Volvo - 850 :: 1996 - Slow Battery Drain - CEL - Odometer Broken?
May 2, 2011
1 have a 1996 Volvo 850 GLT wagon with the following problems and issues. Should I pay to get the major issues fixed, or use the money towards another car? This is my second car, it gets driven on a once-a-week basis, and I would probably replace it with another 10-year younger Volvo wagon or similar. * Check Engine light with "incorrect ratio" code - my mechanic suggests replacing the speed sensor, flushing the transmission, and hoping for the best; will cost at least a couple hundred dollars. Web searches turn up PnP replacement might fix this.
slow battery drain - replaced the battery harness as per Volvo's instructions, but there is still a slow battery drain that kills the battery in a few days, which I cannot diagnose. If I want to use the car, I make sure the battery is charged the night before. Unknown cost to permanently fix - solar panel in the front window?
odometer broken - the odometer broke at 125 K, the car has approximately 130 K miles on it. Mechanic estimates fixing the odometer is $500. due for a new timing belt - Last timing belt change was at 52 K; mechanic estimates $800 after doing "everything they like to do at this time, like the water pump." various and sundry broken interior cosmetic panels Should I do the repairs and hope to get to 160 K miles, or put the money towards a new car?
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My 1996 Volvo 850 has a relatively new battery but every few weeks it will go completely dead. A typical situation is this: the car will start fine and we will go to a restaurant but when we come out the battery is so dead that the digital clock is off and the radio pre-sets are lost. The shop has done a lot of diagnostics and replaced the alternator but the problem persists. They have determined that the battery is fine and the current drain when the car is off is within normal specs. And, yes, they have disconnected the light in the glove box. They have done everything they can think of but because the problem is so intermittent it is proving impossible to track down.
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So I just got a 96 850 GLT sedan knowing it had some work to be done. Gas gauge, odo, and trip don't function. Its not yet on the road but next week when it is registered I'm hoping to have this fixed.
Now the gas gauge does go all the way down when car is off, but when started it barely gets off E. The low fuel light goes on only sometimes. The trip is stuck on 0 and the odo stuck as well. Without these 3 working no way of knowing fuel level.
Also the guy I bought it from said after he did the brakes the ABS and trac off lights came on. they did go off for like 5 mins on the ride home but came back on. I switched from economy to sport mode on the way(don't know if that is related). The service light comes on and off as it pleases. The thing needs new cv joints as well! I'm hoping this is all I find!
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I’ve been having an engine misfire issue for a number of months. The dealership first changed the plugs, ignition cable kit and wiring, and that fixed it for a while. Then it came back and dealership couldn’t figure it out. They tested the O2 sensor and drove it around for a week to no avail. So I kept driving and have noticed a few trends. First the car drives better in overdrive, or when the rpms are 3,000 or above. Second when the car stalls, if I am trying to restart it immediately I have to give it some gas. Third it doesn’t mind idling in park. And fourth I’ve been having a battery drain. To solve the battery drain I’ve been charging the battery every night, and that definitely works, but I only get about 20 miles before the misfire comes back, and sometimes the misfire is just there immediately regardless. So I just replaced my alternator, and that didn’t solve the issue either. So what else could be the issue? I'm kinda at a loss and driving the car on the highway when the misfire starts is not exactly safe.
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My battery drains to 8v volts when I turn the key to the on position, not starting the car just turning it to the on position. I have done the key off parasitic voltage draw and there is none. This only happens when I turn the to the on position or start the car. The battery will only stay charged from a full charge to 8v or till car shuts off for less than 5 minutes. This is a huge draw! Okay it has a new battery and a new alternator, and I took battery out and did an ohms check received 14 ohms between neg and pos cable with battery out. I was told that was fine or normal. So any clues on what would cause my battery to drain so quickly? When I hook up my DVM to the battery while car is running I get 1 volt or more drop per minute only while running.
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1995 Volvo 850 stationwagon has been dying when it sits for 3-5 days. At first I thought that it was due to the cold weather, so I was sure to drive it daily when it was snowing. But as it warmed up, my battery still drained after sitting for a couple days. Every time, I would call AAA and they would get it started no problem. I took it to a mechanic who did a basic "used car check" and didn't find anything with the starter, transmission, etc that would cause a battery drain.
My next step was to replace the battery, which I did a couple months ago. But alas, the battery has died once again. My thought is that it is due to an electrical issue? I have noticed that when driving, the speakers fade in and out based on whether I'm going uphill, or turning right or left . I thought that this was just a quirk but perhaps it's indicative of a greater electrical issue? I'm not sure what my next step should be?
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Just trying to get a list of possible reasons my car is acting funny. I may have one problem or more than one problem.
-The dashboard lights started going on and off intermittently while driving. I could feel the power steering was off but the engine never shut off. This happened first while I was running the A/C, but eventually started happening when the A/C was off. When the A/C was on, the car made a funny squeal sound then more of a grinding. The A/C stopped blowing cold air.
-The same thing would happen when driving through water/rain (the dashboard lights would come on and it felt like the car died but it didnt).
-The other night, the SRS light came on, cars electrical started shutting off. Car died. Jump started it, it ran for a couple miles, then died again. This happened the whole 12 mile trip home.
-Mechanic came over, said it was my battery. Replaced battery. Car died again 3 days later. I noticed the lights on the dashboard came on more while making a turn, but they came on while driving too, so idk if that is a good assumption.
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Having problems with a slow drain on batteries? My truck wouldn't start after sitting for 5 days.
After recharging and starting it up once, I pulled the key, and disconnected the battery harness and checked for current on all the red wires in the harness. Only one drew current. I found the small red wire on the drivers side initially draws 470mA for 1 minute, then draws 22mA. In my experience in mobile audio, 22mA can drain a battery over several days.
Has anyone out there checked their 'dark current' draw? I have chased it all over and checked all the aftermarket add-ons and it comes down to something in the factory dash.
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If I leave my truck sit for a couple of days, the batteries are noticeably weaker. It's fine overnight, but two nights and it's slow to crank. Three and it won't start without charging the batteries. I checked for a drain last night and found that it was drawing 1.2 amps.
That seems like a lot, no?
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What are the steps to fix a broken odometer on a 1995 Ranger? I assume it is probably the gears. The truck has 169 k.
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Whilst flushing the radiator the drain plug snapped in half and is now inside the actual radiator. It's not screwed on the threads but inside the valley. I got a replacement plug, but I'm a little worried about that piece blocking up the flow to the engine or even worse going into the engine. Will that piece cause any damage if left or do I have to try and get it out(mission impossible)?
It's a Nissan Skyline 1990 with the RB30E engine. The lower hose is on the opposite side to the plug.
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Have had my Excursion for a few weeks now. Took it to the dealer for some maintenance on the brakes. Had them do oil and fuel filters while it was there. Dealer calls to tell me that the water drain valve had broken off when they tried to drain water and the needed to replace the housing. Picked it up today and this is what they found when they pulled off that assembly...
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I broke my radiator drain plug got a replacement but how does the stock one come out? Is there a clip or something?
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I have a 2016 f350 diesel dually (my first diesel).I changed the oil in the truck myself back in April and learned a messy lesson of how much pressure is pushing on 13 quarts of oil. I would like to replace the oil drain plug with a Fumoto F106SX M14-1.5 Sx series drain valve. I have only one question for everyone, have any of you that replaced your drain plug with a drain valve had it snap off while driving? I do not off road, except for driving through a campground when towing a 5th wheel trailer.
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I have a 96 ford ranger 4cyl 5 spd. I've only had it for a month or so, but I've noticed on cold mornings my odometer won't work. The trip or the total mileage. I can hear the odometer cable clicking. Once the cab gets warmed up it'll start working. It's only happened twice, at about 50 degrees or lower, so I can only imagine what'll happen once winter kicks in. Where to go from here? I was thinking maybe it needs to be re-lubed or something...
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My new to me 96 4x2 4.0 automatic Explorer has a working speedometer, but the odometer, and trip meeter are not working. I used the search, but found nothing. What should I be looking for to fix this problem?
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I have a 1991 740 Wagon with ~153,000 miles. I say approximately, because the speedometer, the odometer, and cruise control stopped working. My mechanic says it is the sensor loctated on the differential, I believe he said.
2 questions: My local Volvo junkyard has gone out of business; where is a good place online to get used parts? and second, .is sensor difficult to replace? I can fix things that are easy.
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My odometer has quit working but sometimes will run a few miles. The truck has about 100,000 miles on it and the speedometer works fine.
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I bought the car a month ago and went to pick it up today and there was 3 inches of water in the left front and rear footwells. I drained the water from there but can still hear it sloshing around in the quarters. Probably the drain holes are clogged. Where are they and how do I get to them? Do the rocker moldings have to be removed?
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On my 1.8t jetta she is leaking coolant slowly. Just started when it got cold out. It is dripping down the oil pan right down the center. It is falling off the oil drain plug. Was reading that it could be the water pump leaking but then it wouldn't be in the center of the pan. Got it jacked up now so here are some pics.
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My speedometer is jumpy, odometer quit working at same time. Shifts kinda hard going into 2nd and 3rd gear. I am at wits end. I have replaced both speed sensors, checked all fuses, and also tore dash apart checking the worm gear in the cluster. I don't want to take to the ford dealer. The truck got 172,000 on it but been very well maintained. I just don't think its the transmission. Its got to be something easy.
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