Volvo - S60 :: 2003 - Engine Cuts Out While Turning
Jan 31, 2013
I've got a 2003 Volvo S60 with close to 121,000 miles on it.
Last winter, my Engine cut out on me as I was taking a sharp right onto my home street. At first, I thought I hit an icy patch and my car had skidded, but then I realized the engine was off, but all the lights on my dashboard were on (including all the warning/alert lights). I put the car in park, turned my key into the off position, then tried to start it up. It immediately started. Other factors: There was snow and I had just recently exited the highway.
Everything seemed to be going pretty well until this winter (in Connecticut) when my car cut out on me again. Just like before, I assumed I had hit an icy patch as the car seemed sluggish and unresponsive (and it had just snowed). Again, it happened as I was taking a right turn, and it's happened about three times since.
Today was the first time it happened as I was making a left turn. Luckily, I was the last car in the turning lane, and I managed to get my car more or less close to the shoulder and put my hazard lights on (as traffic was now approaching), and Nik Nak rebooted just as before.
I used to think the cold/snow had something to do with it, but it was 50 degrees today. Also, I'm not entirely sure, but I think the wheel may have been turned as far as it could go. I honestly can't remember if that was the case the other times it cut out. I plan on experimenting in a parking lot tomorrow to see if turning the wheel all the way is causing it.
What might be causing it? (And besides not turning the steering wheel all the way, how this problem may be fixed?)
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My 1989 740 Turbo wagon cuts out while I'm driving. It only ever does it at about the point when the engine first reaches its normal operating temperature. It can cut out while idling or when driving at normal speed. I'm not sure if it's related to temperature or time (it usually cuts out at about the 5-8 minute mark), or if this is simply coincidental. It does it nearly every day.
It's definitely caused by the fuel pump relay cutting out. I've replaced this already, with no improvement. Something is causing the relay to suddenly lose an input.
Once cut, it takes a few quick flicks of the key to the START position for the fuel pump relay to receive power again. It will then drive faultlessly for the rest of the day. Although, if allowed to sit and cool for many hours, it will sometimes do this again.
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I own a 2003 Jetta that is standard. I was driving to school today and the engine just cut off. It was acting as if I had stalled out but it was in neutral and the clutch was all the way down. I've also had problems with my car not wanting to start. If I press on the gas once or twice that usually fixes that problem.
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Was just out and about today with my girlfriend and while driving back home, the engine just randomly cutout. I pulled over to the side of the road and popped the hood just to see if something came undone. Everything is kosher. Started it back up and carried on, but while driving the rpms kept dropping low and when stopped it would drop to about 450-500rpm.
So I put it in neutral and kept my foot on the gas to keep the engine up to about 1000-1500 RPM just so it wouldn't cutout. Drove part of the way home with overdrive off, even though speed limits in some areas won't let me even get into over drive. No check engine light, no messages on the message center, nothing. Looked into it and it seems to be one of several things.
Mass Air Flow sensor
Fuel Filter
Fuel Pump
Throttle Position Sensor
Yesterday I did fill up with gas, so maybe I got a there after they filled up the tanks. 2003 Merc. Mountaineer 4.6L.
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I drive a 92 Volvo 240 with under 100,000 miles on it. Previous owner never really drove it, had it for about four years now. During the winter we seem to have electrical issues; back in 2009 I turned the car on after going shopping and drove immediately, while driving I got a green light and was braking around the corner the car just cut out completely. Got it to a mechanic and they replaced the whole electrical system, issues never reappeared for another two years. 2010 only issue was it need a new transmission, so I put in a used one. Four months later, February I believe, this time it would not start at all and it was night time. Got it towed to the mechanic and the next day he called me, said nothing was wrong with it started right up.
Now we are here November 22, 2011 and the car has cut out on me twice in the pas week. The first time was a dark cold night, got it towed to the mechanic and started up the next day like nothing was the issue. The mechanic joked that it likes to play dead and it starving for attention. The second time it was in broad day light and it started about again 30 minutes later.
3 out 4 times my car cut it happened while applying the brake and from a short distance from where it was parked. Also note that during the night during the winter the battery light will have a light glow to it, also when purchased the owner put it a newer radio system, sometimes when the brakes are applied it will cut out, during the winter is when its more common.
After it happened a third time and the mechanics were stumped, I decided to go to a much reliable source.
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It happens randomly, there's no guarantee it'll happen every time. It's more frequent when turning right. I've told my dad about all this, but when he took it for service months ago, he said they said that it was normal (sounds fishy to me). So here I am now, the problem's still there, so I tell him and he decides to get new tires for the car. Those came, but they didn't fix it.
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On my truck, there is 2 wires from the low side pressure switch which mates to a socket with only 1 wire. I have 12 volts at switch terminal on dash control, and it seems that I have an broken wire behind the dash, as I can get it to operate again when I move the harness around. Where can I get a schematic of this part of the circuit?
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I have an '03 S60 - nonturbo with 239,000 miles. I've never had any performance problems with the car.
Here is the situation - The check engine light has gone on 3 times in about the last 2 months. It just happened for a fourth time today. Each time it's exactly, almost exactly the same distance from home, from a cold start on a hot day.
Same code each time. I don't remember what it was - something to do with the air mass meter - it was on the paperwork from the dealer that I can't find right now.
First time the code came on was two days after getting the air filter changed so I suspected they didn't assemble the air filter case properly. I brought it into the mechanic. They recommended pressure cleaning the throttle body and changing the air mass meter. I opted not to do it and they just reset the light.
Second time I remember putting oil and an oil additive in (Lukas oil) to top off the oil in the car before I left.
Brought it back to the dealer and when I spoke to the mechanic at the dealership.He said I could do the throttle body cleaning and change the meter, but that wasn't the problem. He warned of some sort of internal engine problem suggesting that an oil path from the top to the bottom of the engine is clogged and causing some sort of other ambiguous issue in the engine.
Btw according to the car computer it gets 31 miles to the gallon.
Third time- I topped the car off with oil (cheap 7-11 oil). I drove the same distance and the light went on.
The second two times the light went off on its own.
Fourth time just happened on a quick errand. Car had been sitting for about 3 hours since it last ran. When I ran it earlier today I didn't have the light come on.
I should note that several years ago (at about 180,000) the engine had some sort of check valve at the back of the engine replaced twice because it was whistling.(With the whistling the check engine light did not go on). The second time it was replaced they did an oil cleaning procedure that cleaned the oil path from the top to the bottom of the engine.
Is this really a devastating engine problem? What's going on?
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I have a 2003 Volvo XC70 with 87K miles on it. I have kept it serviced. For the last few years I have had an intermittent problem with the engine light coming on saying I am having engine performance problems, that I can (sometimes) alleviate by tightening the gas cap. I make a point of tightening the cap til it clicks when I fill up, so I don't know why this happens. Also, sometimes it happens and I can feel the engine slowing down.
It tends to happen more on very hot days when it has been sitting outside of my office building in the sun all day (there is no shade to park). I have a 10 minute ride home and by the time I am 5 minutes into the drive the light comes on. When I get home I pop the fuel lid and tighten the gas cap (even though it feels plenty tight) and by the next morning the light is often off . My dealer has no idea what is going on, but there is something wrong.
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She drove it to the store and came back home and shut it off. Within 5 minutes she tried to start it back up to move it and it won't start. When she turns the key, all dashlights come on, all gauges work and the engine is turning but won't start.
When the key is turned, I do not hear the fuel pump. But I've been told that in some vehicles you don't.
We removed the cover under the hood and took out the "plug" that said fuel pump (it was grey and had 4 prongs on it that plugged in) and switched it with another "plug" with the same numbers and it still does the same thing.
Hubby took of the black cover (think it was the breather but not sure correct name) and sprayed a little starting fluid and the Blazer started for a few seconds and would continue this until it burnt up the fluid. He looked down in this when I was trying to start it and he said that he couldn't see any gas being shot in it.
Could it be anything else besides the fuel pump?? Where is the fuel pump relay switch located and how can we tell if it is bad? I have no problem buying a fuel pump for my mom but I would like to know that it is going to fix the problem.
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We just bought a 2011 XC90 in Jan 2011. About a week ago we noticed that when you are using the brake and turning a corner there is a weird noise coming from the front end. It only does it at low speeds. It doesn't do it if you turn and you are not pressing the brakes. You can also feel it in the brake pedal as well. I hope this makes sense. We love this car and really don't want to regret that we bought it. Just really confused on how a 2 month old vehicle can be already making a weird noise.
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Low speed. As the vehicle decelerates or accelerates and is turning, a whine is emitted from , I think, the left front. It is intermittent, and today was not quite as loud as it usually gets. Guessing I should look for some rust build up. Volvo V50, 82000mi, 2005
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I have a weird issue - I think. I recently purchased a 2005 Volvo XC90 V8 with about 150k miles. The car runs great and is really in good shape. The one issue I have is that sometimes the car wont start. There is just a clicking noise when turning the key. This only seems to happen immediately after the car is stopped. If I wait 10-15 minutes the car starts up just fine.
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It sounds like a huge, happy cat in a tunnel when turning right and accelerating at the same time. It's an echoing whirring/purring sort of sound. What it could be? It also clunks in the rear with slight vibration. Could this be caused by an issue with the rear suspension or the engine mounts or something else?
Also, the locks seem to be possessed. When I try to unlock all the doors by pulling up on the driver's lock, the rest of the doors either unlock perfectly or lock harder, i.e.,all the passenger locks slam down and cannot be retracted. Sometimes the locks will either lock and unlock or lock and lock harder on their own while I'm driving.
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