Volvo - Oil - S40 :: Oil Light Flickered While Making Turns
Mar 18, 2014
I have a 2008 Volvo S40. I bought it used less than a year ago, at around 68k miles from a volvo dealership in my area. At just before my 75000 maintenance, I noticed that my oil light flickered while I made turns. Turns out, I was 4-5 quarts low on oil- and took it into my mechanic (a certified volvo mechanic) within two days and without further driving it. Everything goes well- car looks good. Now, at my 82,000 mile maintenance, again, the same flicker of the oil lamp light on my turns- and poof! Oil is down again 5 quarts. Now, there's absolutely no sign of leakage or burning, and my mechanic thinks it's due to carbon build up around the piston rings.... this sounds like more of a result of a disguised problem, rather than the cause itself. I don't use cheap gas, and have done everything according to the service manual.
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I was driving home just a few minutes ago when my headlights flickered and then cut out for a few seconds. They came back on, but I hadn't driven another 1/2 mile when they flickered again and went off for a further few seconds. This was repeated once more about a mile later, though when I pulled over (first time I was able to do so), they stayed off til after I restarted the car and banged on the dashboard.
Further symptoms: running lights, brake lights, and tail lights seem unaffected. Turning the switch for the headlights off and back on does not affect the issue.
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2005 S60 with 98k miles on it. The LOW BRAKE FLUID light (Red triangle/Urgent) comes on for about a second or two on really hard turns. Do I need new brakes maybe? Or awhile to go? Or maybe the sensor is sensitive??
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Recently I overhauled the engine put new rod bearing and had it bored and honed. As well as new pistons. when i first started it, it ran fairly good except for the tappets making noise but i thought this was normal. after 40 miles the tappets were still making noise and the oil light began flickering. I replaced the oil pan o rings with no luck. i also took the pump apart to check that and still nothing. I have a feeling a main bearing might have been put in the wrong spot. What should i do next to confirm this? what should i do from this point on?
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When I drive in a parking lot or parking garage and start off into a slow, tight corner, I feel a "surge". If I had a locked diff I would understand. I have a Haldex composition controller. I am not bothered about it...just wondering what it could be. Maybe the clutch slipping?? No evidence of that at full throttle acceleration runs in the higher gears.
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my 1992 960 wagon with 332K miles today started making a moaning noise when making a significant turn at low speed. At first it seemed to be only when I was accelerating but if that was true, it now is doing it at any low-speed big turn. Tonight, turning around in the driveway, it added what I call juddering during the turn. So naturally I am concerned.If it is something as minor as power steering fluid I might trust a local gas station to fill it up, but probably not any more than that. (There used to be a dealer about 45" away, but they seem to be gone now, and the closest one is hours away. I am 250 miles and one week away from my own trusted mechanic, so I hope it is something like fluid!).I haven't noticed any puddles on the driveway where it is parked, but I suppose it could leak out only when the engine is on and the car is moving.
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Have a 2000 accent with 155k on it. The other day noticed the oil light flickered on and off... hasn't come back on since... so I did some google research and saw some postings on possible oil pump issues. Another thing this morning went to go get the oil changed and they said they wouldnt change it cause iut was knocking a little.... so I have a feeling both these issues are related somehow... Last thing when I check the oil with the car cold.. I pull the dipstick and dont see any oil on it.... but when its running you pull the dipstick and it shows the oil.....
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I installed a new ballast and bulb for an 07 ES350. Light, on drivers side, still flickered until I installed the ground screw. This is the screw behind the drivers side quarter panel and it is the only screw on the side of the headlight assembly. Once I inserted this screw, light functioned properly for about 10 minutes. Then it went out and light doesn't come on at all. The fuse is still good. I have tried switching bulbs and light still doesn't work. Also, there isn't any humming from the ballast at all.
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Last week a warning light appeared on screen. It flickered on and off for a minute, and I think it was going on more when I was cornering. Then it stayed on and has been on ever since.
I did a search and read the post about the clock spring recall. But it is not a recall in the UK. I'm in the UK where they sold this model from 2006. I guess I'm going to have to take it to the dealer and get them to read the codes.
Is there anything simple I can check myself first, like for a lose connection under the seats of anything like that?
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I noticed the second night driving our new Touareg that the compass light flickered from dim to bright and back. A few minutes after the display went completely off. Haven't noticed it since but I have seen a few posts that suggest they turn off after 30 sec. and can be adjusted with VagCom. I called VWoA and they had no info on it yet. The other issue was the engine cover that was on the demo Touareg with identical options other than the color, is not on our new vehicle. Our vehicle we bought was delivered the night of our demo ride, so it is a late build...small center rear head rest...etc. When I questioned the dealer they said the engine cover was discontinued recently and is not installed anymore. I wish it was there, looks clean. Other than that my second vehicle is an '04 Jeep Grand Cherokee and I love to drive the VW over the Jeep. They did an excellent job on it.
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I have a 2003 Volvo XC90 that turns over but will not start. The fuel pump has been replaced twice, once by the car lot I purchased the vehicle from - the car worked for maybe a week and the problem returned, and the second time by the Volvo dealership - again the car worked initially, maybe another week and the problem returned. I'm not even sure if it is the fuel pump, but after two fuel pumps, I'm thinking that the issue may be something else.
I'm not sure if Volvo Dealership ran a full diagnostic or not, because they replaced the fuel pump because of the recall. Each time the car was "fixed" the car would start maybe after 3 seconds of cranking (which is long compared to my other cars that catch immediately) but on subsequent starts the 3 turns into 10 seconds, 15 seconds or so the next time, until eventually it just does not catch and I drain the battery in attempting to.
It has actually been "fixed" three times, but the second time a fuse was replaced, and it worked, and deteriorated exactly the same way as the other times until it no longer started again. I'm hoping that the nature of how it begins failing can be of some assistance, I feel as if some type of pressure or something is being lost over time, the way it takes longer and longer to start before it decides not to.
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I drive a 2004 Volvo v70 (non turbo). It died on me about 3 times in 5 years on tight turns ((switchback). It hadn't happened for a couple of years but now it has stopped 3 times in the last couple of months. It is very dangerous as the steering stops working and I have to totally stop, put my car in park and restart.
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Our 1985 Volvo 740 GLE sedan will intermittently not start. The engine turns over, just won't go. Let it sit a bit and it starts right up again. No rhyme or reason or pattern to the failure.
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I have a 95 Volvo 850 2.2 L (non-turbo.) I recently replaced the fuel pump, and filter. Now when I try to start the engine, it turns over and sputters before it dies. I let it sit for about 10 minutes and try again with the same results and the same with a longer wait time due to having to charge my battery. I have checked the fuel lines and they seem to be clear, up to the fuel rail. I also checked the plugs and although they need to be replaced, after sanding and re-gaping them, there is plenty of spark. The plug wires and distributor cap are fairly new, and the points look good. So the only problem I see as logical, is the fuel rail, pressure regulator, and injectors. I have bled the fuel rail at the shrader valve, and I am getting little to no fuel from it. I want to remove the injectors and rail, and check out the regulator along with the rest. But how do I tell if the regulator is good, and what is the best way to clean injectors so they will at least last till I can replace them with new?
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I have a 2002 volvo v70 xc just had the passenger side strut replaced and now every time i make a sharp turn usually in reverse to the left my driver side wheel makes a horrible popping sound. It will also make said sound sitting still and turning the wheel same direction very sharply. Could this possibly be from when i had it worked on? They originally told me i needed new control arm bushings then decided i needed a new strut. Could they have possibly messed with anything that could have caused this?
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I have a 1998 Volvo S70 with 140k. 2.5 litre 5cyl automatic. For sometime now my lifters have been making noise especially at start up. I'm up to date on my oil servicing using Volvo filters and a 20-50w motor oil ( as recommended by my mechanic ) but still the noise continues. In the past I have used additives to the oil but still the problem continues. Maybe I'm using the wrong one.
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I got a Prius c 2015 and when I got the car home (about 13 miles) the gas motor was making a noise when the car was turned off. It lasted about 3 or 4 minutes. Is that normal?
Also the brakes sound a little like a jet as I slow down. I think the brake noise is normal but the gas engine one is what concerned me.
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MKV R32? I take Hwy 17 to and from work. It's a pretty curvy road with some of tight turns (fun) and a number of slight turns that have a little incline. Whenever I make a slight right turn (like a long sweeper), I feel a slight vibration under the pedals and it feels like the car is grinding.
It only happens on those slight turns at 50-65mph and I can only replicate the vibrations on a curvier road......The car is smooth as silk around town, on the interstate but not when it comes to those right hand sweepers.
The car has no problem taking full right hand turns or even handling a right hand hairpin. Could it be my tires?wheel bearings? alignment?need my tires rotated? I took it to the dealer and the mechanic and I couldn't replicate the problem on the interstate. The car has 8900 miles on it and I will need to take it in for service soon.
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My 2005 Dodge Ram (53,000 miles) will sometimes die while I'm making a left turn, or when I'm moving slowly in a parking lot.I get the oil change regularly and asked my mechanic to checkinto it. He. thought it has something to do with using cheaper gas, so I started buying the more expensive gas but it is still doing it. This is scary when it happens because not only do I suddenly slow down, but the power steering goes out and I have to muscle it around the turn.
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"I have a 2001 XC70 WAGON and is making big noise while moving, bigger the speed bigger the noise, engine in idle and in N (while in speed) the same. Could this be because of tires?
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My 1990 Volvo is making a terrible noise at about 20-30 miles per hour. It only lasts a few minutes but it sounds like a plane taking off underneath the passenger seat (wagon). Had the muffler replaced, but it didn't fix the noise. I also have a high pitched noise at freeway speeds.
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