My boyfriend has a Volvo with 100,000+ miles, not exactly sure what year, but he recently found out the Gas Tank has a leak- ON TOP of the tank. We scratched our heads and tried to figure out how this happened. How did this happen? He does normal city driving, hasn't have an accident or bump into anything. He took it into the mechanics and they said it would be around 3000 repair/replace. How the tank got a leak on the top?
View 13 RepliesLost coolant after dealer replaced a new fuel pump.
Before I start car, the level of coolant is Max and tank cap is tight. Driving back home and stop engine, the coolant level is still Max. Second day, coolant is lost and tank cap is a little loose. No more coolant loss if leaving it at home without driving. If I topped up the tank, after two days driving, coolant level is lower than MIN.
I did not find any leaks, like fuel tank and passenger's side floor.
Is it possible that tank cap causes this coolant loss?
Due to my working within city, I hardly drive on highways so all my mileage readings are city readings. Recently I noticed that the mileage measurements at 3/4 full tank and 1/4 full tank were different. When I fill up the tank with 3/4 full and 1/4 of full tank left are very different. At 3/4 full, my city mpg is at 16mpg however when I fill up the tank with 1/4 of fuel left, the mileage is at 14 or less. This happens repeatedly. Could this be the sign of fuel pump dying?
View 19 RepliesThe leak only happens when filled more than 3/4 of a tank. It appears that the leak is coming from a hose or hose fitting to the right of the opening on top of the tank,under the driver's side rear seat. So far I have only been able to drop the tank about 2 inches.
View 3 RepliesMy '99 Passat V6 TDi has just developed a fuel leak somewhere around the tank outlet/inlet. I'm just going away on a trip (in another car) and can't get underneath to have a look-see just yet. Any typical problem in this area?
View 1 RepliesBack again, with the 1994-ish Volvo 940 with many miles on it.
Symptoms reported by son: coolant leak near firewall (radiator hoses replaced a few weeks ago); maybe some pressure in cooling system; some oily stuff in the coolant in the radiator.
Shop's diagnosis: transmission cooler leaking. (Well at least it's not the head gasket!)
Recommend : Replace radiator, cap (sure), thermostat (all right, but we get rid of this car in six weeks), and ... flush the transmission (alarm!).
Usual advice is drain and refill tranny, rather than flush. However, seems to me that with high risk of coolant in trans fluid, flush is the right action.
Aside from other issues I am having with my prius, this was one lurking. I originally thought the prius was "using" the coolant insufficiently. Anyhow, I bought this prius from a private dealer....(know how that goes)......
View 15 RepliesI have a gas leak coming from the r/s rear of the tank. The exposed fuel lines all look good. It seems to be dripping down from the top but I can't see anything unless I drop the tank down. I ran the smoke tester but don't see anything comming out. Could I have overfilled the tank??
View 6 RepliesI have the dual tank setup & this is my problem.
Last year I replaced both tanks - the front was leaking bad and rear was starting to leak. After replacing both tanks, the rear tank (which I was using before) was unusable - it would idle fine and when applying throttle would stall out. The front tank's gauge did not work.
This week I pulled both tanks. Had new gauge assembly put on front pump unit. Also had the rear pump replaced with a new (rebuilt?) one. Installed both tonight. Now the front tank is running fine with a gas gauge. I Filled up the rear and once I had about 16 gallons in, fuel started leaking from the front top of the tank it looks like (where in-tank pump is). This leak has continued as the truck was turned off too. I think it may have stopped now, but its dark and I am parked on a hill. As another problem, I still have the same "stalling" problem. The rear will idle fine, but start to stall out when a load has been applied.
So to summarize:
- What is causing it to want to & stall out?
- Why am I leaking gas?
It seems to stop dripping gas after (maybe) the pressure is lower from leaking the gas out. Also, when 1st starting it up on the front tank, it wants to stall out...probably from the gas that leaked out while it was shut off? The truck will run for about 1/20th of a mile on the rear tank when initially starting it up before showing signs of stalling.
My overflow tank seems to be going empty slowly. The last time I filled it was in March and I filled it to the Full line. Now, the overflow is almost empty. I did 425 KM last night almost non-stop and the level stayed the same since that night and today. So, I am not burning any thru the gaskets. Exhaust is not white neither.
I did see one suspect thought. I have this really small rad at the bottom of the bumper and it seems a little wet around the tubes that enter it. Could it be that? I have no spots on the driveway or road when I park. Specs of my truck:
190 000 KM.
Oil changed on Saturday.
Runs well, no loss of power.
Temps are good.
I was driving my 2008 Santa Fe last week (before I went on vacation) and noticed the the A/C wasn't coming through quite a cool as usual (almost felt like the vent was on w/ no AC). Then after about 10 minutes of driving I noticed the thermostat on the car get to about the 3/4 line pretty close to the red lines.
Luckily I was home so turned the car off and popped open the hood. I noticed the reservoir tank was empty and there was some coolant that dripped down on the fans & a small pool of coolant on the engine block right under where the oil is poured. (nothing has been dripping under the car)
I added a little coolant to the reservoir tank and the next time I turned it on and let it run for ~10 minutes, it was the same thing.
Anyway, I came back from vacation and opened the hood to try and identify exactly where the leak was, and ran the car for ~30 minutes, with A/C on full blast and the car didn't overheat or leak anywhere. Coolant tank was still full from when I filled it the first time.
What could have caused the leak/overheating in the first place?
A few weeks ago my car over heated and stopped. I had it towed and the mechanic changed the water pump, timing belt, gasket cover and more. About two weeks ago I noticed antifreeze on my drive way. Took it back in and the mechanic changed a clamp on the radiator. it continued to leak antifreeze. I took it to Pep Boys for a pressurized test, they couldn't find a leak, but did say my radiator hoses needed changing and they suspect the radiator cap is the problem. That was a week ago. I just got back from vacation and the reservoir keeps getting low every day, but not at the minimum line since the first mechanic filled it to the top. There is not apparent leak under neath the car. No smell when I start. Oil is not milky. Called first mechanic he said sounds like a blown head gasket....
Car is Honda Accord 1999, 138K miles.
Just bought my volvo several days ago. It was throwing check engine codes so I had it scanned and it came down to a vacuum leak. I found the spot where it was leaking which was a little piece to the left and slightly behind the exhaust manifold, slightly behind and beneath the thermostat housing. It went from a hard plastic vacuum line, to a 1.5 inch rubber vacuum line which plugged into a nipple on the exhaust manifold or something behind the manifold. the rubber section had 3 large holes in it, so i replaced it with more rubber vacuum line. same length and same inner diameter.
What I did notice when I replaced it was that it was too large for the plastic line, slid on way too easy, but i had to fight it onto the nipple. The check engine codes went away for 2 days(I drove about 150 miles over that time) but today, the check engine light came back on, went to auto zone, had them scan it, came back with vacuum leak. So when I got home, I popped the hood, sprayed some carb cleaner by the replacement vacuum job I did, and sure enough the idle changed. What the proper replacement hose is for that area?
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I have a '98 Volvo V70 that has a slow leak in the cooling system. I have brought it to my indie Volvo mechanic several times and they keep trying new things - they've replaced the thermostat, all the hoses, overflow tank, and this last time used Stop Leak in case I have a bad head gasket. I'm 4 visits and $1600 into this repair, and it's still leaking. Now they're saying it must be the head gasket and it will be $3000 to fix. What do I do???? How do I know it will fix the car and when do I ask for my money back? When do guarantees come into play? Is the car worth it? It's worth nothing with a leak, so I'm stuck in this corner.
View 7 RepliesI'm having steady oil leakage on my S60. Coming from front right of vehicle, opposite turbo side. Took it to a mechanic and they diagnosed it as an oil hose leading from engine to turbo. Replaced it and it is still leaking from the engine. Hose showed no cracks or seal problems, so that wasn't it. Mechanic is taking the axle off to see if it is an engine block crack. If it is...welding aluminum is tough, I'm told, so it might need a new engine. Car has 101,000 miles and has had no other problems before this. Not sure I want to drop that much coin on a car that is getting older.
Could there be other culprits besides the engine block being cracked? I have been looking at some forums and see that PCV lines can get clogged, leading to an increase in pressure. Others mention the oil trap being plugged, and others mention a link between the cooling system and the oil line. The leak appears to be unrelated to the turbo, as that is dry, and is coming from the engine, but high enough that the mechanic can't see it without taking the axle off. What might make this problem occur besides a cracked engine block?
Last August, with about 76,000 miles on it, the oil light on my xc70 came on when I was making a U-turn. I took the car into the dealer and was told it was down almost 4 quarts. The “cause” was the breather box which was replaced for a substantial amount of money. About 5k miles later the same thing happened. Again I was down over 3 quarts but the breather box was fine. There is no leak and absolutely no indication that oil is burning (no smoke, smell, residue in the tailpipe).
The speculation was that that the oil was somehow vaporizing in a line between the pan and the block. I didn’t buy that.Now after three more visits; I have been bringing the car in every 1k for an oil change and consumption check (the dealer has absorbed this cost) they have determined it is losing about ½ quart every 1k miles. They have not identified why. All they say is that I can rebuild the engine (new rings and pistons). This is ridiculous! 85k on the car and it needs a new engine. This was a certified pre-owned Volvo with 11k when I bought it and all service has been done by the dealer.
The exhaust pipe connecting the cat and muffler is broken. However, the bolts connecting them are so rusted that look like one piece. Any tips on removing them off? I am afraid that PB blaster won't work in this case. I am thinking of drill them through, but afraid of damaging the cat.
BTW, my car's fuel tank has some leak. I can smell the gas. Is it safe to use a torch to remove freezing bolts?
I have a small fuel leak (97 Legacy Brighton wagon). The leak is detectable on the garage floor under the gas tank although I'm not certain that the gas tank itself is actually leaking.
View 3 RepliesI've had the Titan fuel tank installed for about a month now and am loving the extra range, although this morning I walked by the truck and got a slight whiff of diesel by the fuel filler door. I pulled out the flashlight to take a look, and noticed a really small, faint trail of diesel fuel running down the driver's side of the tank near the rear strap.
I crawled under the truck to inspect it as best as I could in the driveway, feeling around the sender, filler, and vent tube connections, and didn't notice any obvious puddles of diesel. About the most I got was some dampness around the sender unit seal, but it wasn't much, and could even be residue from the fuel lines dripping during installation of the tank. Based on where the trail down the side of the tank has formed, my best guess is it's going to be a filler or vent tube hose clamp that I didn't get tight enough.
Unfortunately I just filled the tank up last night and am headed out camping for the weekend this morning. I followed all the install instructions exactly, making sure to check the torque on the sender unit seal four times before installing the tank back in the truck because I didn't want to deal with any leaks, so I really hope it's not that seal. I also filled the tank up to the brim right after install and crawled all around it a day or so later and noticed no dampness or leaks. Needless to say, I'm not looking forward to dropping the tank again and then potentially waiting on parts if something is defective. I'm waiting on a call back from Titan to get their advice.
Below are a couple pics of the weepage. Obviously not a huge leak, but something I want to get taken care of ASAP.
2007, 4.0L, Explorer, 113,000 mi. Week ago noticed coolant expansion tank empty while hot and cold. Looked inside ex. tank and looked like it had not seen any action in a while. Looked inside radiator and coolant level was about 1 inch to 1.5 inches below bottom of rad. cap would be...approx. level with rad. seam, where black plastic top of rad. attaches to metal portion of rad. I filled expan. tank to "cold fill" line. Kept an eye on it while doing light, around town driving. The expan. tank level (cold-fill) didn't change.
Friday, my wife returned from work (30 mi., interstate drive). After being parked for 45 mins, went out to find fluid puddle at very front of car. Expansion tank was empty. Looked in radiator, and it was about one inch to inch and a half below bottom of rad cap...about level with rad seam, where the black plastic top is attached to metal. I topped off the rad. this time, along with filling expan. tank to cold-fill line. Turn car on, and after warming up coolant starting coming out from what appeared to be the seam at the top of the rad., where the black plastic portion meets the metal part of the rad.
I have just noticed a small wet 'green' looking patch on my carpet in the passenger footwell by the centre console.
Having taken the trim off from under the glove box and the trim on the console there're are some green stains coming down the side of what I believe is the heater matrix.
It would appear to originate near where the two pipes go into the unit. Are there any '0'rings on these pipes and could they be the source of the problem?