Volvo - 850 :: 1995 - Sagging Rear Bumper
Sep 12, 2016
My daughters 95 Volvo 850 had a sagging rear bumper. I prchased new mounting brackets and removed the bumper. It turned out the brackets were for a 5 door, and her car is a 4 door. I returned to the dealership and was told that they can only get the left side bracket and that the right side bracket is no longer available. The brackets look nearly the same except the mounting holes are opposite. I went ahead and ordered two left side brackets. I am hoping to be able to drill holes in one of them to fit it on. The bumper is now off the car and the old brackets are rusted to nothing.
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I got a 2014 F250 SD w/ 6.7 diesel. Since if owned the truck the front bumper has slowly started to sag at both driver and passenger side. Dealer says there is no adjustments for it.
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I have a 1995 945SET the rear washer pump works but no water comes out of the nozzle, where do I find the rear washer nose and how do I get into it to repair or replace it?
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In my Driveway, many times I notice my GX in the rear is sagging. I measured it from the center of the wheel up . when it appears normal it is 21". When it is sagging it measures 18". So there is 3" difference.
What is causing this, I know some will say it maybe a airbag leak. I dont think thats the case and I MAYBE wrong. Because, when I park the car with with no sag at night and the height is 21" it stays like that in the morning.
I know there are lots of idea of doing a change over to regular struts. What is the best method out there?
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My Ex has a ProComp 6" lift that was installed in 2004 (it's an 03) and it seems that the rear springs are worn out and sagging. I'm assuming the lift used the stock springs and blocks. I haven't measured but I'd say the rear is 1" - 2"s lower in the back. Question is should I replace the springs with stock ones? Maybe get springs that'll give me some lift and remove the blocks? Airbag it?
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I know this has been discussed but I still don't understand. Hence my "dumb blonde" user name.
I just purchased a 2013 super duty f350 extended crew cab DRW.
I also purchased a 42 foot (box is 36) Goose neck Bison LQ horse trailer. Trailer weight is 12048 and tongue weight is 4468. Fully loaded I am about 18,500.
Truck pulls and stops great but it is obvious the rear suspension is sagging.
Now what? Do I need air bags? Timbren? Spring Coils? I have called several installers and they all say something different.
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How to remove/install a reflector on the right rear side of the 'lower' rear bumper? I don't see any screws. So, can I pop it out with a screwdriver? Or, is it attached from the inside?
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I had the two wiring harnesses replaced with used ones, by Volvo at Christmas time on my 1995 940 Turbo. Things were heavenly and reliable until a week ago. My wife phoned me to tell me she could not start the car. I went and tried. It would crank, but not catch. I tried holding the pedal to the floor, but no luck. I had it towed to Volvo, but on the Monday, it started and it did all week long.
I drove it Saturday morning on errands. It was fine. My son moved it out onto the street and I went to use it an hour later and it wouldn't start. After about five hours, I tried it and it started rough but with gas it normalized.
I've asked whoever uses it in the family to give it gas in Park, before moving to get everything working. As the car is only driven once or twice a week, now that winter is over, I haven't tested my theory.
I really like the car, but my wife and I have to have confidence that it will start when we need it to. We have always had the vehicle maintained. I have wondered if it has anything to do with fuel injectors, but readily admit to not knowing anything.
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My Volvo 85T sometimes stall while driving, but most of the time while sitting at a light or stopped. I had someone look at it and they replaced the battery. it kept stalling. I had others look at it and they can not figure it out. Finally last night on the way home it stalled while driving. I charged the battery and nothing. it makes no sound when I try to turn it over. it has oil, trans fluid, gas.
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I have a 95 850 Turbo that I've been having a low boost (5-6psi) issue since changing the PCV about a year ago. Prior to changing the PCV it would boost most of the white in the gauge (have since installed an actual gauge). I installed a basic AF gauge and it ALWAYS reads rich (i suppose its better then lean right). I've changed the MAF, EBC, plugs, front O2 and vacuum lines.
The OBD1 reads it as a bad MAF, but I doubt that's it, i know sometimes issues are shown as one thing when its something along that line. I've installed a manual boost controller and set it to 13psi (performance computer installed by previous owner so its ok) but the engine still feel s like its running out of "OOMPH". Did a smoke test and couldn't find any leaks in the vacuum system.
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95 850 died on the highway - now it cranks and won't start. I had it towed to a mechanic who later told me he didn't work on Volvos. He did however check for spark - good. Timing belt- good. I replaced fuel pump and relay - no go. One possible hint is the lights on the Sport/Econ switch no longer light up and the first light I saw when it died was the up arrow light on the dash. Last winter I cleaned and regreased the PNP switch. Would that have anything to do with it?.
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I thought my problem of non stop wiper motor was either relay or switch. I found a good working switch and that did not cure the problem. I have yet to find any relay that would control the power to this circuit. There has to be one ...right? If so, where might it be on this 1995 960 Wagon. All of the wiper features work except for "off". Speed controls work, rear works, washer works, etc.
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This car has 100,000 miles, regular checkups, smog checks, good maintenance. There is a gas-like smell in car as one begins driving, for past year which can be avoided by pressing the recycle air button. No check engine warning light goes on. mechanic will be checking for sensors adequacy and gasoline gauge (possible misread?)
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I have a very serious engine problem with my 1995 Volvo (150K). It has been burning oil for two years and given the recession I have been buying oil and continue filling it. I recently took it in to find out what it would take to make it right. I was informed that it needed at minimum to rework the head (valve job , etc) but given the miles (150K) fixing one part of the system might temporarily fix the problem but it will most likely cause oil to start blowing thru the rings. They recommended the total effort (If I do it I do agree with them is the best of course of action). However it is a 4.5K job and the blue book value of the car is less than 3K at this point. At this point I can not afford a recurring car payment for another year. Should I buy cases of oil and limp along (wife's solution) or take the plunge?
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While driving full speed (55 mph), car shuts off. First RPMS drop to 1 - 1.5 (like being in neutral) then car shuts off -- no sputter or a cough, no rattle or puff of smoke, just kaput! If I try to restart immediately (after coasting to the side of the road) it turns over but won't start. Wait 60 seconds and it starts and drives normally. Have had it looked at, checked distributor cap, plugs, ignition coil and applied dielectric grease in case moisture was wreaking havoc in that area, but cannot find the source of the problem. Probably coincidental but it may happen more often in hot, humid weather?
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my wagon runs fine, but when i start the engine it makes a weird sound (the same sound you might here when a UFO zips by in movies)... also, the check engine light comes on and stays on throughout the duration of my trip... what could be wrong?...
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This morning I drove the car for about 40 mins and everything was fine.
In the afternoon, I tried to start the car. Just found the ABS light was on and the gear was locked at the parking position. I couldn't push down the small button that releases the gear. Of course I was pressing the brake pad when I did this, but it seemed like the system did NOT know it, so it wouldn't allow me to change the gear. I tried several times but no luck.
At night, I tried again. This time the ABS light was off and the gear moved as normal.
I have the feeling that it's due to some sensor, but not sure. What shall I do to make sure this won't happen.
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I have a 1995 850. About a year ago, I suddenly had a loud grinding noise coming from my brakes. It only happened in hot weather and when the brakes seemed to be hot. Also, it only happened when I was coming to a final stop, like the last 10-20 feet. I took my car to my "trusted" mechanic. They diagnosed it as being my front pads and rotors, so they replaced them (they also felt the front vibrating.) NOW the brakes seemed okay after I got it back the second time (no loud grinding noise.)
When I got the car back, the weather was starting to cool since it was nearing winter. My winter weather is like 70's during the day, and during this time, there was no grinding. It's now starting to get hot again, and sure enough, that grinding noise is back, but not as bad as the first time a year ago. Again, it is only when the brakes heat up and I come to a final stop (the last 10-20 feet.) If I break lightly, it won't make that noise, and it takes me driving for about 15 minutes for the grinding noise to start (it sounds like metal on metal and loud.) Also, I don't feel the vibration like I did a year ago. I only drive the streets, and have not been on the freeway since I got the new brakes.
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I have my 1995 Volvo 940 Turbo that stalls in reverse and hesitates on take off. The following is a breakdown of what has been done so far:
1. Initial Issue from March to October is hard starts; it would take 15 minutes or more to start car; it would be longer sometimes in cold weather.
2. Car would have erratic idle after startup; car reaches operating temperature before movement; car would bog down in idle and die only in reverse; initial acceleration from takeoff is slow;
car runs fine once out of first gear from takeoff; car bogs down on braking with idle lowering; sometimes car stalls at braking; gas is sometimes tapped slightly to stop stalling.
3. Issue of hard start would be intermittent; it would be less prominent in hot weather and more prominent in cold weather.
4. Sometimes in rain or wet weather, car would stall and sometimes backfire; Distributor Cap is normally changed.
5. By October, a no-start condition occurs.
6. Car starts now, idle is not erratic; car would bog down in idle and die only in reverse; you barely tap gas to keep from dying in reverse; initial acceleration from takeoff is slow; car
putts a little; car runs fine once out of first gear from takeoff; exhaust flows strongly; takeoff slightly improves incrementally with continued operation; car bogs down on braking with idle
lowering; sometimes car stalls at braking; gas is sometimes tapped slightly to stop stalling.
7. During idle or operation, sometimes coolant will boil in reservoir; toggle fan brings temp down to normal in between fan cycles; toggle fan keeps coolant temp normal in really hot weather.
The following parts have been changed and are still prominently new:
-Ignition Coil
-Spark Plug Wires
-Spark Plugs
-Distributor Cap (Initially Sealed With Sealant, Condensation Issue When Raining Causes Stalling)
-Rotor Button
-Condensation Cap For Distributor Cap (No Need For Sealant Now)
-K&N Air Filter
-Turbo Intake Hose (Original Had Disentegration In Spots)
-Exhaust Manifold Gasket (With New Locking Nuts and Sealant On Manifold Side, Not Block Side)
-Power Stage (Ignition Module or Ignition Stage Amplifier)
-Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor
-Gauge Temperature Sensor
-Knock Sensor
-All Vacuum Hoses
-All Coolant Hoses (Including Oil Cooler Hoses)
-Fuel Pressure Regulator
-Oxygen Sensor
-Catalytic Converter (Honeycomb In Original Rattles, Discovered Gone When Removed)
-Exhaust Resonator/Central Muffler (Original Damaged By Honeycomb, Sounded Like Broken Glass, Baffles More Than Likely Clogged)
-Idle Air Control Valve
-Starter Solenoid (Starter Tested Good)
-Power Brake Booster (Original Replaced, Failed 2 Out Of Three Brake Pedal/Vacuum Tests)
-Battery
-Radio Suppression Relay
-Throttle Position Sensor
-Fuel Filter
-Timing Belt and Tensioner
-Crankshaft Position Sensor (Last In Chain, Resolved No-Start For Now)
The following are checkpoints, mods, and maintenance:
1. Modded Airbox for more airflow, no codes present from OBD before or after
2. Cleaned MAF Sensor with MAF Sensor Cleaner, no codes present from OBD before or after
3. Checked EGR Valve - Diaphram not broken, free movement, appears functioning
4. Had EGR Pipe Rewelded - Pipe broke from connection to throttle body, completely sealed and functional, Minimal Carbon Removed
5. No codes from EGR temp sensor before or after
6. Checked EGR Vacuum Controller through OBD - appears functional
7. Checked Fuel Pump - Repaired frayed hot wire, sealed, pump fully functioning
8. Checked Fuel Pump Relay - Functioning
9. Properly adjusted Idle Air Speed - Steady Between 700-800 RPM
10. Checked EGR Pipe to Exhaust Manifold - Minimal Carbon Removed
11. Cleaned Throttle Body with Throttle Body Cleaner - No Soot/Carbon exiting system
12. Created Toggle with Fuse in between connection, connected to slot in fuse box, cuts off with car, slight battery drain issue before and after installation
13. Checked oil in case - oil change still new, no milky appearance suggested head issues
14. Removed and cleaned breather box - no oil deposits clogging operation
15. Checked charcoal canister - stalling in reverse happens with and without it connected
16. Checked muffler during disassembly of exhaust system - no honeycomb/debris present during testing
17. Car is at Top Dead Center - Timing
18. Fuel Injectors tested fine with OBD and Pressure present at rail
The following parts have not been changed yet:
-Charcoal Box
-MAF Sensor (No Codes)
-EGR (No Codes)
-EGR Vac Controller (No Codes)
-Compressor (No A/C, issue with stalling is unrelated)
-Power Steering Pump (Slight squeaking on rotation, PB Blaster in bearing area confirms, issue with stalling unrelated)
Other Issues : Slight battery drain coming from somewhere in the car, have to remove negative from battery for now
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I have a 1995 volvo 850 t5. Basically, the engine is making a clicking sound. Immediately on start up, which continues when i drive. In saying that, I've been only doing 5 minute drives so perhaps its not running long enough to go away.
So today, i started it. Car starts ticking. The ticking is like 3 or 4 seconds apart between clicks, and the idle seems to change slightly each time it clicks.
I checked the oil and it was a little low. So i put 2 litres in, and then i ran the car (idling) to see if it would go away. Just for a few minutes. It did seem to go away, but then i gave it a little rev and it came back.
So in summary, clicks on start, idle and while driving. Idle changes slightly between clicks. And there is a few seconds between clicks.
Just checked it again. If i leave it idling the click stops but as soon as there are more revs, it comes back. And the noise is almost like the click of a switch (like when your kettle finishes boiling and the switch flicks off. Not the best comparison but similar).
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A mechanic reports a "hairline crack" in the exhaust manifold, and that things there (what things???) are all rusted and there might be problems removing manifold. Son's Internet research turns up lots of cases of Volvos with broken bolts from trying to remove rusted manifold. (Of course, you only hear about the bad ones.)
Son says he does not hear any noise (popping) and he does not smell any exhaust. Can we let it go? Is there a stickum repair we could try? (I was thinking of the high temperature cement I used on furnace flue metal duct, but I suspect it would not hold the pressure of the exhaust.)
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