My car has 109000 miles and we live in SD. Recently the car just won't go uphills - the engine revs up, but the speed doesn't get above 40-45 miles per hour. Once at the top of the hill, the car just takes off and drives normally until the next hil! What could be the problem.
View 7 RepliesMy car has 109000 miles and we live in SD. Recently the car just won't go uphills - the engine revs up, but the speed doesn't get above 40-45 miles per hour. Once at the top of the hill, the car just takes off and drives normally until the next hil! What could be the problem.
View 5 RepliesI've been having problems with my '02 Elantra. It shudders and doesn't accelerate well (or at all) going up hill, or attempting to accelerate quickly (like passing a car on the interstate). If I try to push it through these situations it will run worse, engine light flashes, and sometimes will stall. In the past, when it stalled, it would start up again in about 30mins or so.
Codes it has thrown were P0304, P0303, and P0420.
When I took it to mechanic, he really couldn't figure it out. He ended up testing and replacing fuel pump motor in November. Got it back and within a few days it was throwing same codes and having same symptoms.
Everything else from this point as been DIY. I bought a manual, researched these forums, learned as I went, and did the following myself:
I changed the spark plugs and wires. Still ran as described above but at this point when the engine light comes on, I am only down to the P0304 code right now.
Thought perhaps it was a vacuum leak. I have very few tools, and Autozone said I could use seafoam as a means to tell if I had a leak if smoke came out of vacuum lines as I put it in. I tried this, none came out of vacuum lines that I could tell. I drove it after seafoam, some white smoke came out tail pipe from solution but dissipated after driving a little while, and then I had the shuddering issues and loss of power while driving the interstate. It literally would act like I wasn't pressing the gas peddle, then suddenly surge as if it realized I was... engine continued to run until I pulled over and then it stalled. Normally it would start right back up after 30mins or so. But this time it didn't, I had to tow it home.
With a crap load of starter fluid and jamming the gas pedal, I finally got it to start. It ran horribly at idle, had a weird knock. So I didn't drive it and did the following instead.
I replaced the coil pack.
Replaced crank position sensor.
I confirmed that I have spark on all 4 cylinders.
There are no obvious oil leaks (nothing on garage floor and I don't see any obvious signs of wet oil on engine or smoke when it runs)
Temperature is fine, coolant level is normal & hasn't needed refill or topping off.
I pulled the fuel pump again, noticed that the fuel sock had holes and was full of muddy/pasty type crap. Gas was dark, cloudy in spots, and appeared to separate in some areas.
Replaced fuel sock.
Syphoned gas.
Thoroughly cleaned out gas tank.
Put premium gas in.
Manually cleaned fuel injectors.
Reassembled and it started right up, runs strong, no more weird knock, but the other symptoms start to reappear... the shuddering, loss of power, and stalling. Its intermittent... sometimes when I jam on the gas peddle, sometimes when I'm cruising at low speeds. I can force it to stall by jamming on the gas peddle to the floor, acts like it's choking, engine light flashes, lose power, then it stalls. Pretty much every time I push it like that.
I can continue to limp it to Autozone for codes, but the engine light currently isn't on.... and it usually takes it a hard drive pushing it through the symptoms for the light to appear, and it's always been the P0304 code at this point.
Is there anything else I can do from home with no special testing equipment?
Is there a part or sensor that would cause these symptoms and NOT throw a code other than the misfire?
My '78 245 drives just fine around the (flat) city but when I try to take it to the mountains it seems to struggle. It makes it fine up the hills for the first 30 minutes or so but eventually it starts to chug and will lose power and die. If I give it 10 minutes to rest it will start up just fine and drive fine for a while but if I continue to go uphill it will die again. It doesn't overheat too much, it just seems like it's not getting enough of something? And it doesn't seem like it's a fuel pump because i've replaced those before and it seems different this time. After returning home from the mountains, it's like nothing happened and it drives fine?
View 1 RepliesRecently I have another problem:
When I drive uphill on the way the car's transmission doesn't shift up to the upper gear,the gear stays on 1,when I press the gas pedal more the EPC light comes on the dashboard,I must release 2-3 times the gas pedal then the gear goes up to 2-nd or 3-rd gear.This happens only when I drive uphill,when drive on flat street this problem almost doesn't come.
Another,when I drive downhill,the gear doesn't release sometimes too,the car tries to stop from 3-rd gear directly to 0,and the RPM goes straight to 100-200,even the car turns off... I heard something for the VW Phaeton transmission problems,and that it can be SOFTWARE flashed and the problems go away???
2006 Camry. Last winter, I ran into a pile of snow and got stuck. I accidentally switched gears from R and D without going to neutral and this is when the issue started. When I switch to Park, it won't hold anymore, it rolls (when uphill); I have to use the handbrake all the time. By the way, I have no issue starting the car, when it is in Park position.
View 10 RepliesI have an automatic 1992 940 GL and it has been almost a year since the head gasket blew in the car. The gaskets and everything have been replaced as well as the fuel filter, transmission pulley, and timing belt. The car seems to run fine except for a small problem with the gears. When driving it's like it doesn't want to shift into the next gear unless you let off the gas a little bit which then it shifts over fine and it does this for all for gears. It has also recently started back to stalling out at a stop light or stop sign but very rarely.
View 1 RepliesThe system is charged, the fan looks working, but the a/c works well only when the cars is moving. What is it?
We think it works well if the "rear ac" is on, but that's not normal anyway.
The system is charged, a autozone tester say overloaded but the gauge of a technician says is ok, then who knows. The fan is working and the car never goes overheat, then I guess that fan is working good.
I owned a Volvo 2003 s60, my question is I don't whether my car has an alarm system and siren, I have tried to open the door from inside, but the alarm doesn't come on. If doesn't have how can I install one.
View 2 RepliesI have a 03 xc90 t6 came out of work the other day and it wouldn't start replaced spark plugs, both cam sensors, crank sensor. After doing all that it sounds like it wants to fire now but doesnt.
View 1 RepliesMy 1989 740GL has a blower motor that doesn't work; I looked into it and discovered a blown 30A fuse. So I replaced fuse and guess what? "POP"! No luck... It keeps blowing them, so I really haven't looked that far into it, but where I might start?
View 2 RepliesWhat are the correct timing marks and positions for a Volvo 940 Turbo? I especially need the position of the crankshaft pulley. I have read the timing mark is on the cover, but unfortunately mine has dry rotted and crumbled away.
View 1 RepliesI have a 94 ford Taurus all of a sudden my ac doesn't blow cold and my heat doesn't blow hot. Also every now and again I hear a sound like an alarm clock coming from passenger side??
View 3 Replies5.7 vortec has like a dead spot in gas pedal. No power really bad going up hill. New gas pump, tps....
View 3 RepliesYesterday I measured the mpg going uphill.
It was 22.2 MPG going Uphill 4.7 Miles from elevation 50ft to elevation 1250 ft. It is more than 50% drop in the mileage.
Do other cars ( non-prius / non-hybrid ) too drop 50% mpg going uphill ?
I travel this interstate route often that is somewhat hilly. I always use cruise control. When I got my 2007 Sonata (I4) 4 speed A/T and traveled on this road I never noticed much down shifting. Later my daughter bought a 2010 Sonata (I4) 5 speed A/T, and on this road I noticed the Xmission downshifting sometimes. When I got my 2013 (I4) 6 speed A/T, I started noticing it more often downshifting. I'm sure thats since the final drive ratio is much higher in each successive car. When my wife is driving she doesn't notice but I can tell even from the passenger seat. I can stop the downshifting by putting it in manual mode. but I see the RPMs increase somewhat. I assume thats from the TC lockup disengaging and the CC trying to maintain speed if a long hill. I suppose if the hill was long enough and steep enough that I would eventually lose speed but that doesn't occur(very much). If that is more economically that letting it just go ahead and downshift. Am I the only one annoyed by this constant up/down shifting?
View 21 Replies04 Touareg V6 ... Slow acceleration.. running rough.. hesitation during acceleration especially when going up hill. Engine light is on. P0300 is the computer code coming up.
View 4 RepliesThis weekend I'm heading to a friend's house up on the hill. The road on the way to his house is steep. I've never learned how to use the 1,2 gear other than Drive. Should I slow down(let go of gas pedal) before switching to 1 or 2? Or brake completely then switch gear? I really don't know. I don't even know the difference between 1 and 2.
View 1 RepliesI just bought this car last night from a guy with a dealer license. The car was used, so he sold it with an "as-is" statement. I've read there is a 2 day law to return used cars, but he never gave me this option.
I test drove the car but nothing appeared wrong except the heater did not blow hot, thought the car wasn't warmed up. May be unrelated. Anyways, driving on the interstate I noticed he pulled the battery before selling it to clear the trip memory, and all of that information. So I asked him and he said it was for a small part he installed (he showed me, it looks like a thermostat of some kind with a hose coming off of it, he did not know the name).
I've noticed that my car is struggling a lot to climb uphill. I am not seeing any signs yet but I hear the gas engine running hard all the time going 30mph-50mph depending on elevation. Battery level on the monitor is always one or two purples when climbing up but it charges pretty quickly downhill. Should I risk driving the car anymore? My next destination is Yellowstone and Banff National Park so these driving conditions will continue.
View 19 RepliesSo, I was in Wash. State for a while this month and rented a Prius. I decided to check some mileage on mountain roads, and here's what I got. All of these are indicated by the computer, so they are probably 5% or so high. Unfortunately, I did not see either the maximum incline or average incline of these roads posted anywhere, so unless someone else knows them, these numbers are not worth too much scientifically:
UPHILL:
Going uphill on I-90 to Snoqualmie Pass from the West (from Seattle), at 70 mph (the speed limit), fairly steady, with a few decreases for traffic and curves: 18.6 mpg.
Going uphill on US 97 to Blewitt Pass from the north at 50 mph, also the speed limit: 27 mpg.
Going uphill on the Olympic National Park road to Hurricane Ridge, speed limit varying between 35 and 25, with a couple of sections as low as 15 mph: 22.1 mpg. (Maximum incline here might have been 6 or 7 percent).
On the Hurricane Ridge road, I reset the Trip Meter A about a mile from the top (interestingly both segments of the uphill trip registered 22.1).
DOWNHILL, mostly:
The Hurricane Ridge downhill produced an interesting number, because I didn't reset the thing at the top, so I had a mile of 22.1 mpg at the beginning. You go down for about 18 miles, losing about 5200 feet of altitude to nearly sea level (Strait of Juan de Fuca). We kept driving, and at 24.7 miles (so about 6 miles of driving near sea level), the mileage gauge still showed 99.9 mpg. (I took a picture, but it's too fuzzy to put in here.) It was a couple of more miles before I noticed that the trip mpg was down to about 91.