2005 volvo s40. I have what sounds like a clicking/ticking noise that seems to be coming from the driver side rear wheel. The faster i accelerate the more rapid the ticking becomes. However when i brake the noise goes away for the entire time im braking. What could be causing this noise?
View 2 RepliesRecently picked up a 05 GLI with the bbs wheels. Last night i was driving into my parking garage and noticed a clicking noise comming from the back left wheel.
I lifted the car on that side and spun the wheel but it didn't make the noise. But once i set it back down and rolled the car the click came back. So i'm guessing it has something to do with pressure being applied to the wheel.
I just bought a 2007 LS460 with 90K miles on the clock. It replaces my 2006 LS430, which I loved, but it was getting long in the tooth.
So far, I have fixed the wind noise issue on the pass. side and the only remaining issue is this clicking in the driver rear wheel when the forward or reverse load is first applied.
So, to explain, every time I come to a stop or go from forward to reverse, I hear one or two clicks once I apply the gas. It sounds like some metal part is settling in place. The sound is not there once under way and there is no other noise at all.
The shop I went to spent couple of hours looking for the cause, listening with mechanics stethoscopes, feeling by hand, while the car was in the air with the wheel off and came up with either a rear hub or rear axle on its way out. It is hard to pinpoint the exact source because the click or metal ping is transferred to all the metal components of the assembly and there are plenty of them there.
I have an 04 WRX, I've upgraded the suspension (1.5" - 1.75" drop front and back respectfully) and have a full set up of strut tower braces. Recently when accelerating from a stop, I get a clicking noise from the passenger front wheel area, I hear it all the way through first, second, and most of third...the sound is probably present after that but my exhaust drowns it out. My first choice of problem is that the CVs have gone, the car has 140k on it...
View 2 RepliesI have the annoying "clicking noise" with my certified used 2008 Avalon XLS. It only occurs after the car has been sleeping overnight or after five hours or so of not the running. So this is normal according to two dealers and that I need to watch it but it isn't an issue- normal. Still, it does not leave me feeling good about it. The car has 56k miles and it is smooth, quiet and responsive, just that "ticking". It does go away after 15 minutes or so of driving. They told me why it's happening and I found some answers here, on the forum.
My question is- will it get worse? Will Toyota only address it when the "ticking" gets loud and does not go away and I'm pushing smoke from the tail pipes?
I've been reading up on the LSC 90K recall with the defective VVT-i oil line. How can I find out if my Avalon has had the oil line replaced? Just a bit confused about if any records should exist for this and where I can find out.
I bought a new 2011 Outback about 3 weeks ago, and I have around 1500 miles on it.
A couple days ago I started noticing a clicking noise near the right-front wheel area whenever I turn for the first time after I start the engine (releasing handbrake, shift to Drive, etc). This happens only one time per drive, and mostly after I turn to the right for the first time. After hearing that sound, the next time I will hear it is only after I park and shutdown the engine and restart.
I have a '98 Suburban 4WD, last week I started hearing a clicking noise when I go in reverse. Sounds like it is coming from the rear axle area. I don't hear the sound when going forward.
View 3 RepliesI've got a 2008 santa fe limited 3.3 awd with about 170000 km on it. Lately when I brake I've been hearing a clicking noise coming from what sounds like the driver side front wheel area.
Had it in to my mechanic who checked the brakes and said that pads/calipers/rotors were all fine. They replaced the passenger side front bearing on the lower control arm a few weeks ago and said there is no play or noise coming from any other suspension components.
Where to look next? My mechanic isn't sure what it is so I was going to take it to the dealer and see if they can fix it. Also had new tires installed about a month ago
I replaced both 1/2 axles last week after one CV boot pretty much disintegrated. Since it is a 2005 Acura TL with 146K miles, I changed both axles completely. BTW - I had NO forewarning, noises, etc. before the axles died last week! I only perceived an increase in road noise, but did not hear noises squeaks, thumps, clacks, etc.!) The first day I drove the car after the new axles, I noticed a thump, thump, thump from the right wheel area when I made a sharp, slow turn out of my driveway. It only happened once, but it was a quick trip.
The next day, I noticed it again as I pulled out of my driveway and later as I pulled into a parking spot. There are no other symptoms and it only occurs when the wheel is turned to an extreme (80-90 degree) at little to no speed. I tested it in an empty parking lot - slow circles in either direction will cause the thump, primarily coming from the right wheel area. I immediately drove to the repair shop and made an appointment. Why I'd develop a new thump immediately after getting new axles? I'm thinking something isn't right with their installation. Of course, they say nothing is wrong with what they did - the problem now is that I need stabilizer links?! Sounds like BS to me - why all of a sudden do I need BOTH stabilizer links immediately after repair work?
Tried searching, but all I found were links to fan noise in rear seat area. Yesterday my wife was in the garage and heard a fan-like noise in the right rear wheel well. The car had been parked for a couple of hours after a trip to the doctor's office. I could faintly hear it inside the cargo area when the 12v battery is located, but it was more pronounced outside. I got the key, started the car and the noise stopped and hasn't returned. I have no problem taking it in to have it checked, but I thought I'd check here before I did that in case it's normal. It's intermittent, so I don't know how easy it will be to diagnose.
View 6 RepliesI have a new 2016 ES350 and I hear a strange electric motor type sound coming from the LT rear wheel /wheel well area when the car is off (was parked outside and was turned off 5 hours before I noticed the noise). I couldn't figure out what was making the noise, it lasted about 3 minutes after I noticed it before it stopped.
View 2 RepliesI purchased a 2010 Escape Hybrid last October. Within a month it would occasionally make knocking noises from the speaker area above the right side (passenger) rear wheel well. It took several visits to the dealer before this noise would "perform" for them. They thought it was the amplifier, so they disconnected the amplifier...it still did it. So they replaced the amplifier ... it still did it, but it changed pitch and frequency.
I have made videos of it for them since it is so erratic it is hard to get it to do it for them. It will go days, weeks or even months without doing it, and then do it consistently for days and weeks. It seems to do it most when the weather is around 40-60 degrees and often when it is damp ... although this is not always the case. It will do it after you turn the car off for up to 30 seconds ... It will do it when you first start the car before you move.
By the way ... my son in law swears it is the little circular thing in the center of a speaker that vibrates back and forth with sound that is "popping". I suggested that to the dealer and they said that would be really surprising ... I told them that whatever it is its going to be surprising!
I have a 2005 Avalon Limited. A couple of weeks ago I put the car in reverse and I started hearing this loud buzzing noise coming from the rear window area. I narrow it down to the rear window sunshade. It also makes this noise when pressing the button to lower the shade and maybe sometimes rising it. I know it has something to do with the relay or motor when the signal is sent to it to lower it, because a lower the shade signal is sent when the car is put into reverse or button is pushed. How to find the motor or relay without taking the rear seat out. Right now I would rather just disconnect it to stop the annoying buzzing noise. Where can I find a service/maintence manual to maybe find out how to disconnect it.
View 14 RepliesHappened to go down to garage to get something from pip about 3 hours after charge was complete and noticed loud hum coming from right rear wheel well area.
We had not had any lightning storms, electrical interruptions or anything odd; house is on whole house surge protection, and 240v evse has been working fine.
Hum disappeared when car was booted up in ev for a moment and then turned off. Hasn't come back on in an hour.
I have noticed a randomized clicking sound coming from under my steering wheel around the pedal area. It sounds electrical, not mechanical.
View 8 RepliesMy car is 2 months old. About one week ago, I began hearing a subtle clicking sound when turning the steering wheel fatter than 45 degree on either side. At first I thought it came from the turning signal mechanism doing "double clicks" since it sounded merely the same albeit being a bit quieter, but now I think it emanates from just behind the steering wheel.
Since then the problem got worse, not louder but more frequent. Maybe its just me being more aware and looking for it, I don't know. Also this weekend I changed my set of wheels for 18" with low profile tires, coming from the stock 16" vw mags. May not be related since the problem started before I changed the wheels, but since it got worse.
I've recently noticed that on my 2005 Gen 2, after starting the car, the first few miles I drive produce a gentle metallic rhythmic scraping sound coming from the right rear wheel.
It's only audible when driving at low speeds (<30 mph), and seems to disappear after the car has been driven for a few miles. But when I start the car fresh the next day, it has reappeared.
The rate of the scraping noise varies directly with the speed I'm driving. I think it only happens when I'm coasting (in Drive), and possibly also when I'm braking.
My guess is something is slightly misaligned or rusty - a disc brake? And the noise "disappears" when the metal gets warmed up?
I have a 2005 Ford Ranger Edge 4x4. 4.0, 5 speed. Pretty bare bones truck. On the 4th, my truck was fine... Good deal. On the morning of the 5th, I had a no start issue. No crank, no lights, nada. Figured it's the battery as the one in it was in there when I got it. Got a new one and dropped it in. No difference. This morning I drove me other truck and when I tried to start it this morning I got a clicking in the lower passenger side area. The dash is dark except for the battery and airbag lights, and they're really really dim. This is my newest to me truck and one before this was a 74 Chevy. So computer ones are not my strong point at all.
View 14 RepliesI'd like to pin down the issue before dismantling the whole thing.
So my XC90 started creating noise very much like this video (note: this is not my vid) [URL] .....
The car recently got most commonly problematic suspension parts replaced to no cure to the noise.
Mechanic said that it is the steering rack but can't tell what exactly is making the noise.
Last night returned from three hour trip in my 1994 volvo 960 station wagon and there was a loud whistle type noise from engine area, this morning started car and the noise is gone. I have not driven car yet? I just drove car a few miles yikes whats up ! constant alarm type noise from top rear area of motor !
View 1 RepliesMy trusted Volvo mechanic can't figure this out. Shortly after starting my car, there is a clacking noise that seems to be coming from an area near the glove compartment. It lasts for several minutes and then stops. There doesn't seem to be anything wrong with the car. I've had it serviced, but can't figure out what causes this noise.
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