Why does my Volvo 850 (1994) continue to shut off? The fuel pump and filter have been changed as well as having the gas tank cleaned. Car runs good but occasionally shuts down while driving on highway and local driving.
View 1 RepliesVolvo 940 1994 engine shuts off while driving?
View 1 RepliesI have a 1994 Honda Civic LX. It has a new 4 month old radiator and the fluid level is good. When I do in city driving I have no real heat to speak of. But when I get on the highway the heat kicks back in.
View 5 RepliesI have a 2013 Golf R Apr stage 2+ with about 74k on the odo. I have been stage 2 for about 5k and was stage 1 for about 20k before going stage 2. Changed my plugs and coils at stage 2 as well. So was driving on the highway at about 60 just cruising when all of a sudden there was a minor hiccup in the car and then pushed the gas pedal and nothing, RPMs started falling and then car shut off, put the clutch in and coasted to the side of the road. Tried to restart and it would not.
I have power and car tries to start but won't catch and turn over. Towed it back to a buddies shop and let it sit overnight, still won't start. started poking around. Checked Hpfp and everything seems fine, cam follower and cam are good. Noticed that when I open my drivers door now I don't hear the other fuel pump prime like it usually does and after putting hpfp back on and opening drivers door a couple times we checked the Schrader valve on the hpfp and no fuel came out like it usually would. Have it narrowed down to most likely culprits; Faulty in tank fuel pump, faulty fuel pump control module, faulty fuel pump relay.
Btw just thought of this, no check engine light ever came on, also don't have a way to pull codes.
I was driving on the highway when everything on the car went dark-the wipers (it was raining) stopped-and I was left just coasting. The hazards worked. I managed to coast through the exit and off the access road which is where the car is now, the next morning.
Once again: Car running fine, with no problems when an instantaneous shutdown occurred.
The key fob's battery had gotten to the point that the Smart System wasn't working so I assumed that the fob battery had gone totally dead and wasn't communicating with the car while inserted in the fob slot. I replaced the fob battery and it activates the Smart System now.
The 12v battery was replaced less than 6 months ago. The headlights still work....I think that would only happen when the key was available normally and this might be related to the below description:
The car makes the warning sound when I open the driver door as if the fob is still in the ignition (it's the warning that the keys are about to be locked in the car) so it seems to not realize the key has been removed.
The suddenness of the shut down makes me think that it's a blown fuse or, a horrible thought, that the immobilization feature is activated.
So today I was driving down the highway and my engine shut off. No sputter or any thing I had just filled the tank. I tried to start it and it wouldn't start. It's been hitting a dead spot at around 3000 rpm like its not getting enough fuel or something. Right now I'm thinking it's an ipr valve but would like to know if what was the cause and how did you fix it...
View 10 RepliesYesterday, I was driving on the highway at a 65-70 miles per hour (basically pushing it for my '96 RAV4). Suddenly, the car turned off. The engine cut out and the battery and oil signal came on. It did not lurch as if I had popped the clutch, nevertheless, I went to restart it as I was going down the hill and it made it home for the next 40 miles.
View 1 RepliesRecently I had the dash lights, A/C blower, electric windows all shut down while driving. The car still drove ok, but nothing worked on the instrument panel, electric windows. After parking it overnight at home, all seemed fine except for a message saying the airbag needs servicing. What could cause this?
View 3 RepliesMy wife's 09 Sonata SE AUTO 4-cycl.. I drove it last weekend and discovered a strange noise that can be heard after driving for a while at normal local road speeds.
The sound is like a combination of a whine and something that sounds like radio static. It can be heard very easily with the radio off and stopped at a red light. However, this sound also exist while the car is in motion. It becomes more difficult to hear as the road noise increase.
When I shift from D to N while stopped or driving, the noise immediately goes away. When I shift back to D, it sometimes comes back.
The consistent pattern seems to be that the noise will occur after having driven for a while at a consistent speed of at least 30-40mph. If I drive around the neighborhood for a while at low speeds and then stop, the noise will not be there.
I have not made effort to hear it from the outside of the car.
My Gen 2 2006 Prius engine works continuously and does not shut down even when car is stopped and parked. It shuts down after pressing power button. Problem started after I changed oxygen sensor and then car was reset by computer, could these actions cause the problem? What kind of problem is that and how to fix it...
View 5 RepliesThe seat belt warning indicator is flashing continuously when I am driving with my seat belt fastened. When I pull outward, lengthening just the shoulder harness, the light stops flashing. Letting go of the shoulder strap starts the light flashing again. Is there a sensor near the floor where the shoulder strap take up roller winds and unwinds the strap?
View 7 RepliesI have Camry 2002 LE which has 110000 miles on it. After last winter in Pittsburgh, first time I drove it for 200 miles continuously and all of sudden the engine started making very loud sound after 2-3 hrs drive and I had to pull it off.
When you give more gas, the sound increases even further. It is very load and unbearable. I called AAA and mechanic advised something wrong with engine and I cannot drive it anymore so have to tow it.
The sound is coming from engine and it is very very load. I will take it to mechanic tomorrow but what would have gone wrong. Is it the end of my car life?
Error codes -
P0674 - Glow Plug N0. 4 Circuit Malfunction
P0475 - Exhaust Backpressure Control Valve Malfunction
P0381 - Glow Plug Indicator Circuit Malfunction
how to fix?
I get these beeps continuously for the first ten minutes of driving.
I am currently having an issue with my 1994 volvo 850 where the key wont turn anymore?
View 2 RepliesI have a problem with my 1994 Volvo 940 GL. When I turn on the headlights (light knob pointing to the right) the headlights do not come on, the rear lights aren't on, the dashboard lighting turns off, etc... I don't know about the brake lights, i bet they work fine...
What's odd is that if i set the knob to the middle (pointing up), the rear lights come on, dashboard lighting works, and front-side lights come on as usual. In order to drive at night, I have to set the knob to the middle, and hold down the brights (which work fine).
There are two issues with my 1994 Volvo 940 (automatic). They may or may not be related, but that is why I'm asking.
1) When the engine is cold and at a stop sign the engine will rev up and down. After the engine warms up, the issue goes away.
2) Also when the engine is cold, when taking off from a stop the car doesn't seem to want to go.
You can mash the gas all the was down and it just kind of slowly gains speed. Eventually (5-10 seconds) it will act like normal and go and shift fine. I hope that is enough info and makes sense. I'm just trying to see what the problem could be and how to fix it.
I had to change the battery in 1994 Volvo 850, and now the radio won't play because it needs the "code" to reset it. However, the owner's manuals are long-gne, and I don't know what the code is. how to re-set the radio without the code?
View 1 RepliesI have a vibration that comes and goes at a regular interval. Starts at about 60+ MPH on up. Most apparent between 70 & 75 MPH. The steering wheel will visibly vibrate for about 3 seconds and become completely smooth for 1 to 2 seconds. This vibration interval repeats over and over, in Drive or Neutral. I have replaced both outer tie rod ends, driver side wheel bearing, L & R stabilizer bars, rotors, pads and calipers. Passenger side motor mount which was visibly broken, others all ok. Finally, I just replaced both axle shafts with brand new ones. Front tires are in balance and round! At lower speeds, 60 and below it is smooth as silk. Bumps sound good, no rattle noises or loose sounds. No pulling left or right.
View 2 RepliesMy 1994 850 turbo will crank but will not start. it started when the car was having trouble accelerating past 40 mph and felt like it was kicking back then it died on the freeway and now will not start. i ran the error codes and got these back, from A2 452, 455, 543, 544, 545, 552, 555 and from A7 122. I'm not sure what to do?
View 4 RepliesSo, my 94 Volvo 940 has about 315k miles on it and everything works great except during the intense heat of the summer. It drives fine for about an hour or two, but anything north of two hours with temps in the high 80s will cause the car to eventually stall - usually the engine just sounds like it's misfiring for a few seconds, then I lay on the gas to find that there's no acceleration and pull over where it will eventually shut down. I let it cool down for about 15 minutes, then it will start fine and drive for a little while before stalling again. It seems that the longer I let it cool down, the more time I get out of it.
I've tried replacing the fuel relay and noise suppression relay. I always just guessed it was the noise suppression relay because it is located right next to the engine, and I just thought the soldering would melt when it gets too hot, then come back together after cooling. But, maybe this is totally off. I also replaced the mass air flow sensor before, but it had slightly different symptoms, and those have not come back. My problem now only happens on longer drives in the summer.
I have a 1994 Pontiac Grand Am 2.3 L. I went 3 blocks yesterday to the highway and as i got ready to pull out onto the highway I lost power (like foot feed to the floor and going 20 mph). Drove it back home (3 blocks) and the engine is over heating within 3 blocks but temp gage isn't registering over heating (Incredibly hot under the car within 3 blocks). Engine was shaking badly and whatever it was blew a hole in my muffler? Put on all new spark plugs, oil change, oil filter... No more shaking in the motor but still no power when trying to go. Cut catalytic converter off and tried to drive out of the driveway, still no power on acceleration.
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