My 199 volvo s70 160,000 miles has only one problem when ever you put gas in it ,1gal or 10 it won’t start , it bucks and revs , 3000 rpm then if you use the brake and gas a move it a couple feet it run great , I tried to put gas in while running , but stall out the gas filter , is new the gas, tank has been look at no rust or dirt.
View 1 RepliesI have a 2001 Volvo V70 XC which won't remain on after I fill it up, and while cruising (but not accelerating!) on the highway, it will chug-chug-chug and gives a very jerky ride (confirmed with cruise control). This happens during 60-80 km/hr, but less so at 100-120 km/hr. After I fill the tank I have to rev the engine to get it to 'catch' - if I don't the tach will drop to zero and the car will stall.
View 2 Replies94 850 turbo will randomly smoke like crazy at which time it fills the car with smoke completely fogs whatever street you're on.
View 1 RepliesIncreasingly, my s70 won't start. Turn key and nothing When this first occurred this spring I had it towed to my mechanic. He found that a starter cable was starting to detach. He re attached and started all summer with a few exceptions. Now this fall it is not starting every couple of days. Turn key and nothing. Have if towed to the mechanic and it starts fine. So should I have the starter replaced?
View 4 RepliesMy ex drives our kid around Maui in a 1990 740 GLE (non turbo) and it's been stalling at the most inconvenient places and not starting for say, 20-30 minutes (then it seems to run fine, at least for another 15-20min. Our savant mechanic with an inherent drive to sleuth out problems is stumped as to why this intermittent stalling is going on. This seems to be happening when it is warmed up, first did it the after "acting funny" in 4th of July bumper to bumper traffic over in Lahaina, when it got to it's destination, it crapped out in the driveway.
Then, it stalled coming home the next day (fortunately right by beach park), a hot day, so I went out to get here a tow. Got rope on, it starts! Take rope off, realize I killed my battery in my Subie Outback while I was fiddling around with the 740, so she pulls it around to jump the Subaru, and it craps out again. So, we get someone else to jump Subie, I turn around to tow her and we go about a mile, tow rope snaps after crest of hill, but, 740 starts up and makes it back to Pa'ia (about 12 miles from that point).
Next day, mechanic looks at it, starts fine. No problem is reproduced, so hard to diagnose. Tonight, it stalled out again and started right back up a couple times during the day, then really stalled out turning onto the busy Hana Hwy from Baldwin Beach, thought I was going to tow her again, but 20 min later, it starts back up. So, for the second night in a row, I follow her home, but tonight it stalls out when making tight turn uphill to get to her neighborhood. So, I manage to tow her up and over to her place. (Accidentally took off front bumper when hook slipped, but I got it back on). And, of course, it starts right up.
Some background:
-fuel pump relay has been tested and is working.
-a couple weeks ago two of the injectors were replaced (or fixed, not sure) after we thought it was really going south (oil in plug cylinder, power loss).
-spark plugs replaced at same time injector issue was being assessed.
-fuel pump and filter underneath were replaced last year. (could it be other fuel pump inside tank?)
Every time I turn around this thing is stalling!
I have a check engine light issue combined with another issue when I have trouble starting the car after filling with gas. I fill it from less than a quarter tank to a full tank and it takes 5 tries to start it. The code that I'm getting is P0171 which is a fuel system for bank 1 is too lean. It runs ok as far as I can tell, but I just bought it. Its a 2006 Accent with 68 k miles. Both events happened close to each other. The check engine light came on when I was driving on the expressway and quickly stopped since the exit had traffic backed up on it. It triggered the check engine light with a quarter tank of gas I filled it up and then it had trouble starting
I already took it back to the dealer and he just cleared the code. I'm really worried about the check engine light coming on for silly things. They said it just needed to be cleared. Does it always do this? What if there is a real problem? If I take it back and he doesn't fix it, when can I get into the lemon law type stuff? I bought this car since I thought it would be reliable, but it already says check engine. Its only been two weeks since I got it and already having issues.
I drive a Sante fe 2002 V6 24V front wheel drive. The issue is that the car will not start after it gets filled up with gas unless I press and old the gas pedal, any other times the car starts with no issues. It was suggested that I change the gas cap which I did and no change, I tried living the cap loose but the the engine wouldn't shut off even with the keys out of the ignition and in my hand had to stall it in order for it to shut off. I purchased a ODB2 plugged it in and no codes appeared.
View 3 RepliesEvery time I go to fill up my gas tank it has trouble starting. It doesn't matter whether I use 91 89 or some other premium fuel. I have to crank it 4-6 times for about 6 seconds each time and then at the end of the last crank it will barely start. It will idle kinda rough for about 10 seconds and then until I go to fill up the gas tank it will run flawlessly, 27-31 mpg depending on driving style, starts up right away with out filling up the tank. The only other issue I have is an "emissions workshop" every time I start the car but I think that's just because of a bad check valve the I'm throwing a code for.
The car in question : VR6T 4 door 1996 golf
Car won't start after filling up with gas. I have tried a new fuel filter, new gas tank cap, checked for pressure on fuel pump. We have gottenit to start (but barely) when either hit gas tank with hammer or shake the back of the car, otherwise you have to set and wait 15-30 minutes before it will start and when it does it smells very weird (like it's flooded but an extra strange smell with it). I have seen a similar posting on here and someone suggested it might be a purge value problem. In talking with someone at auto store they didn't think this was the issue. I do have my check engine light on all the time and when checked the code , it said oxygen sensor. My two other Cavaliers have also had the oxygen sensor problem but it never did this with that code.
View 9 RepliesI have a 2003 hyundai Santa Fe that has had a problem for a few years that I can not figure out, nor can the hyundai dealership. (Though they seem to only want to hook it up to a computer, which tells them that nothing is wrong.) After filling up the car with gas, the car will turn over, but will stall immediately. You can press on the gas and it will stay going, but once you take your foot off the gas it stalls. It act like when you used to flood the corroborator. It takes about 4 times of turning over the car and stalling before it runs normally.
It is a GLS 4-cyl automatic AWD.
I have a 2005 Hyundai Santa Fe, about 128,000 miles on it. For the past 5 months or so, the engine simply won't start after filling with gas - and only after filling with gas. I've tried filling partially from near-empty, as well as filling full from halfway or more full...it consistently won't start up after filling with gas.
After turning the ignition, the engine will turn over, but quickly quits. Lately it's had more trouble turning over at all. To get the car moving, I need to actually feed it gas with the pedal, and "simulate" idle. Even after a couple of minutes, if I let off the pedal it dies right away....as if gas just isn't getting to the engine on its own.
In order to get the car moving, I just have to keep feeding it a bit of gas while shifting to drive (and stepping on the brake), then I give more gas and let the brake go almost as if it's manual-transmission....off it goes.
Oddest thing: as soon as that happens; as soon as the car moves forward (even just to get out of the gas station), everything's back to normal. The car idles healthily at the next stop, as if nothing happened.
No check-engine light, no diagnostic codes come up with a scan. Same results on warm or cold days. Most recent maintenance on it was new spark plugs almost a year ago (doesn't seem related).
Of course, the only time it DID fire up normally after filling with gas was when I had the mechanic with me in the car!
For several years my husbands car "chugs" and barely starts after filling up at the gas station. Once it starts it is good to go but it takes many cranks and pumping of the peddle to get it going. If you put gas in it with a gas can it doesn't have the problem so guess it may have to do with the pressure of gas going in from the pump?!. We have spent over 1500.00 when it first started to no avail...
View 12 RepliesI have a problem with the starting system on my 2002 Camry LE 4-cylinder. My problem started a few weeks ago. I drove it to the store, about five miles away, did my shopping, got back in the car, started it up and drove back toward home but stopped again to get gasoline. After filling the tank, the car wouldn't start. I turned the key but nothing happened. No noise, nothing. The starter motor wasn't turning over the engine. Thinking back, when I started my trip, the starting seemed a little weak but the car was sitting for a few days and it was cold out so I didn't make too much of that symptom.
So over the next half an hour, I tried starting it a few more times but got nothing but silence. So I called for a tow and $150 later I had my car back home. I put a load tester on the battery and it checked out fine. So I eliminated that part of the starting system being a problem. The next day, just out of curiosity, I tried starting it again and it fired up right away. The motor ran fine and I let it warm up for a while but I didn't go anywhere. I repeated this same procedure a few times over the past couple of weeks and each time the motor started up but again, I didn't chance going anywhere. However since I had some other maintenance projects I needed to get done on it and my wife has a 2014 Camry, having the 2002 out of service was inconvenient, but not an emergency.
So yesterday, with my maintenance projects done, I took the 2002 for a little test ride. Once again, it started up without a problem and I took my ride around the block. When I got home, I shut the motor off and went inside to grab a few tools. I came back outside, tried starting up the motor and got nothing. No start and no sound but the slight hum of the electric fuel pump. I tried a few more times with no success and then gave up for the evening. This morning, right before taking the other car to work, I tried starting it again just out of curiosity and once again, the motor fired right away. So this sequence of events tells me that something in the starting system is being impacted by heat when the motor is warm and when things cool down, they're fine.....at least for now.
I'm thinking the solenoid-starter may be going because I've had starters on other vehicles affected by heat before.
My wife's 2007 Accent started having starting problems right after filling the tank. Is this an EVAP canister problem?
View 8 RepliesJust bought a used but in pretty decent shape, 2002 Santa Fe, with 6 cylinder engine, 112K miles. I read the post about the vehicle that was hard to start after filling up - but this one is hard to start all the time - every time. Cranks fine, but once cranking, have to pump the gas pedal several times, and then it chugs just a second and then starts running. Slilght smell of gas if the hood is up, just after starting. Once running however, it runs perfectly on city and hwy. I have one mech that tells me "definitely the fuel pump" and another that tells me "definitely the purge valve" - this of course just from me describing the conditions, they have not actually seen it.
View 3 RepliesI have a hyundai accent, 2002, I have the typical hard to start when filling up the tank. My understanding is there are 2 Fuel Vapor Purge Valves, one in the rear next to the charcoal canister, the other is in the engine compartment attached to the intake manifold - is that correct?
Which purge valve is the culprit to the hard start after fueling the car? Why can I only find the rear purge valve when looking for parts - is the one up front a dealer only part?
2006 Kia Rio LX with 78K miles,
I recently performed several repairs in the car including replacement of the timing belt, all other drive belts (power steering, air conditioning, alternator).
Recently, the car has developed a new problem where it intermittently has been difficult to start, but only after filling up the gas tank. The engine cranks over okay but it seems like it might have vapor lock. It seems to occur every time we fill it up. Rarely, the car has appeared to run rough for a few seconds, the electronic control module seems to make an adjustment and then it runs better. The gas mileage has decreased from typical 28-32 miles a gallon down to 23-25 miles per gallon, despite getting new tires for the car.
Additionally, the check engine light has come on intermittently…once reset it stays off for up to two weeks then will come back intermittently with the following codes:
P0456 which indicates a problem with the fuel evaporation system, which may be related to the gas cap (sometimes when this comes on, the gas cap appears to be loose, but other times it appears to be tight).
P0300 which indicates in engine misfireP0301 which indicates in engine misfire in cylinder #1P0302 which indicates in engine misfire in cylinder #2The first time that I received this warning, I replaced the 4 spark plugs and the check engine light did not come back on for a couple weeks.
I have also previously received a code for faulty oxygen sensor temperature regulation for the forward most oxygen sensor. From what I have read, this may be related to oxygen sensors were related to an exhaust or intake leak. I have attempted to carefully inspect the intake and exhaust systems and I don't find evidence of leak. (From what I have read, a lean fuel condition which may be due to a vacuum leak in the intake manifold or unmetered air getting past the airflow sensor, or an EGR valve that is stuck open are possible causes.
I have visually inspected the 4 coils/plug wire units and they all appear to be intact and since the engine does not run rough (it idles smoothly, seems to have normal power etc.), I believe that they're all functioning.Any thoughts about what should be my next step to diagnose and to fix this problem?Replace gas cap?Replace oxygen sensors?EGR valve?Could this be related to the timing belt replacement (CEL did come on prior to the repair but gas mileage and problem starting after fill-up has started after the change)? Carbon canister or solenoid valve for evap emissions needs replacement?(I have never been in the habit of "topping off the tank").
I have difficulty starting after I fill the tank (usually to about 3/4 fill, not topping off.)
I searched the forums and noticed the evap. system N-80 purge valve may be the culprit. Other VW's have the issue including one thread on a Touareg.
I think I'm the first with this issue on a Phaeton. Sometimes getting loose gas cap faults too and on occasion a CEL. I had a fuel pump replaced last week, but this problem predates the pump failure.
Does this sound like the issue here? Doesn't it throw a code? I'm wondering why they didn't discover it when the diag'ed the bad fuel pump.
We had a Hyundai with the same problem. Every time my nephew fills the tank when he goes to start it he has to gun the engine and it takes several attempts to start. Mechanic changed some fitting but it didn't do the trick. Only happens after tank is filled. Other than that car runs fine. Only 45k miles.
View 6 RepliesI have a 2000 Hyundai Accent hatchback with 98k miles. About a month ago we were headed out of town and got gas about a mile away from the house. After filling up, the car wouldn't start. It would crank but not fire. Tried for about 15mins to no avail. Had it towed to local mechanic and it started right away. They kept it for the weekend and said they had no problems starting it, so without experiencing the problem they said they would just be throwing parts at it.
About 2 weeks after my wife drove to store and when she went to leave and same experience, but this time it started after trying for a couple of mins. Then just this Tuesday it wouldn't start in the morning. When it just cranks but not fire it shows a pending P0335 (crankshaft position sensor). So I ordered the part (won't arrive til Friday). When I got home I tried to start it as well to no avail; tried again Wednesday morning and evening, nothing. Then this morning (Thursday) it starts right up. Once its started it runs great. After recurrence of no start 2 weeks ago, I replaced spark plugs and spark plug wires.
Today the truck struggled to start after filling up, even harder the next time, and now it's in my driveway dead and I have a job at work that requires me to go to Michigan next week that I can't afford to lose. On to the issue...
When cranking, my icp won't go above 400psi now, and I understand I need Atleast 500 to fire off. I'm mechanically inclined but new to diesels, so don't be afraid to dumb it down...can't be cocky when your learning. Where should I start my troubleshooting?