Volvo - S40 :: 2007 - Hard To Start When Cold / Headlights And Interior Lights Flickering
Mar 21, 2011
I've had my '07 Volvo S40 2.4i for almost a year. It has a little over 60K miles on it and is serviced regularly. Within the last 3 months, I've noticed some weird things happening occasionally:
-Trouble starting when cold (I understand this is pretty common with a lot of cars.)
-Headlights & interior lights flickering
-Going over "bumps" in road causing dash display lights to illuminate for a second, radio to shut off, and loud system "BEEP" comes through the speakers (this has happened 3 times total, all on the same day.)
-AC stops cooling periodically I've had the system scanned for the AC issue and it seems that there was a "Pump pressure" message that cleared itself at one point and am guessing the same thing has happened the next few times it's done this.
I also asked that the battery be checked to see if it needed to be replaced soon. The mechanic said the battery was fine and thinks it's something wrong with the entire electrical system.
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I recently purchased a 2011 Sonata GLS and I love it. However, I'm having a slight electrical issue.
While driving at night with the headlights on occasionally they'll dim and flicker and often cut off completely while driving or parked. The interior and dash lights will also switch off with the headlights, however the radio will still continue to play. The lights only stay off for a second and then come back on. Sometimes I can make them flicker and go off by turning on my blinker or switching between high and low beams.
I'm trying to figure out if it's a problem with the alternator, the battery, or the fuses and if this is a known issue.
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Past week I have noticed a flicker on all lighting (head/taillights, interior lights) on my '06 Sonata (4cyl). Seems to be an intermittent problem, as one time in three there is no flicker, and everything seems to be fine.
Yesterday, when pulling into my driveway, I momentarily lost all lighting/radio/fan for what seemed to me a full second and a half before everything "came back on".
I've checked fuses, battery cables (batty is new, 6mos)... Is this alternator related? What else should I be looking at? My Sonata has been bulletproof. No mechanical issues whatsoever....
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So today, I started my Lexus Ls600hl and the lights were flickering and the car wont start. Then on the Dash it has the yellow ! icon and the lcd says Parking brake not available.... The car wont start. I tried disconnecting the battery etc. nothing. Then i jumped the battery and got it to turn on, but it says parking brake not available - see dealer for information. But the car runs fine and everything now - But i don't understand the warning, the parking brake wont engage anymore. I will take it to the dealer tomorrow to see what's wrong.
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The last month or so, I have noticed that my dash board lights (red lights) and my actual interior lights that come on when you open the doors to vehicle will flicker sometimes...And it can get bad I guess and annoying. It's more of it pulsating really. I noticed today while driving home and I had the radio on loud it was doing it and I do not know if was just in my head that it was doing it more when the radio was loud or what, but this is ridiculous.
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I got the aftermarket lights through Yefeng, with quad HIDS. So after a while, Cluster lights, Vanity mirror lights, tail lights, cabin roof lights all started to flicker or strobe faintly. Very noticeable either when lights are on or off, drive or park.
Car has less than 12k miles.
I've been driving it like that with no problems. Except one morning before I left to work, car wouldn't start. (Happened randomly) Battery is good, alternator is good. Could something be pulling power from the alternator? I have no clue.
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Today while the drivers door was open the interior lights started flickering and then all interior lights went off. Looked at the manual and do not see interior light fuse or relay. Also while looking at the manual, the lights flickered a few times and I could hear clicking behind the steering column. They lights never came back on. The interior "roller" switch is in the correct position, its also does not turn on the interior lights. I have also lubricated all the latches. What can I check or do to troubleshoot?
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We have a 2009 S60 2.5T that has trouble starting in temps around 25 degrees and below. It skips/hesitates when cranking.
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I went to get in car today, and the driver screen, needles, and dash lighting was flicking or pulsing.. like a wave rolling through the lcd. its got 1k miles on it, jsw tdi.
i did open the trunk, without unlocking from fob, just trunk button, then it auto locked again when i shut it. have never done that before, so maybe this causes it? i let it sit awhile, and all back to normal.
on a side note, got my 20% tint on all around today and looking good need a drop then wheels.
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the flickering stopped after 10 mins and hasnt come back. is this an alternator problem or loose battery cables/ground strap?
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I have a 2006 F250 6.0L Crew Cab 4x4 that started acting up. It started two days ago when I noticed my windshield wipers were only working at one speed. Then today my wife took the truck to work and she said the radio stopped working on her way to work. Then she gets in this afternoon and the ABS light is on, the A/C isn't working, the windows are super slow and the interior lights are flickering. She isn't home yet so I haven't checked the fuse block. Where would you start looking?
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I have a 2002 Kia Optima. The headlights have been flickering as well as every light inside the car. When they're doing this, if I press on the brakes, everything fades out. Such as the radio, headlights get very dim, air conditioner fades out. The car almost comes to the point of stalling. I've had the alternator replaced but the problem continued. I have asked several mechanics but they are baffled.
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The other day my daughter's 07 FSI v8 would not start; no power other than interior lights: no instrument power, no seat power, etc. Assumed a dead battery. Hooked jumper-cables, the fan start running, the panel came alive, it cranks, yet the air suspension lock is stuck on, EPS off is stuck on, etc.; assumed a dead battery caused all of this, since the alternator is pegging 14 and we have had a long cold spell. We drive it to the dealer an hour away to get the battery replaced; they test the battery and say its fine; no problems with the computer check-out. They say it must have been a random event; or something ran-down the battery (which is impossible, since you can't leave anything on).
No issues a week later, except I noticed the check-engine and the EPC amber lights are on. However, since my wife brought it back from the dealer, I don't know if these are error codes that were never reset from the initial event or if they are new. Will have to go back to the dealer to reset; check-out. My theory is the fan stuck on for some reason (since it will run independent of the cockpit power) and the battery charged-up on the one-hour drive to the dealer, thus all seemed OK to the dealer.
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I will start out with a little history of the situation. A little over three months ago my original altenator died with over 200,000 miles on it. I took it in and had it replaced (they used a refurbished altenator) and about a 1-1/2 months later is when the issue started. The headlights and dash lights will flicker and whenever they dim, the volt gauge will go down.
When the lights come back to normal brightness the volt guage will also go back to normal. All this will go on for random lengths of time as I am driving. I took the vehicle back to where I had the altenator replaced and they replaced it again under warranty. About another 1-1/2 months went by and the same thing started happening. I took it back to the same garage and this time they put in a brand new altenator. Finally about a week after this last visit to the garage the symptoms came back.
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Ford Focus 2004 manual 150K miles. Most days the car runs fine. Other days it will start and run until it warms up, then stumbles or hesitates at speed. When this happens the headlights and dash lights are also flickering. Sometimes i hear a clicking sound behind dash, left side. I have the sure cure: turn the heater fan to high. This works every time. When the engine is hesitating, i turn the fan to 4-high, the engine smooths out. Turn the fan down, engine again hesitates. Hesitates at 3, worse at 2, worst at 1. It seems to need the extra load.
But after few minutes of high heater fan, the alternator light comes on. I flick the heater switch down, endure the hesitation for a few seconds, the alternator light goes out, engine still hesitating, flick the fan to high, engine smooths out. A few months ago i could get it to fun smoothly with the fan on 3, didn't need 4-high. Now seems to need 4.On the days when it is always running smoothly, the heater fan can be on any speed, the alternator light does not come on.
Next few days or even weeks the engine will run smoothly, no hesitation, with the fan on or off or any setting.
The car has been to three shops in past year, one of them a major Ford dealer, who kept it two weeks. The problem has been diagnosed as battery (replaced), Battery connections (checked), plugs (replaced), fuel pump controller (replaced), fuel pump (replaced - ouch!), alternator (replaced twice - ouch twice), grounds (checked). Every time they "fix" something the car runs ok for a week or so.OBD shows P2004 (intake manifold runner stuck) but all agree it can't be the problem.
There have been a few times when i flicked the heater fan to high that all the dash lights died, fan went off, headlights off, turn signals didnt' work, but the engine ran smoothly. Not so good on the highway at night!There have been a few time, not recently, when the car wouldn't start. No dome lights, no dash lights with key turned to ON, no clicking or starter with key turned to START. It acted as if my battery was missing. The cure was to turn the headlights on. All normal after that.
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I have been looking for a solution to a noise my 07 S60R GT has been making for about two months now. After a cold start there is a chriping/whistling noise that lasts a few minutes at idle. The noise will go away at idle but is constant under heavy load in any gear. The Volvo dealer told me it was the SNABB intake but the noise started well after I installed this with no noise initially. They said its not from sepentine belt or pulleys. It sounds as though its coming from the turbo area. Car still drives/pulls fine but makes shrieking / chirping / whistle when I get on it ( which is most of the time).
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Last Thrusday, my wife couldn't start my Sonata 2010 with 30,350 miles on it. It just clicked and sounded like a dead battery. She had to get a jump start through Hyundai road side service.
I change the battery yesterday (it only had 225 cranking amps) and immediately strange things started happening: lights flickering, engine surging, hard starting, not starting just clicking, gauge lights blink strangely at startup and when switching off ignition, not remembering odometer settings (I set my odo for MPG).
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The vehicle has 80,000kms, and from a cold start it is having this problem more and more frequently. I must crank the engine 3+ times, and then she starts. A prolonged cranking period doesn't seem to work, and this only occurs when cold. The car starts fine when warmed up. I have scanned the car with a generic OBD2 reader and there are no codes. Once the car is running, it runs great with no misfires.
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My 2007 Civic Hybrid is having trouble starting. This happens when it's cold out, it's been sitting outside overnight (I don't have a garage), and the IMA battery is low. I've taken it to the dealership but they were not surprisingly no luck. The car has about 65,000 miles and a new battery - the one in front - was put in not too long ago and tests fine.
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My white 96 is for sale...Parked it for two months and now no nothing.. It runs but thats it...fuse 12 no power...
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I started the car this morning, plugged the phone charger into the lighter socket, noticed the charger light wasn't on, pressed the charger in tighter, the car started to run funny, then it cut off. Lights work, radio won't work, all fuses are alright upon several visual inspections. Car wants to turn over but won't start. I tried disconnecting the negative battery cable to see if the car would revert back to "normal". I have never had a problem with this car in the two years I've had it; the battery was purchased brand new in November of 2011. I unplugged the cigarette lighter to see if that would work but nothing so far. Could it be the ignition switch?!
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