Volvo - Noises :: 1991 - Odd Sounds With Foot Fully On The Accelerator
Apr 24, 2011
My sister's 1991 Volvo 240 automatic. She is scared to drive it. When we push the accelerator fully down while in park the car makes a sound of accelerating hard and decelerating, it occasionally makes the sound of a backfire. All the sounds are coming from under the hood. When in drive it will not actually accelerate past first gear, it will buck back and forth, and still makes the sounds. Its almost like a shutter. Reverse is the same. We recorded the sounds.
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The engine continues to rev after I take my foot off the accelerator. Does it under many different conditions, but especially the engine needs to be warmed up for it to do this. Toyota just called to say there is nothing wrong with it, even though I had a technician drive it and tell me "this is messed up!" Apparently the master technician that worked on it today didn't have a clue. Under warranty and will fight it! What is wrong with the car?
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I was driving along nicely, then faced with a climb up the hill, I floored it ... the throttle stuck fully and the revs up to 5000 RPM and the governor kicked in, zoom ... hmmm zoom hmmm .. I was lucky cuz I shut off the engine and was able to coast back down to my driveway. No code reader, I decided "how hard can that be" since it happened once before and then worked ok for 6 months ... maybe a linkage, etc
A friend looked at it and tried the old process of elimition ... unplugging the MAss Air Flow connector ... trying it ... then the TPS on the throttle body. He suspected one or both. So I replaced them... happy to get the sucker started without revving uncontrollably. But the pedal was sticky, the idle speed too high and when you press the brake pedal ( and nothing else ) the car stalls, putt putt putt kerplunk. Starts up again tho. but impossible to drive like this. So I gets me a code reader .. follow the directions and this is what I get now
P0441 Evaporative Emission system Incorrect Purge Flow ( this is an easy one even for me ... the engine light came on last time I fueled up - gas cap was not turned enough ) no brainer
P0122 Throttle / Pedal Position Sensor A Circuit Low Input
P0101 MAss or Volume Air Flow Circuit Range / PErformance
P0222 Throttle / Pedal Position Sensor B Circuit Low Input
P2119 Throttle Actuator Control Throttle Body Range / PErformance
P2112 Throttle Actuator Control System Stuck Closed
P2422 Evaporative Emission System Vent Valve Stuck Closed
Puzzling since whatever broke started working again spontaneously last time. I figure, it cannot be all the above at the same time .. perhaps one of the early sensors?
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It seems to me my Prius 2007 decelerates noticeably when I take my foot off the accelerator. It's noticeable but not even near the level of the engine braking in B mode. The change seems to have happened since my last service but the I won't swear to it, and the dealer says there hasn't been a software change.
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I have a 2007 Mazda 5 and over the past few days, I notice the acceleration seems slightly sluggish, especially on inclines. Then last night I had a problem where I was driving and whenever I took my foot off the accelerator, the car would stop (rather than gradually slowing). And when I put my foot back on the accelerator, the car jerked forward before finding the right speed. I parked and after work, it drove just fine. Drove fine this morning also. The shop says I need a new solenoid purge valve, but after reading about that valve, I don't understand how it could cause my problem. The car didn't stall whom it stopped, it just stopped moving forward.
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Ever since I got a brake job, my brake lights have come on, all 8 of them. Traction Control, ABS, Brake, etc. Every once in a while they will go off and be normal for a day or two then they will come back on. The service center that did the brake job said everything looks good, it must be a faulty brake actuator.
The brakes work fine although on starting I have to remove my foor from the petal and then reapply it to move the transmission from park to drive. When on the highway doing 70 mph or so, when I take my foot off the accelerator I hear a pop coming from under the rear of the car mostly on the passenger side. In about 5 minutes, I'll hear it again. It sounds like pressure is being built up than all of a sudden released with a pop.
Actuator replacement and I rather not go through the expense if it is air in the brake line of a faulty sensor.
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So I have a 2005 Camry XLE, 3.0 l V6 with 160k miles. The car was running fine, but I decided to change the spark plugs today (overdue).
I went through the headache of removing the intake manifold, throttle body etc and everything seemed to go OK. I reassembled it all and now it won't idle properly.
It seems like a vacuum leak issue to me, but I have double checked the multiple hose connections. I did NOT disconnect the battery at any time.
I can Rev it up to 3 or 4000 rpm and it runs smoothly (all the cylinders seem to be firing) but it runs rough and dies without my foot on the accelerator. Also I noticed the exhaust manifold got cherry red like right now... after only a minute or two of running.
Are there any troubleshooting checks I can perform to narrow down the source of the vacuum leak?
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Heading out on 4 week 3k mile road trip. Have 12v adaptors for a very efficient laptop and smartphone.
It seems that in "Accessory" mode the PIP is using only the dinky 12V battery so this is not a healthy solution. Is there a recommended strategy to put the car in semi-ready mode and reduce all possible drain so that utilizing the 12V will not be draining the traction battery reserves much at all?
I'm thinking that perhaps trying to put the car in "ready" mode with the FOOT OFF the brake indeed fires up access to the traction battery without firing up other things that require the full power monty that Ready mode with the FOOT ON the brake requires. Seems to me the PIP is a great mobile office solution if we could gain access to traction battery reserves without running much else.
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I have a '92 toyota camry that we just purchased and put a new engine in... now it's stalling when you come to a stop and are taking your foot off the accelerator. we've tried a fuel injector, a fuel clean, fixed vacuum leaks, and replaced the fuel filter, and fuel preside regulator... it's still doing it and is getting worse.
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I have a 2001 F250 7.3 with 175K.
Here is the situation. There is a disturbing clunk when I take my foot off the accelerator and a corresponding clunk when I push back down on the accelerator. This only occurs when the vehicle is not under load. That is, it does not happen when going up hill or on any sort of an incline. It does not happen when the automatic transmission shifts. It does not happen shifting into reverse or drive.
It does not happen when starting or stopping. It only happens when I am at 40-60, or so, miles an hour and let off the accelerator and/or press the accelerator again. It appears that I can carefully feather the accelerator to eliminate or, at least, minimize the clunk. I have crawled under the truck and it looks like all the U-joints are tight, I have lubricated the slip-yoke (although when twisted there is, like a mm of play when this is twisted, not much but a very little).
The rear-differential pinion appears to be tight (no side-to-side play or up-and-down play, or at least I can't make it move with my hands). However, when the truck is in neutral the entire driveshaft is able to rotate a half inch, or so, all the way up and down the drive train. That is, the transfer case and the rear differential appear to have a little rotational play in them, but I am guessing this is pretty normal. When in park the entire driveline seems solid.
I have seen from some of the other posts that this sort of clunking can come from leaf springs, hangers and such but since this clunk seems so isolated to acceleration changes when the vehicle is not under load, I doesn't seem like this would be the issue. No clunk when shifting, turning, bumps etc. Everything seems perfect until I am on a gentle downhill or flat and let off the accelerator. Doesn't appear to clunk when going down a steeper decline. All this gets me to thinking that the clunk is caused whenever the driveshaft rotation gets ahead of or behind the rotation in the rear differential.
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After putting my front end back together except new springs, new shocks, and new track bar, just to give everyone a little history of what I've done to it. I've had it for 8 months and maybe put 1000 miles if that because of working out of town a lot and the front end torn apart. I've noticed a louder roar coming from the rear end when taking my foot off the accelerator without pressing the brake. It feels like the tow button is engaged, but isnt. I have no issues with handling besides knowing it still needs alignment. I'm taking it to the dealership tomorrow for a 4 wheel alignment. It sounds and feels like I'm riding on mud terrain tires.
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My car developed an "intermittent" accelerator whistling noise coming thru one of the speakers (I think). The harder you accelerate - the louder the whistle. When idling, it sounds like an open air whirring noise. Of course every time I bring it to the shop - it stops and when I hear it it's never convenient to get to the shop!
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Sometime the car is fighting to move forwards when I start to depress accelerator pedal and it sounds like "click click CLICK..." the sound changes from lower to louder depending on how I depress accelerator pedal... (like the car is trying to hard to move)...
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Sometimes I have to hold the accelerator the floor and it starts. Sometimes I get a faster than normal cranking speed and no start. When this occurs I can hold my foot to the floor and it will backfire through the intake. After some time of this the car will start.
Here's what I've done so far.
1. Checked timing and timing belt - OK
2. Ignition system check coil, wires, plugs - OK
3. Fuel system pump, injectors, and regulator - OK (Regina fuel system)
4. Checked and changed the relay and the cam sensor - OK
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I drive a 2005 toyota mini-van. Lately the engine has started sounding strange. it has been sounding like a tiny diesel engine or like a go-kart. There are no lights on on the dash, I have not noticed any changes in fuel consumption, acceleration etc. and the temperature is normal. Is this a timing issue? is my car about to die? what are the repair costs?
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My car is making a strange whine noise. It sometimes gets so loud and sounds like sort of the generic sounds for bad cars in movies where it is a high-pitched whine sort of scrape. It has been hot and dry here. I took it to the shop one day when it was rainy and cold. When I got to the shop it was not making the noise. We could not recreate it. They took a look and said I could swap my belts, spark plugs and top off fluids. I figured it might be my belts making the noise, so I got it fixed.
Imagine my frustration when I picked up my car and the noise was back. I had the mechanic come listen and he said he could hear it but it wasn't very loud so he wasn't sure. He said it could be the steering pump or something of that nature. The noise has gotten louder and I do not know what to do. It sounds like a high-pitch eeeee whine and simultaneous scraping. It happens more when I press on the gas, and not when the car is stopped. I can't tell if it is coming from the engine or the tire or the axel. It is toward the front of the car.
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I have a 1991 Volvo 240 Base with an Automatic Transmission. Just yesterday, I was hopping onto the highway, when all of a sudden, my car would not go any faster than 40 to 45 MPH. It has been running fine up to that point. I ended up just taking side streets, where it ran fine. I have not taken it on the highway after that.
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my 2007 3.2 s80, 75 K miles, will not respond to accelerator for the first 1-2 miles after a cold start, then runs fine, no check engine light has shown. Per shop recommendation switched to 92 octane x3tanks, then replaced fuel sensor, neither solved.
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It makes knocking noises from all four corners, but mainly, when I make a hard right turn and it knocks it feels like the guts is going to fall out of it. It leaks tremendous amounts of oil from one side of the car to the opposite under the engine, but on checking the oil level, it does not require much topping up. Sometimes when making a hard turn, it's like there is no power steering. After spending copious amounts of money on it, and the problems not going away, the mechanic said to get rid of it. Also, when unlocking the doors manually or by remote, the back left passenger door makes a loud electrical buzzing noise that only started happening after the mechanic fixed the warning lights that kept coming up. That door no longer opens from the outside which means it won't pass a warrant. It was suggested it might be the solenoid? After getting into the car, you can hear a buzzing coming from around the radio area, and I haven't even inserted the key yet. It's such nice looking car and when it drives right, is awesum..
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I recently purchased a 1991 Volvo Turbo 740 with 186,000 miles on it. It runs perfect for a few days and then when parked will not start. Attempt to start 1/2 hour later it starts and runs perfect again. It has done that for several days now. I have driven it to locations approximately 40 miles round trip with frequent stops for a period of time and then start up again. This AM it started up perfect as I moved it from a driveway to part in front of my house on the street. Several hours later I went to start it but it would not start. 1/2 hour later I decided to try one more time before calling the tow truck to take to a mechanics and it started up perfect again. I drove it to the library and bank later and ran perfect after the two stops. This is driving me nuts since I had taken it to a mechanic when it did this Monday and it ran great at the mechanics and he could not determine what was wrong. He told me WHEN it stops again to have it towed in and he could determine at that time when it was not running.
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Starts great, idles great, tested everything. Will not rev past 1500rpm.
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