Volvo - S40 :: 2005 - Hesitation And Bucking - Negative Battery Cable
Mar 30, 2013
Dealer is telling me I need a fuel pressure sensor. I was hoping it would be the PEM which is still under the extended warranty. Is the sensor and the PEM one and the same? By the way, 99% of the time the car runs normally. Assuming the sensor and the PEM are different, could the sensor flat out totally fail at any time?
Dealer is suggesting to replace the negative battery cable!! I remember replacing old cables in my old cars, admittedly many decades ago for a few bucks. Even considering that it is a different world now, can a cable cost that much. Dealer is asking Volvo to consider the sensor as warranty or to participate because I had complained about hesitation more than once starting about five years ago, but they found nothing at that time. My complaint is still in their computer system.
2005 Volvo s40 t5
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We have a 2009 BMW X5 with an AGM battery that leaked and damaged the negative cable. We don't know what caused this, and we're concerned it might be due to a problem with the battery sensor, voltage regulator, alternator, or electronic system/software. The dealer says there's no way to tell, and that "batteries just leak." However, we pointed out that BMW's online marketing info states that "The acid cannot leak and damage the battery housing." Based on this express warranty, the BMW dealer refunded us the cost of the new battery, cable, and labor. However, since we've read that battery failure is rarely due to the battery itself, but rather a symptom of some other problem, we're concerned.
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I'm working on a 95 Explorer, and I need to know where the end of the negative battery cable should be bolted to. Right now, it's hooked to a bolt on the back of the starter. That just doesn't sound right......
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My car has been having an issue with battery draw. when I don't drive it for 2-3 days the battery is drained enough for me to need my jump pack to start it. I have done a wire tuck on the motor and also have air ride. I hooked a wire up between the battery and the negative cable with a light connected and it lights up with the car off. What I have done so far is to pull each fuse in the door fuse panel individually and the light stayed on the entire time. Next I pulled the power feed to my air ride system out and the light flashes and I can hear what sounds like a relay clicking. If the issue were the air ride I would think disconnecting it would make the light go out.
I need to pull the fuse panel that was on top of the battery and pull those fuses out too. Should I try pulling the relays as well?
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Over the past year or so I have noticed that when I press the clutch on my 1985 CJ-7 258 that the headlights would get brighter. This happens when driving or just sitting at an idle. This happens only after you press the clutch enough to take up the usual 1/2-1 inch of play in the clutch pedal. When you release the pedal, the lights dim slightly. Another thing that may be related---over the past few months, it has been a bit sluggish to start until, finally, it wouldn't start at all. I looked at the battery and the cable connector on the negative battery pole is partially melted and ran down onto the top of the battery. What the problem might be? I'd hate to get a new battery and just have the same thing happen again.
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I have a 2005 XC90, 2.5T with about 210K miles.
The issue began while driving at about 70mph on the highway. The car acted like it was running out of gas, skipping and hesitating. After getting off the highway the issue persisted. Accelerating from a stop caused the car to once again act like it was running out of gas sputtering and lurching. The CEL came on and it stalled once before getting to an AutoZone. The codes came back as P2177 (too lean off idle bank 1) and P0089 (fuel pressure regulator).
I limped home and parked the car for a few days to check out my options. After a few days the car drove perfectly with no issues. But the issue returned the same as before within a few more days. So here's what I've done thus far....
1. Replaced the fuel pressure sensor (no change)
2. Replaced spark plugs (no change)
3. Replaced fuel filter (car ran perfectly for a few weeks, self clearing the CEL)
4. Ran some Seafoam cleaner through a tank of gas (car continued to run fine)
5. A few days ago the issue returns, same as before
6. Cleaned MAF (no change)
After replacing the fuel filter and running the Seafoam it ran great. Then all of a sudden it's doing the exact same thing again.
I've scoured the web for more info but come up empty handed. My thoughts now lean toward the following...
1. Leak in the turbo system or TCV issue
2. Bad injector(s)
3. Bad coil(s)
4. Failing fuel pump
5. Random O2 sensor freaking out
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While reinstalling my battery after working on my 94 sentra my negative battery cable melted my negative terminal.
I installed the positive first then went to do the negative and huge spark/smoke and I see my terminal melted on the one side.
What might be causing this?
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I replaced the 12v battery this morning with an Optima, as some here suggest. No problem, but the strap on the Optima is touching the negative connector wire. I tried squishing the battery strap under the metal hold-down bar but that doesn't work.
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Searched but did not find. Just bought a 2015 Accent hatchback. Only issue I have had is a lean bucking of the engine if you don't have enough throttle (RPM). From a standing start, the auto trans will shift from 1st to 2nd to 3rd very quickly if you are going real slow. I have to give it at least 1/4 throttle and accelerate quickly to keep the trans from shifting too soon. So far I have 2000 miles and 1 oil change, running 93 octane gas. Is this condition normal?
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I have been experiencing this one for quite a while now. The car is a 2003 GTI VR6 24v. It is stock other than a 3" hole in the bottom of the airbox to pull in cooler air.
When I am sitting in traffic, and in 1st or 2nd gear, keeping a consistent speed (10-15mph) and application of the throttle (not moving my foot at all), the car sometimes just decelerates/hesitates/bucks a little by itself, and kind of feels like it is hiccuping or not getting enough air or something.
At high rpm, or in any gear above 2nd, I don't feel the hesitation and the engine runs great and pulls hard. No MIL lights on the dash, and no other problems with it.
Is this normal for manual VW's? Or maybe the hesitation coming from the engine not getting a consistent airflow from the hole in the airbox?
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I took my car in for a clutch install, everything was fine except the clutch slipping. I go to pick up my car and once the car warmed up it started bucking / limp mode while accelerating. Take it back to the mechanic and he thinks he didn't reset the throttle body. So he says that should be it and I pull away. Same thing. Leave it with him again and he replaces with "diag" coils and new plugs. Leave again, same thing. He tells me to get totally new coils and try that. I am thinking its a missed ground cable or messed up ECU or something. During all this not one code it thrown.
20th GTI 1.8T 6 speed, stock clutch, all stock
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I've replaced all (3) ignition coils, both O2 sensors, wires and plugs, air filter, fuel filter...Also experience some missing at low rpms as well...not sure what the problem is?
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When I am on the highway, my 2005 Excursion (6.0) will hesitate/sputter/buck intermittently, usually between 70-80mph/ 1800-2200 RPM, but especially triggered by hills and inclines. Each sputtering episode usually lasts about 5-10 seconds and then will go away for minutes at a time. Does not sputter upon take off or initial acceleration. There is no smoke of any kind. Just got it out of the shop where the mechanic replaced ALL 8 injectors and the fuel pump, as well as flushed the fuel lines, and new fuel filters, and oil change (2 injectors were bad, but there was metal in the fuel filters, so to be safe I replaced all of them - ALL OEM PARTS for everything, including filters).
The week before, I had the IPR valve replaced. Also, recently had the back pressure sensor replaced and the EGR was deleted - and turbo cleaned when the EGR was deleted last month. I also tried unplugging the ICP sensor to make sure that wasn't the issue. Dropped $6k into this thing in the past month and about to lose my mind (and wallet). All research points to either clogged EGR or bad fuel injectors, but both have been addressed, so I am not sure where to look next. No current codes showing up. No signs of leaking oil.
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Have just about 1,600 miles on tuck born on 12/14/11. Love it, but.. When going slow in subdivision I am getting some hesitation/bucking when going in the upper 20s/lower 30s. When I feel it I look down and I am usually in 3rd. Is this the transmissible thing? When it happened Sunday it felt like it was going to die. If I start off with a quicker start (to get to highway speed) it shifts fine. It just started the last few weekends......
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Removing the negative battery cable piece that connects the cable to the terminal. Where I can get the screw that tightens the connector around the terminal.
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I had to swap in a new battery the other day, and I noticed that the positive terminal connector is broken. I don't really want to pay >$100 for a new cable right now, so any success story about splicing in just a new terminal ring or using one of the generic battery cables?
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I am installing a wiring harness in my 2007 Camry SE so that I can tow a small flatbed utility trailer I have to carry my kayak on trips. I have the wiring harness all installed except for I now have to route the power cable for the harness from the trunk to the battery in the front of the car. The instructions give no suggestions on how to get the wire to the battery other than to avoid hot parts and suspension parts.
What would be the best and easiest way to get the wire to the front? I'm not well versed in car mechanics or how to take things apart so I would prefer the easiest, most direct way if there is one.
I have already found a grommet in the trunk with a factory wire harness going through it to the bottom of the car so I can route my wire through there, but after that where to go next. The only thing I can think of is there is several brackets holding the 2 fuel lines and the 2 rear brake lines, there is a open spot between the 2 fuel lines so I could use the empty spot in those brackets to hold the wire for most of the way to the front, do fuel lines get hot at all? Do you think it would be safe to route the wire that way?
As for getting into the engine compartment, how to do that without getting in the way of the front suspension while keeping the wire away from the transmission and axles.
If this is too complicated to do myself, my dad has a friend who is a electrician and likes to restore cars that could do it for me but he is almost always busy, thus hard to get a hold of and I like to try and learn some things about my car and do as much as I can on my own.
This is the trailer light wiring harness I have, there is a link for the instruction manual there too
[URL]
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A friend of mine has a 1989 240 I'm trying to get road worthy so he can sell it. After regapping, cleaning intake, cleaning idler, new sender, new in-tank fuel pump, and new MAF (all needed to be replaced) the engine still has issues accelerating from idle.
Did the usual diagnostics (#2, #6 LED flash modes). Even took apart the throttle body sensor to make sure that was functioning.
Idle is good and smooth. If I slowly open up the throttle the engine behaves well enough, but if I ope up the throttle to, say, 1/8th from idle the engine will hesitate POORLY. I can even make the engine die. I can drop the throttle to zero and rev back up fine so long the revs don't go down to idle. I made double-sure the throttle sensor clicks from the idle position (the sensor just has two spst switches to detect zero and high throttle).
Engine sounds fine otherwise. No problem opening up to full throttle once I get the revs a little above idle.
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Have 2014 XC-90 w/10k miles. Problem is sporadic (has happened approx 10-15 times over past year).
From standing stop (stop light, etc) -- press on accelerator and VERY LITTLE to no acceleration. Engine continues to run smoothly -- no indication of fuel starvation, no roughness --- just no acceleration. It does NOT appear to be transmission oriented because when it finally "kicks in" there is no feeling of transmission shifting or wild tach movement (to indicate that there was a changing of the gears, etc). I get things back to "normal" by pumping the accelerator (usually a reflex action because the are vehicles behind me wanting to "go"). VERY disconcerting issue.
Local Volvo dealer says "cannot find any error messages", etc. My only complaint with the car -- second XC-90 and 5th Volvo.
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I replaced a battery on a 1998 jeep grand Cherokee v6. It started and ran fine, but then in my infinite wisdom, I decided to remove the negative battery cable with the engine running to test the alternator. Some smoke started coming from the back of the engine, so I immediately killed it. It wasn't running for more than 5 seconds. When I started it again, it faltered, but the second time it started fine and ran fine, a little more smoke came out but stopped soon. it smelled like burning oil. We drove it around the block with no problems. I know it wasn't the alternator that was smoking because that's not where it was coming from, and I doubt it was the ecu because then it wouldn't run.
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When I dropped my 2 frame rail batteries I noticed the clamp on the positive battery cable was broke. How to splice in a new clamp?
Pick and pull is an option. I would rather repair my OEM cable and be done.
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