Volvo - S80 :: 2001 - Stuck In Reverse
Feb 4, 2012
My 2001 S80 Volvo (91,000 miles) has a problem--when I put it in reverse, apply the gas, the car will not move. Sometimes if I shift back to park and then back to reverse, the car moves, but with a clunking sound and it feels as if the car just went over a small rock. At other times it will not move at all. I had a new transmission put in November and a week ago the car would not move out of my garage. A day later when I tried to reverse out of the garage, it did so without any noise or hesitation. The repair shop kept it again for 4 days, ran another bunch of tests and could find nothing. The car drives just fine on the road--still has great acceleration. The problem is driving me nuts--I am afraid to take it out at times as I don't know when it might not reverse. what is wrong with this car?
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Problem 1 started in winter of 2010 and happens randomly : can't shift the car from Park, I have to try several times, this occurs more during winter but now I'm having the same issue in summer even with temperatures above 78 degrees F. I took the car to the dealer in 2010 but nothing was wrong they said.Problem 2, my wife threw the original key in the dumpster by mistake ( with the remote keyless), I have had a key made buy the dealer, this key opens the doors and starts the car but each time I look the doors, the front passenger door unlocks itself. Now I'm having this message ALARM SYSTEM SERVICE REQUIRED. The alarm is no longer triggered.
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My 01 GTi (12v VR6) was having some trouble shifting into, and out of, first and reverse so after a bit of research I decided to try adjusting the shift linkage as it seemed like a possible easy fix. After doing that I tried backing it up in the driveway and after a couple of shifts to different gears it ended up getting stuck in reverse. When I pushed in the clutch pedal to let it roll forward I noted that it seemed to be resisting rolling forward despite the steep incline. Once it reached a less steep incline it stopped rolling forward completely, so I'm thinking that it probably won't come out of gear because the clutch won't disengage all the way.
I've done some searching around and from what I've read so far it sounds like it could be a worn or damaged clutch fork, the hydraulic lines, master or slave cylinder, or even a broken clutch plate. What I don't want to do is pull the transmission and clutch, only to find that it was something much easier to fix.
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What can I do about my car it's not shifting, it's stuck in high gear and when I go from park to reverse it makes a loud thump. The check engine light came on and the codes are transmission control module it's a 2006 and only has 30,000 miles on it. It's hard to believe it's the brain so we changed the fluid and cleaned the sylinoids but then when I drove it around the block I put it in reverse it didn't make the loud noise and it shifted fine for a minute before I got around the block and almost home it made a loud banging noise and went back to not shifting again. What the problem could be.
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if the fan doesn't work, could this make the AC compressor clutch not engage? I think the fan is burned out because it doesn't spin at all, and only moves with a lot of effort. If the fan circuit is open, will this cause the Compressor to not work as well? the car is a 1991 740 GL. 2.3L engine, non turbo.
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On my 1991 945, the electric sunroof won't move at all (stuck closed). The motor visibly twitches clockwise and counter-clockwise in response to the control switch but then stops (or is stopped by the jammed sunroof). All the instructions I've read for working on the sunroof begin by saying "open the sunroof to the vent position" but how do I do that? Presumably there's some manual way, but I don't know what it is.
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Having my beloved v70 XC SE towed to mechanic today. Suddenly reverse gear was non functioning. No choice. Assume it's time for gear box replacement (whatever that is). Only 133K miles on the vehicle and I LOVE this car. Is it worth the cost to fix transmission or should I just donate or try to sell the vehicle?
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My radiator fan recently started coming on while in reverse. The weird thing is when it's in park it sounds like the fan is trying to come on but never does. It sounds like the fan just keeps getting turned on and off very very rapidly. When I put it in reverse it just turns on, in neutral and drive it's off. This only happens when I've been driving for at least a few mins.
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The temperature gauge in my 2006 S60 2.5 T suddenly stopped working and I noticed that the cooling fan was stuck on relatively cool Michigan weather. In addition I also noticed a 2-3 mpg reduction in average fuel economy and a reduction in overall power. I did a little research and found that the 2006 2.5T models had an ECT recall. Turns out the ECM was telling the engine to operate at overheating conditions,due to a faulty ECT.
Picked up a new Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor (OEM is recommended by most authorities for replacement sensors). I replaced the ECT without even removing the engine cover, it didn't fix the problem at first. Then I pulled the fuse for the ECM, a 5 amp fuse in the box mounted on the drives side fender, and let the ECM reset for a few minutes. Then, had the temp gauge back, and had peak engine performance at operating temperature.
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last night I was on my way to work and had the car in forth traveling about forty-five. A light ahead of me turned red and I held the clutch in until I had stopped. I shifted into what I thought was first. I discovered that regardless of the shifter position, the transmission left it in forth gear. Barely got it moving from a stop and brought it back home.
Looking under the car, I don't know exactly what the linkage mechanism looks like. I'm not sure how to tell if it has been disconnected or misaligned. I don't know if the problem is in the transmission itself either. The shifter moves to other positions freely, but in actuality it stays locked in forth gear.
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I have just inherited a 1987 740 GL from my father and whilst I was playing around with the switches etc I discovered that the vent control lever is stuck on the windscreen demister?
Is this a quick fix ? If I do need to is there a service manual available that I can easily get?
[URL]................
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I have my 1995 Volvo 940 Turbo that stalls in reverse and hesitates on take off. The following is a breakdown of what has been done so far:
1. Initial Issue from March to October is hard starts; it would take 15 minutes or more to start car; it would be longer sometimes in cold weather.
2. Car would have erratic idle after startup; car reaches operating temperature before movement; car would bog down in idle and die only in reverse; initial acceleration from takeoff is slow;
car runs fine once out of first gear from takeoff; car bogs down on braking with idle lowering; sometimes car stalls at braking; gas is sometimes tapped slightly to stop stalling.
3. Issue of hard start would be intermittent; it would be less prominent in hot weather and more prominent in cold weather.
4. Sometimes in rain or wet weather, car would stall and sometimes backfire; Distributor Cap is normally changed.
5. By October, a no-start condition occurs.
6. Car starts now, idle is not erratic; car would bog down in idle and die only in reverse; you barely tap gas to keep from dying in reverse; initial acceleration from takeoff is slow; car
putts a little; car runs fine once out of first gear from takeoff; exhaust flows strongly; takeoff slightly improves incrementally with continued operation; car bogs down on braking with idle
lowering; sometimes car stalls at braking; gas is sometimes tapped slightly to stop stalling.
7. During idle or operation, sometimes coolant will boil in reservoir; toggle fan brings temp down to normal in between fan cycles; toggle fan keeps coolant temp normal in really hot weather.
The following parts have been changed and are still prominently new:
-Ignition Coil
-Spark Plug Wires
-Spark Plugs
-Distributor Cap (Initially Sealed With Sealant, Condensation Issue When Raining Causes Stalling)
-Rotor Button
-Condensation Cap For Distributor Cap (No Need For Sealant Now)
-K&N Air Filter
-Turbo Intake Hose (Original Had Disentegration In Spots)
-Exhaust Manifold Gasket (With New Locking Nuts and Sealant On Manifold Side, Not Block Side)
-Power Stage (Ignition Module or Ignition Stage Amplifier)
-Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor
-Gauge Temperature Sensor
-Knock Sensor
-All Vacuum Hoses
-All Coolant Hoses (Including Oil Cooler Hoses)
-Fuel Pressure Regulator
-Oxygen Sensor
-Catalytic Converter (Honeycomb In Original Rattles, Discovered Gone When Removed)
-Exhaust Resonator/Central Muffler (Original Damaged By Honeycomb, Sounded Like Broken Glass, Baffles More Than Likely Clogged)
-Idle Air Control Valve
-Starter Solenoid (Starter Tested Good)
-Power Brake Booster (Original Replaced, Failed 2 Out Of Three Brake Pedal/Vacuum Tests)
-Battery
-Radio Suppression Relay
-Throttle Position Sensor
-Fuel Filter
-Timing Belt and Tensioner
-Crankshaft Position Sensor (Last In Chain, Resolved No-Start For Now)
The following are checkpoints, mods, and maintenance:
1. Modded Airbox for more airflow, no codes present from OBD before or after
2. Cleaned MAF Sensor with MAF Sensor Cleaner, no codes present from OBD before or after
3. Checked EGR Valve - Diaphram not broken, free movement, appears functioning
4. Had EGR Pipe Rewelded - Pipe broke from connection to throttle body, completely sealed and functional, Minimal Carbon Removed
5. No codes from EGR temp sensor before or after
6. Checked EGR Vacuum Controller through OBD - appears functional
7. Checked Fuel Pump - Repaired frayed hot wire, sealed, pump fully functioning
8. Checked Fuel Pump Relay - Functioning
9. Properly adjusted Idle Air Speed - Steady Between 700-800 RPM
10. Checked EGR Pipe to Exhaust Manifold - Minimal Carbon Removed
11. Cleaned Throttle Body with Throttle Body Cleaner - No Soot/Carbon exiting system
12. Created Toggle with Fuse in between connection, connected to slot in fuse box, cuts off with car, slight battery drain issue before and after installation
13. Checked oil in case - oil change still new, no milky appearance suggested head issues
14. Removed and cleaned breather box - no oil deposits clogging operation
15. Checked charcoal canister - stalling in reverse happens with and without it connected
16. Checked muffler during disassembly of exhaust system - no honeycomb/debris present during testing
17. Car is at Top Dead Center - Timing
18. Fuel Injectors tested fine with OBD and Pressure present at rail
The following parts have not been changed yet:
-Charcoal Box
-MAF Sensor (No Codes)
-EGR (No Codes)
-EGR Vac Controller (No Codes)
-Compressor (No A/C, issue with stalling is unrelated)
-Power Steering Pump (Slight squeaking on rotation, PB Blaster in bearing area confirms, issue with stalling unrelated)
Other Issues : Slight battery drain coming from somewhere in the car, have to remove negative from battery for now
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Volvo Automatic 1992 240 - So, just started to back out of the garage and, all of a sudden, my gear shift got stuck in neutral and then started shifting without engaging the transmission at all. Pushed it back into the space and, taking a look underneath, I realize the control rod's completely detached from the lever in the transmission.
I can re-attach it, but it just comes loose again when I shift. It seems like something should be in there to hold the control rod in place with the transmission lever, but I don't know what because I can't seem to find any documentation on what everything should look like down there.
Attaching a couple shots, one with a circle around the area that's coming un-attached since the angle's a bit off.
Attached File(s)
IMG_8972.jpg ( 1.09MB )
IMG_8978.jpg ( 938.64K )
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This is a 1991 Volvo 240 Automatic Station Wagon. The Check Engine Light has been on for at least 6 months, the timing belt was replaced 3 months ago , the battery is a month old, the oil was just changed, gas tank just filled and the odometer stopped at 259,000 miles before I bought it so it has well over 300,000. Yesterday morning it took a minute to start, which happens on occasion, but backed out and drove about a mile and stalled at a stop light. It finally started, after 6 false starts, and I turned around to go back home. It then stalled again but reversed just fine, so I got it turned around and drove in reverse the rest of the way home. It drove fine after a few hours but did the same thing today.
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2001 V70 Volvo Wagon 114k miles... The following in order has been done so far in the last 3 months mostly because the mechanic who did everything besides the mounts takes forever.
Rotors & pads
Replaced axle shaft
Oil & new air filter
Replaced steering wheel pump #1 - with new liquids
Replaced steering wheel pump #1 with #2
Replaced steering wheel pump #2 with #3
Supposedly checked the rack & pinion
New hoses for the steering wheel pump
Alternator replaced
All front, right and rear engine mounts have been replaced
I am about to literally come out of my skin with the subtle vibration that comes through the steering wheel, seat and floor on the drivers side. When I put my hand on the shifter I don't feel the vibration nor when riding on the passengers side. I have to stay that the car sounds like an old Singer sewing machine too, not the smooth engine sound that I had before all the repair work. There is also a very slight lag when starting off and a grown that comes from under the dash to the right of the steering wheel when in reverse and turning. My regular volvo mechanic says that the car is worn but I should keep it anyway.
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When I put my car (04 s60 2.5t) in reverse it hesitate, then when I press the pedal it roll back with a loud clunk noise. But if I put the car in drive before putting it in reverse everything goes smoothly.
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The Golf seems to be ''stuck'' in reverse. (Long story short, my gf backed up the Golf into the driveway and she wanted to re allign herself, she put it back in reverse and once done, shut the engine. Now, the Golf is 'stuck' in reverse' ....
When I try to turn the key on 'on' while applying the brakes, I tried to put in Park or Neutral, the stick won't budge one bit! I don't want to force it either.
What may have caused this and what can I do to get it 'out of reverse'?
Car: 2012 VW Golf 2.5, Automatic Transmission.
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My wife was driving the v this morning. While she was backing up in reverse from a parking space slowly , she felt that the brake pedal is stuck (very firm) while controlling the speed. The car then stops. She then switched to D to roll foward a bit and the brake was back to normal. Reverse again and it was fine too.
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I parked the car yesterday and everything was working fine. I go out this morning to go to work and i cannot get the car to go into reverse. I put it in neutral and attempted to push it out of my parking spot, but when I took my foot off the clutch, it stalled like it was still in gear even though the stick was in the neutral position. While still in the neutral position, i can still move forward as if it were in first. When i put it in reverse and attempt to move, i get no movement. I can get it to move forward, but it refuses to go into reverse. I have no diagnostic lights illuminated and the car has no issues running or starting.
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I have recently been having problems with my 2013 Prius v (lowercase v for the Prius v wagon). When I press power, all the dashboard lights turn on. And when I try to shift the car into reverse or drive the car stays on neutral. What is going on?
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I have a 2006 Hyundai Sonata, 2.4, 4-cyl automatic. While pulling into a parking space, the driver in the vehicle next to me threw her door open. I braked quickly (but did not slam on the brakes) to avoid hitting the door then continued into the space after she closed her door. I then tried to put my car in reverse to re-position it in the parking slot. The shifter on the console would not go into REVERSE and obviously not into PARK since PARK on the shifter is above REVERSE. The shifter will go into both DRIVE and NEUTRAL. I now have a car that will go only forward. Also, I cannot remove the key from the ignition switch since the shifter will not go into PARK. I've not had a problem like this with this or any car before.
I also noticed that my ABS/ESC has been coming on more frequently and staying on and I attributed that to a bad sensor since my brakes are in good shape and I have not had to rely on the ABS system. I don't believe that the ABS/ESC warning light and the shifter problem are connected but I'm not totally sure. Why my shifter won't go into REVERSE or PARK????
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