Volvo - S70 :: 2000 - No Oil Pressure Going To Engine
Jan 3, 2012
The volvo dealer states they do not know why there is no oil pressure going to engine. First they stated needed reset valve then new oil pump but neither was the issue. Now they state "internal problem within engine". So either have to take engine completely apart to diagnose or replace entire engine. The car has been maintained religiously and is in mint condition. Love my car but not sure what to do next. Thought of towing to independent mechanic for second opinion?
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Last weekend I decided my brothers 850 T5 was well over due an Engine oil and AFT change (two years for oil and never for the atf). The car has done 182,000 and drives great. Any way I bought 20 litres of 15w-40 and 20 litres of DEX 3 atf as it worked out a lot cheaper and it can be used for my fathers 940.
Anyway on Saturday I got the engine warm and noticed the oil pressure light flicker on and off. it had never done that before so I should have checked the dipstick there and then but I just went ahead and drained the old oil and removed the filter. To my surprise only about two litres of black oil came out despite the fact my brother swears he checked it 2 weeks before and it was fine. I thought this was odd as the engine had been running perfect and at that level I would expect serious damage to have been done. I fitted the new filter and sump plug with washer, filled a 5 litre tub from the bigger 20L tub and poured in 4L. I checked the dip stick and it took the remaining litre to get the level correct. I checked it again and then started the engine to get the oil into the filter etc and the level was still perfect. I finished the atf change(that's another story) and thought it a job well done.
The next evening my brother was about to use the car and I said I would check the level one more time now it was cold. There was nothing on the dipstick. There was no oil under the car so I slowly topped it up but nothing showed on the stick. I knew there was at least 5 litres in there so I didn't want to over fill it but when I started it, it sounded tappety. I put another couple of litres in and the noise reduced but still nothing on the stick. he then drove the car for a short journey and it drove fine but I said it was still tappety. I checked the oil again and now the handle snaps off the dipstick.
I have done oil changes many times before and am really very competent mechanically (I'm an engineer). Any way this gets me doubting the dipsticks accuracy so I suggest he let our neighbour who's a mechanic take a look the next day and basically today he came back and said he drained the oil and there was only 2.5 litres of oil in the engine. He topped it up and it's running fine and I fixed the dipstick with glue to check and it's perfect there as well. The thing is I know that I put enough in there, and my 20 litre tub has only 10 left.
The car is fine now. I know the obvious ones are that it was my mistake and I didn't put enough oil in, or I don't know the difference between a 1 litre and 5 litre tub but I assure you that this wasn't the case. Is there any where internal this quantity of engine oil can leak to? the transmission? coolant?
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03 xc90 with 83k miles.
Its got the "no oil pressure stop engine safely" light coming on when it gets up to running temps.
I am having my mechanic drop the pan, clean for sludge and replace all the seals and O-rings.
Which O-rings need to be replaced. I read somewhere there are 5, I bought the set along with the volvo sealant but need to give exact instruction to my mechanic on which seals to replace (he is not a volvo guy) and I dont remember which ones.
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I am a new Volvo XC90 owner/fan. The issue is my lovely 2006 XC90 2.5T started to show the bizarre 'No Oil Pressure. Stop Engine.' dash board message red color.
First things I checked right after seeing that message.
Engine oil level - FINE (actually full).
Engine oil - CLEAN and recently replaced.
I drove 100 miles and the weather was peaceful 40f degrees (5c). The sign would come and off intermittently and stayed there for some time. We were luckily at the destination so we stopped the car and did our biz.
After a couple of hours we started the engine, drove a car, came back home driving 100 miles back without an issue.
But after a day, actually today, I saw the same message again. It was intermittently again and then would stay. If I restart the engine the message would go away but then would come back after sometime of driving.
So I called a couple of normal non-Volvo repair shops and they didn't know what the issue is and didn't even know why I would check the engine pressure. So OK pass.
I called Volvo dealer and he said if it is a 'low engine oil' message you can just top it up but if it is a 'engine pressure' message then the issue can be huge so he advised to tow the car in.
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I had a Check Engine Light a couple months ago, and I took the car to the garage to have it checked out. They told me they got a Fuel Pressure Sensor malfunction code, and that the sensor had to be replaced. I did so myself, an it is ridiculously easy, and the car worked fine. I noticed the Check Engine Light blinked a couple of times while I was driving, but never got steady. A couple of days ago, it did. Out of a bad gut-feeling, I purchased a ODBII scanner, and I scanned the car myself. I got the same error code as the garage did, but the sensor should be fine.
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2000 Volvo S70, 177K - This car is new to me, and shortly after purchasing it, I began having difficulty removing the ignition key when arriving at a destination. With the transmission in Park, and the engine shut off, the key just won't come out. Then again, sometimes there's no problem at all. Oddly, the problem seems to correlate with the cabin/engine temp. If I allow the car to cool off, then go back to it in a half hour, the key will usually come right out. Same thing with short trips. I'm fortunate so far that I've not been in any high crime areas where leaving the key would be risky; but I will need to solve this eventually.
I understand that there's a safety switch/sensor that ensures the vehicle is in Park before the key can be removed, and I've tried being a bit more "forceful" in shifting to P, but that doesn't seem to work. I'll be taking this to my mechanic anyway for a state safety inspection followup; are there any hints I can give him if I can't figure it out myself?
Is the temperature factor suggestive that the problem is in the transmission sensor? I'd prefer that the issue be a sensor or adjustment rather than in the ignition switch just to avoid the re-keying mess.
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The Check Engine Light is on. Diagnostic Codes: P0722, P1618, and P1633. Do these mean the output speed sensor/connector wires should be replaced? Is this a DIY job?
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Vehicle: 2000 Chevy Express 3500 passenger van 5.7L
History: Low fuel pressure when starting. If the van sat longer than 24 hours it wouldn't start without a squirt of starting fluid. I suspected it was the fuel pump but didn't get around to changing it. My wife put in "extra" starting fluid one afternoon and tried to start the van - there was a small explosion which blew up the air cleaner housing and started a fire. She put the fire out with an extinguisher. The fire was restricted to the air cleaner media and housing and burned for about 45 seconds.
Repairs: I cleaned up the extinguisher material and replaced filter housing and media. I checked the fuel pressure at the fuel rail - pressure gauge read zero. I checked the relay and all of the fuses - everything was in good shape. I looked for a fuel cutoff switch but the Chevy tech I talked to said there isn't one on that year of van - he recommended that I disconnect the battery for 5 minutes to reset the system. I did that too. Still no fuel pressure. Replaced the fuel pump and fuel filter. Still no fuel pressure.
Current Status: The engine will crank and if I put starting fluid in the van will turn over and run as long as there is starting fluid. When the accelerant is gone the engine stops running. Again, it will crank but there is no fuel pressure at the rail. The manual says the pressure should be 85 lbs with the key on and engine off and then 45 - 55 lbs running.
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My 2000 B5 1.8t began getting the Low Oil Pressure warning light over the winter, and has gotten progressively worse. I added a mechanical oil pressure gauge and I'm seeing about 20 psi on a cold engine at idle. If I rev to ~2500 the pressure DROPS to between 5 and 10 (and triggers the STOP! light).
I tried a bottle of autoRX, but probably too late- I could only run about 200 miles before the STOP! light wouldn't allow me to get out of the driveway.
What might cause the pressure to DROP as engine speed increases? a Clogged screen or worn pump possibly? It would be nice if it was something I could correct without pulling the engine (but I'm not expecting that).
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Today I started my 2000 Suburban on the coldest morning ever, -14 degrees actual temp. I went inside to let it warm up and about 15 min later I went out to go to work and the check oil pressure light was on and oil pressure read 0. Is this due to extreme cold and thick oil ? Or did something break on start up. I am going to wait until temps are up before I try it again as it was running awful. I am fearing that 15 min warm up may have hurt her.
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We have a 2.4 t. S60 lately my wife says the low oil pressure message comes on, occasionally. Checked the oil level, it's good. Cars maintain e has been done regularly since new. One friend says the oil pan gasket has been known to loose it seal. He thinks I should change the gasket. The car sounds good and has this occasional problem for about a week.
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I've had this car for a little over a month, when I first bought the car it ran fine, until I drove it home. It stalled out and would not start up again, turned out I had low fuel pressure so I replaced the fuel pump. After this the car had been running fine up until a few days ago. It was stalling out and starting right up, now I am lucky if it will start up. I am still getting fuel pressure to the fuel rail. Would it be my injectors?
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Recently I overhauled the engine put new rod bearing and had it bored and honed. As well as new pistons. when i first started it, it ran fairly good except for the tappets making noise but i thought this was normal. after 40 miles the tappets were still making noise and the oil light began flickering. I replaced the oil pan o rings with no luck. i also took the pump apart to check that and still nothing. I have a feeling a main bearing might have been put in the wrong spot. What should i do next to confirm this? what should i do from this point on?
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Just changed the fuel pressure regulator on 1993 volvo 850 (non turbo), now the idle goes up and down then stalls.
Also changed IAC, but with a used one from a previously working car.
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I have a 2006 S60 2.5T with 40k miles. My check engine light went on and stayed on for two drives. Then turned off and hasn't returned for next couple of drives. Error code says fuel pressure regulator. Should I bother to bring it to a mechanic or since the light went off (didn't burn out -- it momentarily turns on when I start the car) should I assume all is well?
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My '90 240 will not start. When I turn the key to Acc. or Start I hear a whirring sound coming from the fuel pressure regulator so I assume the fuel pump is not an issue. The engine will not even crank. I assume it is the ignition coil or the starter but I am unsure. As an FYI, the battery and plugs are good.
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2000 Volvo v70... When accelerating (particularly at high speed) the air conditioner stops cooling. Until the car is turned off the AC does not cool. Dealer checked out the AC and found no problems.
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I have a 2000 volvo S40 19T, it starts up, and will run just fine if you give it any amount of gas, but it just wont idle. I unplugged the MAF sensor and it ran the same. I then took the IAC valve off and put a towel over the port (To let some gas in but not completely shut it off) It runs GREAT like that! I kept the IAC plugged in and the towel over the port, started her up and put a lot of pressure on the towel to cut of all air, the car idle went really really low and then it shut off. Now since the car knows it is stalling, and it needs more air I should be able to see the IAC opening and closing (Remember it is plugged in, but in my hand), it didn't move at all!
I have run the car with my towel over the IAC ports and chased all around the intake manifold and other intake duct work with carb cleaner to try and fine vacuum leaks to no avail. I even did the towel trick with a multimeter hooked up to the wires that plug into the IAC valve, it is getting a small amount of voltage, say 2 to 3 volts, but the new valve still won't open, and I have yet to confirm that the current changes with idle fluctuations when I press on the towel.
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I got into my 2000 V70 Turbo and noticed that someone had cracked the gear shift box. I didn't know what to think so I checked to see if they messed with the gear shift (automatic transmission) and thus were trying to steal the car by moving the gear shift into neutral and pushing my baby away. Nope. Gear shift looked ok. I put my key in and the car was totally dead. I popped the hood, looked about, then looked at my main fuse box. Someone pulled my air pump relay fuse. Oh boy! I went back to the gear shift to see if they messed with my emergency brake. I can't tell. So, I called the police and filed a police report. Here's my question: By pulling the Air pump relay--is someone trying to kill my ABS brakes and then when I'm cruising down the highway I have no ABS and my emergency brake is gone? Very scary thought here. Is my thinking clear, or is there another reason to remove the air pump relay and break into my gear shift box?
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My daughter called and told me that her brakes are not coming back up after she has stopped. She had to take her hand and pull the brake pedal up. She has a 2000 Volvo S-40. What is the matter?
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For the past week the front passenger side floor of my 2000 Volvo S80 has been wet. Sometimes its sopping and other times it's just damp. I assume the water is coming from inside the car as the mat has a heavy rubber bottom, but I can't seem to find the source.
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