Volvo - Mdx :: XC60 Or Acura MDX
May 23, 2013
Looking at getting a new car this fall and am torn between the Volvo XC60 and Acura MDX (2013s).
I've test drove both a couple times. Both drive well, goods and bads about both obviously, just wanted to get some opinions.
I think the Volvo is faster, more luxurious, more destintive looks. Only downside is the tech is a bit cumbersome.
The Acura has a great track record, handles so good for a bigger vehicle.
Plastic wood panelling is too much and the 1995 display font in the center stack is dated.
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I currently live on the east coast at sea level, but I'll be moving to the mountains at ~7,200 ft. elevation, so I'm thinking my next vehicle will definitely need a turbocharger or supercharger. I'm looking at the XC60, and while turbocharged, my understanding is that it would still lose about 5% of its power at 7,200 feet (how to more exactly calculate the power loss), and since the XC60 is a heavy vehicle even a 5% loss causes me some concern.
So I'm considering the Polestar tune (not the R-Design as the bigger wheels and stiffer suspension aren't suited to the terrain/weather conditions). However, I've heard that some people don't like the Polestar throttle mapping adjustments (can make it a little touchy?).
I'll definitely try to test drive with and without the Polestar tuning, but I can't account for the elevation change and so far the only polestar tuned engines available in my area for a test drive are on R-Design models.
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I have a 2010 Volvo XC60 T6 AWD. I am encountering an issue with the transmission lurching, usually between 2nd and 3rd gear. While accelerating, the RPMs increase normally and when it tries to shift, it disengages 2nd, waits and the RPMs shoot up another 500-1000 before shifting into 3rd, giving the entire car a big lurch. It doesn't happen every time, but mostly when the when car hasn't been running for long. Another aspect is that the engine seems slightly underpowered when this occurs. The car runs great the rest of the time.
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I accidentally open the hood and find a secret oil spot on the engine. Is it leaking? Do I have to go to dealer to fix it?
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I have purchased a new 2013 XC60 and the seat and mirror memories associated with my keyless Personal Car Communicator (PCC) system are not working properly and the dealer is apparently at a loss as to how to fix it. What is even worse, Volvo's documentation on the capability is contradictory and no one from Volvo (including National Tech Support) is able to explain how it is supposed to work.
The total problem is much too complicated to explain here in detail, but basically the driver's seat and side rear view mirrors do not respond to the PCC (key fob) in a predictable manner. One time use of a particular PCC will result in the seat and mirrors going to one location, and the next time they will go to a different location. Use of the buttons on the PCC will produce one result and use of the keyless capability with the same PCC will produce a different result.
I have determined that the settings saved in the seat memory buttons (there are 3 of them) sometimes play a part in where the seat and mirrors go when the PCC is used despite the Volvo documentation insisting that these memories are separate from each other.
Volvo Tech Support insists that they have no history of problems in this area but discussions with other customers, and even some of the Volvo sales people, make it clear that I am not the only one experiencing these issues.
Although the memory settings would normally just be considered a convenience option, I have found the issue to be a safety concern. On more than one occasion I was on the road before realizing that my rear view mirrors were pointed off in space somewhere and I could not use them to make a safe lane change or other maneuver.
A side observation is that the computer based functions in the car appear sluggish and seem many times to operate with a lag. I know that this car contains almost two dozen processor modules and maybe this topic deserves a separate thread, but it is as if the communications network is very slow or the modules are slow in waking up. I'm wondering if this is involved with the unpredictable seat and mirror memory operation.
I would like to hear from others who have had or are having similar problems.
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What are the correct timing marks and positions for a Volvo 940 Turbo? I especially need the position of the crankshaft pulley. I have read the timing mark is on the cover, but unfortunately mine has dry rotted and crumbled away.
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I believe my torque converter has issues in my 07 MDX(92k) as I get vibration around 25 and 40MPH if driven easy. Torque converter guess is based on google research however, I do not get a jumpy tach that some folks report. The one dealership I did visit said did not exhibit condition. Vibration intermittently presents itself if you drive vehicle easy but shifts wonderfully if driven moderately to really hard.
Transmission fluid was last changed at 70k at the dealer where all service performed at proper intervals. Are my questions ignoring an issue like this lead to bigger problems? What to do. Would changing transmission fluid which is pink and smells fine do any good? My plan of ownership is 4-5years/60k miles.
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I have an 88 acura integra and the problim is that once in a while it would not start after it had been running. If I let it sit for 5 min it would start. Now it is happening everyday. One time it will start great and run fine, but when I turn it off I don't know if it will start again. I checked the gas and it is getting gas and the pressure is fine, but when it last happened it would turn over but wouldn't start for the rest of the day, I checked and it had no spark. After I replaced the ignition control mod and rotor, it started on the second try but when i got to work and turned it off the same thing. I let it sit for a while (about 15 min) and it started. Like I said after it starts it runs great, lots of power, no missing or any thing.
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Lately, my 1990 Integra has been idling VERY low. Some mornings, while idling at a stop, the rpms fluctuate up and down to the point where it almost dies. Is it just cold? I live in coastal San Diego, so it's not freezing here. This morning, had to keep my foot on the gas to keep the car from stalling before getting home from dropping son off at school. It died in the driveway. Started up just fine right afterwards, but idled down to nothing. Now it idles okay, but at a pretty low rpms, like usual. NOW, the battery, a SEARS Diehard Silver, is near the end of its usable life. Prorated 84,000 mile replacement warranty, but I have had it for 8.5 years and have 1 82,000 miles on it. YES! I have been meaning to replace it, as it is leaking some nasty stuff at the terminals, but wonder if the weird idling is a symptom of something else, since the car still turns over.
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I recently found out my motor mounts are bad. Almost a year ago I noticed I was leaking coolant so I just filled it with water every time it was empty. Now I have been getting an overheating problem if it's not filled to the right amount. Just yesterday the problem got worse as there is green gunk at the opening of the radiator and it's always hot. The reservoir is filling up with hot water a lot of the time. My radiator will be empty when that happens. As I was driving the gauge was reading hot. Turning on the heater didn't work much. I tested it tonight, with the radiator full and 2 cups water in reservoir. Drove it a few blocks and turned off car. Radiator had lots of pressure and hot. The reservoir was same level.
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Driving down the highway on a sunny, beautiful Texas day, I had the sunroof closed but the sun shade open. I heard this loud pop that sounded like a gun and looked up to see the sunroof has shattered on my 2010 Acura TL. I was terrified but didn't lose control of the car, shut the shade, and drove it to the nearest dealership. It was $950 to replace the glass and the dealer said it would not be covered by warranty as a rock must have hit the sunroof. I only heard a pop, though--wouldn't a rock have made a separate hit followed by the pop explosion?
The whole experience has just left a bad impression of Acura and the dealer's refusal consider the warranty. Our insurance deductible is too high to cover the glass. Looking on the internet (unscientific, I know) I saw a few stories similar to mine where the sunroof exploded as the driver was driving down the highway due to pressure in the cabin being incompatible with the sunny day and pressure outside. Is this possible?
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I just bought a 95 Acura Integra from Canada. I haven't driven it in a few weeks. It has a lot of stuff in it. An aftermarket engine and intake. Also aftermarket speakers and stereo. It has blue lights installed by the pedals. Now it won't start. I got stuck in town the other day. Whats wrong? I really love this car. Awesome body kit and everything. I don't wanna sell it!
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Why my 99 Acura would die out in hot weather? This seems to happen especially if the AC has been on. (I am pretty sure that this exact thing was discussed on the radio about a month ago but I forgot what they said!).
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I have a 1996 Acura Integra with manual transmission. It has only 113K miles on it. I put on only 6K to 7.5K miles a year. I have owned the car since it was new & have always changed the oil & oil filter myself. Until about 3 years ago I changed the oil & filter 4 times a year--roughly about every 2K miles. Three years ago I reduced the number of oil changes to 3 times per year. Recently it was suggested to me that even that was too many and that I should change the oil & filter every 6 months. To be honest I am not comfortable with that but I also realize that my discomfort may simply come from habit. I have changed the oil & filter every 2K on every car that I have owned since I was a teenager. I should tell you that I am 80 years old and live on my savings & a pension. To replace this car would cost me between $25K to $30K so it is to my advantage to keep the car on the road for as long as I can. In short will I be doing any harm to the engine by changing the oil every 6 months?
A second question that I have about oil is that it is becoming increasingly more & more difficult to buy a high quality brand of conventional motor oil. When I shop I have been finding that the better engine oils, Castrol GTX, for example, do not offer much of a selection when it comes to conventional motor oil. In fact conventional motor oil is their cheapest oil. Most of the varieties of oil that they offer are blends of conventional motor oil & synthetic oil. I have heard conflicting statements about switching from conventional oil to synthetic oil. Some say it is dangerous to do and that it should not be done while others say that it does no harm. But what about switching to a blend of conventional oil & synthetic oil? Will that cause any damage to the engine?
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Looking for a new luxury SUV - had a 2001 RX-300 and put 230,000 miles on it and gave it to my daughter. The local Lexus dealer seems to have only AWD models and is not real useful in getting a FWD stripper (don't want nav, etc.) The local Acura dealer has several base MDX's in FWD and seems more useful. Drove both AWD versions and thought the Acura was much better handler and better road feel. Am leaning towards Acura but don't know about service costs and long term reliability - we will keep either car for 12 years probably. What say you? Doesn't seem to be a decent Acura MDX forum out there.
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So, I have a 2007 Acura TSX with stock rims/lug nuts. Anyway, I just recently had to have one tire replaced due to a side wall puncture. Now, on that wheel, I am noticing that one lug nut is sticking out further than the other ones. It feels tight when I try to turn it, and I am unable to loosen it by hand. I don't have a torque wrench, so I am not sure what it is torqued to, but I am kind of concerned about this.
Could they have screwed up the lug nut post? Obviously, I will take it back to the place I had the tire/rim put on at, but they most likely won't be open till after the holiday.
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Sometimes my 2002 Acura RL will start right up. I go shopping, come out a half hour later and it won't start. Has a new battery, no clicking noises. If I get it into neutral and push it the car will start. Would this be the starter motor, fuel lines, alternator? any guesses?
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I am going on a camping trip this weekend and I thought I'd get some insight to mountain driving. I understand that going down a steep hill, one should stay in the lower gears to slow the car and prevent constant braking and brake fade. However, what is the mechanics behind this? In lower gears, what prevents the car from continuing to gain speed as I am going down the hill. Let's say I am in 1st gear and my car max out at 20 mph. How is it that the car stays at 20mph and what prevents the car from flying down a steep hill? Won't the kinetic energy of the car eventually speed up car past 20mph?
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My acura legend is now starting to not shift in d4 or d3 after it has been driven for awhile.... It only shifts to 2 and 1.... So I drive it in 2 but it doesn't sound right or drive right I can definitely tell the difference... What is going on what should I do???
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Lately my car has been stalling out after trying to start it again after it has been recently turned off. Could this be the fuel injectors or the oxygen sensor. I must admit, the car manufacturer suggest using high test gas but I have been using the medium grade.. This condition is not consistent. It has bad periods and then it will be fine for a long period. The car has 108,000 miles. The oxygen sensor was already replaced around 70,000 miles. No other major engine work has been done to it.
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I'll be driving my car and then it will randomly drift to the right, it doesn't normally do it. It doesn't shake or hard of steering. It is at random times. My car is a 2003 Acura rsx base model 109000 miles...
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