Volvo - 960 :: 1996 - Gas Fumes In The Cabin
May 28, 2013
I have a 1996 Volvo 960 station wagon which I love dearly. It's been a wonderful car, however something new has occurred that has me quite concerned. Whenever I turn on the heater, I smell gas fumes. This doesn't occur when the A/C is working or when I turn the temperature dial beyond the numbers to the red mark. I understand this is a different heat source than the regular heater. When I took my car in to the dealer for its 150,000 miles checkup I told them about this problem. They experienced it, but couldn't find the source of the challenge. They want me to bring it in again and keep it overnight so they have a lot of time to decipher the source of the problem.
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Well I started smelling Gas fumes in the cabin of my 11 GLS. The smell was intermittent for about a month now. Then last weekend it started getting bad. I found it only smelled when pulling fresh air through the HVAC, so it had to be under the hood. Pulled the engine cover to find the foam backing was soaked with gas. Started the car and could see the Hard fuel line dripping.
I saw from other post on the forum that this tube has one time use fitting on both ends and that a special tool is needed to torque the fittings. Dropped it off at the dealer yesterday and they are replacing the line today.
I tell you all this because the Dealer said that their records show my car had the short block replaced at 24000 miles. When replaced they probably didn't torque the line correctly causing it to leak.
The question I have is, Should I be more or less worried about the bottom end of this engine now that I know it has been replaced? The car has 44000 miles on it now.
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My mom has a 2000 Passat 1.8T Sedan. For the last six months the car has the distinct smell of engine fumes in the cabin. The smell becomes more prevalent whenever the fan is running (A/C or not). She has constantly been back and forth to the dealer but to no avail. The smell is there are idle or just driving around and requires a window to be opened for fear of passing out.
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I am getting fumes in my 1990 4Runner SR5 6 cyl. I believe them to be exhaust or oil burning, not fuel. The condition does NOT exist when the windows are closed or when the fresh air vent is open or closed (recirculate).The fumes exist in the cab only when I open a window (driver side), and is mitigated some when I open the fresh air vent. This may mean that the leak is not coming through the ventilation system. What could be causing this?My mechanic says it is worn valve cover gaskets, dripping oil onto exhaust system and finding its way into the cab, it does leak oil. This may be true, but how are the fumes getting into the cabin the first place? The fumes came on suddenly, after a rear window repair at the shop - unrelated?The vehicle has been inspected by a muffler shop, no issues with the exhaust or manifold system.The fumes are inscrutable, not strong enough to easily detect, but persistent exposure gives me a headache and dizzy feeling, and then I get polluted enough, that I cannot really smell it anymore, hard to trouble shoot.Interior smells of exhaust, even when parked.?
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Our prius is 13 yrs old and the fan of the heat/ac broke. We had it replaced at the dealer and also had them replace the cabin airfilter. Since then, whenever we use the fan (heat or AC), we've been getting fumes in the car, a gas smell (even when there are no cars in front of us, so it's not from other cars). We brought it back to the dealer twice and they have not fixed it. They found a hole in the exhaust system and replaced the muffler etc. My questions:
1) Is there a way to measure the air quality in the cabin and find out what fumes are coming in and how dangerous they are?
2) What could it be and how can we finally get it fixed.
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I have been getting exhaust in my car cabin since last fall. It is worst when I first start up the engine. Once I get driving, it's not so bad. Switching off the heat or recirculating the air does nothing to change things. I used a CO detector in the cabin and the alarm didn't go off, but it still worries me that I might be breathing in carbon monoxide. And none of the shops have been able to diagnose it, let alone fix it. The first shop installed a new 'flex pipe'. The dealer thinks it's coming from a gasket near the flex pipe. The exhaust manifold is not cracked. A muffler shop said there was no leak. Is it possible that exhaust is somehow getting mixed into the air via a faulty valve or vent?
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After I start the car, warm up a bit then drive, there are exhaust fumes that get into the cabin as you can smell them.
It's happening more often now. I have spoken to my Phaeton tech who said that the car has a sensor that goes off and shuts down external air if it notices exhaust uses getting in.
I have been hearing a little bit of road noise on the driver side so I'm thinking some fumes are coming in from the door seal (although it looks fine).
Sometimes it's bad enough that you have to open the windows or you will feel sick. It passes within 5 minutes or so and the car is fine after that. It only happens right after ignition for a few minutes.
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About two years ago, I noticed the smell of exhaust fumes in the cabin of my 2000 Honda Civic any time the vents were set to pull air from outside the cabin. Switching the vents to recirculate would prevent the fumes. Looking under the hood, I found the exhaust manifold was cracked, so I replaced it along with the catalyic converter (actually one piece in this model) and two O2 sensors. Since the replacement, the problem with exhaust fumes remains. I have asked my mechanic to look at this a couple of times, and he could not find the cause. What to try next to diagnose the problem. We use the car frequently, and just have to leave the vents set on recirculate. This becomes an issue on rainy, humid days when recirculate causes the windows to fog.
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I have a 2010 with 5k miles - bought <4 mos.
Last week, I started noticing a petroleum smell in the cabin. I've also had trouble with the inside windshield. When I tried it wipe it, it just smeared. Finally, I used some cleanser and it's clear. It took several applications to work.
I read in the Gen II forums about a loose oil filter cap. I checked mine today. I was able to turn it about 1/2 inch. Now, I'm getting headaches after I drive for more than 15 minutes or so. I've tried switching the circulation but I can't tell which way is better.
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I have been having an issue with exhaust fumes in my 13 GT (16,000 miles on it). I am positive its from the exhaust. Its definitely the "rotten egg" smell, not raw gasoline. I don't hear any leaks though.
It only happens when going up a hill when the engine is under more load than usual or under heavy acceleration. I am going to call the dealer about it and have them look at it.
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Newly acquired 2002 Accord.
At idle and while at a stop, the cabin receives a heavy dose of exhaust fumes (nope, not from the auto in front of me - I'm often alone at stop lights/signs)... what is the most likely culprit?
This did not seem to occur until AFTER I had the timing belt (package) replaced...coincidence
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I have a 2000 Ford Focus ZTS with about 135,000 miles on it with a fume problem. Once it's warm, I'm noticing what smells like exhaust fumes in the cabin when stopped or at low speed (not at highway speed.) It runs perfectly otherwise. I took it in a few months ago (before I noticed the correlation with engine temp), and the mechanic could not replicate the problem, and he said there was no exhaust leak, I now suspect this is because he only tested it cold.
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How does one change the cabin air filter on a Mazda Millenia 1996?
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I have a 1996 Ford Aerostar 3L. The Air Vents in the cabin are not flowing any air, whether on cold/hot/vent/defrost etc. I can hear it click on but no air flow. I used to have the same problems as some previous posts where the air would only flow in the dash or in the floor but now no air at all. Fuses are all good.
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My 02' Volvo s80 has been malfunctioning recently and I am not entirely sure what it could be. Today I was driving it slowly and it just all the sudden lost power and turned off, I was able to start it back up about 30 seconds later then parked it and restarted it again after a few minutes. Seems to drive ok afterwards. I've been smelling gasoline in the cabin recently. And it has run out of gasoline at least three times in a the past few months. I am suspecting a fuel filter. I checked the fuse and relay which turned out to be fine. Then I put my ear near the gas tank area as someone turned the car on and off. I could hear a flowing type sound, so the fuel pump sounds like it's operating correctly. Could it be a fuel filter causing the random shut offs? I read that when a car runs out of gasoline the deposits and gunk at the bottom of the tank are forced out which could clog the fuel filter. Maybe the reason for the smell of gasoline too? My instrument cluster has been on the fritz so I've been calculating the gas on a notebook. However recently the gas seems to be fluctuating the amount it takes. Sometimes it will take a lot of gasoline and other times it will spill out.
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I have a black, 1996 Volvo V90 that in the past month has begun acting up in an unsettling way.My car has begun to do this weird lurching thing when I have my foot on the brake. It sounds as if I am revving the engine, or as if the engine is trying to turn over. It is nearly always when my foot is on the brake pad, and the car will make the revving sound and try to lurch forwards- as if my foot was not firmly on the brake. When it first happened I even looked at my foot placement on the brake pad to make sure I wasn't accidentally pressing the gas with my shoe. It usually happens after it has been sitting in the unshaded parking lot at my summer internship, within the first 20 minutes of starting the car, and usually when my foot is on the brake (because I am slowing or stopped at a light) but it has happened a few times when I have begun to accelerate from a slow speed or stop as well. Recently, it did this while I was at a stoplight and it completely shut the engine off. It did this twice in that same drive home, but has not done it again in the past week (while it has kept doing the lurching thing and with much more frequency). I have explained my problem to several people and two of them mentioned that it could be the idler, I will not be able to take it into a mechanic until a week from today as I am out of state and cannot find a good Volvo mechanic in my area.
In the meantime, is there any information you can give me as to what is causing this? Or any possible preventative measures I can take until next week when I take it in? This problem is stressing me out every time I get into my car.
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My 1996 Volvo 850 with 254K miles has what seems like random starting troubles. Some days it starts without any problems. Other days I am unable to get it started. The battery is fine. I had to tow it to my mechanic one night and he started the car the next morning without any problems! But it has become unreliable.
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I noticed a cyclical vibration in my '96 Volvo 960. The cycle shortens with increased speed, and specifically at 85 mph it would swell to a peak and then smooth out to disappear over ten seconds. It's not real noticeable, steering wheel slightly shakes and you can feel it in your feet. At 80 mph it was about a 15 second cycle. Any thoughts?
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I have a 1996 volvo 850 when ever its cold outside my engine doesnt wanna start. when it cranks it doesnt stay going it idles down then stalls. What to look for or why its doing this?
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I have a 850 volvo 96 glt with overheating issue. I have replaced everything but still overheating. It only does it when I have been driving for about 15 to 20 mins. It goes just above 3/4 hot but not in to the red before it drops back down to norm temp (half way) it goes up and drops back down during driving and when i stop and turn her off i notice the filler tank bubbling even when the temp sensor is at half way (norm temp). Then with her cold and the lid of the filler tank, I start the car an can see bubbles coming up for the first 5min of warm up?
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I changed the mass air flow sensor. And ordered a throttle position sensor I have check engine light with code p1505. This only started when I had the muffler pipe fixed and had a patch put on a leak now idle jumps up&down.
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