adaptive system to break in. At 2k miles I had it back in and was told, no faults, driving it showed nothing, it must be me. Now at 3500 miles, called Ford and was told to take it back to dealer. I have an appointment next week. This is more than a nuisance as I am very concerned pulling into a parking lot or in the example I wrote about could easily end in an accident with another vehicle or pedestrian, especially children.
My wife was driving our 2 young kids on the highway and the accelerator was making a loud clacking noise and then there was no response when pressing the accelerator. She managed to get to the shoulder. Mechanic says the engine is totally cooked (long block replacement). Only 32K miles and all scheduled maintenance done.
View 7 Replies2002 Ford F350 Powerstroke, 7.3L, Automatic, 4 wheel drive .... AFE Stage II Intake, 5" full exhaust, TS 6-position tuner chip, Swamps 140lb injectors
Intermittent accelerator problem: no response, just goes to idle. Runs perfectly with no other issues but zero response when the accelerator it pressed. There seems to be no pattern to the problem as this happens at any speed/position on the pedal. When the accelerator goes out the check engine light in the lower left corner comes on. All fuses are good.
Symptoms began a month or so ago feeling like an occasional 'hiccup' or hesitation. Symptoms occurred a few more times until a couple of weeks ago (Friday, 2/20/15) when it left my son stranded a few miles from home. He was able to limp it to a parking lot and we left it over night and went and towed it back to the house the next morning. The truck started and ran fine just no accelerator so we towed it idling so we would have power steering/brakes, etc. As we neared the house the engine light went out and the accelerator began working and he was able to drive the truck the remaining 1/2 mile home.
Most all of the research I did came back with the Throttle Position Sensor as the culprit. I was able to order one (the complete accelerator pedal assembly that is*) at a Napa store in a nearby town and picked it up on Tuesday (2/24). As soon as I installed it everything worked fine.
As an aside, I have read a lot about the mid-2001 switch from the units with the TPS (Throttle Position Sensor) and IVS (Idle Validation Switch) as separately connected units to the 'new' style where these parts are combined into one and there is a single 5-wire connector. Being a 2002 there was no question as to which one I had. Just be aware of the difference. Also, this part is simple to change. The connector has a clip that you pinch down on with your thumb and then pull off. I use my little electric impact with 1/4" extension and a 10mm socket. Zip, zip, zip an you're done. It takes me longer to get my tools out.
A few days later on Friday (2/27) it presented the sporadic accelerator symptom a couple of times again but was able to get the truck home. The next morning I unplugged, cleaned (CRC Contact Cleaner), and dabbed into the connector a small amount of dielectric grease to insure good connection. (I had read that in my research as well). That seemed to work beautifully and he said it ran fine all day and until the next afternoon (Sunday, 3/1) when it began acting up yet again.
I continued to research and could find nothing that would suggest anything other than the Throttle Position Sensor. I read that some other folks had gone through a few of the Napa/aftermarket units though so I began thinking that maybe I had just gotten a bad unit.
I have a 2005 F250 5.4L 2wd. Parked the vehicle in my driveway and the next morning there was no response from the accelerator and the CEL light and the wrench light on. I pulled the codes and came up with codes P2104, P2107 and P2110. The KOEO code was P2122. I checked the wiring and connectors and all appear to be fine I replaced the throttle body and no change. I removed the accelerator pedal and tried it on another vehicle and it worked fine. I have power to pin 16 on the diagnostic port. After clearing the codes and rescanning the same codes come up immediately.
View 14 Repliesi have a 04 ford excursion 6.0 with the egr delete, was stopped at a light to make a left turn, when i stepped on the accelerator pedal nothing happened as the engine was just idling. i pumped the pedal around 10 times and finally got the engine to rev up. i just got this excursion and don't know to much about the maintenance on it. i am going to drain the water and change the two fuel filters. my neighbor is familiar with diesel engines and he said to look at the throttle sensor. i have run this engine up to 900 miles and it has started and run perfectly. i believe the usual maintenance like oil changes etc were done on it. would any error codes show up even though no warning lights on the dash.
View 8 RepliesI own a 2000 F250 7.3 Powerstroke 4x4. The only aftermarket engine modification I have is a Tymar intake. The problem I'm having started about 6 months ago in a very erratic fashion. I would pull up to a traffic signal and as the light changed to green, without warning the truck would have no throttle response. The engine was running fine; there was just no response as I stepped on the accelerator pedal. Usually when I put the transmission in neutral, revved the engine a few times, the throttle would come back on line. This happened 4 or 5 times over the summer and then went away completely until today. Today it came back with a vengeance. At one point I had to shut the engine down completely to restore throttle response. It's a bit unnerving when it happens in the middle of a busy intersection. I was told that it may be the throttle position sensor. Does this sound correct and does it need to be replaced?
View 14 RepliesAfter driving a while, shut down the engine, return to start a half-hour later, no response when key turned. Wait a while, everything's fine. We've chased all the under hood wiring connectors, all are clean and tight. Replaced the ignition switch. Have not yet been able to get it to fail when it's in the mechanic's shop. Problem worse in warmer weather, but it has misbehaved in mid-December, too.
View 1 RepliesXc 90 D5 2.4 2005 diesel, will not start when it's cold (below +5 degrees), If I use the pre heater for 3 min it starts fine.
I have checked the injectors (leak back test). I checked the glow plugs and they all glow red when I turn on the ignition.
No error codes (Volvo has checked)
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My mechanic installed a battery about a year and I have to get my battery charged each time the weather gets cold or snowy. I have had the battery charged 2 times this month.I have had this same problem last year calling motor clubs to charge my battery. My car is snowed in and shovel is stuck in my trunk because it will not open because my car wont start. I do not even know if there is a warrantee on the battery ...it may be a used battery.
View 7 RepliesThis 1996 (220KM) car will run fine (perfect)for about ten minutes from cold (I'm talking -5 C)then starts to misfire when warmed up. Difficult to pull away (automatic) from a stop. Sound like its missing on two cylinders. Really chunters.
Installed new plugs, wires, cap, rotor, coil,filter. Don't know what to check next. Car will work at speed but I can feel it missing. Gun it and it will go. Doesn't appear to be a fuel problem.
We have a 2009 S60 2.5T that has trouble starting in temps around 25 degrees and below. It skips/hesitates when cranking.
View 7 RepliesI recently had my timing belt | water pump changed as preventative maintenance. I have 126K on the clock. Two days after having it done, the "low coolant - stop safely" light comes on for about two minutes during cold start. I checked the reservoir during the cold start and no coolant disappears. So, it seems to me that coolant is at level. What gives?
One more thing, just had my door replaced as well and the SRS service light tripped and the body shop didn't have a scanner to clear the fault. Is that common? 2005 Xc90 2.5t...
I have been looking for a solution to a noise my 07 S60R GT has been making for about two months now. After a cold start there is a chriping/whistling noise that lasts a few minutes at idle. The noise will go away at idle but is constant under heavy load in any gear. The Volvo dealer told me it was the SNABB intake but the noise started well after I installed this with no noise initially. They said its not from sepentine belt or pulleys. It sounds as though its coming from the turbo area. Car still drives/pulls fine but makes shrieking / chirping / whistle when I get on it ( which is most of the time).
View 1 RepliesA minor but persistent (year-long) rough idle on my 1991 240 has quickly turned into a Cold Start Nightmare over the past month:
SITTING HOURS OVERNIGHT (50 to 60-degree temp. overnight) - When I attempt to start in the morning, the engine idles high for 3-5 seconds and then immediately dies. To successfully start, I must keep pressing the accelerator pedal at least half-way down for 2-3 minutes. The engine sputters, almost backfires, shakes, lopes, almost dies, etc. After 2-3 minutes, everything runs just fine.
WARM ENGINE SITTING - Once the engine is warmed up, it will consistently start without problems. Still a slightly rough idle, but OK. The car does not die.
I have changed the battery, coolant temp. sensor, and spark plug wires.