Volvo - S60 :: 2002 Engine Shaking On Start Up Sometimes
Jun 4, 2013
My wife has a 2002 Volvo S60 that we share with ~165,000 miles on it now. In the last 4-5 years or so, it developed this problem of feeling like the whole engine is shaking when we start it up sometimes. It can go days or even a week where we don't have this problem and then all of a sudden it happens one morning or afternoon, or whenever without any rhyme or reason. While it's shaking, the lights on the dash go in and out with the shaking (going between dim and bright). What also happens right before the shaking sometimes is that the engine will rev itself, like its got a mind of its own, sometimes up to 2000 RPMs, like I am pressing on the gas pedal and holding it, but I'm not! It will stay revved up for a good 10 secs or so then come down on its own and proceed to shake. We usually turn the car off, then on again and it goes away. If it doesn't go away, then we repeat (off/on).
We've taken it to the dealer multiple times, including in different cities since we happened to move in the last few years to another city and still, no one can solve the issue. She swears it all started happening after we went a week without the gas tank lid after it got left off by accident after we pumped gas one time. I noticed it was missing definitely within < 7 days and got a replacement right away from the auto store. Not sure if that has anything to do with it?
The car otherwise still runs fine but we just never know when the shaking thing is gonna happen next. It can even happen on the highway when we are driving. You can be trucking along at 70 MPH or so and then ease up on the gas and we'll feel it in the gas pedal and the car...it will jolt and shake a little until we rev the engine above whatever speed we had decelerated to when the shaking started.
When the shaking has happened, I have gotten out of the car to examine under the hood and cannot see anything in particular, the whole thing is just moving like normal and shaking a bit and then eventually if you leave it long enough, it stops on its own.
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I have recently picked up this 2002 Ram 1500 quad cab and had the engine rebuilt because it was running rough. 2 weeks later After I'm driving for a bit, the engine starts shaking and feels like it losses compression and dies. It will not start for about 30 minutes and then it starts back up and I can drive for a few miles and it dies again. the longer it sits, the further I can drive. The head shop checked their work on the engine and could find nothing wrong with block or heads. they said the O2 sensors were clogged and replaced those for me. they also looked at the fuel filter and didn't see anything wrong with it.
I needed to know what direction to go from here.. Catalytic converter? Battery? Fuel Pump? I took the truck to the Service Dept at a Dodge Dealership... They checked it out and replaced the after-market O2 sensors with Factory O2 sensors and said it was running fine... As soon as We picked it up, it shut off again not 5 miles from the shop.. The service advisor tells me that his techs are scratching their heads on what could be the cause of this problem. I'm feeling that the problem lies in the fuel system somewhere, but not feeling confident in the dealer service to find my problem...
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I have a 2001 Volvo S60. I just got in it to go to the store and I swear it is possessed! My engine immediately began shaking and rumbling the idle went from very high to dangerously low. I cut it off and cut it back on. There was no rumbling but now it is idling very high close to 3.5 rpm when it does settle after a while if i even touch the gas a little it shoots right back up. My emission error message is showing but i have had it looked at a few times and they can't find anything wrong with the emissions system. Recently my transmission message came on and stayed on for a week or so but went back off before I could have it looked at and it never drove any different even when the light was on
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Have a 2002 Frontier supercharge nissan....in cold it is flooding out....blowing exhaust and knocking and shaking on start up. After it warms up and weather warms up during the day.....it well start up without the horrible knocking.......I am very good about oil changes and preventive maintenance. To date (in 2 months) the dealership has replaced: distributor, a distributor cap, injection throttle flush, spark plug and spark plug wires.... and it is still doing it....the cannot make it do the sound and blow smoke when they have my vehicle...... it is at shop now.....and they want more parts put in it.
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When I start my S60, it runs extremely rough and will eventually stall. I do this over and over . . try and put it in gear and it will go a bit, run very rough, and will stall out. After a few minutes, something kicks in and it runs perfectly. If I don't try to drive, and sit with it idling, it runs very rough and I have a difficult time getting the rpms up. Then, the engine will suddenly race for a bit and everything is fine. It is very periodic in nature, doesn't matter if the engine is cold or not. It can sit over night and be fine, or do it, I can run around all day without problems and then suddenly it decides not to start up and run. The temperature outside doesn't seem to be a factor.
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I own a 2002 Volvo S40 Turbo with the following problem. Every now and then the "Check Engine" light comes on. Then, when I turn the ignition off, the car shakes violently for several minutes. Last time this happened, I took the car to the dealer, and the computer diagnostics came up with this message: ECM-44 MISSFIRE, EMMISSION LEVEL, FAULTY SIGNAL INTERMITTENT FAULT. What is wrong, and how it can be fixed?
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My 1.4 petrol opel astra keeps misfiring every few weeks . When I turn it on the check engine light comes on and the engine shakes so much I can feel it in the steering wheel. When it does I take it out on the road and floor it in 2nd gear for a while and it settles down again for a week or two then one day I jump in and surprise surprise another misfire. It's just been serviced and had timing belt changed. Spent too much money on it in the last few months so I'm wondering if this could be one issue too many. What may cause this kind of constant misfire...
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I have a 2002 volvo S60 2.4T that I just had the check engine light come on so I pulled the codes and here is what I found,
PO403
PO611
P1378
P2623
So my question is what does this mean ? what is wrong ?
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My daugther 2002 Volvo V50 blow an engine because of the time belt slipped She had only had less than 75000 and was relgious about her mx checkups timely and by only Volvo Mechanics. She is a Service member in Gemany and the Germany dealer say there is nothing she can do. How to get this engine replaced or even credit for a new volvo. The Engine is gone and the mechanic said 7000 Euro. The car blue book at 9500 Euro.
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I have a 2000 Volvo S80 T6. I have been putting in premium gasoline ever since I got it about 5 months ago. The previous owner did the same. I called my mechanic and asked about regular gas vs premium gas. He said regular gas would do just fine. So about 4 days ago I took my car to a parking lot and had some fun in the snow. It was mainly just pulling the e-brake around corners. I hit a few snowbanks, but no visible damage to the car. Anyway, I was below a quarter of a tank (21 gal) and I filled it with regular. I drove it straight home after that less than a mile away. Now when I drive it above 40mph the entire car vibrates as a vibrating chair does. It is almost a shaking, even. At first I thought it was because of the gas, but after talking to friends, they think it could be an alignment issue due to my parking lot activities. I also just had to replace the transmission and brake lines about a month ago. What do you think is the cause and the actual problem with my car?
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So I've got the problem where the engine won't start when it's been driven a while. The engine cranks and starts, but the RPM retards/drops until it reaches 0 after about a second or two.
I've measured voltage to and from the fuel pump relay. It gets 12 volts and spits out 7.5 volts with ignition on and engine not running. This is the correct voltage, so I see no reason to suspect the relay being the culprit. Besides; I can feel the relay clicking and hear the fuel pump working when the problem occurs, meaning that they both should be working fine. That's the conclusion I've reached, let me know if you think I should investigate the relay more thoroughly.
This has led me to start thinking that the ECU is getting some bad input from one of the sensors monitoring the conditions of the engine, resulting in an incorrect fuel mixture.
The first sensor I checked was the coolant temperature sensor, which turned out to be quite correct - a couple of % lower than what the table says it should be. Could this have any effect?
What other sensors are sending important signals to the ECU, possibly contributing to bad fuel mixture? Air Mass? Air Flow? Oxygen Sensor? Are there any vaccuum hoses or idle valve components that could cause this behaviour?
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On a handful of occasions, when I start my 450H, there is a noticeable vibration that lasts a few minutes and goes away. It's usually happened on really cold days in Texas. This morning, it was very warm, it didn't vibrate but made some click sounds for several minutes. I'm still under warranty...
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My car shakes when I start the engine, and continues to shake, it doesn't matter what gear I'm in. It also smells like gas when I get out of the car. Since my check engine light is blinking, and with all I've heard on the show, next step is to to take it to a mechanic. My question is, would it be okay to drive it 5 miles to a mechanic, or should I have it towed? Someone said it may be a misfire, and to change the spark plugs?
2000 Honda Accord Ex 6 Cylinder 163K on the mileage....
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First off, vehicle is a 1993 Volvo 240, 5 speed with 131,000 miles
1) Temperature gauge is reading hot, but I believe it's running at a normal temperature. I read a few things discussing this issue. First off, a yellow wire that runs through the firewall becomes corroded (as do all Volvo wires of this age!) What exactly is this wire and what does it lead to? Could I just rerun that wire with possibly a thicker gauge? My dads an electrician so no worries with the wiring. More commonly, however; I read that the temperature compensation board fails and gives erratic readings! is this board expensive and how difficult is it to replace? I have experience with this dashboard because I rebuilt my odometer and installed a tachometer, that gives you my basic level of expertise.
2) My passenger side rear fog light won't work, a new bulb didn't fix the problem, what could it be?
3) My car shakes kind of vigorously while braking, especially at LOW speed!? I replaced front pads and rotors, what else could the problem be?
Volvo.jpg ( 2.19MB )
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I have a 95 Volvo 850 2.2 L (non-turbo.) I recently replaced the fuel pump, and filter. Now when I try to start the engine, it turns over and sputters before it dies. I let it sit for about 10 minutes and try again with the same results and the same with a longer wait time due to having to charge my battery. I have checked the fuel lines and they seem to be clear, up to the fuel rail. I also checked the plugs and although they need to be replaced, after sanding and re-gaping them, there is plenty of spark. The plug wires and distributor cap are fairly new, and the points look good. So the only problem I see as logical, is the fuel rail, pressure regulator, and injectors. I have bled the fuel rail at the shrader valve, and I am getting little to no fuel from it. I want to remove the injectors and rail, and check out the regulator along with the rest. But how do I tell if the regulator is good, and what is the best way to clean injectors so they will at least last till I can replace them with new?
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1997 Volvo 850 Engine Problem? My customer question is, during the times my customer drive, When my customer start the car & when my customer put it on drive, the engine shuts off. My customer was wondering what was the issue of the problem , ALLDATA 10.53 & what's causing it to happen.
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I have a 2012 Camry SE with about 30k on it. I've always been a huge Toyota fan but I've had some interesting things happen with my first new car that has me questioning quality. I've had a mouse nest in the cabin air filter with the dead mouse laying in the engine bay (not a toyota issue), a loud rattling exhaust/engine rattle when I start the car, and the common interior creaks that I've been reading about.
However I've noticed a noise coming from somewhere behind the dash, maybe the instrument panel area that has been very annoying. It occurs at highway speeds usually above 65mph and it's kind of like a quick tapping. Very faint but definitely noticeable.
Its not the sunroof because, unfortunately I have that issue also lol. It took me a while to narrow it down to behind the dash but that's as far as I can get because I can't search for it while I'm driving. I'm not very picky but I do like to drive in silence sometimes and listen to the sounds of the engine/tranny shifting (weird I know) but that dashboard noise has been ruining it.
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All the other cars I had before started better after being warmed up. My 2005 Impala starts perfect when cold first thing in morning but if I go somewhere quick and try to start-up the engine warm it fights it's self and car shakes and it's super rough start . So I figured it's the hot vapors in the engine so I Remove the oil cap and it starts better . What to do to start a warm engine .
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my wagon runs fine, but when i start the engine it makes a weird sound (the same sound you might here when a UFO zips by in movies)... also, the check engine light comes on and stays on throughout the duration of my trip... what could be wrong?...
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I have a 97 Volvo 850. A couple weeks ago, it stalled a half dozen times while starting. The engine would turn over, start, run for a few seconds, then stall. Before calling for a tow truck, I started it up again, and it ran. After idling for a few minutes, it appeared to run smoothly. We drove home without a problem. When I took it into the shop, of course it wasn't acting up. A little later, the technician called to say it acting up for him so he knew I wasn't going crazy. He took it back to the shop, and it acted up again for another tech. They have since put their instruments on the car but it refuses to tell them anything. The check engine light works. All pressures are to spec. The fuel filter has been checked as well as all fuel lines. The car has not acted up now for over a week. The shop still can't find the problem.
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When I start engine usually your dashboard light turn on, eng, seatbelts, etc. but that doesn't happens, but engines starts for awhile and than you see the volt indicator drawing negative. And after few minutes of running it dies and will not start, battery is dead, I believe there is a short circuit or a relay problem....
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