Volvo - S40 :: 2001 - Getting Error Code P0128 And P0420?
Oct 9, 2013
So i've had this volvo for about 6 months now.I knew when I purchased it that the two codes being thrown were p0128-Engine coolant temperature, and p0420- Cat efficiency Bank 1.Inspecting mechanic said it needed a new cat to clear the p0420....I went ahead replaced the thermostat and changed the coolant to "fix" the p0128, and cleared the codes, I think the jiffy lube state inspector did not notice the that the catalytic converter test was Incomplete when he passed it. Lucky me I guess.
But now I know that I'll probably have to fix before it gets inspected again. Eventually the p0128 came back on, so I went and got a new ECT sensor. Still doesn't clear the p0128. What am i missing? Coolant temperature sits at a 3'oclock position pretty regularly and quickly. Where to start on the p0420 besides understanding its the Pre-cat o2 sensor that is throwing the code, is there anyway that these are related?
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I keep getting the error code P0420. Cat below threshold.
I have replace both the front and rear O2 sensors and we reset the check engine light. While driving through the cycles to reset the sensors for them to be ready for DEQ, the check engine light came on again.
I am about ready to buy the Cat Converter, but it is really expensive and if there are any other things that I can try before replacing the Cat I would like to try that first. Any other issues associated with that code, or should I just replace the Cat Converter as my next step.
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Just picked up a 2005 with 146k and full Toyota service history, although seems a steering recall was not done. Will run it to the dealer today to check. I need to decide a.s.a.p. if I am keeping the car or not (I know the seller, he will take it back)
Anyway to cut a long story short, two questions.
1) Car had P3190 and P0420 when I got it. Seller reset, drove home and within 5 minutes on the road the CEL was back on. Checked the codes at home and see only a P0420. Much to worry about? Seems this might be big (Cat) or small (O2). Car getting great mileage - 60mpg at 60mph and it seems to be running great. Should I worry or forget about it? Note I am in Florida with no inspections.
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I have a 2002 GTI 337, 1.8T and I get the faulty code P0420 insuf.cat flow?? ... it is a way arround it
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So I bought a used 2005 Prius back in August it had 88,000 miles on it and was out of warranty. But I had a full inspection on it and the car was in great shape. Well, after a few months of driving, I got the P0420 error. I took it into my mechanic who cleared the code and told me to call him if it came back on. It came back on, then I cleared it myself, and it came back on again. So it was confirmed that I had a bad catalytic converter.
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I just bought a 03 2.0 and ive been trying to fix her back up, she is almost there, just waiting on my first gear getter from diesel geeks and trying to figure out why these codes (p0420 and p0141) keep coming back on. Originally it was just a p0420 code so i took out the upstream sensor and cleaned it, then i took out the backstream and after examining it figured it should be replaced.
I went and bought a new one and replaced it, within the next 2 days the check engine light came back on throwing the original p0420 code along with p0141 this time. So i took out the new down stream 02 sensor and took it back to autozone and they swapped it out with a new one for me free of charge. So i put the newest 02 sensor in and then within 2 days, both codes p0420 & p0141 came back on. Two 02 sensor heating wires being bad i feel is a pretty slim chance. What is possibly the cause for these two codes repeatedly being thrown?
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My '03 XC90 T6 starts right up when cold. It runs fine when hot. but now I have an engine light and these two OBD codes: P0420 & P0607
What would cause this hard starting.
And if I open the hood on the car for about 1/2 hour in the cold, it starts right up. Otherwise, it just cranks and cranks. Fuel rail seems to be getting fuel b/c when I'm cranking the engine then I turn the key off (not started), the fuel line has pressurized fuel in it.
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I keep getting the same code for the check engine light of P0128. I have replaced the thermostat twice and the ECT sensor already. I do know know what else I can do for getting this fixed. I have checked the fans and they are working correctly. I have also checked to make sure there is nothing wrong with the head gasket. My car does not over heat, but it does take forever for the temperature gauge to rise. This is for a 2006 Hyundai Elantra. What else I can do?
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On my 2002 (AVH) 2.0L 4cyl Jetta I have a persistent P0420 error code: "Catalyst System Efficiency Below Threshold"
I changed the oil, cleaned the Mass Airflow Sensor, replaced the coolant, thermostat, and coolant temperature sensor. But it's still showing up.
OBDII says it could still be:
A damaged or failed oxygen sensor (HO2S)
Downstream oxygen sensor (HO2S) wiring damaged or connected improperly
Damaged or leaking exhaust manifold / catalytic converter / muffler / exhaust pipe
Retarded spark timing
The oxygen sensors in front and behind the converter are reporting too similar of readings
Leaking fuel injector or high fuel pressure
Cylinder misfire Oil contamination
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I was driving along today and my Check Engine light came on. I stopped at the nearest Advance Auto to have them pull the code and it came up with the P0420, Catalyst Efficiency Below Threshold (Bank 1). I asked what could cause this and they mentioned that the fuel that was put in could be causing it. They didn't mention any other possible causes. Any others? I'm thinking it could be the fuel because the last gas station that I stopped at and filled up at is one that I never go to, and maybe just got a bad batch of fuel.
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I recently had the engine light come up on my Hyundai Elantra 2003. I read the code with my cheap little code reader with the torque lite (free) app on android. It threw the P0128 code which means a faulty thermostat.
Here's the web link to all the details on the code: [URL] ....
I have checked the coolant level and its good. The strength of the coolant is good to -40 Celsius. The engine fan is not running at all. I recently changed the thermostat. I'm leaning towards faulty ECT. The car takes forever to blow hot air too. It has done weird readings in the past with the temperature gauge in the cab.
I just bought a infrared temperature reader of Amazon and want to check the temperature where the water comes out of the engine past the thermostat and compare it to the reading on the torque app readings. I'm thinking it won't match.
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Car's a 2005 SE I4, auto, US-made
So, I finally got the Techstream to work; I think. I had ordered one which never came, then ordered a second one, which showed up after some five weeks. It took some playing around with the software, but it seems that I finally got it to work tonight on my old, and slow, Dell laptop (Windows 7, 32-bit), which will be devoted purely to car diagnostics, since there are supposed trojan viruses in the software.
The car's temperature gauge had been running very low, I had lost top-end power, as in, hitting a wall at 80-85 mph+ where there was no acceleration despite the pedal being floored, and eventually the check engine light came on. After the light came on, I took it easy on the car and ordered the software and cable. In full disclosure, I did a complete coolant flush in late Summer/early Fall, 2015, pouring in the proper fluid. There are no leaks and the level is correct. There are no foul odors from the engine. There is a slight head gasket leak on the upper right hand corner which I plan to address when the temps warm up again (no codes pertaining to vacuum leaks).
Tonight I managed to use the software and cable for the first time and pulled the following codes:
Engine and ECT, Monitor Status COM, DTC (Code) P0128
Occupant Detection, Monitor Status None, DTC (Code) B1771
So, do the symptoms described above, including loss of power, "match" the bad thermostat diagnosis?
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We bought a used 2001 Grand Am (V6 automatic) a few months ago. Mileage was just under 100,000. It was running decently at first, but that improved once we did more maintenance. It's gone from about 150 miles on the highway on a full tank to about 250. A lot of the problems didn't reveal themselves until we took it onto the highways. These are the parts we changed in the last 2 months:
-new battery (old one was 0.1 above fail)-all 6 spark plugs-catalytic converter-front oxygen sensor-oil filter-timing belt-pcv valve and breather hose (old one melted)-all 4 shocks/struts
Latest problem is OBD code P0301 cylinder #1 misfire. The entire car started to shake when we were in low speed in a drive thru. It only seems to shake in drive gear and it does it the whole time. It doesn't shake in reverse or any other gear. Found out #1 spark plug was cracked and a chunk of the ceramic portion was missing. It got replaced but that didn't fix the problem. Haven't noticed any white exhaust yet. The ignition fails 1/7 of the time since P0301surfaced.
The last problem we had was P0420. We went to 3 different shops and nobody was able to fix the problem properly. It wasn't until the pcv valve and breather hose were replaced that the code disappeared. The valve was actually cracked and parts of the breather hose were melted. I can't understand why nobody noticed that.
I know there could be a lot going on, but I was hoping the possible problem could be narrowed down.
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P0420 code. Catalyst Efficiency Below Normal (Bank 1)
This was the explanation I got from autozone. First question is how serious is this? The car seems to drive fine and normal, but I just purchased this car about a month ago. The light turned off after the guy at autozone plugged in the scanner. I am sure it will come back on again after some driving. Is it ok to drive with it on?
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2001 Jetta 2.0, manual trans
I've been having problems with intermittent P0420 cat below efficiency code. Everything else is fine, no codes, runs great. I tried spacing the post cat sensor back w/ extender bung (after replacing post cat sensor..) and still get the code. I don't hear any rattling or anything to make me think cat is bad physically. I was told by dealer that a code update might resolve for $200 - which got me thinking that that if that was so, it should should be a problem which Feds should be aware.
I searched safercar.gov and found this NHTSA ID Number: 10054864
It's a service bulletin saying that VW made the limits too sensitive and it seems there was a customer satisfaction campaign to update code - pdf on site CSC-10054864-8736
It says:
May 2007
Subject: Emissions Service Action N7
1999-2002 Jetta, Golf and GTI with VR6 Engine
Update Electronic Control Module (ECM) Software for Catalytic Converter Monitoring System Dear Volkswagen Owner: We are writing to inform you of an emissions service action on some 1999-2002 Jetta, Golf and GTI VR6 engine vehicles. Our records show that you are the owner of one of these vehicles.
What Is The Problem? The electronic control module (ECM) software for the catalytic converter monitoring system is too sensitive. This can cause the MIL to come on, and some vehicles may exceed Federal and/or California emissions standards. Also, in some cases this leads to unnecessary catalytic converter replacement. What Will Volkswagen Do? Dealers will update the ECM software.
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It has been running very smooth since I changed the lower intake gaskets, and I just went on a 1500 mile round trip roadtrip. It ran perfect the whole way, getting 22mpg to boot. In the last 50 miles, the CEL came one. The code read P0420 which is the cat converter? I dont want to fork up for a new one, are there any tricks to get this fixed or cleared?
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I have a 2006 S60 2.5T with 40k miles. My check engine light went on and stayed on for two drives. Then turned off and hasn't returned for next couple of drives. Error code says fuel pressure regulator. Should I bother to bring it to a mechanic or since the light went off (didn't burn out -- it momentarily turns on when I start the car) should I assume all is well?
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I bought an 04 elantra a few weeks ago. The check engine light is now on and I get code P0420 listed twice with my code reader. I have replaced the downstream O2 sensor and reset the codes only for them to return again. It is my understanding that this is going to be a convertor problem. My question is that from the research I have done it looks as though this car has two converters. One at the exhaust manifold and then another in the tailpipe. Which one is going to be the most likely causing my Check engine light to come on. Or do I need to replace both converters.
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I have a 2001 Honda Odyssey with 90000 miles. Lat last year around Oct/Nov time frame, check engine light came on. I took my vehicle to a local Auto Zone store and they scanned the code and told me it was P0420 - bad catalytic converter.
I replaced the cat converter with an after market model, however after 3/4 months (after driving 2000 to 3000 miles), check engine light came on with the same code. The mechanic changed the cat converter and put a new (after market model). Again after 3/4 months (2000 to 3000 miles) check engine light came on again. And this time the mechanic replaced the cat converter and also oxygen sensor. Now after 4 months or so the check engine light is on the vehicle again.
The mechanic is now saying that the problem is not with the cat converter and he is saying there is a lot of abnormal deposit on the vehicle. When he scanned again he found another issue that read something like "high voltage" and this time the guy thought may be due to short circuit (per code) the fuel injector is sending high volume of fuel and this is causing excessive fuel to go into the cylinder and hence high volume of emission. I replaced the fuse box again and after another 100 miles or, the problem is reappearing.
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I had a Check Engine Light a couple months ago, and I took the car to the garage to have it checked out. They told me they got a Fuel Pressure Sensor malfunction code, and that the sensor had to be replaced. I did so myself, an it is ridiculously easy, and the car worked fine. I noticed the Check Engine Light blinked a couple of times while I was driving, but never got steady. A couple of days ago, it did. Out of a bad gut-feeling, I purchased a ODBII scanner, and I scanned the car myself. I got the same error code as the garage did, but the sensor should be fine.
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I have unfortunately inherited a 2007 Toyota Camry LE at the passing of an uncle. I recently purchased an Innova 3140 b diagnostic scanner which pulled up several codes. One of which keeps popping back.
P0128 refers to (according to innova).
Coolant Thermostat (Coolant Temp Below Thermostat Regulating Temperature).
I have replaced the coolant temperature sensor but the codes came back after a few days. I cleared it once again and the code reappeared that same day. I have a thermostat on standby ready to install if the fix requires such.
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