Coming home from vacation, I noticed a cyclical vibration in my '96 Volvo 960. The cycle shortens with increased speed, and specifically at 85 mph it would swell to a peak and then smooth out to disappear over ten seconds. It's not real noticeable, steering wheel slightly shakes and you can feel it in your feet. At 80 mph it was about a 15 second cycle.
View 5 RepliesI have a 2011 stock GTI with DSG. 7,000 miles. I just noticed the car has a resonance / vibration / cyclical pulsing / cyclical drone at EXACTLY 65MPH and again at 75MPH. It feels like the pavement has rumble strips every 100 feet or so. I feel it in the floorpan and slightly thru the pedals. You can also hear it- mid-pitched- like a higher male voice tone. It pulses about every second or slightly less for about a half second. It is slightly faster at 75MPH than 65 MPH.
There is NO shimmy in the steering wheel. It is rock solid stable.
I can't place if it is coming from the front, rear, left or right.
Happens in every gear- regardless of RPM.
Happens the same turning left vs. right.
Happens with and without AC on.
Happens with and without the brakes on and/or parking brake on.
I rotated tires front to back with no difference.
Of course, I spend most of my driving time at these speeds and it is making me CRAZY.
BAD WHEEL BEARING??
Okay so I changed my rear brakes, disc and pads on March 18th. The change went okay. Now I'm getting a burning smell from the front pad, specifically the passenger side.
View 1 RepliesSo I've had a low rubbing sound specifically when I'm turning or banking right. I don't want to put much more money into this mk4 because I'm planning on getting a new car in the next 12 months. How do I know which bearing needs replacing?
View 2 RepliesI have an automatic 1994 Nissan Bluebird which I think is equivalent to the Nissan Altima in the US.
My car seems to jerk whilst driving, not specifically under load. Sometimes when I'm in park with my foot on the brake, it feels like its very subtly jerking on the spot. It is a sporadic condition, sometimes my car won't jerk at all (or very few times) on the way to work, and other days it will jerk a lot. On the whole it seems to be getting worse though. When switching between gears when stopped it changes quite roughly (but not violently). Turning on the AC makes the condition worse. It has stalled once in reverse, and sometimes feels like it will stall again when I'm slowing down.
When it does jerk I can hear a noise that sounds faintly like a can of coke being opened (quick sharp pressure release), and it seems like something (possibly a belt) is losing traction/slipping and quickly regaining its grip. My first suspicion was the drive belt or one of the other belts slipping or something like that. Other possibilities I suspect are, from looking through the Hayne's manual:
-Something to do with the transmission (I checked the transmission fluid and it seems fine, very light brown but mostly transparent)
-Fuel filter clogged or fuel line problems (1.5 years ago the car wouldn't start, and a mechanic had to manually inject fuel through the injection nozzles. The fuel was near empty however)
-Spark plugs gap wrong or damaged
-Distributor components damaged (the distributor and alternator were changed last year and swapped in with 2nd hand parts, also the mechanic was very shifty and I think he hacked it into my car without too much care for good wiring, fittings, etc).
Also, I took the car to a mechanic last week and he thought it was the spark plugs, but I think the problem may be more serious than that. He also wanted to flush the transmission fluid but I think I will give this a miss since I checked the fluid and it seems fine, plus I heard flushing the fluid in an old car may have negative effects.
My wife's car is a 2010 Camry XLE, 4 cyl/AT,which we bought new and like very much. It gets stellar fuel economy at highway speeds (35 MPG is not unusual if terrain is flat).
It has 52K miles (all the kids live at least 400 miles away...) and I've been bugged by a "whump whump whump" noise from the right rear for about 5K miles. I thought it was an alignment/tire issue (tires have 25K miles, OEM crap tires wore out w/ 26K miles). So.... I had it aligned, though it wasn't terribly out of spec. I had the tires rotated (to see if the noise would move to a different corner of the car to id or eliminate a tire problem) and I'm still getting a cyclical noise from the rear right.
At low speeds it's very noticeable and gets lost in the road noise at higher speeds.
I had an identical problem with a Maxima several years ago and hub/bearing assembly fixed it. Is there something I'm missing? Or, is the consensus a wheel bearing/hub assembly.
I have noticed a very mild cyclical humming noise at exactly 70 mph. Initially I thought it was the original Bridgestones but it continued after I had a new set of Michelin PSS mounted. The noise can only be heard if the car is on a smooth road and the radio and AC are off. I was wondering if it may be a wheel bearing or issue with the differential. Not sure. Its not a big deal but would like to get to the bottom of it if possible.
View 13 RepliesI have a new 2010 Prius so am getting used to a different driving experience. One thing I have noticed is that between 55-65 miles per hour I hear a cyclical engine noise every one to two seconds. It is a hum followed by another hum. The noise is not constant but has a one or two second delay between hums. But this cycle is constant between these two speeds. Is this a normal engine sound? If so, why do I notice it only between about 55-65 miles per hour? A technician at a Toyota dealership told me that the 2010 Prius has 26 onboard computers to detect any problems. He said that if there was an issue a red triangle would appear on the display to alert me to any type of problem. I am about to make a 3,000 mile round trip in the Prius and need to know if this cyclical engine noise is cause for concern or just a normal part of the electric/gas engines operation.
View 4 RepliesWe've got a 2011 Santa Fe V6 that's putting out a low pitch cyclical whine at speeds between 5 and 15 mph. It could be making the sound at higher speeds but if it is the engine/wind noise drown it out.
If you're coasting or braking and drop below 5-7 mph, the noise cuts out completely and abruptly. Makes noise regardless of A/C running or off. Sounds like a motor turning on and off. Never makes noise while parked and revved, only while moving at low speeds (stop and go traffic, driving through parking lots, etc) - and is just loud enough to drive us crazy wondering what it is!
Dealer service center checked it out for 3 days - 4 different techs drove it, all heard the noise, but none knew where it was coming from. When you're driving, it seems to be coming from the passenger side of the engine.
On a side note, we first started hearing this noise after we got it back from dealer service, where they replaced the TPS and A/C compressor. I'm wondering if it could be from something they had to move to access the compressor?
I noticed a cyclical vibration in my '96 Volvo 960. The cycle shortens with increased speed, and specifically at 85 mph it would swell to a peak and then smooth out to disappear over ten seconds. It's not real noticeable, steering wheel slightly shakes and you can feel it in your feet. At 80 mph it was about a 15 second cycle. Any thoughts?
View 2 RepliesI have a vibration that comes and goes at a regular interval. Starts at about 60+ MPH on up. Most apparent between 70 & 75 MPH. The steering wheel will visibly vibrate for about 3 seconds and become completely smooth for 1 to 2 seconds. This vibration interval repeats over and over, in Drive or Neutral. I have replaced both outer tie rod ends, driver side wheel bearing, L & R stabilizer bars, rotors, pads and calipers. Passenger side motor mount which was visibly broken, others all ok. Finally, I just replaced both axle shafts with brand new ones. Front tires are in balance and round! At lower speeds, 60 and below it is smooth as silk. Bumps sound good, no rattle noises or loose sounds. No pulling left or right.
View 2 RepliesI own a 1992 Volvo 740 wagon, non-turbo. Super solid car up until a month ago when it developed a grinding sound and vibration when slowing down from 15-0 mph. There is no noise or pulsating at any other speed when I apply the brakes. This happens with tranny in N or D. I replaced the front rotors and pads about a month before this started happening.
I suspected the rear brakes so I also replaced the rotors and pads but I was still getting that grinding/ vibration. The next thing was to replace the hub/bearing assembly, I only did the drivers side because I banged it up pretty bad when replacing the rotors. This also had no effect on the grinding. I also noticed that when driving at moderate to fast speed I hear a humming noise, almost like big truck tires make. This is especially noticeable when letting off the gas and coasting. Could this be a tranny issue?
1999 Volvo XC AWD. There is a vibration beginning around 65 mph and continuing on up. Most pronounced at about 70 mph. It feels like when running over the little bumps in the highway designed to let you know you are straying too far off the road, but not as strong. Also no accompanying sound. I have take it to my favorite garage and they diagnosed it as an inner front CV joint. I replaced that as well as left/right control arms (they were worn) and replaced the drive shaft (also needed). The vibration continues and we are all stymied at this point. I also tried switching tires from this car with another Volvo. That did not work, so I have ruled out a bad tire/rim.
View 4 RepliesI've checked the wheel bearings, lug nuts and wheel balance. Sometimes the car will shimmy or vibrate not in the steering wheel and not all the time. It will vibrate for a day or two, then nothing, then vibrate again. It was not vibrating today, then I took some curves hard at 35 mph or so and it started a medium level vibration. This vibration started a day or two after the ABS, traction control, and check engine lights came on while nearly completing a 10 hour drive. I have described this to a number of mechanics and the fact that the vibration goes away has them stumped.
View 8 Replies"I have a 2001 XC70 WAGON and is making big noise while moving, bigger the speed bigger the noise, engine in idle and in N (while in speed) the same. Could this be because of tires?
View 2 RepliesWhat are the correct timing marks and positions for a Volvo 940 Turbo? I especially need the position of the crankshaft pulley. I have read the timing mark is on the cover, but unfortunately mine has dry rotted and crumbled away.
View 1 RepliesI am experiencing a slight rumble-strip-like vibration/noise when veering to the right. There is no noticeable vibration when driving straight or to the right - sounds like it's coming from the front. I thought it was my tires but had them rotated with same symptoms/ I first noticed this shortly after I had them rotated in July. So it's probably front suspension.
View 3 RepliesI've got a 2005 Nissan Frontier that has a roar and vibration that keeps getting worse over time. It happens as long as the car is rolling, but is the loudest at around 35 and 65 mph. From the driver seat is does sound like it's coming from the front passenger side. A few months ago I was driving across a curvy road and when I got home I could smell hot brakes. I checked, and the front passenger side caliper was stuck. I rebuilt the caliper, and that seemed to free up the wheel, but didn't fix the roar. I drove a couple more weeks and found the caliper stuck again. So this time I replaced it. The wheel has been fine since, but the roar is still present. After a while I figured it was a bad wheel bearing and replaced that too. But, that didn't work. I've also taken it to a shop and had them check the alignment, to which they said it was fine. I'm still racking my brain trying to figure this out.
View 5 RepliesPut a hole in my oil pan and finally got the bolts off but power steering lines in way to finish removal. I was to.d by a volvo mechanic to lift engine a bit and it will clear way for removal but not sure how to do this.
View 3 RepliesI have a 99 S70 and the ABS kicks in at in appropriate times, and stays stuck on (i.e. the pedal vibrates every time I touch the pedal and I can hear a loud buzzing sound even if I am not applying the brakes). After a while, the noise stops, but the ABS and TRACS lights come on. The first time this happened my mechanic replaced the ABS module and the problem went away for a while. The problem has resurfaced and each time "fixes" the problem for free, but it keeps happening. A) What is the root of the problem? B) Can I fix this myself every time it happens in the future?
View 1 RepliesLooking at getting a new car this fall and am torn between the Volvo XC60 and Acura MDX (2013s).
I've test drove both a couple times. Both drive well, goods and bads about both obviously, just wanted to get some opinions.
I think the Volvo is faster, more luxurious, more destintive looks. Only downside is the tech is a bit cumbersome.
The Acura has a great track record, handles so good for a bigger vehicle.
Plastic wood panelling is too much and the 1995 display font in the center stack is dated.