Volvo - S40 :: 2007 - Engine Whistle At Idle
Mar 28, 2011
My 2007 Volvo S40 T5 AWD has an engine whistle at idle, but it stops momentarily when I turn the stearing wheel left or right, then comes back. Whats up?
View 1 RepliesMy 2007 Volvo S40 T5 AWD has an engine whistle at idle, but it stops momentarily when I turn the stearing wheel left or right, then comes back. Whats up?
View 1 RepliesIt's a 96 850 Naturally Aspirated. There is a whistle sound (usually about one second in duration) when I let off the throttle.
Based on what I've been able to find out so far it is most likely at Vacuum line or a gasket somewhere in the intake line. The more common source of this is the Throttle body gasket but that doesn't seem to be the case.
I think the sound is originating on the left portion of the engine, somewhere between the oil cap and the timing cover.
Any good ways to test the vacuum lines or gaskets?
The title pretty much explains it. Coming home today started hearing a squeal/whistle while at highway speed - almost sounds like the brake wear indicator tabs that GM is so fond of. Thought it might be the brakes, but it didn't stop with brake application and continued after coming to a full stop. Also, surging at idle, which seems to be reduced when the A/C compressor is on. The squeal happens both with and without A/C.
View 1 RepliesFor three years now my 2001 Jeep Grand Cherokee Laredo will whistle. Usually when the engine is cold. When the vehicle is idling in the driveway or at stoplights, whenever I take my foot off the accelerator it will whistle too. The only time it won't whistle is when the gas pedal is being pressed. I've had it to a number of different shops to be serviced but once the car is inside or the engine is warmed it will never whistle for the mechanic looking at the vehicle. I've been told that it could be related to the IAC motor.
View 3 Replies2007 ES350. Recently, I noticed when I turn on my engine in the mornings it makes a whistle/squeak-like noise. It the sound continues and eventually fades away as I drive after a mile or two.
View 6 RepliesI have a 2000 V70/XC volvo with 95K miles. I began hearing a strange hollow noise, like a whistle blowing. I took it to the dealership where I bought the car and they said it was the fuel pump. I asked them if it was bad and needed to be replaced and the said they weren't sure about having it replaced right away. They said sometimes it will make that noise and the fuel pump could last for months and sometimes for years. They even suggested to just drive it until it fails then replace it. some say it could never go out. But it bothers me because it is the car that my wife drives daily taking kids around and running errands and so forth. I am always worried that she could get stuck somewhere anytime. So I am not sure what to do.
View 3 RepliesI have been looking for a solution to a noise my 07 S60R GT has been making for about two months now. After a cold start there is a chriping/whistling noise that lasts a few minutes at idle. The noise will go away at idle but is constant under heavy load in any gear. The Volvo dealer told me it was the SNABB intake but the noise started well after I installed this with no noise initially. They said its not from sepentine belt or pulleys. It sounds as though its coming from the turbo area. Car still drives/pulls fine but makes shrieking / chirping / whistle when I get on it ( which is most of the time).
View 1 RepliesA friend of mine has a 1989 240 I'm trying to get road worthy so he can sell it. After regapping, cleaning intake, cleaning idler, new sender, new in-tank fuel pump, and new MAF (all needed to be replaced) the engine still has issues accelerating from idle.
Did the usual diagnostics (#2, #6 LED flash modes). Even took apart the throttle body sensor to make sure that was functioning.
Idle is good and smooth. If I slowly open up the throttle the engine behaves well enough, but if I ope up the throttle to, say, 1/8th from idle the engine will hesitate POORLY. I can even make the engine die. I can drop the throttle to zero and rev back up fine so long the revs don't go down to idle. I made double-sure the throttle sensor clicks from the idle position (the sensor just has two spst switches to detect zero and high throttle).
Engine sounds fine otherwise. No problem opening up to full throttle once I get the revs a little above idle.
1986 volvo turbo. I am at my wits end with my car. I know very little about car repair and maintenance and that alone makes me enraged.
So my car is very old and has not been taken care of before I owned it. It did misfire at idle speed before but very rarely, now it seems that ever since I put more oil in the misfires happen way more frequently.
I put in a synthetic 10w 30 oil and the engine is way more quiet now and the gas mileage is slightly better...but ever since I put it in the misfires are frequent. I do not know if it is a vacuum leak or a spark plug problem, or if it has something to do with the oil
I have a 2001 Volvo S60. I just got in it to go to the store and I swear it is possessed! My engine immediately began shaking and rumbling the idle went from very high to dangerously low. I cut it off and cut it back on. There was no rumbling but now it is idling very high close to 3.5 rpm when it does settle after a while if i even touch the gas a little it shoots right back up. My emission error message is showing but i have had it looked at a few times and they can't find anything wrong with the emissions system. Recently my transmission message came on and stayed on for a week or so but went back off before I could have it looked at and it never drove any different even when the light was on
View 5 RepliesMy 1994 volvo 240 stalls at idle when the engine is warm. It's happening more frequently as the weather gets colder, I'm not sure if that's a coincidence. The car is an automatic and I'm wondering if it could be something as simple as low transmission fluid.
View 1 RepliesI've got an '88 Volvo 740 Turbo Wagon: 5-speed, 225K miles, that's been acting up over the last year. She doesn't burn oil (qt in 1500 typical) and appears to still be tight. The Turbo works and bearings make no noise. The engine service light does NOT glow (but I admit I haven't checked the bulb). I do have a Haynes manual and have been using it to assist with some results (see replaced items), but I'm not trained on this car and this manual is woefully lacking in good diags for some obvious things. (IMG: [URL] .....)
Symptoms: She cold starts OK, but try to restart warmed at all and she usually has to sit at least an hour or no go. Outside temp seems to make little difference. There's a gassy smell while cranking warm and it's very much like a flooded carburetor engine. Often, the engine will finally catch with the pedal floored after a long crank. Also, after warming and driving a few minutes, the idle erratically will not return to normal, sitting up at 1800-2700 RPM for a bit before finally calming down. It was also running a little rough. There's a fair amount of carbon at the exhaust pipe and MPG is only ~20 and I'm a light foot. The idle RPM varies a bit much moving around between 600-1100 RPM warm.
What I've done this year: It had a broken thermostat (replaced), failing alternator (replaced), failed starter (replaced), failing fuel pump (replaced with filter), recent oil change (has turned black after 800 miles). Most grounds around engine and firewall and 12 volt ignition contacts cleaned. The bat cables were cleaned and terminals coated. Ohm tested the injectors OK (all exactly the same, on spec) and they all "click" in operation. I replaced a bad coil (low ohms by 20% for both primary and 2nd) and changed the carbon fouled plugs (which were also ill-gapped by some hamhand), both of which worked for the roughness considerably. The plug wires all came up roses well under 10k ohms. The battery was a suspect for testing low so much when resting, but the alternator seems to have slowly fixed that (and problems come when system is charging OK). However, the main warm start and idle problem persists. (IMG: [URL] ....)
My next good guess: An obvious rich condition exists and, having eliminated quite a few other things, a sticking "Air Control Valve" seems the likely suspect (some call it an idle control valve but I'm going by the manual). My specific observations of this device: after a warm no start, I pulled the ACV electrical lead and she fired right up and idled well at 16-1800 RPM. I plugged it back in and she chugged and nearly died before idling ~800 RPM. As it idled normally, I pulled the rubber hose from the upstream air connection to the ACV and it chugged and died within 5 seconds. I noted the vacuum was very strong. Putting the hose on, it wouldn't restart till I removed the electrical lead again. The ACV circuit has continuity at the device but I haven't ohm tested it yet. My best diag is the mechanical part of the ACV is gummed up or worn out. The Haynes manual was almost no way in arriving at this conclusion. (IMG: [URL] ....)
I've been all over the place trying to get this pulley sounding noise figured out. the noise is definitely not the pulley, but is coming from that side, and from underneath the engined towards the back. this noise only occurs when car has been driven at least 30 minutes to an hour from first start of the day, but then continues the rest of the day. the noise also only occurs when I am coming to a stop or just rolling at a low idle, and then only lasts for about 30 seconds and goes always until i give it so gas and the noise comes back.
I know its sounds a lot like PVC, but i have had all that checked and actually pvc replaced. Took it to another VW dealer, and they charged me for diagnostics, and came up with it the noise was coming from somewhere in the clutch, and want to replace the whole clutch, that was just replaced by them 20,000 miles ago. You would think if was coming from the clutch it would make the noise at all times. Do you think it could be the clutch in any way?
Installed the GFB DV+ noticed a bit of a whistle at idle after installation? You can't hear it inside the car, but if you have it idling and step out, you'll notice it if you have it. It's almost like a vacuum cleaner in the distance, it's not very loud.
View 4 RepliesWhile my wife was re-parking my 2007 S60 this morning (currently at 73,143 miles), the error message "Reduced engine performance" came up.
She had switched-off the engine before calling me on the phone to report it, else i would have told her to rev the engine to see how far the rpm gauge could go.
While checking through the error on google, noticed there were several complaints on this in the past but could not see any inferences on what was done to resolve this except for guys who mentioned repeated visit to dealership.
When she switched-on the engine again, the error message didn't come up and she could rev the engine up to 6500rpm, i intend using the car for a long journey next week and do not want any breakdowns.
I have a 2007 XC90 3.2 RWD with around 112,800 miles.
On acceleration, there is a rattle (not a valve knocking) that gets quieter once a steady cruise is achieved. At idle in gear, a very quiet rattle can be heard. When transmission is slipped into neutral, the rattle goes away. The engine shifts normally, accelerates normally and gas mileage is steady at around 20.5 mpg (mixed city and highway). I am using 93 octane gas. This week the check engine light came on.
Got my Accent on June 30th, has 8500km on it already and I love my car.
Recently, I've noticed a sound coming from the passenger side when stopped at lights or when I've just parked. Best description would be a bit like a crackle (liquidy/whistly type of sound). Only happens when the A/C/defogger is on.
It's not very noticeable, I only hear it when I don't have the radio on, but it's been bothering me. I found a few posts about a rattle, but from what I can remember, it's not really a rattle.
I took my car to the dealer two days ago. The idle was rough, it stall twice and I had a CEL.. They change two high pressure fuel sensor and now the car run fine.
But now I hear a disturbing whistle sound when accelerating. The sound is audible from inside the car but louder when the window are down. This is my third turbo car and this sound as no comparison to the sweet whistle of my 1.8T for example.
I opened the hood to check if something was loose, in fact the main clamp from the inlet pipe to the engine cover was loose so I remove the engine cover assembly to check if the tech didn't forgot something else. Everything looked fine, I put everything back together and I hearing this annoying whistle again...
My 2011 ES350 has 49k miles on it (just got it last week).
I just noticed that when moving slowly (with and without accelerating) I can hear a slight whistle sound that resembles a bird chirp coming from what I think is a wheel.
My dad can't hear the sound (I'm thinking the frequency is too high for his ears) but it is definitely there and I can hear it clearly.
The sound comes and goes but something is not right. Wonder what it is?
2007 F-350 4X4 King Ranch... I have the 6.0 diesel. I am on the road to Houston, Tilden and San Antonio TX, and I am noticing a whistle on acceleration. I can change the tone by how hard I push down on the accelerator. I thought it was a radio issue and turned the radio off and got no change. Turned the a/c off, no change. Down hill or coasting, nothing.
View 3 RepliesWhen accelerating I hear a whistle noise from the engine after 4k rpm. The whistle noise becomes higher as the rpm increases.
Stock 08 3.6 22k miles