Volvo - 240 :: Stalls Out After Driving A Bit In Cold Weather
Jul 9, 2013
I have an 89 Volvo 244 DL series. I have had a complete tune-up, and oil change just recently. Battery works great, plenty of voltage, even had the fuel injection cleaned out.
Problem is the car starts right up when it is cold, however, after driving it and let it set for an hour the car starts up slower and immediately it stalls out. I do it again and the same thing happens and then I leave my foot on the pedal to keep it running at a higher idle for a bit and then place into a gear & it goes without any hesitation. If by chance I do not leave foot on pedal and put it in whatever gear it immediately stalls out. I have driven Volvo's for years, from the 70's to what I have currently. I never had encounter anything like this and have dealt with many other issues and this one has me baffled.
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My mechanic installed a battery about a year and I have to get my battery charged each time the weather gets cold or snowy. I have had the battery charged 2 times this month.I have had this same problem last year calling motor clubs to charge my battery. My car is snowed in and shovel is stuck in my trunk because it will not open because my car wont start. I do not even know if there is a warrantee on the battery ...it may be a used battery.
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She's got a 2013 RB GLS.
In very cold weather, we're talking around -15c (5f) or colder the car has serious trouble going into first gear or any gear.
The car starts fine, we even have let it warm up so the engine temp is fully warmed up.
As soon as we put the car into first and release the clutch, the car immediately stalls. It's also difficult to get into first gear, as it's locked out and takes repeated attempts to get into first, just to have it stall when the clutch is released.
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Lately, I've noticed that my car starts fine in cold weather. But, once I put the car into drive or reverse, it stalls. Also, once I start the car let my foot on gas for few min, and then put into drive or reverse, it drives fine.
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We have a 2009 S60 2.5T that has trouble starting in temps around 25 degrees and below. It skips/hesitates when cranking.
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Vehicle: 1995 960 wagon
Background: Exhibits intermittent no-start behavior in both warm and cold weather, wet and dry weather, having sat overnight, or only sitting a few minutes. Turns over fine, but won't start. Sunday, it started fine several times, went to Home Depot, wouldn't start. Called a friend to pick me up. When he was almost there, I tried it again and it started back fine. Been in shop a few times, they played around with a few electrical connections, battery cables and grounds to injectors. Also replaced fuel pump. I have not verified if it is a fuel or spark problem, I just bought a FI fuel pressure gauge last night.
Once started, it does fine. It never stalls or cuts out. That is why I am leaning toward a CPS (that's what jeep people call it.) Sometimes, under the slow cranking speed (relative to idle) the signal is too weak to be useful. However, during idle and normal operation, the flywheel is moving fast enough that the signal is much stronger (being a magnetic pickup). Thus, the reason it only happens during starting, not during running.
Here's my current working theory: Bad crank position sensor (is that Volvo people call it?)
This is the only part I can think of that would cause this. A fuel pump problem would probably show up during running. I think the pump also receives a signal from the cam sensor, so if that sensor were the problem, it would happen during running too, not just starting. It the cam sensor an optical sensor? Shouldn't cause it to not start, although it might cause a difficult start.
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My 2000 Volvo S70 just started stalling while driving: it completely dies while in motion. This has happened 4 times in the past week, both times (oddly) in the morning on my way home from the gym. Both times, it's happened we have had very damp weather, and it's the second start-up of the morning. It has happened at slow speeds, and it feels as though it is out of gas, but it is not.
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I've had this car for a little over a month, when I first bought the car it ran fine, until I drove it home. It stalled out and would not start up again, turned out I had low fuel pressure so I replaced the fuel pump. After this the car had been running fine up until a few days ago. It was stalling out and starting right up, now I am lucky if it will start up. I am still getting fuel pressure to the fuel rail. Would it be my injectors?
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Its not super cold but in Tampa ever since I installed my headers and its 60 or below i've gotten the VSC and ABS lights on in the dash after driving a little bit. Typically this is a cold morning type thing.
I reset the lights and it went away for a few days (it also got 30 degrees warmer) once it got down to 55 the lights came back on. Parked the car went in to work and when I drove home the lights were off (without re-setting the lights).
I know the codes can mean different things. The car is driving the same as always too- I have PPE headers, Ingen Intake, and a muffler delete.
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So I noticed that there is a type of whining sound coming from the ICE side whenever the temperature is below ~55F. This only happens from a cold start and only when I'm accelerating (pressing the gas pedal) and always go away after the engine warms up.
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Today, I experienced the coldest temperatures yet on my drive to work. At one point, I saw a '24F' shown as the outside temperature (although not unusual for April in Minnesota):
Expected: My gas mileage was down a bit. I was impressed it wasn't as bad as I would have expected from our 2005 Prius, though.
I should have expected: On the last 1/2 mile or so, when driving slow on the little bit of EV left while in the forced HV mode, I accidentally accelerated too much and forced on the ICE again (it had been previously on earlier in my 22 mile commute). This time, however, it was different because it didn't shut off immediately. I think the ICE had to do a second warm up. I'll have to watch that more closely next time (darn that cold weather)!
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I have a 1998 Volvo S90. I usually have to charge the a/c once a year to keep it cold. Today while driving the a/c went from cold to hot almost instantly. I turned it off, waited a minute and turned it back on. Cold just like normal. Two minutes later, hot air again. Turned it off again, waited a few minutes, turned it on, cold air but only for about 30 seconds. This was all done while driving. What might be causing this?
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Recently, my 1995 Bonneville SSE randomly will stall. No hesitating, no surging, no rough running, just DIE. This happens while driving, stopped at traffic light, warm / cold, Whenever the mood stikes it!
It always (so far) starts right back up. So far it has not tripped a code or caused any service lights to stay on. I've cleaned the battery posts and don't know what else to do.
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So, my 94 Volvo 940 has about 315k miles on it and everything works great except during the intense heat of the summer. It drives fine for about an hour or two, but anything north of two hours with temps in the high 80s will cause the car to eventually stall - usually the engine just sounds like it's misfiring for a few seconds, then I lay on the gas to find that there's no acceleration and pull over where it will eventually shut down. I let it cool down for about 15 minutes, then it will start fine and drive for a little while before stalling again. It seems that the longer I let it cool down, the more time I get out of it.
I've tried replacing the fuel relay and noise suppression relay. I always just guessed it was the noise suppression relay because it is located right next to the engine, and I just thought the soldering would melt when it gets too hot, then come back together after cooling. But, maybe this is totally off. I also replaced the mass air flow sensor before, but it had slightly different symptoms, and those have not come back. My problem now only happens on longer drives in the summer.
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My 1988 Volvo 240 DL often has trouble starting in the rain (I've usually managed to get it going, but it often takes several attempts). I have been told by a friend that he had the same problem with his '86 and replaced the distributor cap, solving the issue. My mechanic told me that he would need to replace the cap and wires. He said that replacing the cap alone won't solve the problem, and would just lead the cap to wear out faster. He told me this without looking at the car. Just want to know if he's right--do I need to replace the cap and wires? Is it possible that changing the cap alone will solve the problem? Could I change the cap and see if there's still a problem, or is it better to just do it all at once?
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I recently purchased a 1996 Ford Ranger with the 4 cyl. engine. The first 10 days I owned it it ran just fine. I then took a an hour drive to another city. After the first few stops there, as the temperature outside reached about 90, It started to sputter and idle very badly. After I got rolling it would would run fine. I decided to try to make it home. It ran fine at freeway speeds of about 70 mph. I had to stop once; it stalled out and would not start again. After waiting about ten minutes I tried again. It was still running rough, but I was able to get rolling and drove the rest of the way home without any problems until I was in town and had difficulty keeping it running at idle.
The next morning it ran fine again. A local mechanic changed the fuel filter, but the problem came back as soon as the temp neared 90 degrees. A mechanic friend who witnessed the problem said that it definitely sounded like a lack of fuel and not an electrical problem. Is there a way to troubleshoot without swapping parts? If the fuel pump is failing in warm weather, how is it possible that it runs fine at 70 mph, but not at idle? Engine temp gauge looks good. I did get one code after it died the first time (lean mixture, I think he said).
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This problem showed up this summer, different times under load: on hot days, going uphill, AC on. Also, always happens when the temp gauge is just above halfway. Even after a stall, I am able to limp home, and it improves the longer the car runs after the problem starts. First I replaced the fuel filter which was pretty dirty, the problem didn't improve, so had the shop run codes -- low ignition voltage. They replaced the coil, and that seemed to work for a while. Now, in109 degree heat, it's starting to hesitate again, but the engine light hasn't come on this time. I had to replace the radiator about 4 months back, when it was cooler, and don't know if it's somehow temp related. Also, haven't replaced the timing belt since I bought it with 90K (its has 119K now).
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When the outside air temp reaches above 70 degrees, my Blazer will die going down the road. It will not start for about five minutes, then starts up again. Also, I have took the overflow cap off, poured water in it, and it would start up fine. I don't know what is causing the problem, it runs great in fall/winter, but when it warms up, it starts doing this?
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I have had my '99 Ranger since 2002. Since it has started getting hot in Texas, the truck has decided to stall at horrible times. When driving on the interstate, there is no problem, but as soon as I get in town and have to let off the gas to turn or stop, the whole truck dies. Unless it sits for a long time, it will continue to die at every stop. It is harder to start each time. I have changed the fuel filter and added STP to the last tank of gas. Also, it is tough to start and keep running until it has warmed up on any day. I have to sit in the truck and keep the idle up so it won't die.
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I continue to have problems with my Chevy Beretta. The original problem was that -- after my neice's husband ran the car out of gas -- we had to replace the fuel filter. That was last spring. Afterward the car seemed to run fine until the weather got hot. Now it seems to stall generally in high heat and humidity.
I only paid $800 for the car, and my idea was to get everything fixed on it and drive it a while to get my money out of it. I don't want to go into debt for a car, and I don't want to buy another one (unless I have to). I travel a lot, but I don't need my car for work -- just for personal travel.
A local mechanic has changed the crankshaft position sensor and now the ignition module. I got the car out of the shop again yesterday, but the problem remains. I could barely drive it around the block this evening. The temperature is 73F, humidity is 84%, and dewpoint is 68.
Is this problem definitely weather related? What could be the cause? Vapor lock? An intermittent problem with the fuel pump, filters, or fuel injector? Is it possible to get this fixed for good?
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We have a problem with our 1992 240 wagon. When it rains the car starts first thing in the morning but then stalls after driving 2 miles. After letting it sit for a few min. and cranking the engine it starts and will run. If we let the car run for 10 min. before driving everything is good for the day unless the car is parked for a period of time. Then it start and we need let it idle before driving. We have had the Mass air flow sensor replaced twice and that solves the problem for a few months.
This past week the car has started to stall on a damp morning even with the sun shining. Then later in the day it runs rough at a stop or stalls.
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