Volvo - S70 :: 2000 - After Start Up Rpm Don't Stay Constant And Stalls Intermittently
Nov 18, 2013
We just brought a 2000 S70 Volvo 5 cyl. sadan. There is a problem when we start it up. Initially it starts up fine, but when you put it into drive, the rpms do not stay constant enough to keep the engine from stalling out. When you restart it, the problem repeats and repeats about five or six times, until the problem corrects itself. If in an effort to increase the rmps by applying the gas pedal, the problem may cease, but not always. Once the rpms remain constant, there are no longer any problems with the engine.
This problem is not a constant. It mostly happens when the engine is cold, but it can also happen when the car has been running and then turned off. When you turn on the warmed up engine, the problem happens again. Because we anticipate the repairs on a Volvo are likely to be expensive, we would like to have an idea of what could cause this problem and an anticipated cost.
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My 1999 Volvo V70 is having intermittent issues starting/stalling out. Sometimes it will start right up and go, other times, it will start and the rpms will fluctuate then it stalls/shuts off or will go in gear but fluctuate rpms erratically it will do this multiple times after 3 or more restarts it will run fine until it is turned off then the same thing all over again.
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My 2000 Volvo S70 just started stalling while driving: it completely dies while in motion. This has happened 4 times in the past week, both times (oddly) in the morning on my way home from the gym. Both times, it's happened we have had very damp weather, and it's the second start-up of the morning. It has happened at slow speeds, and it feels as though it is out of gas, but it is not.
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It has been stalling intermittently for 3-4 weeks, though for a while would not do it when with the mechanic. Also, the check engine light would never come on, so there were no codes to check into. Sometimes after it would stall, it would not start up again until the engine was cold. Recently, it stalled when the mechanic was test driving it. He pulled off the mass air sensor and it started right up. He replaced that part and the car was driving OK for several days. I even took it on a couple 2.5 hour round trips. Today, however, I could not get it started. It would turn over, but not fire and it seems to me that it wasn't getting enough fuel.
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When the weather gets cold, (lower than 45 deg. F) my Jetta does not want to stay running. It turns over and starts just fine but it does not like to stay on. When I turn the key to the #2 position I can hear the fuel pump fire up and pressurize the system. I always attempt to start it after that, and after 1-2 seconds of running, it seems like it chokes itself out. I have the new coolant temp. sensor (green top), my MAF has been replaced, all spark plugs are new with the correct gap (approx. .030"), new air filter, I run 93 octane fuel.
The worst part is, once the car is warmed up (After forcing it fuel and starting it over, and over, and over again) it runs awesome! I have had this problem since I bought the car (about 2 years ago). The owner told me about it and mentioned that he has never been able to figure it out either (trips to the dealer included). I have been dealing with it for 2 years, but it is getting much worse. Over the past 2 days I have not been able to get my car to stay on long enough to get it to move.
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I'm struggling with an intermittent (of course) issue where, esp. if cold, I can't start my car unless I give it lots of gas. If I take my foot off the gas at all, it will stall, which means I drive this automatic two-footed (one foot on brake, one on gas) , giving it lots of gas at all times, including when stopped. After about 10 minutes it is fine, and is then good for the rest of the day. My trusted Volvo-spscific repair shop has tried replacing booster pressure sensor, fuel pressure regulator (both indicated by engine codes) and new plugs. The end result is I've got $500 into the car that does seem to run better when it starts, but the original issue is unsolved. I was thinking something is sticking with a cold start, or idle speed is incorrect, but can't figure it out. Seems like it should be an easy fix.
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I have a 2000 Subaru outback (150,000 miles). Recently after starting, the car will feel sluggish or like it's pulling. When I come to a complete stop it will shake and feel like it's about to shut off... and recently it has been shutting off. Last night I changed the spark plugs, spark plug wires, and fuel filter... after that the car was driving worse. My check engine light is on and the code is for a knock sensor. Also there was oil on my spark plugs which I believe is an idication that there is a broken or leaky gasket. I am at a loss... would the leaky or broken gasket cause car the run sluggish and stall, would a faulty knock sensor cause the the same? I also need to get my rotors changed but I don't think that would cause any of this.
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My beloved 2000 Toyota Echo has started to stall intermittently. It has worked with no problems for the past 100k miles that I've owned it (purchased used with 40k already.) What happens is that while driving I hear a little click, everything shuts down for a second or so, the red idiot light lights up for a few seconds then clears. It's never lasted more than a few seconds and everything goes right back to normal. And it's only happened maybe a dozen times in the last three months. But it makes me nervous since I have to travel over major bridges and through tunnels regularly where I live.
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I've had this car for a little over a month, when I first bought the car it ran fine, until I drove it home. It stalled out and would not start up again, turned out I had low fuel pressure so I replaced the fuel pump. After this the car had been running fine up until a few days ago. It was stalling out and starting right up, now I am lucky if it will start up. I am still getting fuel pressure to the fuel rail. Would it be my injectors?
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My 1996 Volvo 850 with 254K miles has what seems like random starting troubles. Some days it starts without any problems. Other days I am unable to get it started. The battery is fine. I had to tow it to my mechanic one night and he started the car the next morning without any problems! But it has become unreliable.
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Increasingly, my s70 won't start. Turn key and nothing When this first occurred this spring I had it towed to my mechanic. He found that a starter cable was starting to detach. He re attached and started all summer with a few exceptions. Now this fall it is not starting every couple of days. Turn key and nothing. Have if towed to the mechanic and it starts fine. So should I have the starter replaced?
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Motor has been stalling intermittently since May. Finally had the fuel pump replaced last Friday (8/17/12). have been driving the car back and forth to work since then with no problems until yesterday. Made a run to the local convenience store and the car was shut down for about ten minutes. Came back out and car would not start! Gave it about 10 minutes and then it started again. Got it into the garage and let it run for awhile and it stalled out. Got the check engine light (a first for that) so swapped the fuel pump relay with one of the same part number. Fired right up and did not stall out.
Also, check engine light went out on its own. Swapped relays back to original positions, motor started right up, stayed running and check engine light went out on its own. What could be causing my problem? Since check engine light came on then went out on its own, would there be any trouble codes to read? One other thing, original relay has pinkish residue on the pins. What could that be about? First time poster so I hope what I have typed out makes sense. 2003 Accent 4 door with 1.6L DOHC motor. Approx 79000 miles.
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I purchased a 92 Lumina Euro with a 3.1 and 101,400 miles on it a little over two weeks ago. It has been having problems since I got it.
It stalls intermittently, typically after I drive to work, shut it off for two hours, and then start it to go to my next client(home health aid) sometimes it stalls right after starting it then, and/or sometimes when put in reverse and/or drive and occasionally at stops signs after the aforementioned problems occur. It has also stalled out twice after highway driving after the car is shut off and started shortly afterwards, for instance, when I ran into a tobacco store for some cigs.. After the problem occurs it usually drives ok if I continue to drive it awhile even if I shut it off for a short time and restart.. I added some fuel injector cleaner when I filled the tank but it didn't work.
After about a week of the stalling issues the car refused to start after dying and didn't start for two or three days. As I was unable to get an answer from the dealer my step-father, who went with me when I bought the car, called him and he said if I could get the car there he would fix it. So I borrowed a bundle to have it towed the 25 miles or so to the small town car lot.
His mechanic supposedly fixed it by replacing the TPS and the dealer informed me that they had cleaned the throttle body before I bought it and apparently the TPS needed replaced to. However the issues again started after one day of it running fine. I tired to get a hold of this guy again and again I get the voice mail and no return call so as soon as I got off work I drove it over there and again he said he would fix it. He had it for three days and I again tried to get a hold of him without success and he again answered the phone for my step-dad and told him they had ordered some kind of module that would be in Monday. So Wednesday he calls me and tells me that they didn't replace this module because when they took it out it tested good five times but they noticed some gunk build up at the contacts of the wires that hook to the module and now the car was fixed. Why did they order the part before testing??? This doesn't make sense so it throws doubt on what the man said. I went to get the car and when I got back to my town and went to get those cigs it died twice after restart and put into reverse. That was two days ago and it has been dying once or twice each day since then although it is somewhat better than before as it isn't taking as long for the idle to even out at sufficient rpms after I throttle it at idle or drive awhile. BUT now it seems to be sucking the gas hard and I am wondering if this guy just did some jerry-rigging because he sure isn't fixing it.
A few more details. The rpms drop rapidly when this occurs, it has a couple of times had a rough idle at the same time but more often the rpms drop and it dies.Sometimes if I use the throttle and keep it up around 1000 rpms for a short time it won't die. I have smelt a burnt smell a couple times when I shut the car off, like electric burnt, not oil burnt or stinky exhaust. Lets see, I felt a very brief loss of power feeling when driving on the highway on two different occasions, so brief that it was barely discernable. It runs over the halfway point on the temp gauge after driving awhile in town, seems a little hot to me but I read these cars don't kick on the fan till 220. Sometimes the rpm bobs a little up and down at idle and slow speeds and once the battery power dropped and popped right back up when it was idling funny and when it had that no start an acquaintance tested it by putting a screwdriver in a plug wire and pointing it towards the engine as I cranked it and he said it had no spark and it did crank every time I tried to start it during the no-start condition. It has also done a bit of surging from time to time when the prob happens. The car is recovering from the stall condition quicker than it did before since this last "fix" but still stalling.
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My 245 is running great. Love this car to death. I have been experiencing something weird. The car will start hard after sitting intermittently. It'll crank for 3 seconds and if I press the gas pedal it will fire right up. If I don't touch the pedal, itll will continue to crank...eventually sputtering and then firing. It will usually fore up right away if I don't let it sit for hours. I haven't exactly narrowed it down to a fuel prime issue, but that's kind of what it seems like to me. Are there any check valves or anything like that I could look into?
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I have a 2000 hyundai accent. I shut it off in my driveway earlier and went in long enough to use the bathroom and when i came back the car would not start. I squirted gas in the intake and it fired right up. A little later i was in town and it stalled and would not re-start. I had to walk to the store and get some ether to get it started back up. I have noticed since the first time that it will cut out every now and then for just a second and then go again while running down the road at around sixty mph... im at a loss as the local mechanic's computer wont hook up to it and there is no place to check the fuel pressure as i had wondered if maybe that was the problem having had another car do that before. the check engine light is not on either
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I have a 2000 honda v7 coupe and recently I've been having problems starting it. Generally when I drive to work in the morning it's fine. However if I am running errands and make many stops then it isn't. After stopping at one place I start my car like usual, then the RPMs rise, the car rumble, and then it stops. However if i pump the gas then it is fine. When I am driving then I have no issues and the car runs smoothly. I recently had a major maintenance and also told them about this problem. They said that they couldn't diagnose it since I didn't bring it in with the problem.
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I just bought a 2000 VW passat GLS 1.8T, and I'm having a very odd problem with it... I have trouble starting it, almost like the starter is going out, then it starts and runs fine, then I'll be driving and the screen on the gauge cluster will say stop and I'll start getting a beep, if I don't stop the car dies, if I do then it just sort of putters for a second and then goes back to normal, when it dies it loses all power completely everything shuts off then it resets. At first I thought it was the starter, then it started doing this.
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I have a 2000 Mercury Villager with 6 cylinder engine and 117+000 miles. It stalled out on me after starting to sputter.I feels like a problem I had with a Toyota some years back. It had a distributor and the ignition module went south. But this is fuel injected. I could be ignition problem, fuel filter clogged, fuel pump problem, dirty injectors, grounding problem, or ? There was no check engine light, or any other warning light before the problem. I have done lots of car repair and maintenance and plan on fixing what I can short of a computer/ignition problem. Yes it does have gas.
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