Volvo - 850 :: 1995 - Burning Oil For Two Years - Replace Oil And Limp?


Mar 26, 2011

I have a very serious engine problem with my 1995 Volvo (150K). It has been burning oil for two years and given the recession I have been buying oil and continue filling it. I recently took it in to find out what it would take to make it right. I was informed that it needed at minimum to rework the head (valve job , etc) but given the miles (150K) fixing one part of the system might temporarily fix the problem but it will most likely cause oil to start blowing thru the rings. They recommended the total effort (If I do it I do agree with them is the best of course of action). However it is a 4.5K job and the blue book value of the car is less than 3K at this point. At this point I can not afford a recurring car payment for another year. Should I buy cases of oil and limp along (wife's solution) or take the plunge?

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Volvo - Xc70 :: Oil Is Vanishing - No Leak And No Indication Of Oil Burning

Last August, with about 76,000 miles on it, the oil light on my xc70 came on when I was making a U-turn. I took the car into the dealer and was told it was down almost 4 quarts. The “cause” was the breather box which was replaced for a substantial amount of money. About 5k miles later the same thing happened. Again I was down over 3 quarts but the breather box was fine. There is no leak and absolutely no indication that oil is burning (no smoke, smell, residue in the tailpipe).

The speculation was that that the oil was somehow vaporizing in a line between the pan and the block. I didn’t buy that.Now after three more visits; I have been bringing the car in every 1k for an oil change and consumption check (the dealer has absorbed this cost) they have determined it is losing about ½ quart every 1k miles. They have not identified why. All they say is that I can rebuild the engine (new rings and pistons). This is ridiculous! 85k on the car and it needs a new engine. This was a certified pre-owned Volvo with 11k when I bought it and all service has been done by the dealer.

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4Runner/GX470 :: 1995 / When To Replace Timing Belt

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Volvo - 940 :: 1992 - Burning Smell And Squeaking Sound / Lights Stay On While Driving

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I had the two wiring harnesses replaced with used ones, by Volvo at Christmas time on my 1995 940 Turbo. Things were heavenly and reliable until a week ago. My wife phoned me to tell me she could not start the car. I went and tried. It would crank, but not catch. I tried holding the pedal to the floor, but no luck. I had it towed to Volvo, but on the Monday, it started and it did all week long.

I drove it Saturday morning on errands. It was fine. My son moved it out onto the street and I went to use it an hour later and it wouldn't start. After about five hours, I tried it and it started rough but with gas it normalized.

I've asked whoever uses it in the family to give it gas in Park, before moving to get everything working. As the car is only driven once or twice a week, now that winter is over, I haven't tested my theory.

I really like the car, but my wife and I have to have confidence that it will start when we need it to. We have always had the vehicle maintained. I have wondered if it has anything to do with fuel injectors, but readily admit to not knowing anything.

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My daughters 95 Volvo 850 had a sagging rear bumper. I prchased new mounting brackets and removed the bumper. It turned out the brackets were for a 5 door, and her car is a 4 door. I returned to the dealership and was told that they can only get the left side bracket and that the right side bracket is no longer available. The brackets look nearly the same except the mounting holes are opposite. I went ahead and ordered two left side brackets. I am hoping to be able to drill holes in one of them to fit it on. The bumper is now off the car and the old brackets are rusted to nothing.

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Volvo - 850 :: 1995 - Low Boost / OBD1 Shows Bad MAF?

I have a 95 850 Turbo that I've been having a low boost (5-6psi) issue since changing the PCV about a year ago. Prior to changing the PCV it would boost most of the white in the gauge (have since installed an actual gauge). I installed a basic AF gauge and it ALWAYS reads rich (i suppose its better then lean right). I've changed the MAF, EBC, plugs, front O2 and vacuum lines.

The OBD1 reads it as a bad MAF, but I doubt that's it, i know sometimes issues are shown as one thing when its something along that line. I've installed a manual boost controller and set it to 13psi (performance computer installed by previous owner so its ok) but the engine still feel s like its running out of "OOMPH". Did a smoke test and couldn't find any leaks in the vacuum system.

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Volvo :: 1995 / 850 Died On Highway And Won't Start Only Cranks

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Volvo - 940 :: 1995 - While Driving At Full Speed Shuts Off?

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Volvo :: 1995 / 850 - When Start Engine It Makes A Weird Sound

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Volvo :: 1995 850 - ABS Light On And Gear Locked At Parking Position

This morning I drove the car for about 40 mins and everything was fine.

In the afternoon, I tried to start the car. Just found the ABS light was on and the gear was locked at the parking position. I couldn't push down the small button that releases the gear. Of course I was pressing the brake pad when I did this, but it seemed like the system did NOT know it, so it wouldn't allow me to change the gear. I tried several times but no luck.

At night, I tried again. This time the ABS light was off and the gear moved as normal.

I have the feeling that it's due to some sensor, but not sure. What shall I do to make sure this won't happen.

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Volvo :: 1995 850 - Brakes Heat Up With Loud Grinding Noise

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When I got the car back, the weather was starting to cool since it was nearing winter. My winter weather is like 70's during the day, and during this time, there was no grinding. It's now starting to get hot again, and sure enough, that grinding noise is back, but not as bad as the first time a year ago. Again, it is only when the brakes heat up and I come to a final stop (the last 10-20 feet.) If I break lightly, it won't make that noise, and it takes me driving for about 15 minutes for the grinding noise to start (it sounds like metal on metal and loud.) Also, I don't feel the vibration like I did a year ago. I only drive the streets, and have not been on the freeway since I got the new brakes.

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Volvo - 940 :: 1995 Turbo Stalls In Reverse / Hesitation On Takeoff

I have my 1995 Volvo 940 Turbo that stalls in reverse and hesitates on take off. The following is a breakdown of what has been done so far:

1. Initial Issue from March to October is hard starts; it would take 15 minutes or more to start car; it would be longer sometimes in cold weather.

2. Car would have erratic idle after startup; car reaches operating temperature before movement; car would bog down in idle and die only in reverse; initial acceleration from takeoff is slow;

car runs fine once out of first gear from takeoff; car bogs down on braking with idle lowering; sometimes car stalls at braking; gas is sometimes tapped slightly to stop stalling.

3. Issue of hard start would be intermittent; it would be less prominent in hot weather and more prominent in cold weather.

4. Sometimes in rain or wet weather, car would stall and sometimes backfire; Distributor Cap is normally changed.

5. By October, a no-start condition occurs.

6. Car starts now, idle is not erratic; car would bog down in idle and die only in reverse; you barely tap gas to keep from dying in reverse; initial acceleration from takeoff is slow; car

putts a little; car runs fine once out of first gear from takeoff; exhaust flows strongly; takeoff slightly improves incrementally with continued operation; car bogs down on braking with idle

lowering; sometimes car stalls at braking; gas is sometimes tapped slightly to stop stalling.

7. During idle or operation, sometimes coolant will boil in reservoir; toggle fan brings temp down to normal in between fan cycles; toggle fan keeps coolant temp normal in really hot weather.

The following parts have been changed and are still prominently new:

-Ignition Coil
-Spark Plug Wires
-Spark Plugs
-Distributor Cap (Initially Sealed With Sealant, Condensation Issue When Raining Causes Stalling)
-Rotor Button
-Condensation Cap For Distributor Cap (No Need For Sealant Now)
-K&N Air Filter
-Turbo Intake Hose (Original Had Disentegration In Spots)
-Exhaust Manifold Gasket (With New Locking Nuts and Sealant On Manifold Side, Not Block Side)
-Power Stage (Ignition Module or Ignition Stage Amplifier)
-Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor
-Gauge Temperature Sensor
-Knock Sensor
-All Vacuum Hoses
-All Coolant Hoses (Including Oil Cooler Hoses)
-Fuel Pressure Regulator
-Oxygen Sensor
-Catalytic Converter (Honeycomb In Original Rattles, Discovered Gone When Removed)
-Exhaust Resonator/Central Muffler (Original Damaged By Honeycomb, Sounded Like Broken Glass, Baffles More Than Likely Clogged)
-Idle Air Control Valve
-Starter Solenoid (Starter Tested Good)
-Power Brake Booster (Original Replaced, Failed 2 Out Of Three Brake Pedal/Vacuum Tests)
-Battery
-Radio Suppression Relay
-Throttle Position Sensor
-Fuel Filter
-Timing Belt and Tensioner
-Crankshaft Position Sensor (Last In Chain, Resolved No-Start For Now)

The following are checkpoints, mods, and maintenance:

1. Modded Airbox for more airflow, no codes present from OBD before or after

2. Cleaned MAF Sensor with MAF Sensor Cleaner, no codes present from OBD before or after

3. Checked EGR Valve - Diaphram not broken, free movement, appears functioning

4. Had EGR Pipe Rewelded - Pipe broke from connection to throttle body, completely sealed and functional, Minimal Carbon Removed

5. No codes from EGR temp sensor before or after

6. Checked EGR Vacuum Controller through OBD - appears functional

7. Checked Fuel Pump - Repaired frayed hot wire, sealed, pump fully functioning

8. Checked Fuel Pump Relay - Functioning

9. Properly adjusted Idle Air Speed - Steady Between 700-800 RPM

10. Checked EGR Pipe to Exhaust Manifold - Minimal Carbon Removed

11. Cleaned Throttle Body with Throttle Body Cleaner - No Soot/Carbon exiting system

12. Created Toggle with Fuse in between connection, connected to slot in fuse box, cuts off with car, slight battery drain issue before and after installation

13. Checked oil in case - oil change still new, no milky appearance suggested head issues

14. Removed and cleaned breather box - no oil deposits clogging operation

15. Checked charcoal canister - stalling in reverse happens with and without it connected

16. Checked muffler during disassembly of exhaust system - no honeycomb/debris present during testing

17. Car is at Top Dead Center - Timing

18. Fuel Injectors tested fine with OBD and Pressure present at rail

The following parts have not been changed yet:

-Charcoal Box
-MAF Sensor (No Codes)
-EGR (No Codes)
-EGR Vac Controller (No Codes)
-Compressor (No A/C, issue with stalling is unrelated)
-Power Steering Pump (Slight squeaking on rotation, PB Blaster in bearing area confirms, issue with stalling unrelated)

Other Issues : Slight battery drain coming from somewhere in the car, have to remove negative from battery for now

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