Ok is it possible that a wheel bearing could have been affected by over lubricating the barring of our 2005 Volvo S60. It wasn’t making a noise from the left front wheel when the job was done, but when I left the shop I started to hear a noise that intensified when I turned left then continues at about the same pitch as I drove straight down the road. We haven’t taken the car in to verify my concern.
View 4 Replies2005 volvo s40. I have what sounds like a clicking/ticking noise that seems to be coming from the driver side rear wheel. The faster i accelerate the more rapid the ticking becomes. However when i brake the noise goes away for the entire time im braking. What could be causing this noise?
View 2 RepliesI've been having a lot of noise coming from the front left tire, and I finally had it diagnosed as a bad wheel bearing today.
I noticed that the front wheel bearings are sold individually while the rear wheel bearings are sold as hub assemblies. Is there a certain way that the front wheel bearings have to be removed and pressed on? I'm trying to see if this is a DIY repair.
My 2007 hyundai veracruz broke down 2 days ago--the 2 month old battery was dead due to the alternator failure. The shop diagnosed the origin of the problem as a leak at the valve cover gasket, which ruined the alternator, and thus disabled the battery. My car has approx. 70,000 miles on it.
View 10 RepliesI have a 1996 Explorer XLT 4x4 and I hear what I call barring making a noise when I accelerate. If it is the bearings in the rear end how expensive is this to fix? I love my truck but I'm on a fixed income and scared to death. I will not drive it until I get some sort of idea as to what and where I should take it.
View 2 Replies I replaced both 1/2 axles last week after one CV boot pretty much disintegrated. Since it is a 2005 Acura TL with 146K miles, I changed both axles completely. BTW - I had NO forewarning, noises, etc. before the axles died last week! I only perceived an increase in road noise, but did not hear noises squeaks, thumps, clacks, etc.!) The first day I drove the car after the new axles, I noticed a thump, thump, thump from the right wheel area when I made a sharp, slow turn out of my driveway. It only happened once, but it was a quick trip.
The next day, I noticed it again as I pulled out of my driveway and later as I pulled into a parking spot. There are no other symptoms and it only occurs when the wheel is turned to an extreme (80-90 degree) at little to no speed. I tested it in an empty parking lot - slow circles in either direction will cause the thump, primarily coming from the right wheel area. I immediately drove to the repair shop and made an appointment. Why I'd develop a new thump immediately after getting new axles? I'm thinking something isn't right with their installation. Of course, they say nothing is wrong with what they did - the problem now is that I need stabilizer links?! Sounds like BS to me - why all of a sudden do I need BOTH stabilizer links immediately after repair work?
I recently brought my 2005 toyota corolla to my mechanic to give my car a check up as i will be going on a three week road trip soon.Upon assessment, my mechanic told me that my front right wheel bearing was making a strange noise and that i should replace it. I went ahead and had it replaced. after i had it replaced the front right wheel area was still making a grinding noise (louder than before it was replaced). I brought it back and he replaced it again with a new wheel bearing.
Again after the 2nd replacement it continued to make a load crunching, grinding noise when ever i brake the car. So once again, i brought it back. I thought perhaps it was my brake rotor and had him check that. He did just that and said the break was fine. He said it may be because the axl was not sitting true. so i had the axl replaced. well today i picked up the car and drove it approx 5 miles and the same crunching/grinding noise persists!!! I brought it back and it is once again being worked on. I need it fixed and am worried that my car won't hold up for my upcoming 4000mile road trip. I have attached a video clip of the sound to this post.
I have a 2005 Camry XLE. Since past few months I have started hearing a strange grinding / thumping noise from the front passenger side wheel. It can be clearly heard at slow speed and almost sounds like the wheel is lopsided and is rubbing against something. As the car picks up speed, the frequency picks up and the sounds disappears eventually.
So, I figured it must have been because the car had hit a curb few months ago and must have bent the rim. I had the wheels looked at while getting rotation and balancing done and was told that there is no rim damage. The sound went down a little after rotating the wheels but is still there. The mechanic doesn't think that it is the bearing because the sound disappears after moderate speeds. So, trying to figure out what could be causing the noise?
What the front wheel well liner shields that are held in by plastic clips are called there are made out of rubber cardboard fiberish material they keep water and debrie from getting in through the wheel wells. Need to know the part number.
View 6 RepliesI just had front and back brakes replaced and there is noise coming from front (I think it's the front)? Any way my brother says its the wheel bearings and that my mechanic should have "caught" that they were bad. I've gone to mechanic for almost 10 years and trust him. Never had wheel bearing problems before so not sure what to think. And if it is wheel bearing can u ballpark cost to fix in Illinois ?
View 10 RepliesI have a 2005 Lexus is 200, but I'm not sure if the model even matters for my question.
Anyway, I'm hearing a strange whistle from the front right wheel, and I'm sure the sound comes from it. I made a youtube video so you can get the idea.
The sound starts at around 50km/h speed and it does not change after that, meaning that it doesn't become harder if I speed up and if I slow down to 40 or 20 it does not go away. But if the car is cold, it does not start until I reach 50-60km/h speed.
Also, I tried turning the engine off on neutral while driving and it did not influence the noise in anyway. So its not related to motor.
In the video it starts from 11s and you can hear it clearly starting at 57s when I speed up. Because of other sounds you probably can not hear it as clear as I can, but just listen to the whole video and I think you will get a clear idea.
Here is the video: [URL] ....
The thing is, I went to a decent repair garage and they could not say what it is. So assume that basic things like breaks or the like were checked by mechanics.
I want to add that there probably was a hard hit to the right wheel recently while driving in reverse, I say "probably" because the person did it does not want to admit it and I can only guess, so I dont have an idea how it went. But I found a deep slicing (not sure if its the right word) on the right wheel tire and it was so deep (and around 5cm in width) that I had to replace the tire. So assume that there could have been a hard hit and the wheel took damage. The noise started a couple of the days after I found it.
I am hearing a weird knocking with every rotation of the left front wheel and I know it is not the cv joints. I replaced the wheel bearings on the car a week ago . I think it maybe the brakes have got loose and hitting the rotor or the wheel might be loose but I'm not really sure and it knocks faster with acceleration.
View 7 RepliesI've been having this ongoing clunk in the front of my 06 Avalon for about a month now. When I slightly hit the brake i'm getting almost a metal on metal clunk sound from right in front of the drivers side wheel area, or possibly on the other side wheel well area, and not sure if its related but a popping noise when i turn my wheel a certain way it seems.
Replaced:
Both CV axles
Both Rotors
Both transmission mount and engine mount (left and right side)
Dog Bone torque bar on top
Drivers side caliper
Control arms
Struts were replaced 6 months ago, and reused old mounts, so I took it out and replaced the strut mount with the bearing on passenger side only.
Control arms have been replaced 4 or 5 times in 6 months because they keep cracking, they are being installed correctly and still having the issue, they're slightly cracked right now (many tiny little rips in the rubber rear bushing of the front control arms) perhaps this is the problem and they're flexing too far? They're Dorman and ordered off of amazon. I have 2 replacement ones arriving tomorrow and will throw them in.
124k miles. I have had multiple shops look at it and cant figure it out, they said everything is tight. One shop said it was internal transmission.
I have a 2005 Explorer XLT with the 4.0L V6 and AdvanceTrac.
I've had a worsening growl in the front end that sounds like it's coming from the front left wheel. I can feel it in the steering wheel, and the sound goes away when I turn the wheel right of center. Center (going straight) or leftward steering, and the noise comes right back.
I changed the wheel bearing today, and there is absolutely no change in symptoms. Turning the CV shaft back and forth by hand, something feels kind of "grindy." It is the same at any point along the shaft, which has me worried that the bad bearing is in the front differential.
I have a 2005 Jeep Wrangler Sport with a six-speed manual trans and an in-line 4.0 6-cyl engine. I discovered a month or so ago a strange rattling sound coming from, what sounded like, the front passenger wheel area. It would occur when I slowed down to 10mph or slower or when coming to a complete stop, or when starting out from a stop, until surpassing the 10-12mph mark. The rattle is audible both inside and outside the vehicle. It's a low-pitched sound like an "aaaaaahhhh" you make when opening wide for the doctor to look down your throat, only with a metallic rattle thrown in. Best way I know to describe it is a voice saying "aaaaahhhhh" through the back of a fan.
I recently discovered, when I took it in for an oil change and tire rotation, that my front tires were wearing much faster than the backs and had a very noticeable "choppiness" to the tread. I have since installed new shock absorbers on both sides of the front suspension in hopes that would even the ride out for the front and eliminate the choppy tire wear. I originally thought that the tire wear and the rattle were related, but I took it to a mechanic who raised the front end and hand-spun both front tires and they made no audible sounds while spinning.
The mechanic said he believes that the rattle is coming from the front differential. Now, I am no pro mechanic, but I am not afraid to tackle a car repair job as long as I know I have the tools I need at hand to properly complete the job. First of all, does the differential sound like a good place to look? There's no change in the rattle when applying or releasing the clutch and it shifts smoothly, so I am pretty certain it's not in the transmission. Is the differential something that I could remove the cover and adequately diagnose a problem on my own? Just don't have funds available for a large car repair bill, so I am looking at trying to tackle the issue myself.
My 05 Caravan is in excellent shape with only 40k miles and noticed rust and paint bubbles only on the lower front side of the rear wheel well (drivers side). I live in Pa and wash the car after snow storms. Of course the car is out of rust warranty and the dealer said they can repair it but they do not know what causes it. I have seen this exact problem on other caravans and I have been told it is were the two pieces of metal are joined together, the wheel well seam, which causes the problem. We sealed the seam last fall with silicon when it was just paint bubbles and now it has gotten worse. My thinking is either we need to go back and look at the seam again as we only sealed the section that looked open or there is a leak from somewhere else in the van - the gas cap area or the area on the frame when the door is open is suspect to me. Basically I am asking if there is anywhere else I should look for this leak besides the wheel well seam?
View 7 RepliesThis front end steering wheel wobbling and sometimes outright jerking is really annoying. Only happens at around 45mph, usually decelerating or coasting from a higher speed. Doesn't happen at low speeds, doesn't happen over 50. Doesn't happen when braking.
Took wheels off, tires are fine. Rotated smooth, tires about 2 years old, even tread wear, not bad. Small amount of play on driver's side front when I grab wheel. I guess this means I might have to replace that wheel bearing? Friend keeps insisting it's a warped tire. I just don't see that. No loose play in ball joint, bushings, tire rod, etc.
I guess I'll take wheel off again and check rotors. There's a little rust build up on outer ring. But it's not doing it when braking. Perplexed!
I guess I'll have wheel balance checked, but I switched the R to F out (and even tried old tires mounted on wheels switched out from my old 940). Didn't seem to make a difference, but that was several months ago.
When I have to brake suddenly, at about 35 miles an hour, I begin to get strong vibrations in the steering wheel and the same in the brakes. After 35 miles an hour (and prior to this speed), it's relatively smooth. I'm also starting to notice an unevenness in my tires. I've gotten it checked out and was told that my brakes still have wear, but there was a little "warping."
View 2 RepliesI have a Volvo XC90 2.4 D5 2004. But none of the buttons on the steering wheel are working - not volume for radio, not cruise control.
Symptoms are following:
* buttons on the steering wheel are lighted up
* buttons on the steering wheel are not working, none of them
* horn is not working
I have checked internet over and over and have 3 conclusions, what might be faulty:
1) steeling wheel lining/wire/connections - but in this case they would work periodically and the buttons would not be lighted up;
2) steering wheel module (swm) - in this case also the turn signals would not work and also the headlight would be faulty;
3) clockspring - in this case the airbag light should light up in dashboard.
I drive a 2006 Volvo V50 with 65k. Recently the car started making a noise and the dealership told me that I need new front wheel hubs because my bearings are shot. The car has always been well within the weight limit, has never been through deep water (we do line in the pac NW so there is a decent amount of rain), and has had complete service at all of the maintenance times. I think that under 125k bearings should not be giving out and that volvo should replace the bearings for free - the mechanic is telling me that there is no set time for bearings to wear out - it can happen at literally any time/mileage/age and it would not be the company's fault. Who is correct?
View 10 RepliesI have a 2005 Volvo S60
Do all HID low beam headlights have Xenon in them? Can you buy an HID bulb with no Xenon? Does it matter for my car? I read in some places HID and Xenon go together then I read elsewhere you can buy HID bulbs with no Xenon?