My car has 109000 miles and we live in SD. Recently the car just won't go uphills - the engine revs up, but the speed doesn't get above 40-45 miles per hour. Once at the top of the hill, the car just takes off and drives normally until the next hil! What could be the problem.
View 5 RepliesYesterday I measured the mpg going uphill.
It was 22.2 MPG going Uphill 4.7 Miles from elevation 50ft to elevation 1250 ft. It is more than 50% drop in the mileage.
Do other cars ( non-prius / non-hybrid ) too drop 50% mpg going uphill ?
My car has 109000 miles and we live in SD. Recently the car just won't go uphills - the engine revs up, but the speed doesn't get above 40-45 miles per hour. Once at the top of the hill, the car just takes off and drives normally until the next hil! What could be the problem.
View 7 RepliesThe clutch started to slip on my 2006 Matrix at just 32K miles.Only going up hills ~3500rpm, near the engine's torque peak.The previous owner must have dogged it in the 8,100 miles they had it.Unfortunately no way to know that time bomb was there.
Got the car back today. (Excellent indie shop in College Park MD)The flywheel and pressure plate had blue color from overheating.The flywheel had to be resurfaced.The friction disk was not worn down much.The pressure plate springs apparently were weakened from the heat.I can really feel the difference.
My '78 245 drives just fine around the (flat) city but when I try to take it to the mountains it seems to struggle. It makes it fine up the hills for the first 30 minutes or so but eventually it starts to chug and will lose power and die. If I give it 10 minutes to rest it will start up just fine and drive fine for a while but if I continue to go uphill it will die again. It doesn't overheat too much, it just seems like it's not getting enough of something? And it doesn't seem like it's a fuel pump because i've replaced those before and it seems different this time. After returning home from the mountains, it's like nothing happened and it drives fine?
View 1 RepliesWe have a problem with our 1992 240 wagon. When it rains the car starts first thing in the morning but then stalls after driving 2 miles. After letting it sit for a few min. and cranking the engine it starts and will run. If we let the car run for 10 min. before driving everything is good for the day unless the car is parked for a period of time. Then it start and we need let it idle before driving. We have had the Mass air flow sensor replaced twice and that solves the problem for a few months.
This past week the car has started to stall on a damp morning even with the sun shining. Then later in the day it runs rough at a stop or stalls.
I've been trying to diagnose a problem i've been having. Every now and then after driving for about 30 miles, my car won't start for about five to ten minutes. I've had no problems while driving.
- The engine cranks, but doesn't turn over
- I can hear the fuel pump engage when i turn the ignition
- My crank sensor was replaced last summer, my SRS relay is good, as is my fuel injector relay
- Spark plugs and distributor cap are new
- It's a Regina fuel injection
I'm thinking RPM sensor at this point, but i'd hate to replace it if it's not the problem.
My 1990 Volvo is making a terrible noise at about 20-30 miles per hour. It only lasts a few minutes but it sounds like a plane taking off underneath the passenger seat (wagon). Had the muffler replaced, but it didn't fix the noise. I also have a high pitched noise at freeway speeds.
View 2 Repliesmy 2007 3.2 s80, 75 K miles, will not respond to accelerator for the first 1-2 miles after a cold start, then runs fine, no check engine light has shown. Per shop recommendation switched to 92 octane x3tanks, then replaced fuel sensor, neither solved.
View 15 RepliesMy daugther 2002 Volvo V50 blow an engine because of the time belt slipped She had only had less than 75000 and was relgious about her mx checkups timely and by only Volvo Mechanics. She is a Service member in Gemany and the Germany dealer say there is nothing she can do. How to get this engine replaced or even credit for a new volvo. The Engine is gone and the mechanic said 7000 Euro. The car blue book at 9500 Euro.
View 10 RepliesI had my transmission fluid changed because it was leaking from the pan. I did the job myself but called VW to confirm how much fluid I needed. They told me the wrong amount but we realized that after we did the job.. they did the repair for a huge discount and I only paid $200 bucks for the work for them to "fix" what they messed up. Volkswagen did it and I got the car serviced at the end of April basically. now its the first week of July and under 90 days since the car was service and now it is shifting hard between 2nd and 3rd gear or 35 miles to 45 miles per hour. The car isn't throwing a transmission code I have a vag com and there is no code coming up on that.
View 1 RepliesHow many miles can be driven after the computer tells you have zero miles left to empty? Or rather how many gallons do you think is left in the tank after the computer says you're empty?
View 19 RepliesMy 2006 GS300 has oil burning issue after 80k miles now my odo is at 110k miles. I have changed my oil every 5000 miles, keep burning about 1 quart every 1k miles average. Literally burnt about 20 quarts of an oil with premium fuel. At 105k miles, I had replaced my bank 2 sensor 2 after the check engine light and vsc light came on, reset the code those lights came right back on.
Check the code again, found out bad cat converter between passenger side sensors. The recalls has been done at 65k miles at dealer. My questions are :
-What would be the cause of burning that much of an oil? No leaking on floor or bad smell.
-Is burnt oil causing the failure of cat converter?
-If I replace the cat, will it go bad again?
What are the correct timing marks and positions for a Volvo 940 Turbo? I especially need the position of the crankshaft pulley. I have read the timing mark is on the cover, but unfortunately mine has dry rotted and crumbled away.
View 1 Replies5.7 vortec has like a dead spot in gas pedal. No power really bad going up hill. New gas pump, tps....
View 3 RepliesI travel this interstate route often that is somewhat hilly. I always use cruise control. When I got my 2007 Sonata (I4) 4 speed A/T and traveled on this road I never noticed much down shifting. Later my daughter bought a 2010 Sonata (I4) 5 speed A/T, and on this road I noticed the Xmission downshifting sometimes. When I got my 2013 (I4) 6 speed A/T, I started noticing it more often downshifting. I'm sure thats since the final drive ratio is much higher in each successive car. When my wife is driving she doesn't notice but I can tell even from the passenger seat. I can stop the downshifting by putting it in manual mode. but I see the RPMs increase somewhat. I assume thats from the TC lockup disengaging and the CC trying to maintain speed if a long hill. I suppose if the hill was long enough and steep enough that I would eventually lose speed but that doesn't occur(very much). If that is more economically that letting it just go ahead and downshift. Am I the only one annoyed by this constant up/down shifting?
View 21 Replies04 Touareg V6 ... Slow acceleration.. running rough.. hesitation during acceleration especially when going up hill. Engine light is on. P0300 is the computer code coming up.
View 4 RepliesThis weekend I'm heading to a friend's house up on the hill. The road on the way to his house is steep. I've never learned how to use the 1,2 gear other than Drive. Should I slow down(let go of gas pedal) before switching to 1 or 2? Or brake completely then switch gear? I really don't know. I don't even know the difference between 1 and 2.
View 1 RepliesI just bought this car last night from a guy with a dealer license. The car was used, so he sold it with an "as-is" statement. I've read there is a 2 day law to return used cars, but he never gave me this option.
I test drove the car but nothing appeared wrong except the heater did not blow hot, thought the car wasn't warmed up. May be unrelated. Anyways, driving on the interstate I noticed he pulled the battery before selling it to clear the trip memory, and all of that information. So I asked him and he said it was for a small part he installed (he showed me, it looks like a thermostat of some kind with a hose coming off of it, he did not know the name).
I've noticed that my car is struggling a lot to climb uphill. I am not seeing any signs yet but I hear the gas engine running hard all the time going 30mph-50mph depending on elevation. Battery level on the monitor is always one or two purples when climbing up but it charges pretty quickly downhill. Should I risk driving the car anymore? My next destination is Yellowstone and Banff National Park so these driving conditions will continue.
View 19 RepliesSo, I was in Wash. State for a while this month and rented a Prius. I decided to check some mileage on mountain roads, and here's what I got. All of these are indicated by the computer, so they are probably 5% or so high. Unfortunately, I did not see either the maximum incline or average incline of these roads posted anywhere, so unless someone else knows them, these numbers are not worth too much scientifically:
UPHILL:
Going uphill on I-90 to Snoqualmie Pass from the West (from Seattle), at 70 mph (the speed limit), fairly steady, with a few decreases for traffic and curves: 18.6 mpg.
Going uphill on US 97 to Blewitt Pass from the north at 50 mph, also the speed limit: 27 mpg.
Going uphill on the Olympic National Park road to Hurricane Ridge, speed limit varying between 35 and 25, with a couple of sections as low as 15 mph: 22.1 mpg. (Maximum incline here might have been 6 or 7 percent).
On the Hurricane Ridge road, I reset the Trip Meter A about a mile from the top (interestingly both segments of the uphill trip registered 22.1).
DOWNHILL, mostly:
The Hurricane Ridge downhill produced an interesting number, because I didn't reset the thing at the top, so I had a mile of 22.1 mpg at the beginning. You go down for about 18 miles, losing about 5200 feet of altitude to nearly sea level (Strait of Juan de Fuca). We kept driving, and at 24.7 miles (so about 6 miles of driving near sea level), the mileage gauge still showed 99.9 mpg. (I took a picture, but it's too fuzzy to put in here.) It was a couple of more miles before I noticed that the trip mpg was down to about 91.